MARIA’S ALL NIGHT TACO STAND
Originally Published the Week of June 16, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Way back in the day during my first years living down here, I had a favorite hang-out. I was pretty much living hand-to-mouth back then.
Truth-be-told, most folks didn’t know I was guiding fishermen all day, but at night, I’d crawl into the back of my old Dodge Caravan. It was usually parked in some quiet lot or sidestreet.
Back then, it was home. I’ve lived in worse conditions so it really wasn’t all that bad.
I’m not a big drinker nor did I have the dinero to hang out in bars at night. Not much to do there anyway.
Back then, most bars didn’t have TV’s to watch and the ones that did had obscure soccer games going non-stop.
Nope.
My favorite place was Tacos Maria.
I guess, it’s the Mexican version of the all-night diner. Minus the coffee and apple pie. But it had the best sizzling hot street tacos and salsas.
Like all the best taco stands, Maria’s didn’t even get started until it was dark. It wasn’t fancy by any means. Definitely not a place you would have found on Google or Trip Advisor which didn’t exist back then anyway almost 30 years ago.
But, this little box of ramshackle plywood with two open sides of counter-space; the corrugated roof; and string of haphazard white Christmas lights was the place to be.
As lights would peek out from non-descript cinder-block homes that never knew a building code, Maria and her two sons operated on an otherwise lonely dark street corner. Across the street a hazy yellow streetlight hummed from a tilting concrete pole.
If you had to ask about “Tacos Maria” you weren’t from the neighborhood. A combination of a generation of years and road dust had long-since eroded the name off the side-wall.
Everyone knew the place anyway.
Maria and her boys that worked with her, never posted hours. They were open when they were open. But, as far as anyone could remember, they were open 7 days a week all night and every night.
There was a wonderful welcoming glow about the place on that dark street and it wasn’t from the streetlight.
I would sometimes arrive early as twilight turned to dusk turned to night. Often, I helped set up the scuffed plastic white tables and chairs that a beer company once donated and forgot to take back or replace.
I’d help unload their battered mini-truck. Or I’d help ice-down the bottles of Coke, Fanta Orange, 7-up and Strawberry soda that would be re-loaded throughout the night as patrons helped themselves.
When night arrived, Maria would fire up the grill. A transistor radio served as the high-tech sound system
Scratchy banda music seamed to drift with the beckoning aromatic fingers of roasted carne-asada through the nearby streets drawing folks from their homes.
Showtime.
It was wonderful to sit there with a plate of sizzling meat wrapped in a warm home-made tortilla slathered with all the fixings and a healthy dollop of one of Maria’s assortment of fresh salsas.
I was often reminded of late-night burger places back home.
But, a neighborhood Mexican taqueria is different. Back in the U.S. people drifted in an out as they arrived, ordered, ate and then left.
Here Maria’s was a neighborhood hub and social center. I came to realize it was really a very important part of the community.
There was the nearby church.
There was the grammar school.
And there was Tacos Maria.
Like the TV show…everybody knows your name.
And you knew everyone right back.
In the early evening, families would arrive. Couples and older folks came later.
Kids played and laughed with each other in the dusty glow of the streetlight. Mom’s gossiped and dad’s watched kids and told their own stories and jokes. Even the neighborhood dogs seemed to know when to come out to romp and play.
Young couples giggled. Older couples sought out other older couples. The teens flirted and posed.
Young bucks brought their own beer. No problem.
The older solo uncles, aunties and grandparents were welcomed at anyone’s tables and made themselves at home.
I even remember there seemed to be a renegade chicken or two that ran around underfoot at times. Escapees from someone’s yard no doubt.
They would order off Maria’s handwritten menu written with a marker on a day-glo poster board. But, it probably wasn’t necessary.
Everyone knew the menu by heart and, as far as I know it never changed.
Tacos would be served on plastic plates slipped into a plastic sleeve. When someone was done, no dishwashing required.
Toss the old plastic. The plate was just cleverly placed in another sleeve ready for a new order.
Folks would get their order, roust around in the ice chest for a soda and find a chair, table or sit along the two open-counters chatting and laughing with each other. Maria could chop, cook, serve and hold court like the neighborhood mom she was.
Tell a joke; listen to a problem; dole out advice or wag an admonishing finger at you…that was Maria.
Second and third helpings no problem. Honor system. You kept track of what you ate and drank and paid at the end.
You would tell one of Maria’s boys how many tacos and Cokes you had. They’d tell you how much you owed. A coffee and a shoe box seemed to serve as the cash register.
Over time, I got to recognize and know many of the regulars and many became friends. In those early days, my Spanish was negligible. An obvious outsider in the midst.
Although I was often alone, no one sits alone forever at Tacos Maria. There weren’t enough tables anyway so you ended up sharing!
Through the grateful introductions by Maria and the boys to the rest of the neighbors, smiles and hellos became handshakes and conversations.
I was “El Hawaiiano.” (The Hawaiian).
Rafa who drove a truck and his young family often came. Rosario and Julio brought their new baby.
Mauricio and Celio would sometimes bring out a guitar and sing. Victor, Ramon and Alejandro would always argue baseball and soccer into the night. Misha and Fredo would seek me out and ask about the latest fishing. Chalo would pull up in his taxi cab between fares.
Tacos Maria and the neighborhood are long gone. I heard there’s a convenience store there now. They fixed all the light poles and there’s a sidewalk and a paved two-way street there.
But 30 years ago, so far from home at the time, it was nice to feel welcome and part of the neighborhood at Tacos Maria for a few hours.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
