
VAMOS A VERLO MATEO
Originally Published the Week of May 20, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
In all the years I’ve been writing down here, the stories I like telling the most are the ones about the regular folks. Most visitors never see them or need them or know about them.
But, often behind the scenes, they are very much a part of the landscape and fabric of the community and even tangentially part of the tourism machine that makes vacations much better .
So, I was taking a momentary break in the action from our fishing fleet and restaurant and just sitting for a few minutes out front at one of our restaurant tables. Just trying to clear my brain.
Y’know every now and then you just have to pull away from the phone, the computer screen and talking to people just to catch your breath. To clear your head before you go back in for another round!
So, there I am watching the cars go by along the La Paz waterfront back and forth. Up and down along the seashore Malecon boardwalk.
Cars and trucks. Taxis and vans. Scooters and motorcyles. Coming from somewhere and headed to somewhere else.
Thirty years ago when we first came here, the parade along the waterfront consisted of the usual commercial trucks and vans as well as the usual Mexican car…kinda long on mileage… sun-faded paint…dusty…bondo here and there for dings…or not.
An occasional cracked window. Maybe rust showing here and there. A mismatched spare tire being used like a regular tire.
Simple transportation. Just enough to come from somewhere and head somewhere else.
But now…whoa!!!
Mercedes…BMW’s…Jags…Humvees…Caddy’s. Of course still a number of the usual vehicles, but doggone it…a lot of luxury and late model rides as well. I mean A LOT!
Heck…Jill and I drive a 1991 Honda SRV with the faded silver paint and part of the roof lining starting to peel away.
The windshield wipers don’t work and the seats are down in the back to accommodate ice chests and fishing gear. Kinda smells a bit like fish too!
So, where are all of these cars coming from? With minimum wage about $8/day how do they afford these? Some of our employees drive better cars than us. Moreso, when gas is $6/gallon how do they keep the tanks filled?
Back in Texas, we pay $2.37 a gallon. I fill the Suburban for $40 It just cost me $70 to fill our little rattletrap Honda.
And then thinking where do they go to get these pretty cars fixed?
Many years ago, when our car broke down, we got Mateo. He was referred by one of our friends.
He said Mateo fixes all the taxi cars and vans.
Well, heck, if he can keep those guys on the road, it wouldn’t hurt to talk to him.
It’s been a great relationship.
Mateo is kinda tall. Actually really tall for a local and kinda lumbers around with a big pot belly and always in grease-stained clothes. Slicked hair and a thick black mustache over his ever-smiling grin. A wiping rag perpetually hangs from a back pocket.
No pretense of competence. After checking out something, he always looks up from under the hood and says “Vamos a verlo.” (Let’s check it out. We’ll see!) With a smile.
Over the years, our car has broken down on the beach, downtown, at the airport…it doesn’t matter. If I call he comes out personally with his son .
If they can’t get the car going, they’ll work on it right there or tow it to his shop.
“Vamos a verlo!”
At his shop, it’s not really a shop. It’s his garage. Like a garage attached to his house.
More like a big space covered with a corregated metal roof held up by posts. Space for 4 vehicles maybe.
There are cars parked all over inside, outside, on the street, on the driveway. Half the neighborhood has cars he’s working on.
There are several dogs sleeping under cars or underfoot always happy to see visitors. There’s laundry hanging off the back porch and there’s always some delicious smell coming out’ve the kitchen. Kids are running around.
Someone is always on the phone. Banda music comes from somewhere!
And there’s a soccer or baseball game on the TV in the garage. A little electric desk fan fights a losing battle against the heat.
There are parts and tires and grease and bits and pieces everywhere. Leaning on walls and hanging off hooks. Not sure if the garage floor has ever been scraped clean. Oh well. It’s a working man’s mechanic shop!
And if you go visit…expect company!
There are always few neighbors sitting on folded chairs. Taxi drivers chit-chatting and gossiping. Folks telling jokes.
Mateo’s voice coming from under some car laughing or turning a wrench under someone’s hood. Maybe a beer can balanced on a fender.
Actually a lot of beer cans all around. And everyone having a good time. It’s the social circle of the neighborhood.
Maybe even all the dogs don’t belong to him. I don’t know! Just neighborhood mutts come to visit and hang out as well!
Mateo is chill.
A lot of folks don’t have money but he keeps their cars and taxis running. He’ll find the part at the junk yard or jury-rig something. He’ll duct tape it if he has to. He will cannibalize someone else’s vehicle or one of his many cars to make things work.
But, he gets your vehicle back on the road.
Payment…sure…bring a case of beer for him and you get a big discount. A big pot of menudo? Tamales? Some fresh fish? Sure, he’ll change your oil or take the squeak outta your suspension.
Andale! Que bueno!
Often when he does take money, he apologetically hands over a handwritten note.
As you look it over he goes into a long explanation of the parts and labor etc. Blah…blah…blah and more blah!
You look up at him and realize he tuned the car. He changed the oil and filters. He changed a loose belt. He adjusted the breaks.
…for $40 dollars. And he’s apologizing for the cost!
Oh…and he cleaned your windows too.
$40 PLUS tip…and a case of ice cold Tecate.
“Vamos a verlo,” he smiles! And cracks open a pop top and takes a long sip and smiles again!
Real life in the colonia.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter-international.com. They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International
Website:
www.tailhunter-international.com
Mexico Office: Tailhunter International, 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
U.S. Mailing Address: Tailhunter International, 8030 La Mesa Blvd. #178, La Mesa CA 91942
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863
.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/
Tailhunter YouTube Video Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBLvdHL_p4-OAu3HfiVzW0g
“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”















