Originally Published the Week of Oct. 22, 2023 in Western Outdoor Publications
This is my favorite time of year in Baja. It’s not summer anymore. It’s not winter and it sorta feels like fall.
I call these the “tweener days.”
They take place “tween” the Labor Day celebrations and Thanksgiving. There’s no exact dates, but suddenly it’s like a switch has been thrown.
Or maybe it’s more like a dimmer. Sometimes it seems to happen overnight. Sometimes, you realize that after a few days, things have changed.
I think it hits sometime in October.
The shadows are longer as the sun rises and sets at a different angle. I don’t know what it is, but the colors of the desert and the earth, in general, seem to change with the sun.
The air is cooler. It’s breezier. Mornings can be brisk and I find myself reaching for a sweatshirt or my raggedy Pendleton.
The color of the water changes as well. It still retains much of its summer warmth, but there’s a marked difference. I think it’s just a shade or two darker blue.
Even the air is different. That oppressive humidity and heat of the summer and early fall have diminished tremendously.
If there had been some rain earlier, the vegetation across the hills, mountains and lowlands has exploded with life into a huge carpet of green.
It’s no wonder the air breathes, smells and even “tastes” fresher. It’s not as dusty or heavy.
Even the folks walking around are different.
It’s quieter and more tranquil. The hubbub and drone of people moving about is turned down a notch. The vibe is less hurried.
Kids are back in school. Mexican and tourist families alike. So fewer families are in evidence.
Most are focused ahead towards the holidays. Beaches are less crowded. The waterfronts are less boisterous. Getting seated at popular restaurants are easier.
For the airlines, it’s considered off-season. Fewer folks are in the air so there’s some great deals to be had between Labor Day and Thanksgiving.
Same for hotels as well. They need “heads-on-beds” and offer some excellent discounts.
For fishing, it’s different also. It can still be outstanding, especially with fewer fishermen out on the water and less boat traffic on the fishing grounds.
There’s a reason why so many international fishing tournaments take place during this time.
The only drawback I would see is that the waters can be a bit bumpier some days so you might want to keep an eye on the extended forecasts and pick your fishing days accordingly.
Or not! Just come fishing. Why not?
My point, get outside the box. Break away for a quick Mexico run. It’s a completely different experience.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 12, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
They say if you own a restaurant, it’s inevitable that your employees will steal from you. It’s a very accurate truism.
Having worked or managed 14 restaurants plus a catering business, there’s just no way to watch every single employee every single minute.
We’ve owned our own Tailhunter Restaurant here in La Paz now for 13 years on the waterfront. Employee theft is rampant. It’s blatant. It’s uncontrollable.
We’ve had workers who have been with us for years. Servers, dishwashers, manager, and cooks that we consider family. We trust them.
We provide benefits, vacations, bonuses, health care, personal loans for school and home. Many have never had these perks working for other employers.
If you have a problem, come to Jonathan and Jilly. Close the office door and we’ll figure something out!
Regretfully, some of our best people have been our saddest and biggest disappointments. And our worst thieves.
Everything from stealing tips to even stealing knives and forks.
We’ve caught managers on our security cameras walking out with cases of ribs or boxes of shrimp. We have caughtthem smiling into the camera.
Two of our employees climbed the roof to our upper floors. They stole cases of liquor. That was too easy.
Two hours later they came back. They stole several flat screen TV’s. Just carried them over the rooftops and down a ladder.
One employee broke into our office and stole the entire safe with the payroll! It was bolted to the floor! He was caught smiling into the security camera as well.
On a smaller scale, waiters will jimmy the orders and not give the cashier the full amount. They pocket the difference.
Packs of tortillas disappear or don’t match inventory. A case of beer disappears. What the heck happened to the fish fillets that were delivered yesterday? I know we didn’t sell them.
We recently caught one of our best employees. He’s a young man I’ll call Omar.
Omar came to us and we could see he had some potential. Never worked in a restaurant, but willing to learn. He started in the kitchen. Then became a server.
When we were short-handed one night, he stepped in to help our bartender during an evening rush. The kid liked it and he had talent.
Over the next few months, he developed into one of the best bartenders we had. Everyone loved his concoctions. He was great with the other employees. Omar was a real gem. A rare find. A favorite.
Then, we caught him red-handed on the security cam. He was in the upstairs kitchen helping himself to a pot of rice. Had a nice bowl of it.
Geeze…not him too!
We’ve tried all kinds of ways over the years to curb the theft. Short of firing someone, most don’t work. Stealing continues to a larger or lesser degree.
But darnit…employees are really hard to find these days. Good employees are even harder to find. Good employees that we really like are an even rarer commodity.
So we brought the kid into the office. Omar knew he was in trouble when we shut the door. Or worse.
I’ve always thought of him as “kid.” Anyone under 40 years-old working for us these days is a kid.
We wanted to hear his side of the story and why he was stealing rice. It looked like it wasn’t his first time the way he was easily spooning-up the rice in the video footage.
Why are you stealing food?
“I was really hungry…”
That hung in the air for a moment. The way he said it.
It wasn’t like, you or me getting “hungry” and having the “munchies.”
He started to tear-up. Eyes were watering .
I always thought he was in his mid-to-late 20’s. He was only 20 years old. For the first time, I was seeing him as a real kid.
He really WAS hungry. He had not eaten.
Turns out this was his first real job with us. First time he had been trusted with a position and responsibility.
Talking…listening to this kid really for the first time…
He told us he had been abandoned at an orphanage with his sister when he was 8 years old. Parents just left them.
He bounced around in and out.
Never got any real schooling.
Never really had a stable home situation. Lived with his sister for awhile. They would get kicked out or they had to move. She had her own issues of drugs.
He was never sure where he would be sleeping the next week. The next month. The next day.
But, he always made it to work.
And all his life, there had never been enough food. Not in the orphanage. Not living with others. Not living on his own.
Never enough food. At night, no food security. Not knowing where the next meal is coming from.
He was honestly hungry.
And for the first time, we’re seeing this kid differently.
These days with the shortage of employees we tend to grab anyone who can walk, talk, breathe and show up. We often don’t have time to really get to know many of them.
We can’t. I know we should and we do our best.
We are jamming full-speed. Many of them don’t last anyway these days.
They quit. They disappear. Bring in the next one.
Omar had been a welcome surprise.
And now here was a kid who was simply hungry. For a simple bowl of rice.
We had been ready to possibly fire him. We were raring to give him a stern lecture or rake him over the coals. Make an example of him to the other employees.
Over a simple bowl of rice.
The fire was not there. How could we get angry? He needed a hug and a meal. Not our vitriol.
Just shut my mouth!
We so take things for granted. We Americans hear about people who don’t have enough food all the time.
But they are always “somewhere else.” They are not the people you are in contact with day-to-day.
All of us have full refrigerators and pantries. At 3 p.m., we are “starving” for a bag of chips. Or “starving” for a candy bar. We are “famished” to have dinner.
Just shut my mouth.
We’re going to make some changes. No one doesn’t eat on our watch.
That’s my story…
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of July 5, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
In addition to our sportfishing operation here in La Paz, we also have a restaurant right on the waterfront. It’s been here close to 15 years now.
For so many years, it’s been kind of an information clearing house on so many levels. Mostly, a lot of fishermen asking for information; telling stories over beer; tourists needing recommendations for things to do and places to see.
In the last year or so, however, things are changing.
It seems that almost a day doesn’t not go by where someone says something like..
“So, tell me about real estate here.”
“Do you recommend any realtors?”
“What’s it like to live here?”
Or, the more direct…
“I’m here to buy real estate.”
“I just bought a new place.”
“We’re having a place built.”
“Hi. We’re your new neighbors!”
That is usually accompanied by a hearty happy handshake and a proud-as-punch grin.
I almost feel like I should bake ‘em some house-warming cookies or they’re going to ask to borrow a cup of sugar.
Personally, my wife and I live in a little tiny studio apartment near the waterfront that looks out over La Paz Bay. At night, my wife is fond of saying that 30 years ago, you could see some twinkling lights of La Paz City in the distance in the evenings.
The rest of the bay was India Ink darkness.
Now, she points out that there are lights completely around the bay and up and down the surrounding hillsides. The city is growing.
One of our local Mexican friends just happens to be a realtor. Her office is next door to our restaurant.
I give her quite a few referrals. She tells me her office is hopping. She jokingly said to me a few days ago, “All the gringos are moving to Baja. All the Mexicans are moving to California.”
More than a bit of truth in her humorous observation.
Post covid, statistics showed that Mexico became the #1 international travel destination for world travelers.
It was “open” compared to many countries. There was little fear of things getting shut down (again.) Economically, it’s a great value.
For Americans and Canadians, add in the fact that it’s relatively close. Easy in. Easy out.
With internet access becoming stronger and more widespread, you could easily do work while sitting on the beach sipping a cold one. It sure beat working from home during quarantine days!
No one even needed to know. As long as the boss got his reports, none-the-wiser!
Folks anxious to stretch their legs post-pandemic found Mexico to be a cakewalk for vacations.
Magazines and newspapers touted the numerous attractions of Mexico and especially the Baja. Our own little city of La Paz, once a sleepy little gem, ended up as one of the “Top 100 places in the world to visit.” Our beaches consistently show up in every travel magazine or online blog or social media page.
So, the rush seems to be on. For better or worse.
Some folks are setting up a vacation spot. Others are chasing a retirement dream. Others are just fed up with things back in the U.S.
Or their own countries.
I’m running into folks from Australia…Italians…folks with Italian accents. Canadians. Folks from the U.K. The exodus is on.
I’ve had folks come up to me and tell me they are visiting for the first time to see some land or a house they bought “online.” Sight unseen.
Some folks have that kind of money to buy property the way I purchase a set of screwdrivers off Amazon.
Others tell me they purchased land or a house in such-and-such an area. They’re elated.
Internally, I roll my eyes.
No one told them that the property sits on a flood plane and it fills with mud when we get the heavy rains. Or perhaps their “beach property” is only a block from the sewage outflow for the city.
I don’t want to or simply can’t bust their balloons. I smile and shake their hands and wish them well and congratulations.
Two new real estate offices just opened up down the street.
Condos are being built on the hillside behind us.
The neighborhood is changing.
Rapidly.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of July 1, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
A couple of guys arrived the other day down here for a week-long vacation to fish with our fleet here in La Paz. It was a first-time trip to Mexico for fishing.
Needless to say, they have been jacked to be down here. When they climbed off our shuttle van from the airport, their enthusiasm was completely in full turbo.
Like kids at Christmas. Couldn’t wait. That big blue ocean in front of them was just calling their names and they’d been waiting for months.
To that end, they wanted to show me all the new tackle they brought down. They couldn’t wait until later at the hotel. The wanted to show it to me right then and there. In my office.
Straight out’ve the shuttle van came the tackle bags and boxes. Click…zip…unsnap…unfold… Velcro…untie…unbox.
OH wow…Hmmmmmm….
Weeks ago, I had given them a small tackle list of “suggested items.” It came with the proviso that most folks don’t bring anything and just use our good gear. However, they are welcome to bring their own stuff.
Well, they took that list and went shopping.
Of course, when you’re in the tackle store, we’re all like little boys. We get attracted by shiny things, colors and gadgets.
Two of these…
…Two more of THAT color…
Yea…I’ll take some of those too…
Wow, never seen those before. Might as well buy some of those too! These have a nifty “wobble” when you cast them!
Jonathan said to bring 2 of THOSE lures. Well, what if I lose one or it’s the wrong color. I better buy 6 of them!
On and on.
And then, they started talking to the clerk at the tackle store. Of course, he’s an “expert.” He’s fished in Mexico several times.
But, never here in La Paz. Our area.
So, he tells them they need some of these
…and some of those
…and more of these.
So, they happily march out’ve the tackle store with all their new toys. Bag and bags. And bags FOR bags.
…and then they go talk to some of their friends. Who are (of course) also “experts.”
What? You didn’t by that new hot lure that’s on youtube?
Dude…I wouldn’t go to Mexico without some blue and white wiggly plugs!
Buddy, I saw this new gadget at the fishing show, you should think about bringing one to Mexico!
So, back to the tackle store! (Happily of course as now there is an “emergency” excuse to buy more things!)
And that brings us back to the present situation where all this wonderful colorful excess is now spread in front of me. The guys are ooh-ing and ahhh-ing like little kids.
Man…I hate to be a buzz kill. I don’t want to bust any balloons or curb their enthusiasm.
However, deep inside, I know that most of these things will NEVER see the water. Most will never get out’ve their wrappers or little boxes.
In an 8 or 10 hour fishing day, maybe only 50-60% of the time is actually fishing. The rest of the time is spent travelling; trolling; looking for fish; getting bait, cracking open a beer, etc.
You really just don’t have time to use all 6 colors of lures or 10 different styles of feathers or hooks or leaders… or anything else.
You have two arms and two hands. You can only use one rod and reel at a time.
And, if something suddenly works, you stay with it.
You don’t suddenly change baits or lures or colors just for the sake of change. Not when something is working like dynamite right then and there.
If it’s not broke, don’t fix it!
And, the captains and crews know what works. They’re professionals.
They live and work on the water. Putting food on the table and clothes in the house is dependent on them knowing their craft.
They will probably not be too keen to try some new fangled gadget or rig that may or may not work.
So, fight the urge to buy the whole tackle store or bring your whole garage of gear with you.
I worked in tackle stores for many years. Good stores with good personnel will give you the straight scoop as much as possible.
But remember, it’s also a business.
Just like a grocery store…the shiny colored things are at eye-level.
The more expensive things are in easy reach.
The big-name manufacturers get more shelf space. The cooler sexier looking gear is in a display case or lit by lighting “just so.”
Especially these days when the cost of extra luggage and gear on an airplane is escalating, be judicious and selective with what you purchase or bring down. Communicate with the outfit you’re fishing with.
Ask them what to bring.
Common sense.
Don’t bring a weeks’ worth of gear for 2 days fishing. Don’t buy tuna feathers if the season is only producing inshore species.
If the baits will only be little sardines, you don’t need giant hooks.
I didn’t have the heart to tell these new guys that they brought way too much stuff. I was like that way back in the day. As well. They’ll learn.
In the meantime, there’s no denying. It IS fun to go shopping for gear.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
A bad day fishing is better than a good day at work?
I don’t know who came up with that, but that’s a load. Being in the fishing industry now for many many decades, a bad day fishing is just a bad day.
Maybe not in the grand scheme of things, it’s not as terrible as say, losing your wallet or forgetting your anniversary, but you gotta admit, it’s a major disappointment.
From the standpoint of someone who runs a fishing operation, a client who comes back from fishing with zero fish may seem ambivalent. But, you know they are disappointed. I take it personally. I feel like it’s MY fault.
My old Catholic School upbringing drops a load of guilt on me, as if I was to blame that the weather didn’t cooperate. Or it’s my fault the bait was bad or the clients used the wrong lures.
It is what it is.
Fortunately, down here in Baja, tomorrow can turn into a banner day which somewhat helps to alleviate the current angst. There is always hope.
There was a time in my life, however, when a bad day for me on the water was the end of civilization as we know it. If I came off the water after a bad day watch out!
It could be a day when I didn’t catch fish. Or someone caught more or bigger fish than me. My competitive streak was all puckered.
Grumpy is an understatement. I would be fist-shaking-mad at the cosmos for daring to hand me such fate as a bad day of fishing. Personally insulted and inconsolable.
Fortune-cookie sayings like “A bad day fishing is better than a good day at work” or “It’s fishing not catching” be damned. A bad day is a bad day. I should have gone to work.
That is, until I got on the water again and the fish started biting. And just like that the world would right itself on an even keel.
Funny how fishermen can be like that. Guilty as charged.
But, I don’t think I’m that guy anymore.
I have good days. And I have not-so-good-days. But, I haven’t had a bad day in years.
Everyday is an 11. Or a 10 at worst.
Even when I don’t catch fish. Or someone catches more and bigger fish.
I’ve become quite content to let my wife catch more and bigger fish. Or the kids. Or whomever is on the boat with me.
Every day is a blessing and I appreciate just being out on the water.
It’s so much more fun to watch everyone else have fun. It’s like going to Disneyland of the beach too often. It can get old.
And then one day, you bring the grandkids for the first time. The magic comes back. It’s brand new again.
Or it’s you and a buddy NOT catching any fish, but still kicking back with a cold one and just laughing and talking. Some of the BEST talks!
And then there are the days when I’m alone on the water. Just me. No clients. No kids. No fishing buddy.
No hooks to tie. No one needs their backlashes untangled or hooks baited. No one forgot their sunscreen.
Just me and the captain.
And the fish just aren’t having any of it.
Simple conversation.
The sunrise.
The sound of the water under the bow.
The sun on my face and the taste of salt spray on my lips.
My hand trailing in the water.
The homemade burritos just taste so much better and the beer in the ice chest just burns the back of my throat from that first icy chug.
Maybe a quick doze to the rhythm of the motor as we troll.
A cellphone that has zero bars of signal.
Bare feet and happy toes on the warm deck.
My worst day just ain’t that bad anymore.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of April 15, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Food trends come and go. The newest tastiest thing that seems to pervade every menu in some way, shape or form. The come. They go. Some stick around. Some don’t.
Fried mozzarella cheese sticks
Sushi and Hawaiian Poke
Deep-fried ice cream
Garlic truffle fries
Dim sum
Ramen
Spam
Fried Calamari
Everyone has them in places you wouldn’t normally expect it. French restaurants putting their own spin on raw fish. Asian eateries with fried cheese sticks in spicy ponzu sauce and even Spam dishes. Mexican cantinas with nacho fries.
Many of these things aren’t “new” per se. They were just “discovered” by the culinary world and blew up everywhere.
For instance, I remember eating cold raw fish and marinated fish as a kid in Hawaii. With cold rice too!
It wasn’t “gourmet” back then. It was cold because we didn’t have propane for cooking. Couldn’t cook!
Just the way it was. We used lots of soy sauce to flavor everything!
Years ago, our restaurant in La Paz was the first and only place that served Hawaiian-style poke…fresh chunks of fish marinated and served cold with soy, ginger, sugar, sesame and minced onions.
Now, I’ve lost count of the restaurants that serve some variation of it in our city. Oh well. I guess imitation is the best form of flattery.
And, now, the hot new things seems to be “Mexican Street Corn.” I saw it everywhere the last 3 months travelling in the U.S. From Texas to Washington State and Wyoming to California. Menus in diners in roadside truck stops as well as menus in fine eateries in big cities.
I can’t say I blame ‘em. Not everyone might like fried cheese, or raw fish or garlic on anything. But, it’s a rare person that doesn’t like sweet hot corn.
In La Paz, where we live, it’s a go-to snack late at night. A big order can be a whole meal. And it’s cheap. If I were still a college kid, instead of all that ramen I ate, I could very well get by with a big cup hot of Mexican street corn.
Most of the guys in our local neighborhood ride “bike carts” to sell their “Elote.” (corn). The Elotero’s bike cart is usually a jimmied-together reverse tricycle with one big wheel in the back and two forward supporting a platform and often an awning.
These eloteros usually come out as it gets dark and set up on a street corner somewhere. Lines can form quickly.
For the more popular carts, it’s not unusual for lines to remain well into the night. Just like as kids we would hit Jack-in-the-Box or Denny’s after a night partying, a big cup of steaming sweet corn is perfect before heading home.
Step up and tell the elotero if you want a big cup or small cup.
He’ll grab a Styrofoam cup and ladle in some hot kernels from the big pot or basin on his bike. He fills it about ½ up.
Then, some thick white Mexican crema. Mexico’s version of sour cream.
Then a squirt of Valentina salsa similar to tangy Tobasco.
Then more corn on top of that.
Top it with more cream. Another squirt of Valentina.
Then a sprinkle of chili powder. Then a spoonful of salty cotija cheese. Very much like sprinkling parmesan on your pasta.
Layer after layer of yumminess.
He hands you a spoon and a napkin and off you go with your Mexican street corn goodness! The newer places will also have a squirt of lime juice as well before you head off.
Many times, you just stand on the street corner with everyone else or sit on the curb. Or lean on a light pole and start spooning up the tasty concoction.
A big cup is maybe 2 bucks at the most. Often cheaper. That spare change in your pocket is enough to buy a filling meal of this good stuff. It’s a deal. Back in my early days, when all I had WAS pocket change, a cup-o-corn carried me through as my dinner!
Next time you’re in Baja and wandering back to your hotel room and see the guy on the bike cart with a big vat and an “ELOTE DELICIOSO” sign lettered across it, step up for the original street treat.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
____________________
Jonathan has been writing the Baja Column for Western Outdoor News since 2004. He lives in La Paz with his best fishing buddy and wife, Jilly, where they run their Tailhunter Sportfishing Fleet for almost 30 years as well as their Tailhunter Sea Level Restaurant on the La Paz waterfront Malecon. If you’re in town, stop and say hi!)
Originally Published the Week of Dec. 13, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Christmas time in Baja.
Specifically, here in La Paz where we live and have our businesses.
On so many levels, the air is definitely different this year. And, on so many levels, it’s easier to breathe.
It’s palpable
Practically speaking, masks are pretty much down. Exhale. Inhale. Exhale again. It’s been awhile.
You can probably relate. Feels pretty good not to talk through a piece of cloth. Or trying to figure out what you were saying to me!
I have a hard enough time understanding Spanish or trying to make sure my Spanish was correct. Let alone trying to do it through a mask!
And hey! That’s a smile under there. I was tired of just looking at your eyes!
The pandemic hit Mexico especially hard. It whacked Baja really hard, especially for an economy that depends so heavily on tourism.
Seventy percent of the population lives hand-to-mouth. It’s a cash economy. No one is on anyone’s books.
If you have a job, most get paid in cash or what you can sell. Conversely you pay cash as well.
Cash. No checks. No credit card. No bank account .
What’s in your pocket at the end of the day is how you feed yourself and your family. And back home, that could be a lot of folks living in a small space.
No school. No computers. No Netflix. Beaches closed. Stores closed. Restaurants closed. Curfews enforced. Entire areas completely off-limits.
Sit and stare at the rest of your family for days-on-end.
If you were actually on someone’s payroll and that business closed it’s doors during pandemic, that was just tough luck.
No feel-good stimulus checks. No unemployment checks. It doesn’t work like that in Mexico.
No money . No food . Simple as that.
Last Christmas, there wasn’t a lot of hoo-haaa.
So much lingering uncertainty . Many places and events still closed. Even churches were closed.
Fast forward to Christmas 2021.
This year, most of Mexico is now in the green level. It’s been a long transition from being in the red.
In our city of La Paz, I’ve heard it’s got one of the highest levels of vaccination. Something like 85% of the population has their shots.
Tourists are flocking to Mexico, in general, and Baja, in particular. It’s a quick hop from the U.S. No need to quarantine or prove you’re vaccinated to enter.
The dollar is strong. Mexico wants you. Mexico needs you. There are deals to be had. The world is figuring out Mexico is a good value as well.
The border is “officially” open now. Technically, it’s been closed since early 2020 although it was easy enough to drive across. But, it deterred many visitors from…well…visiting!
So, there’s a reason for optimism in the air.
You can just tell walking around town.
It’s good to see decorations and lights again. It’s good to see people in the stores and restaurants.
There are actually real live people hanging out on the beaches again. Not just police shooing people away or giving out tickets.
Even Mexicans are travelling. It’s OK this year to go see family and friends.
The surest sign of hope and optimism…I saw a wedding and a baptism at our local cathedral.
And that’s the difference. There’s a subtle sense of joy in locals and visitors alike. They’re enjoying themselves! Not looking over their shoulders or over masks.
Yes, people are gathering.
We may have this virus with us for a long time. Things will probably never be like it was, but there’s an actual air of hope.
You can feel it. You can breathe it.
It probably makes the health officials cringe. And government officials cautiously tippie-toe on eggshells hoping the other shoe doesn’t drop on the merriment or economy.
But, for now, it’s a good time to enjoy the smiles.
A good time to appreciate the moment. A time not to be taken for granted. A time to appreciate each other again and how precious simple freedom is to each of us.
It can be fleeting. As we saw only a year ago. Poof…gone!
I’m not talking about political freedom.
It’s even more basic.
The simplicity of walking where we want to walk. Taking a big unhindered breath. Going where you want to go. Shake a hand. Give a hug. Eat dinner with the family.
Hold a child.
This is the precious air you can gratefully breathe this Christmas.
May it wrap and surround you and yours.
Revel in it. Amen.
That’s my story! May you and yours be blessed this holidays and Christmas.
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 22, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
No one likes surprises when they travel. Travel can be pretty stressful as it is. Even moreso, travel during the holidays is also high anxiety time.
As luck would have it, I got to fly back to Texas from our home in La Paz to spend Thanksgiving with my wife and family. After not having a day off pretty much since last April, I couldn’t wait to jump on a plane.
As usual, I went to obtain my covid test within 72 hours of my flight.
In case you missed it or haven’t traveled internationally, since January, anyone entering the U.S. on an international flight MUST show a negative Covid test result within 72 hours of the flight.
No biggie.
Quick swab of my schnoz takes a few minutes and results pop up on your cellphone within the hour.
We’ve had hundreds of fishing clients for our Tailhunter Fleet in La Paz over the past season. It’s a little inconvenient, but just part of travelling these days along with so many other protocols we live with.
Everyone gets one then goes happily on their way back to the U.S.
So, I was all set. I had my passport, ticket, and my covid results for travel the next day.
I went to check in online and get my boarding pass and get a notice that curled my toes!
The CDC has implemented NEW RULES as of Nov. 8 for international travelers entering the U.S.
Basically, if you have been vaccinated, you still need to show a negative covid test result within 72 hour of your flight home. The problem is if you have NOT been vaccinated.
I have not been vaccinated. In fact, I’m getting it THIS week in Texas. There was no rush.
I had Covid bad last year. I’ve tested positive for the anti-bodies. I didn’t want to get vaccinated in Mexico. I’ve been there solid for 8 months.
Understandably, I’d much rather get any shots or vaccinations in the U.S. with my own doctors.
Well, the new rule requires that ALL UN-VACCINATED persons MUST show a negative covid test within 24 HOURS of the flight. Further, I had to attest that upon arrival, I would self-quarantine for a few days. Plus, I had to promise that I would get the vaccination within 60 days of arrival.
Yikes!
So, I had to run back to the testing lab in La Paz and get a 2nd negative covid test. I know the staff there and they were surprised that I returned for the 2nd time in 2 days.
They were surprised at the explanation and had no knowledge of the new rules. However, they graciously expedited my results.
The other bump in the road is that the online check-in does not work if you have not been vaccinated. Therefore, instead of TWO hours checking in before your international flight, it requires you check in FOUR hours before your flight to show your paperwork.
My flight was at 11:00 a.m. from Cabo.
Normally, I would arrive about 9 a.m. for a flight like that. Since it’s 3 hours drive from La Paz, that means leaving about 6 a.m. to head to the airport.
With the new regulations, I had to leave at 4 a.m. to get to the airport by 7 a.m.
Grrrrrr….talk about adding stress to a travel day.
Once I was there, it was easy. The folks at the airport were more than helpful and since the early days of the pandemic have tried to alleviate all the confusion and stress.
There are assistants everywhere directing travelers to the correct places or helping with forms and documents. Everyone I’ve ever run into speak English.
I’m glad I got there early, even if it was a pain. I’m glad I knew about the new rules BEFORE I got to the airport or there was a good chance I would have been denied travel.
So, bottom line is this:
If you have not been vaccinated, you must obtain a negative covid test with 24-hours of your flight for anINTERNATIONAL flight.
You must check in at least 4 hours ahead of your flight.
Plan ahead and hopefully, you’ll have a smoother easier travel day.
By the way, after more than a year-and-a-half, the border is now open as long as you can show proof of vaccination.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 17, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Having a fishing business down here, I could usually tell when the warm water season was cooling down. The signs are usually everywhere.
The kinds of fish start to change. Instead of warm water species like billfish, tuna, dorado, etc., we there are fewer in the counts. More inshore species acclimated to cooler waters like sierra, pargo, snapper, cabrilla and amberjack become more prevalent.
The winds from the north start to blow a little stronger and more consistently. The waters are choppier and cooler.
The sun is at a different angle and throws longer shadows around.
It sounds silly to the tourists, but we are starting to wear sweatshirts and long pants even though the temps are still in the high 70’s. Tourists are still running around in shorts and t-shirts. To us, it’s unequivocally cooler.
You can even tell by the types of visitors we’re getting.
Not quite so many folks from California or Arizona, Utah, Texas or Nevada.
Now, we’re getting more Canadians, Alaskans and folks from Oregon, Washington and the Dakotas. They don’t ask much about fishing or what they will catch. They just want to know if there will be sunshine.
Even if it’s a cool 70 degrees here, it’s still much warmer than what they’ve got back home so yes, the snowbirds are already showing up.
The crowds are definitely down.
Families are largely gone. Kids are back in school. Fishermen as well. Everyone’s getting ready for holidays back in the U.S. It’s a quieter time down here.
However, the biggest indicator of the changing seasons can be viewed by anyone driving around town. And it usually elicits a collective groan.
Christmas is already in the air here in Mexico.
Usually, in the U.S. we can generally figure it kicks in right after Thanksgiving.
Well, there’s no Thanksgiving holidays here in Mexico. Halloween is growing, but it’s a minor little kid thing mostly.
So, just about the end of September, here we go!
Stores are pushing aside merchandise and stocking rows and rows of toys. Those that don’t have the room, erect huge “TOY TENTS” in their parking lots.
Christmas decorations are already on the shelves as well. In fact, if you don’t purchase them now, there probably will not be any around by the beginning of December and the stores do not re-stock. Once they’re gone…they’re gone!
Christmas tree lots are also popping up in vacant lots and parking areas.
You can see where the fencing is being put in and banners advertising “Fresh Oregon Christmas Trees” are already being hung in anticipation of the arrival of trees in a few weeks.
They’ll be here by the beginning of November and folks will snap them up. Nothing like a fresh “Oregon Christmas Tree” in the living room. How you keep a tree fresh and fragrant for two months is beyond me.
I’m just not quite ready for this.
I know in a few weeks, shop owners will start painting elves and fake snow on storefronts. Somehow, it’s just not the same in Mexico seeing fake snow sprayed on things.
For most folks, the only snow they want to see is inside the rim of a margarita glass or when they pop an ice chest full of Pacifico or Dos Equis long-necks.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
What a long-strange trip it’s been. Me selling fishing trips in the street circa 1995. Only thing I could think of doing.
WISH I KNEW THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 24, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Looking back on almost 30 years here in Baja, I was thinking of what an incredible and improbably journey this has been. It’s been the trip of a lifetime.
I’m grateful. What was supposed to be a one-year exciting hiatus from practicing law turned into an unexpected and (initially) unwanted and scary realization that I couldn’t leave.
After almost a year, folks I had gone to work for fired me. A long story for another day.
However, when they chased me off, they refused to return my passport and had never filed my work papers! They also owed me several months of pay.
So, I’m illegal and broke! And I’m stuck.
I had no visible or viable means of support, income, housing or food. I’m in a foreign country where my Spanish pretty much consisted of Spanish expletives and fishing terminology.
“Vamos por cervezas” (Let’s get some beer!) wasn’t going to get me far.
But things turned out. It’s that saying about God closing windows and opening other doors. The good Lord busted my butt in so many ways, but he opened a huge door for me to step through.
I was hungry and didn’t really have a choice. I had to figure a way to eat and I couldn’t sleep in my van forever!
But looking back, I wish I knew then what I know now about so many things. I made a list of some of them.
For one. I realize you can get by with very little if you need to. It doesn’t take much. It’s nice to have a full pantry. It’s nice to have amenities.
But, it makes you grateful for many small things and also humbles you thinking about your Mexican friends and acquaintances. They can get by a lot better than most Americans I know.
Almost everything is negotiable. Except for grocery stores and gas stations, pretty much everything else from services to goods is negotiable.
The price is what whatever the seller is willing to accept and you’re willing to pay. Trade has worked more often than I can remember. Win-win for both sides.
“Manana” does not always mean “tomorrow” when it comes to business or social commitments. Manana could mean “3 days from now.”
It could also mean “later.” It could mean “whenever I get to it.” It could also be a polite way of being told, “It ain’t gonna happen so don’t count on me.”
Speaking of “later,” most everyone is late. I’ve come concluded that Mexican driver speed because they are late.
After running businesses for almost 3 decades, nothing I do can force my employees to be on time. No amount of penalties, bonus pay, threats or jumping up-and-down will get them to be on time. So, accept it and deal with it as best you can.
“Guarantees,” “Warranties,” “Contracts” usually aren’t worth the paper they are written on. New roof collapses. Too bad.
Car stalls in the desert. Hope you brought water and a cellphone. They raised the cost of something before the contract expires? What will do you…file a lawsuit? You’re on your own.
Water is precious and not to be wasted. Electricity is something not everyone has so don’t take it for granted. It makes EVERYTHING better. Air-conditioning is the greatest invention since duct tape.
If something breaks, we think we must find a specialty part or store. Home Depot. West Marine. Walmart.
Mexican people are some of the most innovative and inventive I’ve ever seen. If they can fix or jury rig something out’ve wire, rope or scrap, they will. And it will work. At least until it breaks again.
Along those same thoughts, if something can break, it will. If you lend it out, it will probably get broken. Thing you never ever thought someone would break, will break.
How does one snap something so solid as a hammer or screwdriver in half? How does a power drill suddenly not work after 10 years? How does a blender or microwave only last a month? How does someone drive a truck into the ocean or a boat into the docks full speed?
You will always get a shrug when you ask how that could have happened. No se! (I don’t know!) “It must be defective!”
Some things can’t be jury rigged.
And some things never change.
For instance, never turn down an offer of a home-cooked meal. Especially by someone’s mama. The world over, if someone’s mama offers to cook you dinner, you’re a fool to decline. Best food ever.
Gringos drink tequila. I don’t know many Mexican friends that actually drink tequila as a first choice if something else is available. They smilingly watch the gringos knock back tequila drinks. The locals that come to our bar prefer beer, whiskey and pina coladas.
Here’s a big one. One persons idea of “corruption” is another person’s idea of “culture.”
Earlier, I stated that everything is negotiable. A good example is bribes. Against the law. Bad stuff. Here in Mexico it’s more like “tipping.”
I’m not talking about getting ticketed for no reason by bad cops.
I’m talking about getting tickets for failing to stop; speeding; bad parking or going down a one-way street. It happens. Not the end of the world. You get a ticket.
I hate to say it but “tipping” the cop to just give you a warning is right up there with tipping the waiter for an extra cup of ice or onions-on-the-side. Or your boat captain for a good day. Or the mechanic for a special job.
I’ve had many a gal tell me she doesn’t think twice about batting her eye lashes and flirting to get out’ve a ticket back in the U.S. I don’t have eyelashes or anything that a cop would think attractive.
But, I do have some extra pesos I keep in my ashtray. And it works.
I was in the wrong. I deserve a ticket. The cop wants some beer after work. Here’s some pesos. He tells me be more careful next time.
It’s win-win and we both smile. Just the way things work.
Lastly, no matter how hard you try, things do not and will not happen fast here. You are way ahead if you get just one thing done per day. You can’t make a “to do” list here in Mexico.
Do some banking. Pay a bill. Get to the grocery store. Wash the car. If you accomplishe one thing, don’t even try for the other things on your list.
Crack a beer. Day is done.
Just how things are down here. I learn more every day.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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His articles also appear in:
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Sacramento Bee
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That's My Story 