DESERT GHOSTS
Originally Published the Week of Jan. 12, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
I’ve always had this weird (not creepy) thing about looking at (and into) people’s houses.
At the time I’m writing this, we’re driving across country to the fishing and hunting shows in various cities around the western U.S. We’ve exhibited at these shows from January to April for almost 30 years to talk to folks about fishing with our company in La Paz.
We have our booth packed up and are on our way to the Wild Sheep Foundation Show in Reno, NV. Over the past 3 days, we’ve driven across Texas, New Mexico and Nevada.
My wife Jill is driving and I’m tapping out on my laptop.
And looking at people’s houses.
I like to guess what they do. I’m intrigued by their story.
Why they happened to plant themselves in this particular area near that particular town.
Or in the middle of nowhere.
I look at what’s in the yard. Kid’s toys? A rusty swing? A bunch of old cars? An RV? Five later model cars and a mini-van? Or 5 cars on concrete blocks?
Is the yard done? Is there even a yard or just tumbleweeds and a cotton field in the back.
There’s a washing machine on the front porch of a single-wide modular. Or is there a swimming pool out back?
You can tell a lot.
Driving up and down Baja, I have that same fascination.
But, it’s not the occupied homes that I focus on.
It’s the empty houses.
Empty buildings have a story as well. And sometimes they talk.
These are the abandoned homes and buildings standing ( or leaning) in the middle of the Baja landscape. You find them built on the side of a hillside. Or they are tucked onto the bank of an arroyo or still standing observant by the side of the highway.
Dilapidated. Wind, sun-baked and weather torn. Collapsing roofs and leaning walls. Warped and sandblasted wood. Maybe some leftover traces of color or paint.
The Baja is not kind to old buildings left unattended.
Fascinating head-scratchers. I wonder about those stories.
Why here? It’s the only house for miles. What were they thinking?
No obvious source of water. No towns or communities nearby to drive to…or if the house is that old… nothing nearby to walk to…or ride a cart or burro to.
Is this as far as the got? Is this where the donkey cart finally busted an axle?
Maybe the few small tree trunks stuck in the ground at crazy angles are evidence of an old corral.
Stone, bricks and adobe are handy.
How did the even get the wood to build? It’s not like Baja has a lot of treeworthy lumber around. Did the haul it here? From where?
Baja isn’t exactly known for its forests.
Occasionally, you find a small cluster of buildings. Or what’s left of them.
Perhaps an extended family. Again, why here? And what happened to them.
Maybe as often happens, parents settle. Raise kids in the hardscrabble environment. Kids move on as they grow up. Parents pass.
Or the parents pass and the dream of living in the middle of nowhere is not the dream of their progeny. They move on.
Buildings are abandoned.
I’ve never trespassed, but if it looks like it doesn’t matter, I like to stop. Normally, it’s not like anyone cares. There’s no one around for miles and I doubt the tumbleweeds or jackrabbits care.
But, poking around old buildings…they sometimes talk to you if you look.
A blackened brick outdoor firepit. A sign that there was probably no electricity when these folks lived there. They cooked outside.
No signs of plumbing of any kind.
Rough carpentry. Uneven door and window frames. No signs that glass ever filled those windows.
Old uneven hammered rusty nails protrude from splintering dried wood. These didn’t come from Home Depot. They look like tiny sharpened spikes…handmade. Probably pretty precious back in the days.
In fact, there are signs that furniture and parts of the buildings may have been bound together with what remains of rope or old leather strips.
I find an old bent spoon in what would have been a dirt floor.
I have found an old coin or almost rubbed smooth and largely unidentifiable.
There are dark patches along walls where perhaps candles or old fuel lanterns once burned.
I found lots bleached fish bones around the back of one building. They ate fish? We were 10 miles from any body of water.
I once found two old crosses and a weathered upright stone marker side-by-side. They were in the shade of an old scrub tree back behind what may have been an old shed or barn.
Nearby the remains of a cracked clay vase that long ago may have held desert flowers. A family cemetery?
Whoever lived in these places are long gone and forgotten. But, there was a story here at one time.
I think in some sense, moving through these old living spaces makes them somewhat more real. A reminder that real people and families once lived here. Had dreams here.
And moved on. While the desert moves back to reclaim everything.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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That's My Story 