VOICES in A MEXICAN GRAVEYARD
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 20, 2023 in Western Outdoor Publications
As I have often mentioned, Halloween is viewed a little differently down here in Mexico.
Sure, there’s no denying that it is being edged closer and closer to the “candy and ghosts” event we witness in the U.S. especially in the bigger tourist cities.
But, that’s mostly for kids.
And from what I’ve seen, most don’t know why in the world they wear costumes in the first place. Or why knocking on doors gets candies.
You definitely don’t get the hordes of little witches, goblins and skeletons that I remember as a kid. Now THAT was an event!
Here in Mexico, the Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) is somewhat more refined, as it were. Celebrations, often quite raucous can be found in the local cemeteries with families and friends taking the opportunity to remember loved ones.
There’s music and food; barbecues and beer; laughter and yes…dancing on graves! I guess it’s like a big tailgate party. Mexico style.
In almost 30 years here in Mexico, I’ve never had the opportunity, but have always wanted to go. But, these are family affairs.
I don’t want to just “show up” uninvited. That would be rude and bad form.
And no one ever invited me!
However, last year, my wife Jill and I were spending a few days with friends at the old Hotel Las Cruces.
It’s been there since the 40’s. The original land holdings, however, were there since the conquistadores.
You have to take an hour-long dirt road. Back in time. Thousands of private acres of remote Baja coastline.
You have to be a vetted member. It’s old-school and quite formal. One must dress for dinner! Some staff members have been there for decades.
Ricky and Lucy Ricardo had a house on the property. Bing Crosby, John Wayne, many celebrities and several U.S. Presidents can be found in the yellowed registration pages.
It’s not grand. It’s not ostentatious.
They play shuffleboard and cards. No blender at the bar. Shaken not stirred please. The kitchen staff and waitresses wear pinafores right outta central casting in the 50’s.
Chuck Conners shot pool on the billiard table. There’s a lawn croquet course set up and a mini-driving range to hit balls into the desert.
It’s just a collection of low bungalows hiding from the passage of time on hundreds of Spanish land-grant ranchland.
On this particular time last year for Dia de Los Muertos, the hotel management arranged for us to be driven to the old ranch cemetery. It was to be a “special event.”
We were asked to dress appropriately for the evening.
At sunset, hotel guests climbed into the hotel vans and we drove through the desert along the rugged coast. The bumpy dirt road lead us through old date and palm groves. Through tangles of brush and along the old cliffs.
At times, it felt we were driving along a trail rather than a road as we jostled to wherever we were going.
But, eventually we stopped and stepped out.
Our hotel host then lead us down another dirt trail toward the seaside cliffs and even deeper into the trees and scrub. This was pretty exciting!
We finally stopped.
And I have never seen something like this nor expected anything as rustically grand.
We were in a tiny clearing of graves. Dozens of graves outlined with white stones of different sizes.
Many with old-weathered headstones. Some were blistered sun-bleached wood. Others of crude chiseled rock. Many so old the names and info were long swept away by age and the Baja climate of sun, salt and sand.
Some had no markings or were so old that the stones had long since deteriorated.
Some were obviously adults. Others obviously children by the size of the white-stone outlines.
But every gravesite was outlined with the small white stones.
And every gravesite was swept and cleaned and covered in candles and flowers!
In fact, the whole cemetery was lit with hundreds of candles!
In the light of the late Baja sunset dusk, it was romantically beautiful.
And the hotel had arranged for several local guitarists to play Spanish serenades for us. They were dressed in traditionally colorful folklore.
There was also a small cocktail bar with hors d’oeuvres.
In a cemetery!
It was explained to us that this was the old ranch cemetery and that some of the graves were over 150 years old. Many were the original workers on the ranch or lived in the surrounding countryside.
“We may have forgotten their names, but we remember and celebrate their spirit! We hope this makes them smile that they are not forgotten. If you listen carefully, they will speak to you and hopefully you can hear the sound of happy laughter.”
A old graveyard on Halloween night. I could never have imagined such a joyful happier place to be.
I like to think I heard the laughter too!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International
Website:
www.tailhunter-international.com
Mexico Office: Tailhunter International, 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
U.S. Mailing Address: Tailhunter International, 8030 La Mesa Blvd. #178, La Mesa CA 91942
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863
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Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/
Tailhunter YouTube Video Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBLvdHL_p4-OAu3HfiVzW0g
“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”
That's My Story 