BLUE PLATE SPECIAL
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 28, 2023 in Western Outdoor Publications
Several columns ago, I wrote a piece regarding when Mexican food NOT Mexican food. It mentioned things like nachos, pre-formed taco shells and chili having non-Mexican origins.
I was pleasantly surprised at the number of comments I received from readers.
As one reader laughingly wrote, “You personally destroyed my entire concept of Mexican food and so many of my favorite dishes!”
But, as I’ve heard so often, our American concept of various ethnic and nationalized food is often skewed by what we are exposed to in the U.S.
For example, I could have probably written about Chinese or Italian food being completely different from our American experiences if we actually visited those countries.
Not withstanding, several of the e-mails, I received actually asked, where I would personally find the best Mexican food.
Amazingly, once again, it’s not found in a traditional spot per se.
Yes, it’s restaurant food. However, it’s very atypical to what Americans visualize as a restaurant and they are pretty easy to find.
They dot the landscape especially along the highways and backroads, little towns and pueblos. Often, they are stand-alone solitary non-descript buildings.
Sometimes they are actually marked with a crude sign announcing “Restaurante” or “Lonche” (Lunch).
Other times, you just have to know.
A tell-tale weathered Coca-Cola sign or Modelo Beer logo nailed to a post or painted on the wall is a pretty good indication.
There may or may not be cars parked outside. Don’t count on it.
Very often it’s a concrete slab with half-walls and some kind of patio with plastic chairs. Other times, it’s really nothing more than a big extra room in the cinderblock home of a family.
There could be one big table. There could be several small tables. Nothing really seems to match unless they are the universal plastic tables and chair given out by the beer companies.
But the room itself often has the hominess of someone’s big living room. Often it is. Yup…there’s a TV on the wall or counter.
There might be a small religious shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe with a votive candle in the corner.
Or it could be the back patio that looks out over an expanse of Baja desert and rock. And lots of scrub brush and cactus.
Oh yea…and maybe a dog or chicken or two.
C’mon in and sit down.
You will never find these little places on Google or Yelp or other social media platform. Forget Facebook or looking for a website.
Don’t even count on a name.
One of my favorite spots is just an address. Loncheria 5.6 km a Playa Piedra (Lunch place 5.6 kilometers to Rocky Beach.)
Don’t expect to see a menu. Or something tacked on the wall.
There is none.
And therein is the beauty.
We Americans are accustomed to restaurant where we have choices or have a selection of things to eat and prepared for us.
In Mexico…especially in the outlying fronteras…a restaurant basically means you have the luxury and means to have someone cook for you. That’s it!
Kinda like getting invited to your auntie’s house or your grandma’s place. And Uncle Gerardo and Cousin Juanito will be helping out
You know you’re gonna get fed and get a meal, but they’re gonna cook what they have! The meal will be whatever is in the frig!
There’s always beans that have probably been on the stove for hours or days. Seasoned and savory.
There’s always amazing tortillas that did NOT come out’ve a plastic bag, but made the way they’ve been making tortillas for generations.
And you usually do have somewhat of a choice!
How do you want your eggs? Fried? Or really fried?
Maybe some rice?
Did you want some fresh ranch cheese? Or not.
Red salsa or green salsa?
Always hand made. Family recipes. Nothing out’ve a jar or can. And definitely not like that salsa in the commercial “from New York City!”
Oh wait…
They have some fish today. Or maybe it’s some fresh machaca beef. Or some rich brothy pozole pork stew!
It’s whatever they have and whatever is fresh. And cooked the only way they know how to cook it.
Or, like one of my favorite places in a little fishing village near Bahia Magdalena, the little grandmother always apologizes.
She only has two choices every time I go there. Shrimp or lobster? That’s what she has and that’s what she offers.
Are you kidding? She gives me both!
No apology necessary.
Whatever it is, you can always wrap your tortillas around it or shovel it into your mouth “local style” with the tortilla.
And you can always count on cold beer of some type. Usually Coke. No Pepsi. And always hot coffee.
And, it’s not unusual for them to come over and ask if you want more and then bring the pot over and ladle the rest of the pot or pan onto your plate!
And it’s always great and you never ever leave hungry.
There’s no bill. Mama tell you how much the meal costs. No credit cards accepted.
Pesos only please. Don’t expect change either. You might be the only folks who have stopped by all day.
Don’t worry. The meal costs pesos. My lobster dinner with 2 tails AND the shrimp would cost about 3 bucks.
And believe it or not, no tip is expected. But don’t dare walk out without leaving something! You’ll always get a grand smile.
…and leave with one as well. And a full happy tummy!
That’s my story
Jonathan
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