Too have been there in the 60’s when Cabo was just a beach…when people like Bing Crosby walked the halls of Hotel Las Cruces…when big fish were the norm in the Sea of Cortez and in the heyday of such great places like the Serenidad Hotel when the Johnsons hosted the Flying Samaritans and the aroma of barbecued pork could wafted down the coastline.
THE REWIND BUTTON
Originally Published the Week of Feb. 15, 2017 in Western Outdoor Publications
I was asked the other day how I might have done things differently now that I’ve marked more than 20 years working and living in Baja. I had to think about that because I’ve never given it much thought.
I confess much of my time, especially the early years, was spent dealing with the immediate present. I was more concerned with things like, “Where is my next meal coming from?” Or, “Dangit, do I have enough gas in the boat to make it back to the beach?” And, “How far can I make 200 pesos stretch until I get paid?”
Whew.
I gratefully have not had thoughts like that in a long time. Life doesn’t guarantee anything. I don’t take things for granted. However, at least at this stage in my life, I’m usually laughing to myself if those questions inadvertently race through my brain’s neurons.
But, looking back, I guess I would have changed a few things.
For one, I would have come to Baja sooner. I didn’t make it down to Baja until my early 30’s. I would have loved to have seen the Baja 10 or 20 years earlier…like the during the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s. I would have loved to have seen Cabo San Lucas “back in the day” when it was still a fishing town.
I would have loved to have seen the Baja of Gene Kira, Fred “Baja Ha-Ha” Hoctor, Neil Kelly and Ray Cannon and other great writers who saw Baja in the days when it was truly “la frontera” (the frontier).
If my time machine was powerful enough, what I wouldn’t give to have experienced the Baja of John Steinbeck on the Western Flyer with Ed Ricketts!
Looking back, I would had taken the time to have seen some of the great legendary landmark resorts and hotels in their heyday like Punta Chivato; Punta Colorada, Rancho Leonero, Las Cruces, Hotel Las Arenas or even The Old Mill in San Quintin and so many others.
Some are still going strong, but to have seen them “back in the day” would’ve been pretty special. So many are gone now or are a shadow of their previous glory when they sat alone on pristine fishing waters.
Likewise, the “old Finnie” Finisterra Hotel, Hotel Cabo San Lucas and the Hacienda Hotel hewn out’ve rocks and cliffs would have been something to have experienced in their days of elegance. I was fortunate enough to spend some time during their waning years, but to have been there when mariachis roamed the halls and played for well-heeled celebrities and guests must have been something to see.
Looking back, I would have brought my parents to Baja sooner. Lots of kids are brought down by their parents, but I was the first in the family to venture south. It wasn’t until many years later that I got my father to travel with me. Other family members followed over the years.
Those times remain some of the best memories with them. That “window” closed too soon and before long they had either had passed away or were too old to travel any longer. And all we have are the memories.
As another afterthought, why did I take so long to stick my head underwater? I was raised in the water. I spent many of my younger years in Hawaii. I was so intent on fishing from “above the surface” I never stuck my head “below the surface.”
Then, I got SCUBA certified. It opened up an entire new spectacular world that so enthralled me, I kept going until I got my divemaster certification and became a working divemaster. The waters surrounding the Baja are some of the most incredible in the world. It also made me not only a better fisherman, but also gave me a greater appreciation for all for the ocean and especially Baja.
I surely would have spent more time in the bush. When you’re living hand-to-mouth, you like to be somewhat close to things like water, gas, electricity and transportation. . . No matter how primitive. I would have spent more time as far away from those things as possible knowing that with each approaching year, it would be increasingly difficult because those places are disappearing.
In the same vein, I would have literally “taken the roads less traveled.” More deserted roads should have been explored. I should have followed more goat paths.
They should have been followed to find out what beach, canyon, vista or adventure lay at the end. Nowadays, too many others have already been down those roads.
Finally, I would have learned Spanish earlier and worked at it harder. It’s my greatest regret that I’m not more fluent. Language is the ultimate “code.”
I’ve gotten better, but I think of how so many previous experiences would have been enriched by knowing and understanding Spanish better. I can only think of what I missed by not understanding a word here or a phrase there. Likewise, if I had a better command of Spanish, I could have contributed more as well.
Yes, it would have been great to have done so many things earlier. Still, I’ve got no regrets! But, I guess it’s not too late. And that’s the beauty of Baja. There’s still so much waiting to be experienced and folks continue to discover what a special place it is!
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter-international.com. They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”