Originally Published the Week of Jan. 26, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Well…check any source and you’ll find that the number one travel destination since covid started is (drumroll)…MEXICO!
This is not just for Americans. It’s apparently the top spot for the whole world.
It’s pretty easy to get to, especially for Americans. There’s lots of flights. Or you can drive or jump a cruise ship.
It’s pretty economic. Foreign currency against the Mexican peso is pretty strong. For Americans, the dollar is huge. It’s 20 pesos to the U.S. dollar. International money goes a lot further than in many other countries.
It’s easy to come home. That’s pretty important. When you’re ready to come home…you come home!
Your chances of getting stranded there are pretty slim because of Covid. Your own country might put the pinch on you, but not Mexico.
In fact, there have been some new changes in Mexican restrictions.
As of this month, Mexico has completely dropped all entry requirements. Gone! Deleted! You are welcomed with open arms.
You can argue whether that is good or bad, but it is what it is. I make no judgements. Don’t kill the messenger.
However, borders are now open. In fact, many would ventur that they were never really closed at all. It was pretty leaky.
You also no longer have to fill out either the paper or digital health-care form to enter Mexico. This was the form asking thing like whether you had been in contact with a Covid person or whether you had Covid.
I always thought it was silly. I mean…who is going to answer “yes” on the way to their vacation? Who wants to get told they have to go in the little back room for secondary questioning when the tour bus to the hotel is waiting outside and your luggage is spinning mindlessly on the carousel?
Additionally, Mexican President Obrador has said he doesn’t plan to ever ask for proof of vaccinations.
But, there’s a small caveat.
Individual states, areas or businesses like restaurants, bars and casinos might ask for your vax card. However, according to sources, it’s just like many places in the U.S. with masks. It only applies if the rule is enforced and no one seems to really enforce it.
In lieu of that, proof of a negative covid test within 48 hours will also work. Jalisco is one of the states that recently implemented the rule about showing a vax card.
So, basically, it’s time travel. Mexico is back to pre-covid 2019 in terms of travel.
As of right now, the only real bump in your travel road is coming BACK to the U.S. or entering the U.S. if you’re a foreign national.
The U.S. requires that within 24 hours of your flight back to the U.S. you need to take a rapid Covid test. And, of course, it has to come back negative.
The test takes 15 minutes and you get your results usually within the hour on your cellphone. The airports all have facilities as do many hotels. Or the hotels will have someone come to the hotel.
There are also a plethora of labs that sprang up all over the place understandably.
This applies whether you are vaccinated or not.
If you are a foreign traveler headed to the U.S., the new rules mandate that you must show proof of vaccination now.
Stay tuned. The picture changes all the time!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Jan. 3, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Back in the day when I lived close to the somewhat remote East Cape area of Baja, I loved getting invited to someone’s house for dinner. It was a special treat.
First and foremost, it sure beat the one-pan meals I would usually cook for myself. The food at these gatherings would be simple, but they were always the best-of-the-best spread they had to offer and tremendously delicious.
I remember barbecued meat or fried fresh fish. Often it was something they had caught or one of their own animals.
I was a grateful beneficiary to the sharing of the largesse.
Of course handmade tortillas, beans and rice and maybe grilled vegetables or fresh cheese! Dang. I secretly always hoped there would be that fresh farm cheese.
Plates and cups never matched. Lots of well-used plastic. The cups seemed to be those indestructible plastic/ acrylic things we all had in our cupboards back in the day. Free with a fill-up of gas (or a steak knife) or were bought from the neighbor’s kid raising money for school.
Somehow, those same cups magically migrated to Mexico!
Silverware was burnished and scratched. No big thing. Lots of paper napkins. No matter.
These folks might not have much, but everything was always spic-and-span and pridefully clean in the home.
It was not only a treat, but an honor to be invited to the family home.
Often, there might be another family or two… or extended family member at the table as well. A few cousins. A tio or tia (uncle or auntie). Maybe some neighbors.
Again, sharing the wealth.
It was typically a pot-luck kind of affair from what I could tell.
Cousin Jose and his family might bring some fresh ceviche. The neighbors ferried over a Tupperware of salsa fresca.
It seemed the uncles would ALWAYS bring beer. Always welcome and they seemed to drink the majority of it!
After dinner there was always talk.
Just fun and interesting conversation and b.s. directly dependent upon the level of beer consumption taking place.
My Spanish at that point wasn’t full-speed, but it was enough to participate and I often became the center of the chit-chat. It was usually something of an enjoyable question-and-answer session.
Parents…well, the moms asked about food and markets and clothes. Dads would talk about fishing or travel.
Politics were big. So were sports. The New York “Yonkeys” and the Los Angeles “Doyers.” Andale!
Recently, I was thinking about some of the great conversations with the kids.
The younger girls would ask about celebrities, fashion and movie stars.
Did I really see movie stars all the time and every day?
What is Hollywood like and tell them about a shopping mall.
The boys naturally wanted to know about American cars. American music. Of course…American girls.
Remember, these were the days before the internet was rampant and everyone had a cell phone. Often folks didn’t even have TV’s back then out there.
I was sort of the welcomed travelling bard. Folks were anxious to hear what was going on “out there.” Tell us some news. Tell us a story.
With the kids…
Often, we’d get into the typical, “What do you want to do when you get older?”
At the time, it was just fun conversation, but looking back, the responses were really eye-opening.
American kids talk …doctors…lawyers…executives…business owners…teachers…travel…own a ranch…own a sportscar…be a firefighter…engineer…computers…be a rockstar…attend a great university…be a pilot…marry a rich doctor…lawyer…blah blah blah!
For these, mostly rural Mexican kids, the bar wasn’t quite so high.
Most wouldn’t get past the mandatory 6th grade. So, like all kids, many were eager to “get outta school” to go to work.
Not so much to be independent like American kids…move out…have a car…get an apartment.
These Mexican kids were eager to work so they could help the family.
The aspirations weren’t so lofty.
“I will help my father catch fish for the market.”
“I will go to work at the farm picking vegetables.”
“I would like to move to the city. Maybe work at a restaurant or a hotel. Maybe clean rooms or wash dishes. I can stay with relatives.”
“I have a boyfriend and we will get married and have kids. He has a good job driving a truck for the market.”
The ambitions were much more tempered. Perhaps much more pragmatic in the big picture.
The big difference is that these are somewhat the kind of jobs American kids might do “on their way” to do something else. Like while they are in school.
Or a summer job.
Or for some pocket money.
For these Mexican kids, they are not jobs before they move onto something else. These are their CAREERS.
This is what they will most likely do for the rest of their working lives.
Forty or fifty years from now, it’s very likely, many will still be washing dishes or cleaning someone’s hotel room. Some will still be trying to catch enough fish to sell to the market and feed the family.
That fruit or vegetable farm still needs laborers.
That girl wanting to be married has raised another generation herself.
These “occupations” are the end game. There is no “glass ceiling” because there is no glass. That solid ceiling they see is the height of ambition and opportunity.
I’m trying to imagine some of the summer or school jobs I took in younger days. Could I have worked in a warehouse the rest of my life? Or driven a taxi? Or sold vacuum cleaners door-to-door?
Nothing wrong with good honest labor.
For Americans, we have the ability to envision better things. We can hope that around the corner our ship will come in. We have that ability to dream. It may never happen, but we can strive and hope.
Our end game has continuum.
For these youngsters, their aspirations are limited to immediate and restricted finite opportunities. The end game is for life.
Do not pass GO. Stay in the same square. Repeat.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Dec. 27, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
I’m a chips and salsa guy.
I go into a Mexican restaurant and I look forward to ruining the rest of my meal filling up on the chips and salsa that get plopped in front of me.
In fact, I judge the restaurant based on their chips and salsa.
It’s the opening round. First impressions are everything. Usually, the chips and salsa are a pretty good reflection on the rest of the meal-yet-to-come.
The problem is that in most Mexican restaurants in Mexico, you don’t get chips unless it’s a tourist place or you ask for the chips. And, even then, chances are you definitely don’t get the typical big basket.
You get a little bowl. Like a peace offering of chips!
But, there’s still the salsas. And every place worth it’s chili peppers makes their own.
I’m not talking about stuff you pour out’ve a bottle like Tabasco, Cholula, etc. Those are hot sauces, not technically salsas.
That’s for a different column. If the salsa comes out’ve a bottle or jar, move along. Those places don’t last anyway.
I have a rule or two when I hit a new place and try their salsas.
First, just because it looks mild doesn’t mean anything. Conversely, a very tasty benign salsa could appear like Satan’s own brew.
Even at a regular place that you visit often.
Their homemade salsa can change from day-to-day. That’s because the quality and flavor of the ingredients can change.
For example in our restaurant in La Paz, we would make green salsa verde from green tomatillo tomatoes. One day the salsa would be sweet and mild.
The next day, it could be very bitter and we would have to adjust the recipe. That’s because the quality and taste of the tomatoes would change from our delivery guy.
All tomatoes are not created equally. Nor or chilis or onions.
So, as a rule, no matter what the salsa looks like, I put a little dab on the tip of my little finger and taste it. Or on the edge of my plate.
Knowledge is power and better to know up-front before I slather my taco with a sauce that I won’t like or will cause me physical damage!
There are several main salsas to keep an eye-out for. They’re the standards at most any restaurant or taco cart you visit in Mexico.
SALSA FRESCA/ PICO de GALLO– Usually pretty mild and can surely vary from place-to-place. Usually bright red and green.
Typically consists of chopped red tomatoes, onions, salt, cilantro and fresh jalapeno or serrano chilis. This is the universal salsa. Stuff it in a taco. Divebomb it with chips. Spoon it over your huevos rancheros, fish or steak.
SALSA VERDE/ TOMATILLO SAUCE – Made from green tomatillo tomatoes, this can range from tart to sweet and savory. If the tomatoes are first grilled, roasted or boiled, then blended with the other ingredients such as the chilis and onions, you get a bolder full-bodied salsa. In fact, all of the ingredients are sometimes cooked then blended together.
Using uncooked ingredients produces a salsa on the tart side. Not necessarily a bad thing. Just deliciously different.
AGUACATE – This is avocado salsa. My personal favorite.
I can put this on everything in sight. Remember, the “taquitos” they sold at your little league games as a kid and the green sauce that came out’ve a plastic jug? Aguacate is a 5-star creamy upgrade.
It’s got the coolness of avocado blended with cilantro, a bit of lime, salt, onion and garlic contrasted with the serrano peppers. It also has tomatillos in it very often.
Guacamole…another favorite for other reasons…isn’t so creamy and is primarily avocados without the tomatoes and has a thicker consistency.
SALSA ROJA – This is often the signature sauce at any local dining spot. I’ve encountered places that guard “grandma’s recipe” like Colonel Sanders safeguarded his finger-lickin’ good chicken recipe.
The main thing is roasted or boiled chili arbol. It’s got more kick than other salsa chilis and cooking brings out spicy smokey flavors and deep red colors. It’s then blended with the onions, garlic and other ingredients and can be served hot or cold.
This is definitely one you should taste ahead of time before spooning it on your food. Sometimes, a little goes a long way.
Everyone makes their salsas differently and part of the fun of eating in Mexico is sampling all the different types.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Dec. 13, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Christmas time in Baja.
Specifically, here in La Paz where we live and have our businesses.
On so many levels, the air is definitely different this year. And, on so many levels, it’s easier to breathe.
It’s palpable
Practically speaking, masks are pretty much down. Exhale. Inhale. Exhale again. It’s been awhile.
You can probably relate. Feels pretty good not to talk through a piece of cloth. Or trying to figure out what you were saying to me!
I have a hard enough time understanding Spanish or trying to make sure my Spanish was correct. Let alone trying to do it through a mask!
And hey! That’s a smile under there. I was tired of just looking at your eyes!
The pandemic hit Mexico especially hard. It whacked Baja really hard, especially for an economy that depends so heavily on tourism.
Seventy percent of the population lives hand-to-mouth. It’s a cash economy. No one is on anyone’s books.
If you have a job, most get paid in cash or what you can sell. Conversely you pay cash as well.
Cash. No checks. No credit card. No bank account .
What’s in your pocket at the end of the day is how you feed yourself and your family. And back home, that could be a lot of folks living in a small space.
No school. No computers. No Netflix. Beaches closed. Stores closed. Restaurants closed. Curfews enforced. Entire areas completely off-limits.
Sit and stare at the rest of your family for days-on-end.
If you were actually on someone’s payroll and that business closed it’s doors during pandemic, that was just tough luck.
No feel-good stimulus checks. No unemployment checks. It doesn’t work like that in Mexico.
No money . No food . Simple as that.
Last Christmas, there wasn’t a lot of hoo-haaa.
So much lingering uncertainty . Many places and events still closed. Even churches were closed.
Fast forward to Christmas 2021.
This year, most of Mexico is now in the green level. It’s been a long transition from being in the red.
In our city of La Paz, I’ve heard it’s got one of the highest levels of vaccination. Something like 85% of the population has their shots.
Tourists are flocking to Mexico, in general, and Baja, in particular. It’s a quick hop from the U.S. No need to quarantine or prove you’re vaccinated to enter.
The dollar is strong. Mexico wants you. Mexico needs you. There are deals to be had. The world is figuring out Mexico is a good value as well.
The border is “officially” open now. Technically, it’s been closed since early 2020 although it was easy enough to drive across. But, it deterred many visitors from…well…visiting!
So, there’s a reason for optimism in the air.
You can just tell walking around town.
It’s good to see decorations and lights again. It’s good to see people in the stores and restaurants.
There are actually real live people hanging out on the beaches again. Not just police shooing people away or giving out tickets.
Even Mexicans are travelling. It’s OK this year to go see family and friends.
The surest sign of hope and optimism…I saw a wedding and a baptism at our local cathedral.
And that’s the difference. There’s a subtle sense of joy in locals and visitors alike. They’re enjoying themselves! Not looking over their shoulders or over masks.
Yes, people are gathering.
We may have this virus with us for a long time. Things will probably never be like it was, but there’s an actual air of hope.
You can feel it. You can breathe it.
It probably makes the health officials cringe. And government officials cautiously tippie-toe on eggshells hoping the other shoe doesn’t drop on the merriment or economy.
But, for now, it’s a good time to enjoy the smiles.
A good time to appreciate the moment. A time not to be taken for granted. A time to appreciate each other again and how precious simple freedom is to each of us.
It can be fleeting. As we saw only a year ago. Poof…gone!
I’m not talking about political freedom.
It’s even more basic.
The simplicity of walking where we want to walk. Taking a big unhindered breath. Going where you want to go. Shake a hand. Give a hug. Eat dinner with the family.
Hold a child.
This is the precious air you can gratefully breathe this Christmas.
May it wrap and surround you and yours.
Revel in it. Amen.
That’s my story! May you and yours be blessed this holidays and Christmas.
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 5, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
As the owners of our own restaurant in La Paz for over a decade and then living in Baja for almost 30 years, we’ve seen a lot of margaritas made and consumed.
It’s interesting to note that most of the locals won’t touch tequila or margaritas. When I’ve offered it to them at our restaurant, they (perhaps wisely) wag their fingers at me and smile. “No, gracias!”
I think they know better and I also think they enjoy watching the gringos go at it. I mean, if you’re going to Mexico, it’s your “go-to” drink.
Seemingly, as soon as folks walk off the plane, vacation has not started until they have one of those high-priced margaritas served in a plastic cup at the bar just outside the terminal. Am I right?
“Whoo-hooo, Honey! We’re in Mexico. Hot dang!”
I’d estimate that at our restaurant, 95% of the margaritas are ordered by tourists. Personally, I think we make a pretty good margarita.
We cut our own limes. We make our own lime juice (no bottled mix). Our tequila does not come from a plastic jug behind the bar. We cut our own fruits and make our own syrups.
Just like anything else, good fresh ingredients result in a better product.
But, in the spirit of “research and development”, not to mention it’s a great way to actually write-off the cost of drinking margaritas, my wife and I have gone to numerous places to “test drive” margaritas.
Here’s the deal. We go to someplace that’s known for their margaritas and as a tourist destination…Cabo San Lucas…Puerta Vallarta…Maui…San Diego…San Antonio Texas…and others.
All in the name of “research and development,” as mentioned.
We do our own version of a margarita crawl.
The purpose is not get drunk and buzzed. However, I will admit it is sometimes a happy by-product of our in-depth research! We go from bar-to bar at supposedly the places with the best margarita reputation.
We ask for their house margarita.
We take a sip or two. If we don’t like it, we pay for it and walk away without finishing it. Move onto the next place.
And so-forth-and-so on.
Spoiler alert. Here it comes.
It is amazing that some of the places that are known to be great margarita-makers literally serve absolute JUNK! Most places, we honestly can’t finish them.
But tourists don’t know any better.
They buy margaritas the size of birdbaths or chug them with their chips and that’s pretty much the extent of it. Or it’s what happens to be in their hands sitting at the pool bar all afternoon.
Admittedly, there are a few places where Jill and I take a sip and then look at each other. And another sip to make sure. Surprise! OK…not bad at all. There’s some decent stuff out there.
But, again as mentioned before, it starts with the ingredients.
If volume selling to tourists or catering to the “buy-one-get-the-2nd margarita- free” crowd is the intent, the customers aren’t going to be very discriminating.
They have no idea nor do they really care that they’re drinking a mix or that the tequila comes from a jug. It’s got ice. It’s got salt. We are having a large fun time!
“Let’s party, Baby. Afterwards let’s go buy a sombrero and one of those sarape blankets and a hammock to bring back to Montana.”
Honestly, nothing wrong with that. Vacation fun is vacation fun. Good on them! But, you get the idea.
If you really want a better margarita, here’s a few tips.
Yes, it will cost a tad more. So figure that.
For one, ask for real lime juice. Not “Jose’s Fiesta Lime Juice” in a bottle or jug. Get the real stuff if at all possible. It will make a tremendous difference.
Ask what kind of tequila they’re making your margarita with. In fact, ask to see the bottle!
There are 3 kinds of tequilas.
Silver (Plata) is clear. It has not been aged or not more than 2 months.
Resposada is slightly amber. Reposada means “rested” and it has been aged in a barrel up to one year.
Anejo means “old.” This tequila has been sitting for awhile aging for more than a year and is much darker.
The older the tequila, the richer and more full-bodied the taste.
That doesn’t mean it’s the best for tequila.
Personally, we feel that the Silver/ Clear plata tequila is best for mixing cocktails. It’s got a clean flavor that blends nicely with other ingredients.
I like the Reposada and Anejo in a shot glass or snifter. It’s meant to be sipped or I especially like it with a cigar at sunset!
While checking out the bottle, make sure it’s REAL tequila! The real stuff must be from the blue agave plant and, by law, may ONLY be produced in the regions of Jalisco, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas.
I’m not being snobby here.
Good tequila does NOT have to be expensive to make a good margarita. Like wines or beers there are so many great and inexpensive brands.
A fancy bottle does not necessarily mean a good tequila. Conversely a good tequila doesn’t have to be in a fancy bottle either.
However, like most liquors, the more expensive sipping tequilas do taste better and smoother. But, that’s OK because I’m not using the good stuff to do slammers or shots with buddies!
Life’s too short for bad margaritas! So are vacations.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 22, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
No one likes surprises when they travel. Travel can be pretty stressful as it is. Even moreso, travel during the holidays is also high anxiety time.
As luck would have it, I got to fly back to Texas from our home in La Paz to spend Thanksgiving with my wife and family. After not having a day off pretty much since last April, I couldn’t wait to jump on a plane.
As usual, I went to obtain my covid test within 72 hours of my flight.
In case you missed it or haven’t traveled internationally, since January, anyone entering the U.S. on an international flight MUST show a negative Covid test result within 72 hours of the flight.
No biggie.
Quick swab of my schnoz takes a few minutes and results pop up on your cellphone within the hour.
We’ve had hundreds of fishing clients for our Tailhunter Fleet in La Paz over the past season. It’s a little inconvenient, but just part of travelling these days along with so many other protocols we live with.
Everyone gets one then goes happily on their way back to the U.S.
So, I was all set. I had my passport, ticket, and my covid results for travel the next day.
I went to check in online and get my boarding pass and get a notice that curled my toes!
The CDC has implemented NEW RULES as of Nov. 8 for international travelers entering the U.S.
Basically, if you have been vaccinated, you still need to show a negative covid test result within 72 hour of your flight home. The problem is if you have NOT been vaccinated.
I have not been vaccinated. In fact, I’m getting it THIS week in Texas. There was no rush.
I had Covid bad last year. I’ve tested positive for the anti-bodies. I didn’t want to get vaccinated in Mexico. I’ve been there solid for 8 months.
Understandably, I’d much rather get any shots or vaccinations in the U.S. with my own doctors.
Well, the new rule requires that ALL UN-VACCINATED persons MUST show a negative covid test within 24 HOURS of the flight. Further, I had to attest that upon arrival, I would self-quarantine for a few days. Plus, I had to promise that I would get the vaccination within 60 days of arrival.
Yikes!
So, I had to run back to the testing lab in La Paz and get a 2nd negative covid test. I know the staff there and they were surprised that I returned for the 2nd time in 2 days.
They were surprised at the explanation and had no knowledge of the new rules. However, they graciously expedited my results.
The other bump in the road is that the online check-in does not work if you have not been vaccinated. Therefore, instead of TWO hours checking in before your international flight, it requires you check in FOUR hours before your flight to show your paperwork.
My flight was at 11:00 a.m. from Cabo.
Normally, I would arrive about 9 a.m. for a flight like that. Since it’s 3 hours drive from La Paz, that means leaving about 6 a.m. to head to the airport.
With the new regulations, I had to leave at 4 a.m. to get to the airport by 7 a.m.
Grrrrrr….talk about adding stress to a travel day.
Once I was there, it was easy. The folks at the airport were more than helpful and since the early days of the pandemic have tried to alleviate all the confusion and stress.
There are assistants everywhere directing travelers to the correct places or helping with forms and documents. Everyone I’ve ever run into speak English.
I’m glad I got there early, even if it was a pain. I’m glad I knew about the new rules BEFORE I got to the airport or there was a good chance I would have been denied travel.
So, bottom line is this:
If you have not been vaccinated, you must obtain a negative covid test with 24-hours of your flight for anINTERNATIONAL flight.
You must check in at least 4 hours ahead of your flight.
Plan ahead and hopefully, you’ll have a smoother easier travel day.
By the way, after more than a year-and-a-half, the border is now open as long as you can show proof of vaccination.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 24, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
In the several decades that I’ve been writing fishing articles and columns for magazines and newspapers, I don’t think I’ve ever tackled this subject. I don’t know why. Maybe it’s because it’s just something I don’t think about much.
For what we do down here, it’s just not much of an issue.
However, it’s come up several times in the last few weeks with regards to our panga fleet here in La Paz.
One was a legitimate question about bleeding your catch.
Two of them were complaints of sorts from first-time anglers who had never fished in Mexico and had also never fished in a panga.
Let me explain.
The process if “bleeding” a fresh-caught fish can really be beneficial. It’s not that difficult to do, especially after you’ve done it a time or two.
It involves taking a catch just out’ve the water. While the fish is still flapping, quickly cut to it’s heart and the main artery right behind the gills. You let the heart pump out the blood. Easy.
All fish are a bit different, but you can Google up the specifics.
By, the way, I’m all for a quick dispatch of any catch. The quicker you do any of this, the better for the fish rather than let it flip around in a fish box, bucket, ice chest or kill bag.
But, it can be messy. I mean, “all-over-the-deck messy” especially for really dense muscled fish like a tuna or bonito for example.
Therefore, if you can, let the blood pump out while holding the fish over the side, if possible and practical. Or, hold it in or over your bait tank. If you can’t do either of those, at least do it away from everyone else.
And be prepared to clean off the deck rapidly.
Then, get the fish chilled on ice.
The whole idea, as explained to me by a marine biologist many years ago is that when a fish, or anything dies, it immediately begins to decompose. Makes sense. No vital organs are working anymore. Blood, nerves, brain function, etc. are all flat-lined.
Blood left in the fish is also logically decomposing.
By getting rid of the blood, you can really help improve the flavor of the meat by leaving you with cleaner and better tasting fillets.
That’s the theory. And it works!
The reality can sometimes be different which brings me back to the complaints I received this week.
When I worked on big private charter boats, it was relatively easy to bleed-out a fish. I was a deckhand.
Or there were other deckhands. Even if there was a lot of activity on the deck during a bite, usually someone could bleed fish.
Unless it was really crazy.
I’ve worked on party boats and multi-day charter boats and ultimately, you’re dealing with a lot of fishermen. There’s simply too much happening.
A bunch of folks are trying to catch fish. Fish are biting. Lines are all over the place. It’s frantic.
We’re tying hooks; gaffing fish; untangling lines; tossing bait; bagging and tagging fish…and more. It’s full-speed turbo.
There’s hardly time to take one person’s fish and bleed it in the middle of the chaos. It is what it is.
On a panga like we have here in La Paz, sometimes it’s possible to bleed a lone solitary fish. Sure. Let me get right to it.
Here’s the dilemma.
There’s one captain and there 2 or 3 anglers.
The captain is the one-stop, driver; guide; deckhand and navigator. He’s got his hands full. It’s kind of a small, efficient but ultimately croweded working platform.
The fishermen are out there to catch fish. The captain’s job is to facilitate that event.
Bites can happen in a frenzy. Two or three fishermen with bent rods and slinging fish in a small boat is fun and exciting and can be a blur of motion for the captain. However…
If he stops to gaff, cut and bleed a fish…
The whole process comes to a standstill.
He can’t re-rig your lines or the lines of your buddies.
He can’t be baiting hooks.
He can’t be untangling your backlash.
He can’t drive the boat.
Your buddies might be pulling in fish at the same time.
Or losing them.
The fish school could disappear.
It’s a pragmatic issue. The anglers need to weigh taking the time to bleed solo fish versus all the other things that can happen in the interim.
I think most would rather be catching fish than watching the school disappear.
Simple as that!
That’s my story!
Joanthan
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED the WEEK of Oct. 9, 2021 in WESTERN OUTDOOR PUBLICATIONS
I am often asked about renting cars or just driving around Baja in general.
Or there are folks who tell me they are going to make some grand “Banzai” run from the border all the way down to Cabo. They tell me they drive wide open and non-stop like race car drivers.
They ask me for advice.
Having been down here almost 30 years and also having driven the Baja over a dozen times top to bottom and back, I mostly have one rule.
Do not drive at night.
Frankly, it’s dangerous.
When I tell folks that, I see their eyes go wide.
No, it’s not the banditos.
Some cartel is not going to grab you and run away with you.
The legendary chubacabra (vampire bat/dog) is not going to suck your blood and leave you in the desert.
It’s much more simple than that.
You have a great possibility of bumping into something at night in Mexico. Or, even missing something completely!
I don’t care how careful of a driver you are.
Mexican road are notoriously bad. You are probably already on an unfamiliar patch of highway or road.
A foot-deep pothole can suddenly shred a tire or bend an axle. Not to mention shake your dentures.
Also, consider this.
The Mexican road construction guys just LOVE to install speed bumps of all kinds. If one speed bump works let’s install 5 more just for fun!
At one point, in the two miles from my home to my office, there were 36 speed bumps along the way. You’ll hit them at the strangest places placed there for no apparent reason.
Some would give an Abrams battle tank fits. Others are spaced just enough so it’s like driving over a washboard. Others will literally launch your car airborne if you hit it at just the right speed.
Also, driving at night, you put on your headlights, right? Don’t assume other drivers will also have their headlights on. In fact, don’t assume other drivers even have headlights or taillights or brake lights for that matter.
Oh, and if they have headlights, they like to drive at you or pull up behind you with their bright hi-lights on.
Assuming again that you’re on unfamiliar roadway, things aren’t always well marked. Street signs can be non-existent, broken, hidden behind bushes and even hidden behind other signs.
This includes stop signs. Street lights. Street names. Detours. Warnings about potholes and speed bumps coming up…SOON!
Street lights often don’t work or are non-existent.
Therefore, all things considered, you have a great possibility of getting LOST. Or getting a traffic ticket. Remember, you’re in a highly visible rental car or a car with non-Mexican license plates.
I see it happen all the time.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that a lot of folks dress in black at night. I don’t know if it’s a fashion thing, but they’ll dash across a street. Walk through a crosswalk without looking. Jog and bike rider right in the traffic lane too!
Out in the country side, you have a whole other set of things to be concerned about.
Often, there’s debris on the roadway. Rocks. Parts of trees. Trash. Things that have fallen off other trucks or cars. Even on the best highways, there is always that danger.
I’ve seen it all. I’ve hit them all!
Even moreso, the biggest danger is hitting animals.
I’m not talking cats and dogs. Domestic street animals are usually pretty smart.
I have seen wild pigs and deer that occasionally cross a highway.
However, it’s the cows, burros, horses and goats you need to watch out for. Mostly, they are freerange animals left to wander a the countryside by a land owner.
They can be grazing on the side of the road. Often, at night, they will lie on the pavement for warmth. They can suddenly dart out’ve the bushes across the road.
In the middle of the night on a long lonely stretch of desert a herd of goats suddenly were in our headlights as we rounded a corner. We were already half-dazed from a lengthy drive.
Our big pickup with dually-rear tires ripped right into the herd. I would swear that I saw two bodies fly up and over our windshield and cab and our tires rapidly went “bump-bump” over others several several times.
Oops! No way to avoid them.
Even worse, I’ve had friends hit larger animals like a cow, or a burro. Not only is there extensive damage to the vehicle, but on several occasions, the animal is now the ranchers “most prized” and expensive piece of livestock.
Or course, it is.
Even if it was really nothing more than a scrawny range animal wandering the property.
The rancher now wants BIG MONEY.
So, drive in the light. Stay safe. Take your time.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
______________
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 1, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
As I write this, I’m looking out the office window. Hurricane Nora is bearing down on us in southern Baja.
I don’t think it will be too bad. I hope.
I mean, compared to historic Hurricane Odile in 2014 that reached Category 4 status and pretty much scoured our area unlike any other storm in Mexican History, Nora maybe end up being nothing more than a mild inconvenience at Category One.
Only “mild” 90 mph winds. Uh-huh.
Either way, it’s being downgraded so it might not even be that bad. This will be my 16th hurricane since living in Baja almost 3 decades ago. I’ve seen worse.
And right now, the seas are looking pretty angry. The palm trees are getting torqued, but it really doesn’t look that ominous or petulant.
There’s a grey sunshine trying to burn through the clouds. Much like a beach day marine layer in Southern California.
I can see people still bouncing around on the beach in the tidal surge and storm waves. There’s one kooky kayaker out there paddling against the wind. She probably wishes they hadn’t paddled so far out. She looks a bit tired, but she’s inching closer to shore.
Nora is slated to get stronger tonite, but thankfully may dissipate in a day or two without too much yelling and screaming or damage. If that happens, I will consider that we have dodged a bullet.
Storms during this time of the year down here in Baja are not uncommon. I wouldn’t say they are a regular occurrence either. A big one every few years. Then years with nothing. Some years, several small ones.
But they CAN happen.
And they can happen without much notice. If the atmospheric conditions are right…well…
Mostly, it’s just some intermittent rain or a scattered thundershower or two. You wait it out at your favorite dockside bar with a cold one and watch the downpour for a few minutes until the sun pops our again.
Some, however, like Nora are a little more powerful although largely benign.
Right now, it looks ominous enough that it looks like we’ll be cancelling fishing for a few days as port captains in Cabo, La Paz and the East Cape shut down all water traffic.
Beaches are getting pounded with big surf and frankly, it’s pretty snotty on the ocean even if the sun does it’s best to poke out.
So, what do you do if your vacation is suddenly in jeopardy?
Well, if you haven’t left yet, obviously check our flights. If you’re booked with an outfitter or an agency, contact them to get some guidance.
If you’re already down here and it looks like something big might be coming up the pipeline, you’ll have to make decision. Stay or go?
Consider that if you plan to go, so are a lot of other folks trying to book flights to get out before the storm hits. So, don’t dally on your decision.
Flights are already full with regular departures let alone lots of new folks now wanting seats. Seats will be scarce and probably pricey. But, it’s a decision you have to make.
Don’t forget to give yourself plenty of time before your flight. Remember also, that if you haven’t already done so, you’ll need to allow for the extra time to get your covid test at the airport.
If you decide to stay, I”ll be honest. It’s kinda cool to watch the power of nature do its thing.
As long as you are safe!
Stay inside. There could be all kinds of things flying around.
If you drive, sudden flooding can become not only dangerous but fatal as roads and arroyos literally turn into raging rivers, even with a small amount of rain.
Keep your electronics charged. Don’t waste batteries watching tik tok videos or video chatting. You may lose power and you don’t know when you’ll be able to recharge.
Plus, you may need your phone as a flashlight, although I never travel without a little tactical flashlight handy.
Stock up on waters. If you have time, get to the local market and grab some candles and masking tape as well for the windows. I always grab edibles that don’t need refrigeration as well.
Hate to admit it, but junk food works really well. I seem to eat more potato chips and Pringles during storms than any other time. But, not to be total knuckleheaded, we also have cold cuts, bread, energy bars and fruit.
If you have an ice chest, fill it with water. Use it as your back-up water to do things like flush toilets. Oh yea…grab extra toilet paper as well. Goes without saying.
And ask housekeeping to bring you lots of extra towels to keep water from coming under the door or sopping up anything that leaks in.
My wife and I always keep a deck or cards handy too.
The above recommendations are mostly just for the most severe situations.
The majority of time, it will never come to that. You’re gonna get some wind and rain. I cut out a big trash bag for my head and arms and use it as a rain pancho.
Everyone makes it through these things. And they happen without warning sometimes. And they happen during the best times to be down in Baja and Mexico in general. It helps to know what to prepare.
Also, I keep saying it, but purchase trip insurance ahead of time. It’s economic and helps recover the costs of lost charters, hotel nights, activities, plane flights and others.
I’m still here sitting looking out my office window and those clouds are getting darker and the winds are starting to rip a lot harder. Nora is in the house.
Gonna go pop a can of Pringles and a beer.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Aug. 11, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Current affairs here in Mexico…
At one restaurant, we sat down to a dirty table. All the other tables weren’t much better. We had to ask the waitress to wipe the table and she looked put out by the request.
At another restaurant, the waiter literally tossed the menus at us onto the table from about a foot away. Turned and walked away.
We’ve waited at other restaurants that we normally patronize and were left drumming our fingers on the table for meals that should not have taken THAT long. I mean, how long does it take to make two plates of fish tacos?
We’ve had clients tell us they went on some kind of booze cruise or some other kind of tour and find out it was delayed because “not enough crew members” or “they had to find another driver.”
We own several businesses here in Mexico and chatting with some other local business owners I guess we’ve got ourselves a labor shortage going on. Sort of like in the U.S., but somewhat different.
We thought it was just us.
For our restaurant it’s been more difficult than usual.
Can’t find a cook. Not enough waiters. We’re down a driver…again. The vegetable delivery guy quit again. The bakery won’t be bringing burger buns for 4 days because they’re short-handed.
We have advertisements all over social media, newspapers, school bulletin boards and other platforms.
Maybe 20 apply. 15 say they’ll be there for an interview.
Maybe 5 show up. Of those, we give 3 of them contracts.
Of the three…two of them actually show up for their first day of work.
One of the two never shows up.
One of the two quits after 2 days. The other one doesn’t show up after 5 days. No phone call. No notice. Just doesn’t show up.
Or the universal excuse, “I have to quit because my mother is sick in Guadalajara.” You have no idea how many times we’ve gotten something like this. Everyone’s parent gets sick in Guadalajara. Right up there with “My dog ate my homework.”
Other business owners are telling us the same thing.
Can’t find people to work.
But, it’s a bit different than in the U.S. where folks find it more economic to sit on the couch with the remote because they’re getting unemployment checks or stimulus checks.
Mexico doesn’t have that luxury. There’s no enemployment down here. Or stimulus checks.
For many folks you work or you don’t eat. So, why can’t we find workers?
Some of our co-business owners with the same issues told me some of it is simply cultural.
“Like the rest of the world, some people just got used to staying at home. If you can ‘get by’ without working, there’s no need to go to work.”
“Many people live together. Especially younger people. You find ‘youngsters’ in their 20’s and 30’s even with their own kids still living in the same house as mama and dad. No one gets kicked out. If mama will keep cooking and washing clothes, there is not much motivation to leave the house. They are spoiled,” is what one business owner said to me disdainfully.
“Some are just looking for the ‘perfect’ job. They have no particular skill or education, but if a job isn’t ‘perfect’ they do not stay and bounce from one menial job to the other.”
One of my amigos agreed, “Yes, if it seems too much like ‘work,’ they quit!”
By no means does this mean everyone has this work ethic. There are many many good hard workers to be found.
But, they are hard to come by .
Or they in such demand, they get snatched up having their pick of positions. And can also command higher pay.
However, with the pandemic rules changing weekly combined with the shortage of workers, service is inconsistent.
For example, the covid rules might say you’re allowed only 30% occupancy at a restaurant or hotel.
Keep in mind that you lost most of your staff last year when everything shut down so you’ve got almost a completely different staff.
Last year’s staff that you had for years. has moved on.
Then, they allow you to increase to 40% occupancy. You optimistically hire and train more people.
You teach them how to cook; wait tables; clean rooms; work at reception; drive shuttles…and with a smile!
Two weeks later, the government knocks everyone back to 30% occupancy.
Or, you you are not sell alcohol after 5 p.m. Or the beaches get closed again.
That pretty much kills all your evening dinner business. You have empty tables. You have empty hotel rooms. People cancel reservations and trips.
So, now you have to fire all the new people you just hired and trained.
Then, the restrictions change again.
And you just need bodies to work. Whoever you can get. Whoever is willing to work.
No real time to train properly. And no one knows how long that person will be working for you either voluntarily or involuntarily.
So, the guy making tacos, is still learning to fry a tortilla. He can’t remember if the fish plate gets beans on the side or rice. Or has never heard of meat “medium rare.” Cooked mean cooking until it’s done.
The guy making your margarita has never worked in a bar before. He thinks a margarita is tequila mixed with orange juice.
They waitress tells you she’s not sure what’s on the menu. She has actually been fired or quit her last 3 restaurant jobs. But, the restaurant owner was desperate to hire someone
The guy driving your shuttle tosses your luggage in the back and gets lost driving to your hotel. Takes 20 frustrating minutes to go 4 blocks.
That’s not to say they’re not trying. Under the circumstances. Seems like most of them are.
Everyone is just trying to get by. I have to remember to cut folks some slack and remember it’s not just us. Or us.
“Dog ate my homework and my mother is sick in Guadalajara.”
It’s just the times we live in now.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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