Originally Published the Week of March 7, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Whether you’re planning to fly, drive or walk to Baja or any place in Mexico in April, come ahead. For the first time in 2 years, Mexico is basically open and really wants you to come visit. (aka “needs you to visit!”)
Since the pandemic hit in 2020, Mexico implemented a “traffic light” scale to measure the covid restrictions and protocols. Red being the worst. Green was the best.
In between those extremes were a series of various shades of oranges and yellows. Over the pandemic, the scale has bounced back and forth between those variations.
Just like in the U.S. it’s been “masks on.”
Now they are “off.”
Now they are back on.
Same with all the attenuated protocols like social distancing, closures and activities. Back-and-forth. Up-and-down. Enough to make your head spin.
Unless you’ve quarantined in a windowless room the last two years, you know the drill.
However, like many locations in the world, covid and it’s seemingly unnumerable waves, permeations and mutations is declining. Infections, hospitalizations and fatalities thankfully are also down.
According to officials, something like 80-85% of the eligible population has been vaccinated.
So, it’s a virtual green light to go visit Mexico this Easter or spring break. It’s the first time in two years.
Of course, like everywhere else, there’s some trepidation about the anticipated onslaught. With so many people suddenly running around with impunity health officials and politicians have some underwear bunching up.
But, for better or worse, things are open!
Some vestiges of covid might linger. Some private businesses might still require masks. It’s their prerogative. But, otherwise, party like it’s 2019!
But, Mexico has been trying to get ready.
Statistics have shown that Mexico has been the #1 travel destination in the world. Not just Americans, but anyone else who can jump on a plane has looked to Mexico.
It was easy to get in.
Easy to get out (mostly).
Chances of quarantine were minimal.
It’s a great value for a vacation.
The only thing you need to do is get a negative covid test before returning to the U.S. Fingers are crossed that even this may drop to the wayside. We can only hope.
So, if you’re thinking of heading south in April, especially the weeks preceding or following Easter on April 17th, look for it to be crowded.
It won’t just be Americans and international travelers. Especially around beach cities, and Baja in particular, the Easter weeks are the busiest times for Mexican nationals to travel as well.
Many take the time off work to take vacations. Many go to visit family.
So, expect crowds at restaurants, bars, beaches and other gathering places. That includes airports especially. Prime arrival and departure times are expected to be packed.
In addition to everyone flying into Mexico, many Mexicans use the holidays to visit family and friends in the U.S. In fact, it’s the busiest time of the year to try to fly.
Busier than Christmas. Busier than Thanksgiving.
Therefore, give yourself extra time coming and going.
With the demand for travel, airline tickets will often be more expensive than any other time of the year and also more difficult to purchase as popular flights fill up.
That goes for rental cars also.
The rental agencies are over-run. The last two times we tried to rent vehicles in Cabo, we waited as long as two hours to get vehicles that had been reserved months in advance.
Put an extra case of “patience” in your luggage. Mexico is also going through the throes of not being able to find enough employees.
So service at hotels, restaurants and other spots might also be slower than expected. Keep smiling and just cut folks some slack. They’re doing their best.
Plan well. Mexico is waiting!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Feb. 22, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
As many of you know, my wife Jill and I are “on tour” criss-crossing the U.S. from January to March in our rig. These are the months when we’re exhibiting at the fishing and hunting expositions with our booth on behalf of our Tailhunter Fishing Operation in La Paz and generally just trying to be good ambassadors for both the U.S. and Baja.
We’ve been on the road now for 6 weeks. At last count, we’ve been in 11 states.
I can’t begin to tell you every city and town we’ve stopped in. We’ve had shows in Reno, Sacramento, Seattle, Salt Lake City and, most recently in Portland.
So, almost everywhere, there are now mask mandates. Hotels, restaurants, stores, gas station, fast food joints. Signs are pretty much everywhere. I get it.
Some are enforced more than others. Most really aren’t enforced much at all. When we go into a place, we look around. If others have masks on or are giving us “stink eye” (pretty rare) we pull up the shields.
And pull them back down when we are clear.
Just part of life these days.
However, we just finished a huge show in Portland, Oregon.
Now, Portland is pretty strict about their masks. Everyone one is pretty tight about it. Right or wrong, it is what it is. I don’t make the laws or rules.
But, at the 5-day show we attended called the Northwest Sportsmens Expo, some interesting things happened.
First, the city of Portland and the managers of the gigantic Portland Expo Center told the show producers that there would be strict enforcement. All vendors and attendees MUST have masks on all the time.
Whether walking around; in the booths; or in the bathrooms. Cover up!
Or, the City was gonna shut down the show!
Everyone also had to keep social distancing when talking to each other.
So, I heard there were about 500 booths and vendors. Grizzled hunting outfitters from the northern woods and plains of the U.S. and South Africa, Asia and South America. Weathered cowboys running pack operation in the mountains. Former military guys representing gun and archery manufacturers. River guides and bush pilots. Mountain men and charter boat skippers.
And then there were about 10,000 attendees walking through the place and trying to talk to vendors and outfitters.
These aren’t the kinds of folks who seem to be too accustomed to being told how and what to do. It’s a rather self-sufficient and independent crowd.
Get my drift?
So, the first day of the show, we got constant booming announcements over the P.A. about keeping our masks on at all times.
Green-jacketed “mask cops” also walked around telling you to pull up your mask or telling folks to step back from booths so that we were 6 feet away from each other trying to do transactions.
Oh, and they were also taking names and there were threats of citations.
We kinda bristled. When you’re right in the middle of talking to a prospective client and told you gotta step back, its impossible trying to talk to each other from 6 feet away with a mask over your face.
And the ambient noise of several thousand folks also trying to talk and shout at each other through masks doesn’t help.
Being in Mexico most of the time, this was really the first time I’ve been in a “mega event” where masks and other protocols were being enforced.
We all got to be like little school kids seeing what we could get away with.
We’d signal each other when a green-jacketed mask police was coming down the aisle. Or, we’d suddenly grab a drink and pretend we were eating or munching on something.
And we’d smile and wave at the mask police officer!
Quite telling was what happened during the Star Spangled Banner.
Every morning at these expos, the Star Spangled Banner is played just before they open the doors to the public. All of us several hundred vendors and outfitters stop what we are doing.
We all silently face the flag on the wall of the facility with hands and hats over hearts…as it should be! It’s a moving red-white-and-blue moment every morning.
But, one of the first mornings, right in the middle of the solemnity of the flag salute, they broke into the anthem and stopped the music. Over the P.A, they reminded us all in no uncertain terms that we MUST wear our masks.
Simultaneously, the green-jacket mask police walked up and down the aisles. Not even saluting the anthem or the flag they brislkly trotted up and down the aisles taking names and telling vendors to pull up their masks.
There was something really wrong with that. There was a disturbance in the force and a number of other outfitters expressed the same sentiment. It grated on alot of us.
Imagine at a sporting event like a baseball game where they stopped the playing of the national anthem to remind everyone, “Now that we have your attention, we remind everyone to wear their masks or you will be thrown out!” We now return to the music!
As one outfitter later commented, “That was the current state of the U.S. in a nutshell.” Another said, “It felt anti-American.”
Over the next 4 days, I noticed a silent smirking revolt.
None of us wore our masks anymore. Fewer and fewer of the attendees were wearing their masks.
Neener neener to masks. Up yours (with a smile).
The mask police retreated little-by-little. They actually started gently apologizing for asking folks to wear masks. And smiling. I guess they didn’t exactly like their jobs either.
Or they simply began to recognize the futility of it.
When you have several thousand people thumbing their noses at the mandate, what were they going to do?
They eventually gave up. Even some of the mask officers stopped wearing their masks. The last few days of the show, most folks didn’t have masks unless they wanted to wear them.
Laws have no teeth if no one enforces them.
It reminded me of the Greek god Sisyphus who was cursed by the other gods to roll a huge boulder up a hill for all eternity. When he got to the top, the boulder just rolled back down the other side.
Agree or disagree with masks, but it was interesting to watch the transition.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
I’m writing this at night from our hotel room in Boise, Idaho. We’re doing a banzai drive from Salt Lake City to get to Portland, Oregon. As fast as the speed limit will let us.
It seems strange to say that we’re not looking forward to being in Portland.
Let me back up.
For almost 30 years, I spend the better part of 3 months on the road exhibiting at all the huge hunting and fishing expositions across the western U.S. Every week another 4 or 5 day show.
My wife, Jill, and I haul our booth, a million brochures and flyers spreading the good word about fishing and vacationing in Baja. Specifically with our own Tailhunter Sportfishing in La Paz.
Thousands-upon-thousands of attendees wander and socialize with outfitters like ourselves in the fishing, hunting, camping, boating, RV and other outdoor pursuits. Us exhibitors sell our wares.
Each week finds us in different cities like Denver, Phoenix, Bozeman, Seattle, San Diego, Long Beach, Las Vegas even Anchorage, Alaska! Criss-crossing the U.S. up-down-back-and-forth in snow, rain, ice, and sunshine.
We’ve been on the road now almost 6 weeks and have finished shows in Reno, Sacramento, Puyallup (south of Seattle) and this past weekend in Salt Lake City. As previously mentioned, we’re back on the Pacific Coast in Portland this week.
A few weeks back in my column, I had commented about driving through so many cities and states and observing the differing covid-mask protocols or lack thereof. I also wrote about my observations of how everyone was hurting for employees. And how customer services were directly suffering from it.
We really didn’t know what to expect of the shows this year. In short, a crapshoot.
No one knew what the attendance would be like. No one knew how many vendors/ outfitters wouldn’t show-up as a result of covid; the fear of covid; or the local mandates and protocols.
As it turned out, attendance suffered at 3 of the 4 shows. All on the west coast.
Exhibitors were absent as well. Again, this was at all at the west coast shows in California, Washington and, to some degree, the Reno Show.
Masking/ testing/ vax card protocols were in place to greater or lesser degrees. Nothing was standardized
I guess that was to be expected. All these shows had been cancelled last year and it’s going to take awhile for them (and the public) to get back up to speed.
And now, we’re headed to Portland.
We love our Pacific Coast. My wife Jill and I both grew up on the West Coast. But, after our experiences the past month in California, Oregon and Washington, we’re dreading Portland, one of our favorite western cities.
I’ll tell ya why.
There’s been a drastic change. A polar shift. A techtonic social upheaval.
In Sacramento, we stay at a well-know hotel chain. Almost 20 years. Not the 4 Seasons or the Ritz Carlton, but hardly the Econo-Riverside Motel either.
Upon arrival. What a change!
People living in their cars in the parking lot. Broken cars everywhere. People living in boxes on busy public street. Multiple people living in rooms meant for 2. Trash everywhere. Tent camps everywhere. Open sewage/ excrement on sidewalks, planters…opens spaces.
Vagrant folks lining the streets. Stores trashed, littered and empty shelves. Such common things like soap, toothbrushes, laundry detergent, masking tape…all in locked cases!
I asked one store clerk what happened to all the shopping carts and shopping baskets. He said, “They all got stolen.”
The second night, our new Chevy Suburban rig got broken into. Not just busted windows. They tore the whole rear liftgate rendering our rig undriveable. Looks like a crowbar was used. Because nothing could be found inside, the bad guys took it out on the vehicle.
Fortunately, we had emptied the vehicle and nothing was taken. But, the vehicle was disabled.
Because of supply chain issues, parts not available!
Over the next few days, others also got burglarized. Police don’t come out because burglary is so common. And they are under-staffed like everyone else. You file a report online. That’s it.
I had to take Uber to the Expo. My driver said, in his neighborhood they leave their trunks and liftgates unlocked so the thieves don’t break in.
Except one day his neighbor found a guy sleeping in his trunk!
While at the show, several outfitters got their rigs completely stolen. One of our clients came to our booth and said several days earlier, he had been carjacked at gun-point by a guy who was escaping from a murder!
We headed north to Washington. Passing through Oregon (more on that later).
While in Washington State, more of the same. Tent cities scattered everywhere. Again, several of our outfitter friends had their trucks and trailers stolen. This time in broad daylight from “guarded” parking lots.
Friends who are law enforcement officers told us many vehicles are being stolen for the catalytic converters. And, many officers are quitting or taking early retirement leaving the remaining tired officers working overtime.
Oh, and new legislation prevents officers from giving chase. About all they can do is yell “Stop!” Also, if someone steals something less than $750 dollars and says “it’s a necessity”, no prosecution ensues.
We were advised by Washington friends not to go into downtown Seattle, again, one of our favorite cities to visit.
And now everyone-and-their-brother is warning us against Portland now. And saying it’s even worse. Even before the pandemic, the area and hotels around the Portland Expo Center were rife with homeless and property crime was rampant.
Vehicles at the Expo and surrounding areas, were regularly targeted. Our own van was broken into several years ago. Police told us that the thieves love vehicles belonging to the outfitters because they are often loaded with camping gear, fishing gear, electronics, outdoor clothing and yes…firearms.
So, now they tell us it’s even going to be worse. And definitely do NOT go into Portland metro.
Tell you what. Several of us outfitters were standing around. We were somberly discussing the crime these days while on the show tours now. All of them hunting and fishing guides.
I quietly admitted that my wife and I both have our concealed-carry permits and that I always carry a firearm now. There was a little pause among the group.
I thought I was going get some blowback for carrying. Big burley mountain guys and salty fishing captains staring at me.
As it turned out, all of them were carrying. In fact, talking to most of the other vendors in their booths, everyone either had firearms in their booths, on their person, or in their cars.
My wife wouldn’t let us drive this year without a (legal) shotgun hidden in the car.
As one Alaska guide told me, “I carry a big pistol to guard against grizzly bears attacks in the bush. But, I’m even more afraid to walk around the cities. So, of course, I carry. Bears are predictable. Idiot people are not.”
It’s gotten pretty sad. Portland, here we come.
Hope for the best. Prepare for the worst. The new normal.
Update: Just finished the Portland Show. We did NOT go downtown. The area around the Expo Center was tragic. Many of the outfitters and vendors said they would not come back. Someone tried to break into our vehicle 3 times, but the alarm scared them off although we were messaged that someone had tried to open the doors…twice when we just ran into a gas station just to buy some soda for the road. It happened that fast! Several vehicles in the parking lot at the Expo Center were burglarized as well.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
I’ve always loved history. Given a choice, history might be my favorite subject to read or study.
And I really like trivia.
I was researching some info on Mexico’s imports/ exports and came across some really interesting facts about Mexico and World War 2.
WHA??? Mexico in World War 2? The BIG ONE?
Well, actually that was my reaction. Complete surprise.
I mean, when you think of the major combatants of that global conflict, you think of the U.S., England, Italy, Canada, Germany, Japan, Russia. All the main players, right?
And, of course, pretty much the rest of the world from the Philippines to Finland and Algiers to Australia.
Mexico doesn’t exactly come to mind.
And, you probably wouldn’t believe that Mexico was an ally to the United States. That’s not a partnership that generally pops to the forefront of historical discussion.
But, yes, Mexico absolutely stuck one in the eye of the Axis powers.
Even before the U.S. was thrust into the war with the bombing of Pearl Harbor in December of 1941, countries had a strong foreboding of impending conflict.
Fortuitously, Mexico and the U.S. settled the usual border tensions with reciprocal trade agreements whereby Mexico continued to supply raw materials to the United States. Conversely, the U.S. helped stabilize the peso and Mexican economy by-way-of-long term loans as well as military aid for the Mexican military.
When Pearl Harbor was attacked in December 1942, Mexico terminated all relations with the Axis powers. It was one of the first countries to show support for the U.S. It also closed all of it’s ports to Germany thereby securing the Gulf of Mexico for the U.S.
The Mexican people were initially very reluctant and adamant about joining in the armed conflict.
However, that changed several months later in May of 1942. German U-boats torpedoed two Mexican tankers in the Gulf of Mexico.
Hitler was unrepentant about the attacks.
And Mexico took the gloves off.
Mexico declared war on the Axis. It also urged other Latin American countries to follow suit.
Mexico instituted nation military service as well as civil defense. However, it’s main contribution to the war was the continued steady supply of raw materials to the U.S. war effort.
As much as 40% of the raw material for the American war machine came from Mexico.
Moreso, although most other Latin American countries sided with the allies, only Mexico and Brazil sent armed combatants to the front.
At the invitation of the U.S. Mexico put together a special combat team of airmen. The Mexican President Manuel Comacho gathered up more than 300 volunteers including more than 30 hand-picked experienced pilots and the rest veteran groundcrew.
After receiving extensive combat training in Texas and Idaho, the “Aztec Eagles” were dubbed the “201st Fighter Squadron” and attached to the American 58th Fighter Group.
Flying P-47 Thunderbolt Fighter Aircraft, the “Pancho Pistolas” were deployed to the Philippines and flogged more than 1900 hours of flight time and 795 combat sorties. Their bombing runs and attacks were instrumental in helping push the Japanese off the islands of Formosa and Luzon in some of the toughest fighting in the Pacific.
Eight of the pilots were killed. One was shot down. One crashed. Three others ran out’ve fuel over the ocean and lost at sea. Three others died in training.
Their ground crews were also involved in ground combat on several occasions.
According to Wikipedia, “The 201st Mexican Squadron was given credit for putting out of action about 30,000 Japanese troops [4] and the destruction of enemy held-buildings, vehicles, tanks, anti-aircraft guns, machine guns emplacements and ammunition depots.”
After the war, they returned to Mexico to a hero’s welcome. A number of the pilots ended up becoming generals in the Mexican Air Force in later years.
The Aztec Eagle’s squadron remains active today. It is the only military unit from Mexico to engage in combat outside it’s borders.
In addition to the pilots, Mexico contributed in other ways.
Although it was adamant about sending ground trips, Mexico did allow the United States to recruit Mexicans to the American Army. Between 1942 and and 1943 almost 7,000 Mexicans volunteered to fight for the the U.S. In fact, the embassy was so overrun they had to close.
Nevertheless, somewhere estimates of 15,000 to 400,000 Mexican-born troops enlisted. Statistics are not clear. However, almost 2,000 would become casualties.
Many were decorated and four who were awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor during combat in the European and Pacific Theaters of war.
Viva Mexico, Cabrones!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
_____________
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Jan. 26, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Well…check any source and you’ll find that the number one travel destination since covid started is (drumroll)…MEXICO!
This is not just for Americans. It’s apparently the top spot for the whole world.
It’s pretty easy to get to, especially for Americans. There’s lots of flights. Or you can drive or jump a cruise ship.
It’s pretty economic. Foreign currency against the Mexican peso is pretty strong. For Americans, the dollar is huge. It’s 20 pesos to the U.S. dollar. International money goes a lot further than in many other countries.
It’s easy to come home. That’s pretty important. When you’re ready to come home…you come home!
Your chances of getting stranded there are pretty slim because of Covid. Your own country might put the pinch on you, but not Mexico.
In fact, there have been some new changes in Mexican restrictions.
As of this month, Mexico has completely dropped all entry requirements. Gone! Deleted! You are welcomed with open arms.
You can argue whether that is good or bad, but it is what it is. I make no judgements. Don’t kill the messenger.
However, borders are now open. In fact, many would ventur that they were never really closed at all. It was pretty leaky.
You also no longer have to fill out either the paper or digital health-care form to enter Mexico. This was the form asking thing like whether you had been in contact with a Covid person or whether you had Covid.
I always thought it was silly. I mean…who is going to answer “yes” on the way to their vacation? Who wants to get told they have to go in the little back room for secondary questioning when the tour bus to the hotel is waiting outside and your luggage is spinning mindlessly on the carousel?
Additionally, Mexican President Obrador has said he doesn’t plan to ever ask for proof of vaccinations.
But, there’s a small caveat.
Individual states, areas or businesses like restaurants, bars and casinos might ask for your vax card. However, according to sources, it’s just like many places in the U.S. with masks. It only applies if the rule is enforced and no one seems to really enforce it.
In lieu of that, proof of a negative covid test within 48 hours will also work. Jalisco is one of the states that recently implemented the rule about showing a vax card.
So, basically, it’s time travel. Mexico is back to pre-covid 2019 in terms of travel.
As of right now, the only real bump in your travel road is coming BACK to the U.S. or entering the U.S. if you’re a foreign national.
The U.S. requires that within 24 hours of your flight back to the U.S. you need to take a rapid Covid test. And, of course, it has to come back negative.
The test takes 15 minutes and you get your results usually within the hour on your cellphone. The airports all have facilities as do many hotels. Or the hotels will have someone come to the hotel.
There are also a plethora of labs that sprang up all over the place understandably.
This applies whether you are vaccinated or not.
If you are a foreign traveler headed to the U.S., the new rules mandate that you must show proof of vaccination now.
Stay tuned. The picture changes all the time!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Jan. 3, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Back in the day when I lived close to the somewhat remote East Cape area of Baja, I loved getting invited to someone’s house for dinner. It was a special treat.
First and foremost, it sure beat the one-pan meals I would usually cook for myself. The food at these gatherings would be simple, but they were always the best-of-the-best spread they had to offer and tremendously delicious.
I remember barbecued meat or fried fresh fish. Often it was something they had caught or one of their own animals.
I was a grateful beneficiary to the sharing of the largesse.
Of course handmade tortillas, beans and rice and maybe grilled vegetables or fresh cheese! Dang. I secretly always hoped there would be that fresh farm cheese.
Plates and cups never matched. Lots of well-used plastic. The cups seemed to be those indestructible plastic/ acrylic things we all had in our cupboards back in the day. Free with a fill-up of gas (or a steak knife) or were bought from the neighbor’s kid raising money for school.
Somehow, those same cups magically migrated to Mexico!
Silverware was burnished and scratched. No big thing. Lots of paper napkins. No matter.
These folks might not have much, but everything was always spic-and-span and pridefully clean in the home.
It was not only a treat, but an honor to be invited to the family home.
Often, there might be another family or two… or extended family member at the table as well. A few cousins. A tio or tia (uncle or auntie). Maybe some neighbors.
Again, sharing the wealth.
It was typically a pot-luck kind of affair from what I could tell.
Cousin Jose and his family might bring some fresh ceviche. The neighbors ferried over a Tupperware of salsa fresca.
It seemed the uncles would ALWAYS bring beer. Always welcome and they seemed to drink the majority of it!
After dinner there was always talk.
Just fun and interesting conversation and b.s. directly dependent upon the level of beer consumption taking place.
My Spanish at that point wasn’t full-speed, but it was enough to participate and I often became the center of the chit-chat. It was usually something of an enjoyable question-and-answer session.
Parents…well, the moms asked about food and markets and clothes. Dads would talk about fishing or travel.
Politics were big. So were sports. The New York “Yonkeys” and the Los Angeles “Doyers.” Andale!
Recently, I was thinking about some of the great conversations with the kids.
The younger girls would ask about celebrities, fashion and movie stars.
Did I really see movie stars all the time and every day?
What is Hollywood like and tell them about a shopping mall.
The boys naturally wanted to know about American cars. American music. Of course…American girls.
Remember, these were the days before the internet was rampant and everyone had a cell phone. Often folks didn’t even have TV’s back then out there.
I was sort of the welcomed travelling bard. Folks were anxious to hear what was going on “out there.” Tell us some news. Tell us a story.
With the kids…
Often, we’d get into the typical, “What do you want to do when you get older?”
At the time, it was just fun conversation, but looking back, the responses were really eye-opening.
American kids talk …doctors…lawyers…executives…business owners…teachers…travel…own a ranch…own a sportscar…be a firefighter…engineer…computers…be a rockstar…attend a great university…be a pilot…marry a rich doctor…lawyer…blah blah blah!
For these, mostly rural Mexican kids, the bar wasn’t quite so high.
Most wouldn’t get past the mandatory 6th grade. So, like all kids, many were eager to “get outta school” to go to work.
Not so much to be independent like American kids…move out…have a car…get an apartment.
These Mexican kids were eager to work so they could help the family.
The aspirations weren’t so lofty.
“I will help my father catch fish for the market.”
“I will go to work at the farm picking vegetables.”
“I would like to move to the city. Maybe work at a restaurant or a hotel. Maybe clean rooms or wash dishes. I can stay with relatives.”
“I have a boyfriend and we will get married and have kids. He has a good job driving a truck for the market.”
The ambitions were much more tempered. Perhaps much more pragmatic in the big picture.
The big difference is that these are somewhat the kind of jobs American kids might do “on their way” to do something else. Like while they are in school.
Or a summer job.
Or for some pocket money.
For these Mexican kids, they are not jobs before they move onto something else. These are their CAREERS.
This is what they will most likely do for the rest of their working lives.
Forty or fifty years from now, it’s very likely, many will still be washing dishes or cleaning someone’s hotel room. Some will still be trying to catch enough fish to sell to the market and feed the family.
That fruit or vegetable farm still needs laborers.
That girl wanting to be married has raised another generation herself.
These “occupations” are the end game. There is no “glass ceiling” because there is no glass. That solid ceiling they see is the height of ambition and opportunity.
I’m trying to imagine some of the summer or school jobs I took in younger days. Could I have worked in a warehouse the rest of my life? Or driven a taxi? Or sold vacuum cleaners door-to-door?
Nothing wrong with good honest labor.
For Americans, we have the ability to envision better things. We can hope that around the corner our ship will come in. We have that ability to dream. It may never happen, but we can strive and hope.
Our end game has continuum.
For these youngsters, their aspirations are limited to immediate and restricted finite opportunities. The end game is for life.
Do not pass GO. Stay in the same square. Repeat.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 5, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
As the owners of our own restaurant in La Paz for over a decade and then living in Baja for almost 30 years, we’ve seen a lot of margaritas made and consumed.
It’s interesting to note that most of the locals won’t touch tequila or margaritas. When I’ve offered it to them at our restaurant, they (perhaps wisely) wag their fingers at me and smile. “No, gracias!”
I think they know better and I also think they enjoy watching the gringos go at it. I mean, if you’re going to Mexico, it’s your “go-to” drink.
Seemingly, as soon as folks walk off the plane, vacation has not started until they have one of those high-priced margaritas served in a plastic cup at the bar just outside the terminal. Am I right?
“Whoo-hooo, Honey! We’re in Mexico. Hot dang!”
I’d estimate that at our restaurant, 95% of the margaritas are ordered by tourists. Personally, I think we make a pretty good margarita.
We cut our own limes. We make our own lime juice (no bottled mix). Our tequila does not come from a plastic jug behind the bar. We cut our own fruits and make our own syrups.
Just like anything else, good fresh ingredients result in a better product.
But, in the spirit of “research and development”, not to mention it’s a great way to actually write-off the cost of drinking margaritas, my wife and I have gone to numerous places to “test drive” margaritas.
Here’s the deal. We go to someplace that’s known for their margaritas and as a tourist destination…Cabo San Lucas…Puerta Vallarta…Maui…San Diego…San Antonio Texas…and others.
All in the name of “research and development,” as mentioned.
We do our own version of a margarita crawl.
The purpose is not get drunk and buzzed. However, I will admit it is sometimes a happy by-product of our in-depth research! We go from bar-to bar at supposedly the places with the best margarita reputation.
We ask for their house margarita.
We take a sip or two. If we don’t like it, we pay for it and walk away without finishing it. Move onto the next place.
And so-forth-and-so on.
Spoiler alert. Here it comes.
It is amazing that some of the places that are known to be great margarita-makers literally serve absolute JUNK! Most places, we honestly can’t finish them.
But tourists don’t know any better.
They buy margaritas the size of birdbaths or chug them with their chips and that’s pretty much the extent of it. Or it’s what happens to be in their hands sitting at the pool bar all afternoon.
Admittedly, there are a few places where Jill and I take a sip and then look at each other. And another sip to make sure. Surprise! OK…not bad at all. There’s some decent stuff out there.
But, again as mentioned before, it starts with the ingredients.
If volume selling to tourists or catering to the “buy-one-get-the-2nd margarita- free” crowd is the intent, the customers aren’t going to be very discriminating.
They have no idea nor do they really care that they’re drinking a mix or that the tequila comes from a jug. It’s got ice. It’s got salt. We are having a large fun time!
“Let’s party, Baby. Afterwards let’s go buy a sombrero and one of those sarape blankets and a hammock to bring back to Montana.”
Honestly, nothing wrong with that. Vacation fun is vacation fun. Good on them! But, you get the idea.
If you really want a better margarita, here’s a few tips.
Yes, it will cost a tad more. So figure that.
For one, ask for real lime juice. Not “Jose’s Fiesta Lime Juice” in a bottle or jug. Get the real stuff if at all possible. It will make a tremendous difference.
Ask what kind of tequila they’re making your margarita with. In fact, ask to see the bottle!
There are 3 kinds of tequilas.
Silver (Plata) is clear. It has not been aged or not more than 2 months.
Resposada is slightly amber. Reposada means “rested” and it has been aged in a barrel up to one year.
Anejo means “old.” This tequila has been sitting for awhile aging for more than a year and is much darker.
The older the tequila, the richer and more full-bodied the taste.
That doesn’t mean it’s the best for tequila.
Personally, we feel that the Silver/ Clear plata tequila is best for mixing cocktails. It’s got a clean flavor that blends nicely with other ingredients.
I like the Reposada and Anejo in a shot glass or snifter. It’s meant to be sipped or I especially like it with a cigar at sunset!
While checking out the bottle, make sure it’s REAL tequila! The real stuff must be from the blue agave plant and, by law, may ONLY be produced in the regions of Jalisco, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas.
I’m not being snobby here.
Good tequila does NOT have to be expensive to make a good margarita. Like wines or beers there are so many great and inexpensive brands.
A fancy bottle does not necessarily mean a good tequila. Conversely a good tequila doesn’t have to be in a fancy bottle either.
However, like most liquors, the more expensive sipping tequilas do taste better and smoother. But, that’s OK because I’m not using the good stuff to do slammers or shots with buddies!
Life’s too short for bad margaritas! So are vacations.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 9, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
For years, I’ve been telling folks about the Cross Border Express bridge (CBX) at the border for flying to Mexican destinations from Tijuana.
Mexico has a brand spanking-new air terminal now in Tijuana that’s as nice as many and perhaps nicer than many in the U.S. Indeed, Tijuana is quite a hub for air travel.
Many Americans over the years, especially from Southern California, Nevada, Arizona and even Utah found it much easier to cross the border and fly from Tijuana to places in Baja like Loreto, Cabo and La Paz and other locations in Cancun, Puerto Vallarta and others.
For one, it’s often much less expensive. From Tijuana, domestic flight instead of an international flight. Statistics show, it’s as much as 50% cheaper flying to Mexican destinations than from U.S. airports.
Lately, it’s been especially conducive with Covid since international travelers returning to the U.S. must obtain negative Covid tests before their flights. Domestic flights do not have that requirement.
However, back in the day, flying from Tijuana required actually crossing the border by driving, a shuttle, a bus or taxi. Or a generous understanding friend or family member.
It required navigating the maze of Tijuana streets and traffic to get to the terminal. Plus, it included the added anxiety and potential delays of just getting through the border check-point.
Those are huge deterrents to travel, especially for folks who don’t like the idea of driving through or into Mexico in the first place. Additionally, there’s the sheer nervousness and likelihood of getting lost on a Tijuana border street.
Not to mention, your Spanish is limited to ordering chalupas at Taco Bell.
Oh, and you have a plane to catch.
I’ve known many folks who missed a turn or two and ended up back on the U.S. side or got lost miles away from the terminal. Miss a turn, miss your plane!
To that end and with rare foresight, the CBX bridge was built several years ago. I’ve been touting it for years. Clients and friends rave about it.
Essentially, it allows travelers to park on the U.S. side of the border. Or shuttle/ taxi there. You then simply walk across the bridge right into the Tijuana terminal. No fuss. No bunched underwear getting lost.
It’s a game changer!
But, I had never taken it myself. It’s like telling someone how good Italian food is, but never having eaten it yourself.
So, this past week, I had the opportunity to go to San Diego for a few days with Jill, my wife. She remained, but I had to get back to our home and business in La Paz.
Booking was easy on Volaris Airlines. It’s a newer and increasing popular airline choice for Mexican air travel. It was $85 for a less-than-two-hour-flight to La Paz and the jet was completely full. About 1/3 were gringos.
She also booked me my ticket to use the CBX. Easy online for $16.
Dropping me off at the curb in the early morning hour to catch my flight, I was greatly surprised.
I mean, I expected a BRIDGE. Y’know…like a big span or girders or something.
On the contrary, it was like being dropped at a regular modern airline terminal. The CBX is, in fact, more like a giant causeway than an actual bridge.
Architecturally, rather beautiful.
I walked right up to an uncrowded airline counter and checked in. I could have opted for automated mini-kiosks as well.
I then walked over to an immigration counter to digitally fill out and print my immigration forms. Everything was computerized. There were helpful staff assisting folks.
Again, very easy. And off I went.
Through the gates and down several well-lit modern corridors. Signs and arrows were easy to follow.
I did one stop for them to take my temperature for Covid. Another short stop to have my luggage x-rayed. A short walk to another Volaris counter where I dropped off my luggage (There are carts available, but I was travelling light).
Another short walk and bam…I was in the new terminal. Starbucks…Johnny Rocket’s Burgers…convenience stores…cosmetics…clothes…a few sports bars.
And easy-to-find -boarding gates.
I had something to eat for breakfast and made my flight with plenty of time to spare. It was a no- brainer and could not have been easier.
The entire walk was maybe 100 total yards. Much easier than driving through the border and all over Tijuana.
I traveled light this time, but there are carts, luggage porters and wheelchairs if they had been needed.
For sure, two thumbs up 5-star rating in my book.
A couple of notes:
You can also park your vehicle in secure parking on the U.S. side. It’s a big bonus.
It’s as little as $18/day. In fact, you can reserve parking ahead of time online. Cost is about $25/day and guarantees parking even if the other lots are full. There is also valet parking.
If you’re coming the other way, car rentals are also available as are shuttle services from cities like Los Angeles and San Diego and cities in between all the way up to Sacramento. Plus Uber and Lyft.
There are discounts for families travelling together plus luggage porters and wheelchair assistance. There is assistance for minors travelling alone. You will also find scales, currency exchange counters as well as duty free shopping.
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 24, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
In the several decades that I’ve been writing fishing articles and columns for magazines and newspapers, I don’t think I’ve ever tackled this subject. I don’t know why. Maybe it’s because it’s just something I don’t think about much.
For what we do down here, it’s just not much of an issue.
However, it’s come up several times in the last few weeks with regards to our panga fleet here in La Paz.
One was a legitimate question about bleeding your catch.
Two of them were complaints of sorts from first-time anglers who had never fished in Mexico and had also never fished in a panga.
Let me explain.
The process if “bleeding” a fresh-caught fish can really be beneficial. It’s not that difficult to do, especially after you’ve done it a time or two.
It involves taking a catch just out’ve the water. While the fish is still flapping, quickly cut to it’s heart and the main artery right behind the gills. You let the heart pump out the blood. Easy.
All fish are a bit different, but you can Google up the specifics.
By, the way, I’m all for a quick dispatch of any catch. The quicker you do any of this, the better for the fish rather than let it flip around in a fish box, bucket, ice chest or kill bag.
But, it can be messy. I mean, “all-over-the-deck messy” especially for really dense muscled fish like a tuna or bonito for example.
Therefore, if you can, let the blood pump out while holding the fish over the side, if possible and practical. Or, hold it in or over your bait tank. If you can’t do either of those, at least do it away from everyone else.
And be prepared to clean off the deck rapidly.
Then, get the fish chilled on ice.
The whole idea, as explained to me by a marine biologist many years ago is that when a fish, or anything dies, it immediately begins to decompose. Makes sense. No vital organs are working anymore. Blood, nerves, brain function, etc. are all flat-lined.
Blood left in the fish is also logically decomposing.
By getting rid of the blood, you can really help improve the flavor of the meat by leaving you with cleaner and better tasting fillets.
That’s the theory. And it works!
The reality can sometimes be different which brings me back to the complaints I received this week.
When I worked on big private charter boats, it was relatively easy to bleed-out a fish. I was a deckhand.
Or there were other deckhands. Even if there was a lot of activity on the deck during a bite, usually someone could bleed fish.
Unless it was really crazy.
I’ve worked on party boats and multi-day charter boats and ultimately, you’re dealing with a lot of fishermen. There’s simply too much happening.
A bunch of folks are trying to catch fish. Fish are biting. Lines are all over the place. It’s frantic.
We’re tying hooks; gaffing fish; untangling lines; tossing bait; bagging and tagging fish…and more. It’s full-speed turbo.
There’s hardly time to take one person’s fish and bleed it in the middle of the chaos. It is what it is.
On a panga like we have here in La Paz, sometimes it’s possible to bleed a lone solitary fish. Sure. Let me get right to it.
Here’s the dilemma.
There’s one captain and there 2 or 3 anglers.
The captain is the one-stop, driver; guide; deckhand and navigator. He’s got his hands full. It’s kind of a small, efficient but ultimately croweded working platform.
The fishermen are out there to catch fish. The captain’s job is to facilitate that event.
Bites can happen in a frenzy. Two or three fishermen with bent rods and slinging fish in a small boat is fun and exciting and can be a blur of motion for the captain. However…
If he stops to gaff, cut and bleed a fish…
The whole process comes to a standstill.
He can’t re-rig your lines or the lines of your buddies.
He can’t be baiting hooks.
He can’t be untangling your backlash.
He can’t drive the boat.
Your buddies might be pulling in fish at the same time.
Or losing them.
The fish school could disappear.
It’s a pragmatic issue. The anglers need to weigh taking the time to bleed solo fish versus all the other things that can happen in the interim.
I think most would rather be catching fish than watching the school disappear.
Simple as that!
That’s my story!
Joanthan
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED the WEEK of Oct. 9, 2021 in WESTERN OUTDOOR PUBLICATIONS
I am often asked about renting cars or just driving around Baja in general.
Or there are folks who tell me they are going to make some grand “Banzai” run from the border all the way down to Cabo. They tell me they drive wide open and non-stop like race car drivers.
They ask me for advice.
Having been down here almost 30 years and also having driven the Baja over a dozen times top to bottom and back, I mostly have one rule.
Do not drive at night.
Frankly, it’s dangerous.
When I tell folks that, I see their eyes go wide.
No, it’s not the banditos.
Some cartel is not going to grab you and run away with you.
The legendary chubacabra (vampire bat/dog) is not going to suck your blood and leave you in the desert.
It’s much more simple than that.
You have a great possibility of bumping into something at night in Mexico. Or, even missing something completely!
I don’t care how careful of a driver you are.
Mexican road are notoriously bad. You are probably already on an unfamiliar patch of highway or road.
A foot-deep pothole can suddenly shred a tire or bend an axle. Not to mention shake your dentures.
Also, consider this.
The Mexican road construction guys just LOVE to install speed bumps of all kinds. If one speed bump works let’s install 5 more just for fun!
At one point, in the two miles from my home to my office, there were 36 speed bumps along the way. You’ll hit them at the strangest places placed there for no apparent reason.
Some would give an Abrams battle tank fits. Others are spaced just enough so it’s like driving over a washboard. Others will literally launch your car airborne if you hit it at just the right speed.
Also, driving at night, you put on your headlights, right? Don’t assume other drivers will also have their headlights on. In fact, don’t assume other drivers even have headlights or taillights or brake lights for that matter.
Oh, and if they have headlights, they like to drive at you or pull up behind you with their bright hi-lights on.
Assuming again that you’re on unfamiliar roadway, things aren’t always well marked. Street signs can be non-existent, broken, hidden behind bushes and even hidden behind other signs.
This includes stop signs. Street lights. Street names. Detours. Warnings about potholes and speed bumps coming up…SOON!
Street lights often don’t work or are non-existent.
Therefore, all things considered, you have a great possibility of getting LOST. Or getting a traffic ticket. Remember, you’re in a highly visible rental car or a car with non-Mexican license plates.
I see it happen all the time.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that a lot of folks dress in black at night. I don’t know if it’s a fashion thing, but they’ll dash across a street. Walk through a crosswalk without looking. Jog and bike rider right in the traffic lane too!
Out in the country side, you have a whole other set of things to be concerned about.
Often, there’s debris on the roadway. Rocks. Parts of trees. Trash. Things that have fallen off other trucks or cars. Even on the best highways, there is always that danger.
I’ve seen it all. I’ve hit them all!
Even moreso, the biggest danger is hitting animals.
I’m not talking cats and dogs. Domestic street animals are usually pretty smart.
I have seen wild pigs and deer that occasionally cross a highway.
However, it’s the cows, burros, horses and goats you need to watch out for. Mostly, they are freerange animals left to wander a the countryside by a land owner.
They can be grazing on the side of the road. Often, at night, they will lie on the pavement for warmth. They can suddenly dart out’ve the bushes across the road.
In the middle of the night on a long lonely stretch of desert a herd of goats suddenly were in our headlights as we rounded a corner. We were already half-dazed from a lengthy drive.
Our big pickup with dually-rear tires ripped right into the herd. I would swear that I saw two bodies fly up and over our windshield and cab and our tires rapidly went “bump-bump” over others several several times.
Oops! No way to avoid them.
Even worse, I’ve had friends hit larger animals like a cow, or a burro. Not only is there extensive damage to the vehicle, but on several occasions, the animal is now the ranchers “most prized” and expensive piece of livestock.
Or course, it is.
Even if it was really nothing more than a scrawny range animal wandering the property.
The rancher now wants BIG MONEY.
So, drive in the light. Stay safe. Take your time.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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His articles also appear in:
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That's My Story 