Originally Published the Week of March 7, 2022 in Western Outdoor Publications
Whether you’re planning to fly, drive or walk to Baja or any place in Mexico in April, come ahead. For the first time in 2 years, Mexico is basically open and really wants you to come visit. (aka “needs you to visit!”)
Since the pandemic hit in 2020, Mexico implemented a “traffic light” scale to measure the covid restrictions and protocols. Red being the worst. Green was the best.
In between those extremes were a series of various shades of oranges and yellows. Over the pandemic, the scale has bounced back and forth between those variations.
Just like in the U.S. it’s been “masks on.”
Now they are “off.”
Now they are back on.
Same with all the attenuated protocols like social distancing, closures and activities. Back-and-forth. Up-and-down. Enough to make your head spin.
Unless you’ve quarantined in a windowless room the last two years, you know the drill.
However, like many locations in the world, covid and it’s seemingly unnumerable waves, permeations and mutations is declining. Infections, hospitalizations and fatalities thankfully are also down.
According to officials, something like 80-85% of the eligible population has been vaccinated.
So, it’s a virtual green light to go visit Mexico this Easter or spring break. It’s the first time in two years.
Of course, like everywhere else, there’s some trepidation about the anticipated onslaught. With so many people suddenly running around with impunity health officials and politicians have some underwear bunching up.
But, for better or worse, things are open!
Some vestiges of covid might linger. Some private businesses might still require masks. It’s their prerogative. But, otherwise, party like it’s 2019!
But, Mexico has been trying to get ready.
Statistics have shown that Mexico has been the #1 travel destination in the world. Not just Americans, but anyone else who can jump on a plane has looked to Mexico.
It was easy to get in.
Easy to get out (mostly).
Chances of quarantine were minimal.
It’s a great value for a vacation.
The only thing you need to do is get a negative covid test before returning to the U.S. Fingers are crossed that even this may drop to the wayside. We can only hope.
So, if you’re thinking of heading south in April, especially the weeks preceding or following Easter on April 17th, look for it to be crowded.
It won’t just be Americans and international travelers. Especially around beach cities, and Baja in particular, the Easter weeks are the busiest times for Mexican nationals to travel as well.
Many take the time off work to take vacations. Many go to visit family.
So, expect crowds at restaurants, bars, beaches and other gathering places. That includes airports especially. Prime arrival and departure times are expected to be packed.
In addition to everyone flying into Mexico, many Mexicans use the holidays to visit family and friends in the U.S. In fact, it’s the busiest time of the year to try to fly.
Busier than Christmas. Busier than Thanksgiving.
Therefore, give yourself extra time coming and going.
With the demand for travel, airline tickets will often be more expensive than any other time of the year and also more difficult to purchase as popular flights fill up.
That goes for rental cars also.
The rental agencies are over-run. The last two times we tried to rent vehicles in Cabo, we waited as long as two hours to get vehicles that had been reserved months in advance.
Put an extra case of “patience” in your luggage. Mexico is also going through the throes of not being able to find enough employees.
So service at hotels, restaurants and other spots might also be slower than expected. Keep smiling and just cut folks some slack. They’re doing their best.
Plan well. Mexico is waiting!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
I’m writing this at night from our hotel room in Boise, Idaho. We’re doing a banzai drive from Salt Lake City to get to Portland, Oregon. As fast as the speed limit will let us.
It seems strange to say that we’re not looking forward to being in Portland.
Let me back up.
For almost 30 years, I spend the better part of 3 months on the road exhibiting at all the huge hunting and fishing expositions across the western U.S. Every week another 4 or 5 day show.
My wife, Jill, and I haul our booth, a million brochures and flyers spreading the good word about fishing and vacationing in Baja. Specifically with our own Tailhunter Sportfishing in La Paz.
Thousands-upon-thousands of attendees wander and socialize with outfitters like ourselves in the fishing, hunting, camping, boating, RV and other outdoor pursuits. Us exhibitors sell our wares.
Each week finds us in different cities like Denver, Phoenix, Bozeman, Seattle, San Diego, Long Beach, Las Vegas even Anchorage, Alaska! Criss-crossing the U.S. up-down-back-and-forth in snow, rain, ice, and sunshine.
We’ve been on the road now almost 6 weeks and have finished shows in Reno, Sacramento, Puyallup (south of Seattle) and this past weekend in Salt Lake City. As previously mentioned, we’re back on the Pacific Coast in Portland this week.
A few weeks back in my column, I had commented about driving through so many cities and states and observing the differing covid-mask protocols or lack thereof. I also wrote about my observations of how everyone was hurting for employees. And how customer services were directly suffering from it.
We really didn’t know what to expect of the shows this year. In short, a crapshoot.
No one knew what the attendance would be like. No one knew how many vendors/ outfitters wouldn’t show-up as a result of covid; the fear of covid; or the local mandates and protocols.
As it turned out, attendance suffered at 3 of the 4 shows. All on the west coast.
Exhibitors were absent as well. Again, this was at all at the west coast shows in California, Washington and, to some degree, the Reno Show.
Masking/ testing/ vax card protocols were in place to greater or lesser degrees. Nothing was standardized
I guess that was to be expected. All these shows had been cancelled last year and it’s going to take awhile for them (and the public) to get back up to speed.
And now, we’re headed to Portland.
We love our Pacific Coast. My wife Jill and I both grew up on the West Coast. But, after our experiences the past month in California, Oregon and Washington, we’re dreading Portland, one of our favorite western cities.
I’ll tell ya why.
There’s been a drastic change. A polar shift. A techtonic social upheaval.
In Sacramento, we stay at a well-know hotel chain. Almost 20 years. Not the 4 Seasons or the Ritz Carlton, but hardly the Econo-Riverside Motel either.
Upon arrival. What a change!
People living in their cars in the parking lot. Broken cars everywhere. People living in boxes on busy public street. Multiple people living in rooms meant for 2. Trash everywhere. Tent camps everywhere. Open sewage/ excrement on sidewalks, planters…opens spaces.
Vagrant folks lining the streets. Stores trashed, littered and empty shelves. Such common things like soap, toothbrushes, laundry detergent, masking tape…all in locked cases!
I asked one store clerk what happened to all the shopping carts and shopping baskets. He said, “They all got stolen.”
The second night, our new Chevy Suburban rig got broken into. Not just busted windows. They tore the whole rear liftgate rendering our rig undriveable. Looks like a crowbar was used. Because nothing could be found inside, the bad guys took it out on the vehicle.
Fortunately, we had emptied the vehicle and nothing was taken. But, the vehicle was disabled.
Because of supply chain issues, parts not available!
Over the next few days, others also got burglarized. Police don’t come out because burglary is so common. And they are under-staffed like everyone else. You file a report online. That’s it.
I had to take Uber to the Expo. My driver said, in his neighborhood they leave their trunks and liftgates unlocked so the thieves don’t break in.
Except one day his neighbor found a guy sleeping in his trunk!
While at the show, several outfitters got their rigs completely stolen. One of our clients came to our booth and said several days earlier, he had been carjacked at gun-point by a guy who was escaping from a murder!
We headed north to Washington. Passing through Oregon (more on that later).
While in Washington State, more of the same. Tent cities scattered everywhere. Again, several of our outfitter friends had their trucks and trailers stolen. This time in broad daylight from “guarded” parking lots.
Friends who are law enforcement officers told us many vehicles are being stolen for the catalytic converters. And, many officers are quitting or taking early retirement leaving the remaining tired officers working overtime.
Oh, and new legislation prevents officers from giving chase. About all they can do is yell “Stop!” Also, if someone steals something less than $750 dollars and says “it’s a necessity”, no prosecution ensues.
We were advised by Washington friends not to go into downtown Seattle, again, one of our favorite cities to visit.
And now everyone-and-their-brother is warning us against Portland now. And saying it’s even worse. Even before the pandemic, the area and hotels around the Portland Expo Center were rife with homeless and property crime was rampant.
Vehicles at the Expo and surrounding areas, were regularly targeted. Our own van was broken into several years ago. Police told us that the thieves love vehicles belonging to the outfitters because they are often loaded with camping gear, fishing gear, electronics, outdoor clothing and yes…firearms.
So, now they tell us it’s even going to be worse. And definitely do NOT go into Portland metro.
Tell you what. Several of us outfitters were standing around. We were somberly discussing the crime these days while on the show tours now. All of them hunting and fishing guides.
I quietly admitted that my wife and I both have our concealed-carry permits and that I always carry a firearm now. There was a little pause among the group.
I thought I was going get some blowback for carrying. Big burley mountain guys and salty fishing captains staring at me.
As it turned out, all of them were carrying. In fact, talking to most of the other vendors in their booths, everyone either had firearms in their booths, on their person, or in their cars.
My wife wouldn’t let us drive this year without a (legal) shotgun hidden in the car.
As one Alaska guide told me, “I carry a big pistol to guard against grizzly bears attacks in the bush. But, I’m even more afraid to walk around the cities. So, of course, I carry. Bears are predictable. Idiot people are not.”
It’s gotten pretty sad. Portland, here we come.
Hope for the best. Prepare for the worst. The new normal.
Update: Just finished the Portland Show. We did NOT go downtown. The area around the Expo Center was tragic. Many of the outfitters and vendors said they would not come back. Someone tried to break into our vehicle 3 times, but the alarm scared them off although we were messaged that someone had tried to open the doors…twice when we just ran into a gas station just to buy some soda for the road. It happened that fast! Several vehicles in the parking lot at the Expo Center were burglarized as well.
That’s my story
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Dec. 27, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
I’m a chips and salsa guy.
I go into a Mexican restaurant and I look forward to ruining the rest of my meal filling up on the chips and salsa that get plopped in front of me.
In fact, I judge the restaurant based on their chips and salsa.
It’s the opening round. First impressions are everything. Usually, the chips and salsa are a pretty good reflection on the rest of the meal-yet-to-come.
The problem is that in most Mexican restaurants in Mexico, you don’t get chips unless it’s a tourist place or you ask for the chips. And, even then, chances are you definitely don’t get the typical big basket.
You get a little bowl. Like a peace offering of chips!
But, there’s still the salsas. And every place worth it’s chili peppers makes their own.
I’m not talking about stuff you pour out’ve a bottle like Tabasco, Cholula, etc. Those are hot sauces, not technically salsas.
That’s for a different column. If the salsa comes out’ve a bottle or jar, move along. Those places don’t last anyway.
I have a rule or two when I hit a new place and try their salsas.
First, just because it looks mild doesn’t mean anything. Conversely, a very tasty benign salsa could appear like Satan’s own brew.
Even at a regular place that you visit often.
Their homemade salsa can change from day-to-day. That’s because the quality and flavor of the ingredients can change.
For example in our restaurant in La Paz, we would make green salsa verde from green tomatillo tomatoes. One day the salsa would be sweet and mild.
The next day, it could be very bitter and we would have to adjust the recipe. That’s because the quality and taste of the tomatoes would change from our delivery guy.
All tomatoes are not created equally. Nor or chilis or onions.
So, as a rule, no matter what the salsa looks like, I put a little dab on the tip of my little finger and taste it. Or on the edge of my plate.
Knowledge is power and better to know up-front before I slather my taco with a sauce that I won’t like or will cause me physical damage!
There are several main salsas to keep an eye-out for. They’re the standards at most any restaurant or taco cart you visit in Mexico.
SALSA FRESCA/ PICO de GALLO– Usually pretty mild and can surely vary from place-to-place. Usually bright red and green.
Typically consists of chopped red tomatoes, onions, salt, cilantro and fresh jalapeno or serrano chilis. This is the universal salsa. Stuff it in a taco. Divebomb it with chips. Spoon it over your huevos rancheros, fish or steak.
SALSA VERDE/ TOMATILLO SAUCE – Made from green tomatillo tomatoes, this can range from tart to sweet and savory. If the tomatoes are first grilled, roasted or boiled, then blended with the other ingredients such as the chilis and onions, you get a bolder full-bodied salsa. In fact, all of the ingredients are sometimes cooked then blended together.
Using uncooked ingredients produces a salsa on the tart side. Not necessarily a bad thing. Just deliciously different.
AGUACATE – This is avocado salsa. My personal favorite.
I can put this on everything in sight. Remember, the “taquitos” they sold at your little league games as a kid and the green sauce that came out’ve a plastic jug? Aguacate is a 5-star creamy upgrade.
It’s got the coolness of avocado blended with cilantro, a bit of lime, salt, onion and garlic contrasted with the serrano peppers. It also has tomatillos in it very often.
Guacamole…another favorite for other reasons…isn’t so creamy and is primarily avocados without the tomatoes and has a thicker consistency.
SALSA ROJA – This is often the signature sauce at any local dining spot. I’ve encountered places that guard “grandma’s recipe” like Colonel Sanders safeguarded his finger-lickin’ good chicken recipe.
The main thing is roasted or boiled chili arbol. It’s got more kick than other salsa chilis and cooking brings out spicy smokey flavors and deep red colors. It’s then blended with the onions, garlic and other ingredients and can be served hot or cold.
This is definitely one you should taste ahead of time before spooning it on your food. Sometimes, a little goes a long way.
Everyone makes their salsas differently and part of the fun of eating in Mexico is sampling all the different types.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 9, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
For years, I’ve been telling folks about the Cross Border Express bridge (CBX) at the border for flying to Mexican destinations from Tijuana.
Mexico has a brand spanking-new air terminal now in Tijuana that’s as nice as many and perhaps nicer than many in the U.S. Indeed, Tijuana is quite a hub for air travel.
Many Americans over the years, especially from Southern California, Nevada, Arizona and even Utah found it much easier to cross the border and fly from Tijuana to places in Baja like Loreto, Cabo and La Paz and other locations in Cancun, Puerto Vallarta and others.
For one, it’s often much less expensive. From Tijuana, domestic flight instead of an international flight. Statistics show, it’s as much as 50% cheaper flying to Mexican destinations than from U.S. airports.
Lately, it’s been especially conducive with Covid since international travelers returning to the U.S. must obtain negative Covid tests before their flights. Domestic flights do not have that requirement.
However, back in the day, flying from Tijuana required actually crossing the border by driving, a shuttle, a bus or taxi. Or a generous understanding friend or family member.
It required navigating the maze of Tijuana streets and traffic to get to the terminal. Plus, it included the added anxiety and potential delays of just getting through the border check-point.
Those are huge deterrents to travel, especially for folks who don’t like the idea of driving through or into Mexico in the first place. Additionally, there’s the sheer nervousness and likelihood of getting lost on a Tijuana border street.
Not to mention, your Spanish is limited to ordering chalupas at Taco Bell.
Oh, and you have a plane to catch.
I’ve known many folks who missed a turn or two and ended up back on the U.S. side or got lost miles away from the terminal. Miss a turn, miss your plane!
To that end and with rare foresight, the CBX bridge was built several years ago. I’ve been touting it for years. Clients and friends rave about it.
Essentially, it allows travelers to park on the U.S. side of the border. Or shuttle/ taxi there. You then simply walk across the bridge right into the Tijuana terminal. No fuss. No bunched underwear getting lost.
It’s a game changer!
But, I had never taken it myself. It’s like telling someone how good Italian food is, but never having eaten it yourself.
So, this past week, I had the opportunity to go to San Diego for a few days with Jill, my wife. She remained, but I had to get back to our home and business in La Paz.
Booking was easy on Volaris Airlines. It’s a newer and increasing popular airline choice for Mexican air travel. It was $85 for a less-than-two-hour-flight to La Paz and the jet was completely full. About 1/3 were gringos.
She also booked me my ticket to use the CBX. Easy online for $16.
Dropping me off at the curb in the early morning hour to catch my flight, I was greatly surprised.
I mean, I expected a BRIDGE. Y’know…like a big span or girders or something.
On the contrary, it was like being dropped at a regular modern airline terminal. The CBX is, in fact, more like a giant causeway than an actual bridge.
Architecturally, rather beautiful.
I walked right up to an uncrowded airline counter and checked in. I could have opted for automated mini-kiosks as well.
I then walked over to an immigration counter to digitally fill out and print my immigration forms. Everything was computerized. There were helpful staff assisting folks.
Again, very easy. And off I went.
Through the gates and down several well-lit modern corridors. Signs and arrows were easy to follow.
I did one stop for them to take my temperature for Covid. Another short stop to have my luggage x-rayed. A short walk to another Volaris counter where I dropped off my luggage (There are carts available, but I was travelling light).
Another short walk and bam…I was in the new terminal. Starbucks…Johnny Rocket’s Burgers…convenience stores…cosmetics…clothes…a few sports bars.
And easy-to-find -boarding gates.
I had something to eat for breakfast and made my flight with plenty of time to spare. It was a no- brainer and could not have been easier.
The entire walk was maybe 100 total yards. Much easier than driving through the border and all over Tijuana.
I traveled light this time, but there are carts, luggage porters and wheelchairs if they had been needed.
For sure, two thumbs up 5-star rating in my book.
A couple of notes:
You can also park your vehicle in secure parking on the U.S. side. It’s a big bonus.
It’s as little as $18/day. In fact, you can reserve parking ahead of time online. Cost is about $25/day and guarantees parking even if the other lots are full. There is also valet parking.
If you’re coming the other way, car rentals are also available as are shuttle services from cities like Los Angeles and San Diego and cities in between all the way up to Sacramento. Plus Uber and Lyft.
There are discounts for families travelling together plus luggage porters and wheelchair assistance. There is assistance for minors travelling alone. You will also find scales, currency exchange counters as well as duty free shopping.
Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico http://www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED the WEEK of Oct. 9, 2021 in WESTERN OUTDOOR PUBLICATIONS
I am often asked about renting cars or just driving around Baja in general.
Or there are folks who tell me they are going to make some grand “Banzai” run from the border all the way down to Cabo. They tell me they drive wide open and non-stop like race car drivers.
They ask me for advice.
Having been down here almost 30 years and also having driven the Baja over a dozen times top to bottom and back, I mostly have one rule.
Do not drive at night.
Frankly, it’s dangerous.
When I tell folks that, I see their eyes go wide.
No, it’s not the banditos.
Some cartel is not going to grab you and run away with you.
The legendary chubacabra (vampire bat/dog) is not going to suck your blood and leave you in the desert.
It’s much more simple than that.
You have a great possibility of bumping into something at night in Mexico. Or, even missing something completely!
I don’t care how careful of a driver you are.
Mexican road are notoriously bad. You are probably already on an unfamiliar patch of highway or road.
A foot-deep pothole can suddenly shred a tire or bend an axle. Not to mention shake your dentures.
Also, consider this.
The Mexican road construction guys just LOVE to install speed bumps of all kinds. If one speed bump works let’s install 5 more just for fun!
At one point, in the two miles from my home to my office, there were 36 speed bumps along the way. You’ll hit them at the strangest places placed there for no apparent reason.
Some would give an Abrams battle tank fits. Others are spaced just enough so it’s like driving over a washboard. Others will literally launch your car airborne if you hit it at just the right speed.
Also, driving at night, you put on your headlights, right? Don’t assume other drivers will also have their headlights on. In fact, don’t assume other drivers even have headlights or taillights or brake lights for that matter.
Oh, and if they have headlights, they like to drive at you or pull up behind you with their bright hi-lights on.
Assuming again that you’re on unfamiliar roadway, things aren’t always well marked. Street signs can be non-existent, broken, hidden behind bushes and even hidden behind other signs.
This includes stop signs. Street lights. Street names. Detours. Warnings about potholes and speed bumps coming up…SOON!
Street lights often don’t work or are non-existent.
Therefore, all things considered, you have a great possibility of getting LOST. Or getting a traffic ticket. Remember, you’re in a highly visible rental car or a car with non-Mexican license plates.
I see it happen all the time.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that a lot of folks dress in black at night. I don’t know if it’s a fashion thing, but they’ll dash across a street. Walk through a crosswalk without looking. Jog and bike rider right in the traffic lane too!
Out in the country side, you have a whole other set of things to be concerned about.
Often, there’s debris on the roadway. Rocks. Parts of trees. Trash. Things that have fallen off other trucks or cars. Even on the best highways, there is always that danger.
I’ve seen it all. I’ve hit them all!
Even moreso, the biggest danger is hitting animals.
I’m not talking cats and dogs. Domestic street animals are usually pretty smart.
I have seen wild pigs and deer that occasionally cross a highway.
However, it’s the cows, burros, horses and goats you need to watch out for. Mostly, they are freerange animals left to wander a the countryside by a land owner.
They can be grazing on the side of the road. Often, at night, they will lie on the pavement for warmth. They can suddenly dart out’ve the bushes across the road.
In the middle of the night on a long lonely stretch of desert a herd of goats suddenly were in our headlights as we rounded a corner. We were already half-dazed from a lengthy drive.
Our big pickup with dually-rear tires ripped right into the herd. I would swear that I saw two bodies fly up and over our windshield and cab and our tires rapidly went “bump-bump” over others several several times.
Oops! No way to avoid them.
Even worse, I’ve had friends hit larger animals like a cow, or a burro. Not only is there extensive damage to the vehicle, but on several occasions, the animal is now the ranchers “most prized” and expensive piece of livestock.
Or course, it is.
Even if it was really nothing more than a scrawny range animal wandering the property.
The rancher now wants BIG MONEY.
So, drive in the light. Stay safe. Take your time.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Mexico has become the go-to place for Americans as things open up. It’s an easy get-away. It’s economical. It’s easy to get home.
More Americans are choosing Mexico over the rest of the Covid-recovering world.
Travel to Mexico is booming in all the usual places. Cancun, Puerta Vallarta. Cozumel. Cabo San Lucas.
It might not be back to where it was pre-2020, but it’s surely trending that way. There are reports that flight travel, in general, is just about where it used to be.
Just one problem.
The airlines weren’t quite ready for it to boom back this much or this fast.
Therefore, just as summer travel is hitting it’s stride, travelers are finding there’s some disconcerting hurdles to straddle
Frankly, flights are getting delayed, changed and canceled with regularity. Most recently American Airlines, Southwest and others have been cancelling over 100 flights per day. This does not begin to count the flights that are changed, delayed or re-routed.
Insofar as my wife and I have dozens of clients per week flying here to La Paz to fish with our fleet, I would venture to say that at least 30% have had their flights changed…often several times from the original…and sometimes at the last minute.
Maybe 40% have delayed flights where they either had unexpected waits at the airport or while sitting on the plane.
Perhaps 10% have had their flights outright cancel. Arriving a day or two later than planned, this has created issues with losing hotel nights as well as activities such as fishing.
If a replacement flight can even be found. With many flights full, it’s not always a possibility. Also, not all airlines fly every day.
Going home to the U.S. has sometimes been an issue as well, although usually not as much.
A big problem has been with connecting flights. If one connecting flight is cancelled or extensively delayed, then there is no way for a passenger to make their next flight in a timely fashion.
To some degree, the airlines point to the spat of bad weather that has hit the U.S. since the beginning of the year.
However, not withstanding Mother Nature’s capricious whims, the bigger problem is a result of Covid.
Many airlines layed-off thousands of employees last year. Many employees were encouraged to accept retirement packages.
Now with travel zooming back, like many industries, there’s a shortage of employees.
Running an airlines is a little more complicated than teaching someone to flip burgers.
One doesn’t suddenly find or train flight attendants in the classified section. You can’t train a jet pilot overnight. Aircraft mechanics and maintenance personnel don’t attend a 1 week night-class to get certified. Ground crews can’t be found on Craig’s List.
So, it’s just one more thing to keep an eye out for.
There are several things you can do.
For one, don’t assume the airline is going to tell you about changes. Seems kinda logical and good business, but that’s not always the case.
I’ve had several clients who were never informed of changes until THE DAY of TRAVEL.
I’ve had several others who never found out until they were AT THE AIRPORT.
One was told, “Well…we’re sorry. We tried to call you yesterday and also sent an e-mail, but no one answered.” That’s right up there with “The check is in the mail.”
Do yourself a favor and check…constantly! Especially as the trip gets closer, don’t be the person who turns off their e-mails and instant messages the last day they leave the office. Be pro-active and avoid surprises.
Be prepared for the possibility of delay.
Bring a book. Bring your medications. Bring a jacket. If there’s a bunch of delays and your flight isn’t until the next day, just assume that any nearby hotel will be full or just not worth the hassle.
So, figure out what you’re gonna do for a few hours sitting in an airport chair or in the restaurant or bar.
One of those goofy neck pillows isn’t a bad idea. Even if you’re not having to spend time in the airport, if you’re stuck sitting on the tarmac in your plane for an extra hour or two, you’ll be grateful you had a neck pillow.
The biggest thing to do is something I have advocated for years.
It’s trip insurance. Google it up . There’s a zillion different companies and plans that will very economically insure pretty much anything on your vacation to missed flights; to missed kayak trips; to lost hotel nights or other plans .
A week has not gone by lately where I was not assisting one of our clients help file a claim for compensation because of an airline SNAFU.
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of March 11, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications!
I guess there’s two stories to pass onto you this week in a round-about-kinda-way.
One actually is possibly some useful info about fishing in Baja, which is what this column is normally supposed to be about.
But, let me start with the first story!
As a kid I really only cared about three publications in my life.
One was the Sears Christmas catalog. If you were a kid, my reasons need no explanation. It was the most dazzling thing to have in your hands. I should have saved a copy or two to show to the grandkids.
Another was MAD. Don’t laugh. If any of you are old enough to remember, MAD Magazine, I think it’s how I learned how to read. It’s where I got my weird bent sense of humor.
It’s where I learned goofy songs and rhymes and things I didn’t even understand in those pre-teen years. And, of course, there was that backpage fold-out that was brilliant.
My mother, a dedicated 2nd grade teacher for 30+ years would always try to steer me towards good literature…classics…authors…etc. She was usually successful.
Except there was MAD Magazine. I don’t know how she and dad let me get away with that or knowing my allowance money was not being used very wisely.
But, there was one other magazine that I treasured and that DID receive a better nod of approval.
It was Field & Stream.
Now THAT was a magazine that I would definitely save my allowance to buy. It was everything I ever wanted to know about hunting and fishing and all the places and adventures I would someday have.
It was the Sears Catalog for the outdoors to me.
It was geography and adventures, Daniel Boone and Tom Sawyer all rolled onto the printed pages.
Cover-to-cover and back-and-forth. I would cut out articles and save them in scrap books. If I got caught under the bedsheets at night with a flashlight reading MAD Magazine or the Sears Catalog, they were confiscated.
With Field & Stream, they let me slide. Or dad would take it and read it himself.
Well…of all things…two weeks ago a writer for Field & Stream contacted me for an interview about fishing in Baja! Me? Are you kidding?
That icon of outdoor magazines wanted to know what someone like me thought? Wow! Needless to say, I was thrilled. I’m not sure how the interview went or how it will eventually look in print, but hey, I was happy to do it!
Which leads to the 2nd story of this column.
The reason they had asked me for the interview…
Apparently, I was part of a series of outfitters being asked how the Covid pandemic had affected us. As well, more importantly, they wanted to know what we thought of the coming year.
The first part was easy.
I think anyone who was in the travel industry or is still in the travel industry and didn’t get pulled down by the pandemic/ quarantine wolves will agree. Last year was devastating. It continues to be so in 2021.
It doesn’t matter if you were/are an outfitter, lodge, charter operation, guide, hotel, travel agent, airlines, cruise lines, taxi driver…If you dealt with any aspect of the travelling public, 2021 was unlike anything we had ever seen or could imagine.
Travel to Mexico? Travel abroad? Travel to another state? Travel to visit your family, kids, parents on the other side of town?
Are you kidding? We couldn’t even leave our houses, either because we couldn’t (lockdown); or were simply afraid to (contagion); or didn’t have the ways or means (no money) to travel.
No one could travel for essential things like work and school. So forget leisure travel like taking vacations or other discretionary trips.
Yea, we got hammered. Punched in the nose. Kicked in the nether regions then dog-piled while we were already on the ground. Many of our friends in the industry lost their jobs or had to find other or supplemental work.
For those of us in the travel industry still treading water, it’s not over yet.
For us in Baja, things really started to take an upswing there at the end of 2020. Americans were really scooting to Baja.
Mexico is close. It was economical. It was easy to there and get home.
Canada was a no-go because of the border closures and quarantines in place.
Going to Europe or Asia take some planning. Pack an overnight bag with shorts and t-shirts and you can fly off to Mexico.
Locally, more hotels and restaurants and other services were opening up. Airlines were having to add more flights to keep up with the demand. For us and other operators in Baja, things were looking up.
Bookings were picking up. People just wanted to get out no matter if there was vaccine or no vaccine. Covid or no covid.
Then, the new CDC rules were implemented in January of 2021. It required that everyone travelling into the U.S., including returning vacationers, have a negative Covid test within 72 hours of flying back to the U.S.
WHAM! BAM! Travel took another knee below-the-belt.
Bookings took a dive. Cancelations jumped up. Airflights got canceled. Folks not wanting to get stuck in Mexico made a mass exodus for home and left on-going vacations.
But, now things are looking up again. Whew!
Vaccines are being implemented. Moreso, Mexico got it’s game together and erected testing facilities at airport, hotels, timeshares and labs to make it cheap and convenient to get the tests. Can’t lose the all-important tourism sector again.
So, people are booking again.
But, will it be a good season?
I think so. The fish were largely left alone last year. Six to 8 months there was literally zero sportfishing traffic on the water.
Even when things opened, it was only a fraction of the usual crowds.
The fish had time to grow. The fish had time to spawn and mate without getting bonked by lures run scattered by boat motors. More importantly, their food source…the critical baitfish weren’t depleted.
I thnk this year of 2020 will be an improvement over last year. But, it still won’t see the normal numbers and the experts are saying we’re really only going to see 30-50% of the normal visitors.
So, bigger fish. Hungrier fish. More fish. More bait.
And maybe just you out there on the water!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Aug. 18, 2020 in Western Outdoor Publications
Have you ever found yourself during the day going through your usual routine and everything is just dandy? But somewhere, somehow you feel something is not quit right.
Hmmm….
Did you leave the iron on or tthe water running back home? Nope.
Forget to feed the dogs and cats? Nope
Got your wallet and keys? Check.
A birthday or anniversary or other event missed? Nope
Underwear on right side out? All good.
Just can’t put your finger on it. But, you know something just isn’t co-pacetic. There’s a slight disturbance in the force.
We’ve been up and running our fishing operation and small café and mini-market mostly for 2 months now here in La Paz. Like everyone else, just trying to pull-it-together and hold-it-together after 4 months of strict quarantine.
Moving forward as as best as we can. No other choice.
We’re thankful to be on our feet. Moving slowly, but gratefully. There’s a lot of our friends and neighbors who are not so lucky. No jobs. No money. Closed businesses. Layoffs continuing.
We are allowed only 30% occupancy at hotels and restaurants as well as other places of business. But frankly, there’s not enough people around to come close to that. Maybe 10-20% on a good day.
I guess, however, we’re settling into our groove. We have clients and friends coming and going like usual. They’re catching fish and doing the things they always do.
But after two months something is sorely amiss or missed.
We’re missing something here.
It wasn’t until about a week ago, it hit me. I was saying good bye to some folks that were headed out to the airport. And I reailzed…in SIX DAYS… I hadn’t even seen their faces! I had no idea what they looked like.
Conversely, they hadn’t seen mine either.
I’m not sure how to describe this.
When they arrive from the airport, they have their masks and go straight to their rooms. I see them for about 5 minutes in the morning when we put them on the boats.
On the boats, everyone is masked up. The captains are wearing them. The clients are wearing them. It doesn’t do much for social interaction. No one likes talking through a mask.
When they come to our restaurant, again, mask are on. They take them off when they are eating, but because of social distancing, it’s not like the old days when I’d pull up a chair; have a beer and socialize.
Or I stand 6’ away and try to have some kinds of conversation. It’s not very conducive to chatting.
So, after a number of days here, clients come. They go. And I’ve spent maybe 15 minutes total time with them. Hello. Now good-bye!
Hate to admit it, but with the safety protocols, it’s lonely and boring! I understand the need for all of these things to be in place. But they have made fishing and dining so anti-septically clinical, that it’s truly taken the fun out’ve it.
Fishing was always a social event. You get together with the guys or the family and you come fish and have a good time. We chat and laugh and I get to see real smiles.
We don’t even shake hands, hug or high-five anymore. When they’re trying to show off-photos of their catch, be careful not to get too close.
I can’t help carry their luggage. No one touches anything or immediately, you pull your gel out.
Even moving around town is different.
Have you ever been to Universal Studios where you’re walking down one of those movie-set city blocks?” Everything in those movie cities and neighborhoods is perfect.
The people are perfect. Cars are perfect. Everything is clean and spotless. Everyone looks straight ahead. Got their masks on. No eye contact. No “Buenos dias.” No waving hello. No talking.
If anyone were smiling, you would never know it.
It’s just like they are all movie “extras” following a script and you’re just in the middle wondering what’s going on.
People here move from Point A to Point B and then they get off the street.
There’s no kids out. There’s no teenagers out. No families.
I think many folks would agree that it’s been a strange year for weather. In many parts of the U.S., winter lingered stubbornly well into June and even July.
Correspondingly, down here in Baja, we experienced much of the same. Waters stayed cooler. Air temperatures seemed below normal. Cold-water species continued to bite well past their normal seasons. Warm-water fish seemed to take their time showing up.
It made for some crazy and unusual catches this season.
And then, about the time you stopped trying to figure it all out, someone opened a window and summer showed up. Late…but it showed up.
Here in La Paz where we live, that would be about the end of July or early August when things finally seemed to turn around .
Humidity rose. Air temps rose. Water cleared up and warmed up. Water-water fish like dorado finally started to bite with some measure of enthusiasm.
And all was right again.
Until Hurricane Lorena about 2 weeks ago. As far as tropical hurricanes in Mexico go, it wasn’t much. We’ve seen much worse and suffered the harsh after-affects.
Lorena didn’t hurt anyone. It didn’t knock down houses or destroy marinas. Except for some trees and power poles, it was one of the mildest hurricanes I can recall in my 25 years down here.
Although it did get pretty windy, I think most of us actually welcomed the much needed rain, although it did rain for about 12 hours!
What Lorena did, I think, is carried summer away with it. Like Dorothy’s house in the Wizard of Oz…summer went careening up, out and away.
In the hurricane aftermath, it feels like summer suddenly ended. Like a switch was thrown.
Air temperatures that had been in the high 90’s and low 100’s have been 10 degrees cooler overall. It has averaged only about 88 or so since the hurricane.
Similarly, humidity has dissipated as well. Before the hurricane we had steamy 80-85% humidity. The hot sauna air was that thick.
As one of my employees told me, “I think we are breathing water.”
Since then, we’ve hovered around a comfortable 50-55%.
Water temperatures have also dropped. In our area, it dipped 2-5 degrees in a week.
The change in fishing was gradual, but ultimately profound.
It took the fish awhile to figure out. Just like us.
Normally, after a storm, it takes awhile any for water to calm and clear up. And fishing seemed noticeably slower to get up to speed again.
Then, when it did start to break open, we still had the warm water species like dorado and marlin, but a whole host of entirely different an unusual species started bending rods.
Fish like pargo liso, sierra, amberjack, yellowtail, cabrilla and palometas showed up in the counts. These are all cold-water fish virtually unheard of at this time of year.
These are sure signs that something has changed below the surface.
If this trend continues, I think anglers should be prepared for this variety of species. Also, don’t be surprised if it’s cooler and windier with each progressive week and waters will be rougher.
I hear this week there’s blizzards and heavy snow in Montana, Utah and Idaho. It is supposed to snow this week in the Sierras. Summer is gone. Shortest summer ever.
In the mornings, I’m already wearing a sweatshirt. In Baja. In September. I better find my long pants around here somewhere.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 10, 2019 in Western Outdoor Publications
It’s 5:30 a.m. here in La Paz and it’s still dark outside. We just put out our first group of fishermen for the day with our sportfishing fleet.
It looks like it’s gonna be a great day. Seas are flat. Winds are calm a a brilliant quarter moon is shimmering on the water.
At this time yesterday morning, it was Armageddon.
To use another Bible reference, I think it’s the Book of Kings (I’m sure many of you know better than me) that says something about “Chariots of fire in the sky and the air being “torn asunder.’”
Well, that’s what it was like.
Woke up to a few little drops of water. No big.
Saw some lightning flashes over the hills. Heat lighting in the dark. No big.
That stuff happens all the time.
The weather forecast for the day has NOTHING on the radar.
I’ve got 40-something anxious fishermen on the beach… in the dark waiting to go fishing.
“GOOD MORNING, EVERYONE!”
…and just about then, as if in response, the heavens answered.
Suddenly, a BRILLIANT jag in the dark as if someone had popped a zillion camera flashes and I was suddenly looking at the lit up big-eyed faces of all our clients …followed by…
BOOM!!! BOOM!!! BOOM!
As if we were suddenly in a giant kettle drum.
More lightning. More deafening incoming kettle drums! It was like Thor and the Angel Gabriel decided to have a drumming contest and lightning was so close overhead the hair on your arm prickled up with static electricity.
Some bolts hit the water in the distance! YEOW!
Then, the rain came.
And came. We huddled under whatever cover we could.
I could see my captains offshore in the misty dark. The pangas continually lit by the lighting now so bright I could have read a book. I nervously radioed them to hold on.
Through the din of the rain and the artillery thunderclaps, my wife and I kept reassuring everyone that this will pass.
Man…we had our fingers crossed because most clients were in favor of heading straight back to their hotel rooms. Sheets of rain now obscured everything.
Nothing worse than telling people on vacation that their day had been canceled.
This was not looking good. Darnit…
And then…just like that. It stopped.
Was it over? We hesitantly emerged from hiding like nervous bunnies peeking from our holes. All eyes skyward. Some passing clouds clearing. A few residual drops.
They all looked at us. A pregnant moment of silence…
“We told you so (breathing a sigh of relief)! LET’S GO FISHING!
Yay!
We called the boats in. Everyone boarded. We had one of the best fishing days of the season.
My wife and I exhaled as we left the beach. Dodging a bullet will do that to you. Not getting caught in a big hopeful FIB will also do that to you.
When I assured folks it was just a passing storm, it was really just a hopeful guess!
But, as I sit here composing my column, I have the extended weather forecast out. There’s a hurricane headed our way although it’s going to bank and head to the Pacific. Maybe well get some larger waves and some gusts of wind.
Juliet, please head away from us!
However, I see in about 6 days, we’re in for some thundershowers. Fortunately, it will be in the afternoon. After everyone is back from fishing eating nachos, drinking beers and telling fishing stories.
So, I think it will be Ok. I hope it will be OK. I hate fibbing.
The big blow that passed over us was not on the radar. It was not in the forecast. It’s what the locals call a “TORITO.” A “little bull” hurricane. It comes…hits hard…and goes.
The big chubasco hurricane is the one we really worry about. In my 25 years down here, I’ve been through 8 of them. Most blow through and in a day or two, we’re back on the water.
A few like Odile in 2014 cut a chunk of devastation with 200 mph winds. We knew it was coming.
The ominous thing is that unlike other hurricanes that can be watched for days before striking, Odile gave us less than 24 hours notice. A benign chubasco suddenly and unexpectedly turned and hurled itself into Baja.
But, this is that tropical time of year. This stuff can and does happen.
It’s the BEST fishing in Baja.
Year-after-year, we are packed with fishermen because they know it’s a great time to fish!
This is when the fun species like tuna, wahoo and dorado dominate. Giant roosterfish prowl the beaches. Striped, blue, black marlin and sailfish arrive in schools.
There’s a reason that all the major tournaments…some of the largest in the world like the Bisbee’s Black & Blue and the Western Outdoor News Tuna Jackpot are held during this time.
From late summer through fall, it seems there are several major tournaments going on every single week.
They’re happening and folks come from all over the world because the fishing is so good.
But, you just never know about the weather. It’s a capricious mistress.
I have spent many years flying around the country for business and pleasure. I always passed those little machines at the airports selling travel insurance.
What’s that all about? Never mind…there’s a plane to catch. Check it out later.
That was way way back in the day.
There is no way to control the weather. But, you do have some control about how the weather or other unforeseen incidents impact your vacation.
Travel insurance is easy and economical. It should be a part of your travel planning just like an extra set of underwear. It doesn’t take much space.
Here in Mexico, it’s pretty hard to get a refund for anything. Actually, it’s like that in most parts of the world. Weather-related cancelations in the fishing industry? Weather is a part of fishing. Weather happens.
It’s like going on a hunting trip. Because you don’t shoot an elk or it snows, you don’t ask for a refund,
Ever tried to get a refund from the airlines or a hotel? Short of an actual medical emergency or actual crisis, get ready for a lot of phone calls and documents you’ll have to submit.
A bit of cheap travel insurance kicks in and you’re golden again. You won’t recover the lost day. But, at least you’ll get some re-imbursement.
Like a 2nd set of underwear. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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His articles also appear in:
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That's My Story 