Originally Published the Week of May 22, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
“I’ve never seen it like this before”
“I think this is what it must have been like back in the day.”
“This is almost eerie. Been coming for years and there’s something has definitely changed.”
“It’s like there’s something in the water.”
Quotes from a recent sci-fi thriller?
Nope.
Recent comments from Baja fishermen.
And they’re not talking about some toxic sludge, eco-disaster or some other ominous occurrence or disaster.
On the contrary.
They’re actually talking about what might be one of the more incredible fishing seasons in many years.
From all parts of Baja and the west coast of Mexico, reports have been trickling in about phenomenal catches.
Big fish.
Most fish.
A plethora of fish not experienced for far too many years.
Sure, every location is subject to the occasional fish that has a “wow-factor” to it because of its unusual size. Or the occasional day when all the planets, the moon and stars line up for a haul of a lifetime.
It happens all the time. Worth a thumb-up; a high-five and a photographic Kodak moment. That’s why there are fishing magazines and online websites showing the latest and greatest.
However, almost half-way through the year, these “Kodak” moments are getting too frequent to ignore.
Maybe I’m wrong, but stories are coming in of species that haven’t been seen in these numbers for awhile. Stories of fish with incredible…and even world-record size. Stories of fish that are attacking baits and lures with a rabid ferociousness.
Even divers and snorkelers, sailors and other water-enthusiasts report, more dolphin and porpoise; more whales; more sea-turtles; more manta rays. Just an abundance of life unseen for a long long time.
What gives?
“I’m sure there were at least a dozen 80-pound roosterfish swimming under the boat!”
“We were back at the docks by 10 a.m. Limits like crazy in a single day and we threw back more fish than I’ve caught over several days!”
“My kid caught a huge dorado one day. It had everyone saying how they had not seen a fish that size in years. The next day we got one even bigger. The next day we caught one even bigger than that plus a lot of smaller ones!”
I was discussing it with some of our captains at our fleet here in La Paz.
I think one of them hit the nail on the head in one word, “Covid.”
We all laughed. But, I think he had it correct.
Think about it. Last year with pandemic rampaging around, fishing was brought to a standstill. No boats. No charters. No fleets. No traffic on the water.
Even the commercial boats were diminished.
For the first-time by social, government and health mandate, the fish were left alone. The ocean was quarantined. Maybe the first time ever.
Mother nature was left alone.
Left alone to heal, if you will. While the rest of us on land tried to find a way to heal as well.
Proving once again, what can happen if we just keep our doggone hands outta the pot. For the better part of an entire year, we were forced to stay off the big pond.
And she responded. Fish had time to grow. Fish had time to re-produce and make more fish. Waters and habitat got cleaner. Less pollution.
It’s a magnificent thing to see again. I don’t want to be out’ve work like that again. But, maybe we all needed a little rest and re-assessment.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of May 17, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
The vibe just kinda just hit me this week.
I had to go down to Cabo San Lucas which is about 100 miles south of us where we live in La Paz. Had to take care of some business, but also check out the Cabo Airport.
I got stuck in traffic.
It’s been awhile since I’ve been stuck in traffic down here. I mean, not just slo-mo movement. I mean gridlock bumper-to-bumper stuff.
At the airport, to drop off folks, shuttle vans and taxis were triple-parked trying to let folks off at the curb. Inside the terminal lines snaked back-and-forth and up-and down.
It was a morass of people struggling to find their proper lines to check in for their flights as well as get their covid tests.
Picking folks up, the same thing. Chaos. People ready and anticipating a cold margarita and sunny vacations now stuck in lines. Buzz kill.
Like being a kid getting taken finally to Disneyland then realizing it’s a 2 hour line to get on your favorite ride.
From the time planes were landing, it was taking 1-2 hours for folks to get off the plane and get their luggage. Then, they had to navigate get through more snaking lines for immigration and finally customs and luggage x-rays.
It was another hour wait to get a rental car…if you’re lucky.
As my amigo and I sat in the car waiting for traffic, I looked at him and said, “I guess we’re back to normal.” And went back to drumming my fingers on the steering wheel.
And so it is. I guess we’re somewhat back to normal. At least it feels like it. The new normal? Maybe so.
There’s no doubt that Mexico, especially Baja, has become the #1 vacation target for Americans looking to get away…finally. Covid or no covid. Vaccine or no vaccine.
Mexico is close. A quick little plane ride.
There’s no quarantine. It’s economical. It’s a long weekend.
To many the culture is not so unfamiliar. It’s second nature to many Americans. It’s not like going to France or Italy or somewhere in Asia. And, getting back home is easy too.
Although Baja still has restrictions, truthfully, they are almost un-noticeable.
Sure, you still gotta wear a mask. It’s a requirement, but it feels very relaxed. No one is shaking a finger at you if you’re not wearing one.
And for sure, it’s rare that someone is going to remind the precious tourists with the American dollars to put on a mask.
As you walk around, you’ll know if you need to pull up your mask.
You will still have folks taking your temperature at some places. No big deal.
Admittedly, restaurants and hotels are supposed to only be at 40-50% occupancy.
But, I see hotel parking lots are full. Many restaurants are full and I sure don’t see many tables supposedly 6’ apart.
If the restrictions are being observed, it’s pretty loose. Or maybe no one is really checking that hard. Getting people working is too important.
Everyone is trying to make up for a devastating 2020, no doubt.
Those are just my own personal observations. A generality, if you will.
But, honestly, it’s exciting to feel the nice buzz in the air. A nice energy. Visitors are excited to be here.
Folks are excited to be working again. Locals are excited to have you. Businesses have open arms waiting for you.
Baja had it especially tough last year. I remember everything being closed. I remember night time curfews.
I remember only being allowed to have 2 persons in a car and everyone better have a mask on. I remember having to sanitize your shoes and feet before entering a business.
For Pete’sake, I remember when they cut off beer sales because brewing beer was a “non-essential activity.” Long lines and small riots ensued at convenience stores.
Toilet paper no problem, but cutting off beer in Mexico? That’s a real crisis.
I don’t miss any of that.
In an ironic bitter-sweet way, I will miss some things however. Not that I ever want to go back to 2020.
In a weird Twilight Zone kind of way, it was a peek at Mexico the way it was 30 or 40 years ago.
The ocean was empty and uncrowded.
The fish were ready and eager. There had been so little traffic on the water.
I had the beaches to myself.
At restaurants the service was crazy good. Waiters were falling all over themselves to wait on me. Few tables were occupied.
Hotels were almost giving away rooms to have you be there. You got the pool all to yourself. The jacuzzi didn’t have 20 kids diving in it.
The swim up bar was just you and the bartender. And he was anxious to have some company.
And traffic? What traffic? Roads were empty. The airport was empty.
Things moved at a much more leisurely pace.
I couldn’t wait for it all to end and it’s good to get back to some normalcy. Good to see people back working and visitors flocking back.
But, for awhile I got to see a different older Mexico. Just for awhile.
It’s like those movies where someone invents a time machine and goes back in time. Nice to visit, but you don’t wanna stay there too long!
It’s good to be back to business. Even if I’m stuck in traffic now and then.
That’s my story!
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of May 13, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
We’re gonna do a little “word association” test. Read the following words then close your eyes.
“MEXICAN DRIVERS”
I bet I can guess what went through your head after reading those words. All those “stereotypes” come flooding into your thoughts?
Just to be fair, stereotypes are stereotypes.
They’re a broad-brush painting that may-or-may-not have a lot of truth or fairness to it. But, after living in Mexico for almost 3 decades, the thoughts that flew through your brain probably weren’t too far off.
Listen, there’s bad drivers all over the world.
How many people did you call out under-your-breath on your last freeway commute home from work? Everyone slower than you was a “jerk.” Everyone faster than you was a “butthead.” Right?
I don’t want to say that Mexicans are bad drivers. But, I will say they drive “differently” and it behooves you to be a “better” driver because of it. In other words, CYA. . .”cover your backside” and drive defensively.
Why is that?
Well, a couple of things that happened recently might have coalesced my thoughts on the matter.
For one, I just realized that of our employees that “know” how to drive, most have no driver’s licenses. Some have NEVER had a license or have expired licenses. They just laugh.
When you need to get from Point A-to Point B for work, you do what you gotta do. Don’t need no license and don’t have time or money to get one!
As a foreigner, I never had to take a test to get a Mexican driver’s license. I never had to even prove that I could drive. I just had to fill out the paperwork.
I had to pay my money. And, like DMV’s everywhere, I had to stand in several long lines.
However, unlike say the DMV in the states, I found out that I could pay a proxy to stand in line for me. Yup. Pay for someone to stand in line for me!
I could go sit down; check my e-mails on my phone; buy a hot dog or a churro from one of the vendors inside the TRANSITO (DMV) office. My proxy calls me when it’s my turn to run up to the line.
He follows me to the next line. He tells me where I need to sign documents. He basically leads me by hand from one teller window or clerical office to the next. Nothing is done in one line.
It’s a good thing because the TRANSITO office is a small version of the floor of the NY stock exchange. It’s chaos incarnate.
Noisy. Little offices everywhere. Lines everywhere. Lines to nowhere. Confusing signs on the walls.
People milling and yelling and papers being shuffled. There’s no appointments. There’s no obvious order.
Paying a proxy a few bucks and a hot dog was well worth it. Turns out my guy was a police officer making a little money on the side. Tipping is appreciated.
Circling back, however, the point of my story is that to get a license you do NOT have to prove you can operate a moving vehicle.
Unlike, the U.S., however, you DO have to prove that you are “alive.”
I say that tongue-in-cheek because to get a license, you must submit to a blood test. Yes, a blood test. I don’t know why.
But, you go across the street to an approved “lab” and they take a blood test. Cost is about 20 bucks. You take your test results when you get your license.
That’s it. No driving test. No written test.
Painted outside the TRANSITO office there’s ariel-view street grid l painted on the asphalt/ concrete. . Kinda like Lego-land.
The streets area about 12-inches side. It has little streets and buildings painted there with parking spaces and stop signs and left-turn lanes and one-way streets.
I’m told that an examiner will take you through a “test” and let you WALK through the faux-streets. You get to show that you know when to stop and how to back up and how to make left turns.
You are not in a car.
You are in an “air-car” like playing “air-guitar.”
You are not in a vehicle. You turn our “air wheel” to make a turn. You shift gears in the air like when you were a kid. You step on the imaginary brakes.
Maybe you even have to make “vroom vroom” sounds as you drive around.
Like I said, I never had to take any kind of driving or written test to get my Mexican license.
However, I’ve had local friends who were given written exams. They were getting their driving licenses for the first time.
The tests are not open book. There is no book. There’s no manual.
If you know how to drive, it’s not because you took lessons. It’s because someone else, maybe with questionable skills shows YOU how to drive. The circle continues.
With the written tests, no one is monitoring the test takers. Apparently, you’re welcome to discuss questions with your neighbor test-taker.
Answer by committee. Everyone gets to agree on the right answer about when it’s OK to blow through a stop sign or not having to signal a left turn.
When, my wife, Jill went to get her motorcycle license so she could ride her scooter it was a good example. She panicked when she was given the written test in Spanish. Multiple choice.
To her great joy, about 5 other test-takers all gladly helped her. They not only interpreted the questions, but also gave her the correct answers!
She only missed 1 answer and later told me she didn’t understand half the questions. But, she did got her scooter license.
Two weeks later, she stopped riding the scooter because of all the “crazy drivers.” I’m glad she did!
Just saying…
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of May 4, 2020 in Western Outdoor Publications
“OUCH!”
“HEY!”
I admit hearing my lovely wife squirming behind the closed door had me squirming and wincing myself. First, because no one likes to hear a loved one in distress or pain.
Secondly, it was because when she came out from behind that door, it was my turn to go back there.
We were there for our required Covid tests in order to fly back to the U.S. for a quick turn-around trip.
Since January 26th, the CDC and Biden Administration are requiring that everyone FLYING back into the U.S. from an international destination needed to have a Covid test. Further, it can’t be any older than 72 hours before the date of travel back into the U.S.
You need to have the test even if you have been vaccinated.
Many hotels in tourist-saturated areas like Cabo San Lucas have facilities to obtain the tests. Plus labs have sprouted up all over. Additionally, all the international Mexican Airports have testing labs to facilitate the tests.
Where we live in La Paz, the hotels do not have enough international tourism to warrant erecting labs or creating testing facilities or services. Therefore, my wife and I opted to go to one of the local labs.
So, there we were.
Nice clean little place that offered all kinds of lab services; blood tests; or pretty much anything diagnostic to poke and prod one’s body. As mentioned, lots of labs have popped up everywhere to administer the covid testing.
I didn’t have any trepidation. Figured it would be in-and-out-and done. I heard it was a 15-minute issue. Results in an hour. How bad could it be?
We had to show our i.d. and the expression-less lady behind the acrylic glass reception office with the mask took our info. Tap…tap…tap…typing stoically on the keyboard.
No expression. Reminded me of the one of the old nuns when I was in grade school. All business.
Of course…just before…I got whacked on the head with a ruler.
They told us that the test would take 15 minutes, but like most things, the paperwork part took “at least” 15 minutes by the indifferent receptionist.
A lady in a white lab coat came out. I was directed to take a seat. Jill was told to follow the lady in the lab coat behind a closed door.
At first I heard my wife giggling.
I grabbed a magazine and opened a page.
Then, I heard the giggles turn to groans…and a bit of agonized yelps.
That didn’t sound so good. My anxiety level took a couple of up-ticks.
More bad sounds and squirming.
Then Jill came out. She did not look happy. And I know she has a pretty high pain tolerance.
Before I could say anything to her, the lab-coat lady beckoned me into the room.
My turn.
I sat in the chair with a nervous laugh as she took out the long nasal swab. I tried to smile and I know my hands gripped the arm-rests of the chair. Based on what my wife went through, I prepared for the worst.
Here she goes…up my nose!
…and then she was done.
Just like that. Maybe 2 total seconds where she was actually WAAAY back there that were uncomfortable, but otherwise easy-shmeazy. I felt a little tickle.
We were done.
Got results in 30 minutes on our cellphone. Both negative.
As I found out later, just like anything else, folk re-act differently to the actual testing. I guess it also depends on who’s sticking that swab up your nasal passage too. But, I did feel really bad for Jill. Hours later, she said she could still feel it. I’ve heard that from others as well. It can hurt! Or not.
One friend has had the test 6 times for work related requirements. He works in a testing lab.
He told me 3 times it hurt enough to bring tears to his eyes. Three times, he felt almost nothing. All done by the same lab tech at his work.
He told me it had alot to do with the condition of nasal passages. Allergies, dry weather or a recent cold can inflame the nasal cavity. Previous nasal injuries can also produce scar tissue. Using a saline rinse before and after the test helps. So does putting some non-fragrance vaseline in your nose.
Anyway…for Jill and I…
Cost was 1000 pesos…$50 each.
Had we gone to the Cabo Airport, it’s a little different.
For one, give yourself an extra hour so you have enough time for the test. Keep in mind that there could be a line.
(The testing tent outside Cabo Airport)
However, according to one of our friends who took the airport test, “…the test was pretty easy. You walk in (take your luggage with you); scan your QR code with your phone to fill out the questionnaire; and you pay. “
“You are then led into a corridor to sit down, wait until someone sticks that swab down your nose, leave, and 30 minutes later, get an email on your results!”
Cost was about $40 and he said they accept credit cards and pesos, but no American dollars.
It’s also important to have functional cell service while at the testing site (airport WIFI doesn’t work) because when scanning the QR code, you go to a site that you need to fill out which includes an email address.
That’s where your results will be sent. There’s someone there to help with English or Spanish.
Bring your luggage back with you to the counter and show your results to get your boarding pass. You’ll also need to show your cellphone questionnaire before they let you up to the gates.
As this is a new thing, the airport can be a morass of frantic travelers wrestling with cellphone reception; figuring out where to go; filling out the forms, etc. However, there are numerous friendly and patience airport assistants all over the place being very helpful.
Off you go. No quarantine when you get back to the U.S. Hopefully, as things get better, they’ll eventually do away with the test requirments.
Until then, best to know what to expect.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR FISHING – DON’T LEAVE FISH TO FIND FISH
Originally Published the Week of April 28, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
How does that saying go?
“Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned.”
I would like to throw out a challenger:
“Nothing worse than a grumpy fisherman when everyone else is catching fish except him.”
I know from experience. I have been in the path of such a demon and it can be like watching one of those disaster movies where the huge apocalyptic tidal wave is coming. There’s no escape. Climbing the tallest tree or building isn’t gonna save you.
Running a couple of fishing fleets here in Baja, I get the reports from my captains before they get back to the beach. Everyone has caught lots of fish. Everyone had a great time.
Except one boat. And the one guy.
And it’s the guy who calls himself the “expert.” He’s fished everywhere and caught everything and he’s done it all.
And my captain gives me the code word on the radio “caliente” meaning, they’re coming in hot. The client is NOT happy.
Oh no. Not like I can run away. I know I’m gonna either get an earful of what went wrong ( it’s never the angler’s fault). Or, I’ll get the silent Clint Eastwood squint of the pissed-off fisherman.
Nothing like someone who’s upset and when you ask them what’s wrong, you get a brusque, “I’m fine!”
Well…alrighty then…we’ll just walk to the other side of the room and give you some space!
Before trying to figure out what went wrong I always chat with my captain. I don’t like asking questions that I don’t already know the answer to.
Was the bait bad? Was the guy simply unlucky? Did he actually hook fish, but they broke off ? That’s not bad fishing. That’s simply bad catching.
Did he have a tackle box full of bananas?
Often, one I hear is that the client just kept moving around too much and kept telling my captain he wanted to move. Even when the fish were biting.
The client wanted bigger fish.
Or he wanted a different species…then another type…then another type to cross of his bucket list.
Or he simply had read too much and wanted to try all the “famous” spots he read about.
For whatever reason, the client was like a waterbug scooting from spot-to-spot-to-spot. Even when the fish were biting. Even when other boats were catching fish.
That spot just wasn’t up to his expectations and in a version of “grass-is-greener-on-the-other-side” wanted to keep moving…and moving again.
When I am finally able to confront the angler, it’s really hard to tell them to just stop racing all over the ocean. Especially, if it’s an angler that attests to knowing more than my captain or me about fishing.
However, I learned long ago when working as a deckhand and also as a fishing guide “Don’t leave fish to find fish.”
There’s only a finite number of hours in a fishing day.
If the fish are biting where you are, you probably shouldn’t pull up and go looking for a different spot. At least give your current spot time to produce whatever it’s going to produce.
Sure, you might find a better spot. But, there’s a good chance you might not. And you’ll be wasting time and bait and gas chasing around.
While everyone else is hooking fish and having a good time!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of April 4, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
Back in the day…state of the art. (Shudder)
There was a time, many decades ago when I worked as a deckhand on sportfishing boats, when there would be an audible groan when someone walked on board with a spinning reel.
If you don’t know, there’s basically two kinds of reels. Everything else is a variation of those two reels.
There’s a “conventional reel” that looks kind of like a barrel-shape on top of the rod.
Then, there’s the “spinning reel” that goes under the rod and looks like…well…a spinning reel. It’s not easy to describe.
A lot of fishermen started out as kids with a spinning rod fishing in lakes and streams. Great reels, no doubt. Easy to learn. Easy to use.
My own first was a black Mitchell Garcia (remember those?) with 4-pound-test line that my dad had attached to a K-Mart fishing rod. (Remember when K-Mart ruled?).
But, as far as many of us saltwater fishermen were concerned, spinning reels should stay in lakes and stream.
In fact, many of us called them “coffee grinders” outwardly or at least under-our-breaths. This was due to the big handle you would “grind” when retrieving line or fighting a fish.
“Coffee grinder” was not a complimentary title. Anglers who brought them out on boats weren’t held in high esteem either.
Justly or unjustly, it marked that person as someone to avoid. You stayed away from them. You fished as far away from them as possible.
You’d just as soon fish next to a guy who picked his nose than a guy with a spinning reel. It was that bad.
There was a good chance that if that fisherman had a coffee-grinder reel, they weren’t very good fishermen. Additionally, the reels themselves had a hard time controlling fish.
The reels often weren’t very good. Poor engineering . Poor components.
Ultimately, they were just overblown and oversized freshwater reels. I’ve seen these reels seize up or break. I’ve seen big fish just blow these reels apart.
A novice fisherman with a reel and equipment that doesn’t do much to control a fish is a bad combination.
Chances are they’re gonna tangle you which wastes a lot of time and gear. It will always happen at the worst time. And they won’t know how to untangle things. It’s now YOUR problem.
Additionally, because of the gear and inexperience, they can’t control their fish during the fight . That means, not only are they tangling you, but they have a good chance of cutting your line…especially if your line is taught as you also fight a fish! Adios fish! Seee-yaaaa!!
DANGER! DANGER!!! STAY AWAY FROM ME!!! RUN AWAY!!! GO FISH ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BOAT!!!
This was years ago. And all things considered, I knew there had been many improvements. However, old prejudices die hard and old dogs don’t learn new tricks very well.
The only reason I mention it is because over the last few years, I’m seeing more and more of these spinning reels showing up on fishing boats in Baja. With the exception of trolling or the biggest of big fish, they seem to be working well.
The technology has improved.
They are lighter and stronger alloys.
They have better line capacity and are able to hold larger line classes.
They cast as smoothe as silk and even a novice can learn to handle one very easily and quickly. Certainly it’s a lot faster and initially more comfortable than a conventional reel set up.
They also have reversible handles so both left-and-right handed anglers are comfortable and “bait runner” innovations that allow baits to free-swim more naturally than the predecessor reels and more like conventional reels.
First and foremost, the drag systems are so much more improved. They can really put the brakes on some of the biggest and most powerful fish most anglers will encounter. That includes tuna, marlin, giant roosterfish and others.
Frankly, they look like something a starship trooper would would use in a Star Wars movie.
I know a lot of these innovations have actually been around for a bit, but well…like I said…I’m old school. And more spinning reels are catching my eye.
And folks are doing well with them. Even veteran fishermen are finding a spot for them in their arsenal.
I’m not giving up my conventional gear, but I stopped making fun of anglers with coffee-grinders and looking sideways at them with a wink or raised eyebrow.
Always room to learn at least one new trick, although sometimes I’m a slow learner.
That’s my story…
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of March 28, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
I’ve done many “how to” articles and magazine columns over the years. So has everyone else.
However, I can’t think if I have ever done an article about things you should NOT do when fishing in Mexico. After 30 years and thousands of clients, I’ve seen a thing or two and maybe I have a little insight for you.
I’m also getting a lot of inquiries from folks who plan to go fishing for the first time in Mexico as well in 2021.
A lot of it might just be common sense and/ or common courtesy.
Here’s some things that I’ve been told by my captains or other employees and friends who are in the tourist industry.
Here you go…
Don’t be afraid to speak Spanish. It’s appreciated.
By the same token, don’t assume that people don’t understand what you’re saying in English. I’ve witnessed some embarrassing moments and have had a few of my own where I said something and thought the other person didn’t understand.
Don’t be afraid to say you don’t know. Believe me, it’s way better than the person who shows up and tells you they know EVERYTHING or they are the BEST at everything.
Blah…blah…blah. My brain shuts down. Words are coming out of your mouth, but all I’m really hearing is Charlie Brown’s teacher. Waaa-waaa-waaah!
Don’t act like you could do it better or you know someone who can do it better. It comes off as condescending. People are doing the best they can. Walk a mile in their shoes before you tell someone they’re doing it wrong.
Don’t be afraid to overtip. Don’t show money then be chintzy.
At minimum wage in Mexico, a person earns maybe $8-10 dollar PER DAY. That’s PER DAY. For an 8-12 hour day.
If you can afford to be on vacation, you definitely make more than that.
He doesn’t need to hear how much you own/ earn/ make. Doesn’t need to see your big wad of cash, then you tip like it’s painful.
And for Pete’s sake…you’re not doing anyone any favors by giving them three of your junk fish (like bonito or mackerel) that you were gonna throw away anyway instead of cash.
The man has to feed his kids and put gas in the boat so be fair.
Don’t overindulge in the party then ruin it for everyone. You’re not the only one on vacation. Respect that other people are also trying to enjoy themselves, including members of your family, friends, etc.
Everyone loves to party, but you getting plastered and causing a scene or throwing up really is a buzz kill for everyone who is with you or is near you.
Don’t be afraid to share. You got extra? Spread it around? Offer.
Got an extra burrito in your box lunch or an extra Coke or beer? Offer. It’s great good-will and, even if gratefully turned down, it shows you’re an OK person.
In fact, purposely bring or buy extra food for your captain and crew!
Here’s one not many folks think about. Don’t lose or break gear.
It happens. We all know it. It’s part of fishing. But, offer to replace it or buy new ones. Gear and tackle are incredibly expensive in Mexico.
Where we are in La Paz, a Rapala is $35 dollars. Good hooks run 50 cents each. It adds up. A small leader spool or fluorocarbon costs $40.
You gave him a $50 tip is great. But wait. You also lost 2 of his $40 lures and bird-nested about 30 dollars worth of line. C’mon man.
While you’re at it. Don’t belittle the man’s boat; his gear or his tackle. Bring your own next time. Most guys I know or work with take a lot of pride in their belongings.
At least the ones I work with. They do a lot with a little and make the best with what they have. Like having someone come to your house or ride in your car then tell you it needs improvement. It’s insulting.
In all honesty, none of the things above apply to 99% of our visitors. God love ya. Most tourists are gems and so much above is common sense and just being decent and courteous.
Frankly, the biggest “DON’T” that I ever talk to people about is not to forget who you are and where you come from.
If you’re reading this, chances are you’re American. Don’t forget that. You’re being watched carefully. In many ways, you’re down here “representing.”
For all the good as well as all the bad. Don’t leave a lasting bad impression.
In almost 30 years in Mexico and thousands of friends and clients, I can only think of a handful who crossed the line. Egregiously.
But, I never forgot them! Others probably never forgot either. Not a good memory to leave when you go home.
The best thing you can ever do, no matter where you travel. Don’t ever forget “please,” “thank you,” and your smile.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of March 11, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications!
I guess there’s two stories to pass onto you this week in a round-about-kinda-way.
One actually is possibly some useful info about fishing in Baja, which is what this column is normally supposed to be about.
But, let me start with the first story!
As a kid I really only cared about three publications in my life.
One was the Sears Christmas catalog. If you were a kid, my reasons need no explanation. It was the most dazzling thing to have in your hands. I should have saved a copy or two to show to the grandkids.
Another was MAD. Don’t laugh. If any of you are old enough to remember, MAD Magazine, I think it’s how I learned how to read. It’s where I got my weird bent sense of humor.
It’s where I learned goofy songs and rhymes and things I didn’t even understand in those pre-teen years. And, of course, there was that backpage fold-out that was brilliant.
My mother, a dedicated 2nd grade teacher for 30+ years would always try to steer me towards good literature…classics…authors…etc. She was usually successful.
Except there was MAD Magazine. I don’t know how she and dad let me get away with that or knowing my allowance money was not being used very wisely.
But, there was one other magazine that I treasured and that DID receive a better nod of approval.
It was Field & Stream.
Now THAT was a magazine that I would definitely save my allowance to buy. It was everything I ever wanted to know about hunting and fishing and all the places and adventures I would someday have.
It was the Sears Catalog for the outdoors to me.
It was geography and adventures, Daniel Boone and Tom Sawyer all rolled onto the printed pages.
Cover-to-cover and back-and-forth. I would cut out articles and save them in scrap books. If I got caught under the bedsheets at night with a flashlight reading MAD Magazine or the Sears Catalog, they were confiscated.
With Field & Stream, they let me slide. Or dad would take it and read it himself.
Well…of all things…two weeks ago a writer for Field & Stream contacted me for an interview about fishing in Baja! Me? Are you kidding?
That icon of outdoor magazines wanted to know what someone like me thought? Wow! Needless to say, I was thrilled. I’m not sure how the interview went or how it will eventually look in print, but hey, I was happy to do it!
Which leads to the 2nd story of this column.
The reason they had asked me for the interview…
Apparently, I was part of a series of outfitters being asked how the Covid pandemic had affected us. As well, more importantly, they wanted to know what we thought of the coming year.
The first part was easy.
I think anyone who was in the travel industry or is still in the travel industry and didn’t get pulled down by the pandemic/ quarantine wolves will agree. Last year was devastating. It continues to be so in 2021.
It doesn’t matter if you were/are an outfitter, lodge, charter operation, guide, hotel, travel agent, airlines, cruise lines, taxi driver…If you dealt with any aspect of the travelling public, 2021 was unlike anything we had ever seen or could imagine.
Travel to Mexico? Travel abroad? Travel to another state? Travel to visit your family, kids, parents on the other side of town?
Are you kidding? We couldn’t even leave our houses, either because we couldn’t (lockdown); or were simply afraid to (contagion); or didn’t have the ways or means (no money) to travel.
No one could travel for essential things like work and school. So forget leisure travel like taking vacations or other discretionary trips.
Yea, we got hammered. Punched in the nose. Kicked in the nether regions then dog-piled while we were already on the ground. Many of our friends in the industry lost their jobs or had to find other or supplemental work.
For those of us in the travel industry still treading water, it’s not over yet.
For us in Baja, things really started to take an upswing there at the end of 2020. Americans were really scooting to Baja.
Mexico is close. It was economical. It was easy to there and get home.
Canada was a no-go because of the border closures and quarantines in place.
Going to Europe or Asia take some planning. Pack an overnight bag with shorts and t-shirts and you can fly off to Mexico.
Locally, more hotels and restaurants and other services were opening up. Airlines were having to add more flights to keep up with the demand. For us and other operators in Baja, things were looking up.
Bookings were picking up. People just wanted to get out no matter if there was vaccine or no vaccine. Covid or no covid.
Then, the new CDC rules were implemented in January of 2021. It required that everyone travelling into the U.S., including returning vacationers, have a negative Covid test within 72 hours of flying back to the U.S.
WHAM! BAM! Travel took another knee below-the-belt.
Bookings took a dive. Cancelations jumped up. Airflights got canceled. Folks not wanting to get stuck in Mexico made a mass exodus for home and left on-going vacations.
But, now things are looking up again. Whew!
Vaccines are being implemented. Moreso, Mexico got it’s game together and erected testing facilities at airport, hotels, timeshares and labs to make it cheap and convenient to get the tests. Can’t lose the all-important tourism sector again.
So, people are booking again.
But, will it be a good season?
I think so. The fish were largely left alone last year. Six to 8 months there was literally zero sportfishing traffic on the water.
Even when things opened, it was only a fraction of the usual crowds.
The fish had time to grow. The fish had time to spawn and mate without getting bonked by lures run scattered by boat motors. More importantly, their food source…the critical baitfish weren’t depleted.
I thnk this year of 2020 will be an improvement over last year. But, it still won’t see the normal numbers and the experts are saying we’re really only going to see 30-50% of the normal visitors.
So, bigger fish. Hungrier fish. More fish. More bait.
And maybe just you out there on the water!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally published the Week of Jan. 16, 2021 in Western Outdoor Publications
As many anglers who missed the 2020 season gear up to or are considering a return to fish Baja waters in 2021, there might be some insight in what to expect.
Will the tuna bite? Will it be a big year of big dorado? Where should I go for wahoo? Is this a good year to chase marlin or big snapper?
As one angler told me recently, “I don’t care what’s biting. I just need to get out. I need to be on the water!”
That probably reflects the sentiments of many anglers suffering months of “covid fatigue” who desperately need a change of scenery from four-walls and relative levels of isolation.
It’s certainly indicative of the number of Americans booking to Mexico these days where tourism is surging and airlines are trying to keep up with the demand.
Even though you might not really care what you catch, it’s still not a bad idea to have some inkling of what might be in store.
Personally, it DOES make a difference! I like knowing if I have to prepare yoke up for a battle with a gorilla tuna or will it be a light-tackle grinner with school-sized dorado.
There’s never any guarantees when it comes to fishing, but like they say, “knowledge is power.” And I like having as much of an edge as possible.
I think we might be in for a really nice year of fishing. I say that with a whisper so as not to jinx the whole thing. Lord knows we can all use some positivity these days.
However, if the scientists are to be believed, it looks like we’re in a “La Nina” cycle that will probably be with us through the spring. They seem to think that’s a harbinger of good things.
We had an El Nino season several years ago that was a disappointment for all intents and purposes. It stunk as it was marked either with the lack of fish or by smaller fish caused by excessive warm ocean currents.
During an El Nino, waters stay relatively warm. That initially sounds good. However, in effect, the colder deep waters don’t rise. That’s not so good.
In a nutshell, cold deep waters bring nutrients to the surface.
Nutrients feed the baitfish. Baitfish feed the big fish.
No cool deep waters ultimately means a slack season.
Arguably during last El Nino several years ago, there was a marked absence of the precious baitfish. Consequently, there was a direct effect on the quality and quantity of sportfish. Indeed, many of the sportfish that were caught were severely undersized from lack of a food source.
I remember here in La Paz. We had all the dorado we wanted all season. That is, if you liked catching 12-inch dorado all year! It was like fishing for trout.
With La Nina, the reverse is hypothetically true.
Cooler waters will prevail early this year. In the meantime, warmer currents will blow towards the western Pacific bringing a heavy rainy season to Asian side of the Pacific Ocean.
Regretfully, that will conversely mean that eastern Pacific will experience a dry season. Bad news for western U.S. states already beset by drought conditions and too many years of devastating fires.
But, for fishing, it could be an exciting year.
Baitstocks already seem to be up. Mexican sardinia, anchovetas, caballitos, mackerel and others are evident.
This early in the year, it’s difficult to tell if the current Baja catches are left-over from last season or a vanguard of what we can expect for the coming year. But there’s reason to be optimistic.
It’s winter and yet, marlin, dorado, tuna, and wahoo are showing up in the catches along with dorado.
Either the food source is keeping them here or the food source is bringing the sportfish in early. Personally, I think it’s the former. However for us anglers, the end result gives us something to hopefully look forward to.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published The Week of Nov. 25, 2020 in Western Outdoor Publications.
I pretty much wrote this week’s column lying flat on my back looking up at the sky. Pretty unusual position for “word-smithing.”
Most of the time, I write at my desk. Sitting up.
It’s in the middle of the night at the end of a long workday that usually starts about 4 a.m. Or, if I’m “lazy” and couldn’t think of anything the night before, I scramble to compose something before the sun comes up and the day goes full-turbo!
But, lying flat on my back, I’m looking at clouds drifting by as languidly as I was feeling.
Lying on the sand.
On the beach.
In the Baja sun.
Some Kenny Chesney “No Shoes No Shirt No Problem” playing on Spotify competing with the rise-and-fall crescendo of surf as a soundtrack.
And this week’s column just sort of wrote it self. It auto-composed in my head in about 5 minutes.
I was just lying there on that warm sand felling really tired. Not just tired.
“Old man tired.” Big difference.
I had just come off the water. Nope. For once, not fishing. Not diving either.
Surfing. Yup. That kind of surfing. Like on a board.
My wife, Jill, and I had spent the better part of the afternoon surfing and using muscles that we had not used in…well…years! I think the last time I “surfed” Baja, I had been driving my dad’s Pinto station wagon.
Me, and a bunch of underage high-school buds on a flyer across the border below Rosarito Beach with $20 between the three of us; a bag of Doritos; and 3 days to waste on the waves.
Yea, it had been a long time.
Surfing muscles are not the same as fishing muscles. Not the same as SCUBA muscles. And no matter how much Jill and I had lied to ourselves, we were not “in shape” to be paddling out…fighting waves…fighting the board.
I grew up in Hawaii, but my “old man” muscles were B–tching me out so very badly.
“What were you thinking?”
“Who were you trying to kid?”
Harsh reality found on a beach in Baja.
But, I gotta tell you, it was a good soreness. And Jill and I had the biggest smiles on our faces as we lay splayed-out on the beach.
No one talking. No one needed to.
The sun rays warmed me from above and the hot sand warmed me from below.
It was like being a kid again and coming out’ve the pool and lying face-down on that warm cement without a care-in-the-world. You know that feeling.
Summer vacation. No school. No homework. You had no place else to be except right then and there. Contentment.
And that was me. Except I was lying looking up.
And I realized I had nowhere to be except right then and there. On that beach at that moment studying some dumb clouds. No shoes. No shirt. No problems.
It finally just got to us. Yea, we live and work in Baja.
“Living the dream.” Right?
But, like everyone, no matter where you are, it’s been a tough year. And this year, it seemed like we worked even harder-than-ever just trying to tread water like everyone else.
Being in the travel industry with our fishing fleets and restaurant, it was especially brutal.
Surely, fewer clients and less business, but like I said, we seemed to work twice-as-hard just trying to keep what we had. Working double to keep from sliding backwards even more.
Almost like surfing. Paddle paddle paddle to get out. Wave knocks you back.
Paddle paddle paddle to go a little further. Another wave knocks you back again.
Just trying to get out past the white water to where that tasty curl tantalizes you with a rewarding ride back to the beach. Paddle paddle paddle. Can’t stop. Gotta get past that white water.
Catch one or two, but mostly paddling paddling and more tiring paddling.
Like life right now.
No days off and …UP-TO-HERE…with it all.
Covid…quarantine…restrictions…economy…politics…elections…unrest. The “whitewater” of life, right? The cacaphony that never stops assaulting you.
So, we just sort of folded shop.
We never ever take time off. But,it was time.
We didn’t tell any of our staff where we were going. Basically told them, don’t burn down the building. Don’t let anyone steal anything. We’ll be in touch.
In fact, I didn’t even tell my wife where we were going.
I pretty much told her to grab some clothes for a few days. Threw her and our rescue cat, my guitar, and some gear in our Honda. It’s the one with the busted air-conditioner and that overheats if I drive faster than 50mph and left.
We drove. And drove.
And made a left off the highway down a dusty washboard dirt road.
And found a beach.
And it had some worn bungalow cabanas for rent.
Our “rustic” cabana had holes in the palapa roof.
Some lights didn’t work. Others had those god-awful curly “economy” bulbs that save you 5 bucks over 100 years.
A threadbare hammock tied between two palm trees. It might have been a fishing net at one time.
No TV.
No disco.
No nightclub.
No real restaurants to speak of.
Perfection.
I don’t even want to tell you the name of the beach because the area is begging for a paved road and some high-rise hotels that will come soon enough, I imagine.
But for now, just miles of Baja beach.
And there were some waves that just begged to be ridden.
And an ice chest full of cold ones that needed some attention too.
And 3 days extended into 5 days of sun, sand, surf, card-playing and just the very best kind of “social distancing” that we probably could all use right now.
Might still be there if we didn’t run outta cat food.
And lying on my back like a very tired beached sealion soaking up the rays and watching clouds moving left-to-right.
Smiling.
And while we were gone, the world did not blow up. Our business did not burn down. The problems of the world were still there when we got back.
We did not miss a thing.
But finding that little stretch of Baja beach made all the difference.
For now.
We brought that beach home with us in a manner of speaking. I brought this essay that wrote itself.
Like that beer commercial says, I hope you find your beach.
Somewhere.
If not on a stretch of sand. Then a backyard. A park. Or some space where you can close the door.
Away from the madness. Close your eyes. Shut off the sound. Take a breath. Find that beach and watch the clouds.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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His articles also appear in:
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