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Archive for the ‘Mexico neighborhood’ Category

“Through the Looking Glass”

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The famous arch on the public pier in La Paz welcoming visitors to the “Port of Magic.”

“THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS”

Originally Published the Week of Oct. 15, 2013 in Western Outdoor News

Here in La Paz, we call the waterfront area, the Malecon.  It’s the Mexican equivalent of “fisherman’s wharf” in so many ocean-front areas in the U.S.  And, like it’s counterparts north of the border, the malecon is a hub of commercial and social activity.

Restaurants, stores, cantinas and tourist shops dot the area and cater to the numerous locals and tourists enjoying the mile-long stretch of beach and concrete boardwalk.

Smack dab in the middle is the city pier.  At the entrance to that pier is an arch proclaiming “Bienvenidos al Puerto de Illusion” (Welcome to the Port of Magic).

I never really gave it much thought.  Just another chamber-of-commerce slogan to welome tourists.  Yawn.  Lo que sea (whatever).   A bit like U.S. towns annointing themselves the “Cucumber Capital of the World” or “The Place Where Teddy Roosevelt Went to Middle School.”

And I live and work in the “Port of Magic.”  Right.  OK.

And for about 10 months of the year, we are myopically focused on running our fishing business and restaurant 24/7.  Boats in and out.  Clients and amigos coming and going.  Flights to catch and meet.  Luggage and fishing gear hauled and carried.  Fish to be packed and frozen.

We’re out’ve salsa.  The  pork ribs didn’t arrive. There’s a busted toilet.  The beer truck only brought half our order.  The drummer in the band is sick.  Two TV’s are don’t work and we have a full house for football games.

Did I just hear a bunch of glasses shatter? What do you mean we have no tortillas tonite?  Which panga just broke down?  Your buddy just heatstroked and needs a doctor?  No, I don’t know where you put your passport!  I don’t know why the bait is so small this year.   Yes, it’s OK to drink the water.

It’s crazy.  It’s hectic.  We’re little gerbils on a treadmill.  We love our lives and are immeasurably blessed.  But, after months with zero days off, we’re human.

We bump into walls.  We growl at each other.  Patience is thin. Sometimes our smiles aren’t as ready or as genuine as we would like.    How many times can I answer, “Where are the tuna?”  or “So, how come the captains don’t speak English?”

But every now and then the cosmos send down a message that gives us pause to remember where we are and what we really do.

It happened just this week.   Rick was on his 2nd trip in two years with us here at Tailhunters.  He’s a fireman.  He pulled me aside one evening at the restaurant.  He grabbed my hand in his big paw, shook it and gave me a big brotherly-bear hug.

“Hey man, I just want to thank you for having me here, “ he said sincerely.

“Oh sure, glad you’re having a good time!” I replied somewhat generically.  I was kind of in a hurry and didn’t really have a long time to chat.  The restaurant was filling up and I was expecting a big load of arrivals from the airport.  My anxiety was a little piqued.

“No, Jonathan, I really appreciate being here with you and Jill, “ he replied a bit quietly.  He wouldn’t let go of my hand.  “This place stitches my soul.”

Pause.  He looked at me eye-to-eye.  It slowed me down.  “Stitches my soul?”

“I’m a fireman.  I see a lot of things.  For a few days a year, being here in Baja helps put my soul back together.  For a few days on a boat and with my friends, it helps me make sense of things again.  When, I’m fishing my reality is simplified down to a bit of nylon string and a bit of bait.   Things start to make sense again.  It’s my happy place.  It helps me do what I do the rest of the year.  Thanks, man.”

With that, he gave me another bear hug  and let go of my hand.  He grinned and went upstairs to join the rest of his amigos already into their beers.

I stood there in my own moment.

Stiches my soul.  A place where things make sense again.  His happy space.

It’s good to remember that this isn’t just about how many fish you catch.  It’s not about “just a vacation.”

There’s often a bigger picture here.  I have to remind myself that we’re especially blessed to be part of it.   It’s indeed a magic place and a magic space through which we pass.  Vamos al Puerto de Illusion!  Find your happy place, amigos.

That’s my story

Jonathan

_______________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com

U.S. Office: Box 1149, Alpine CA  91903-1149

Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico

Phones:

from USA : 626-638-3383

from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:

http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“That’s How We Rolled”

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“That’s How We Rolled”      

Originally Published the Week of October 2, 2013 in Western Outdoor News

You can always tell when people think you’re a knucklehead.  Their voice goes up at the end of their sentence.   Try it.

“You’re going… SKYDIVING?”

“You ate …SUSHI?”

“You’re going to school in…THAT ?

“You went to Vegas and did… WHAT?”

And my favorite:

“You’re going to drive to…MEXICO?”

Followed by the leave-no-doubt-affirmation:

“Are you a knucklehead, or what?”

Love the, “Or what” part.

To true Baja rats, “driving the  Baja” evokes some great sensorial memories. Having taken the wheel several dozen times from border-to-tip and back, to me, the drives were truly an adventure back in the day.

Once you passed the border checkpoint, you could just feel that you had left everything unimportant behind.  Back there…back with freeways and office buildings…crowds and social vampires sucking out your essence.

Now you were in “the Baja.”

Cassettes or 8-track cartridges littered the  inside of the  truck.  Jackson Brown or the Eagles eased me down the highway and my dog cocked an eyebrow every time I hit a s sloppy high note.  Generally, he was more interested in the bag of Doritos on my lap while I sipped out of a real Coke bottle picked up at a roadside Mexican mercadito.  “I’ve got 7 women on my mind…”

Stashed among my fishing, diving and camping gear were cans of motor oil, rope, duct tape, gas can, flashlights, ice chest, tarp, flares, two extra tires, a shovel, extra hoses and, the most important thing…toilet paper!  “Well, I’m standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona, I’m such a fine site to see…”

You prepared for the worst.  You hoped for the best.  Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

And everything including me, powdered with a good layer of Baja dust.  On the dashboard.  On the seats.  On my lips.  On the dog.  The grit of La Frontera   “It’s a girl my Lord in a flatbed Ford…”

You got there when you got there.  If your head was right, you realized that you’re south of the border so you’re already there.  No stress, Dude.  Already there.

You stopped when you stopped.  Slept in the truck, pitched a tent or paid a few bucks for a room with a single lightbulb and a great taco stand out front with plastic seats and a smiling senora searing chunks of beef and spooning up salsa to die for.

You had a general idea of where you needed to be but often a side road beckoned to a deserted beach or spectacular vista.  Sometimes the side road was a necessity.  You had no choice as parts of the highway simply weren’t there.  Washed out or under construction.  Potholes the size of your car.  Rocks and goats.  Cows and arroyos.  You got used to the word, “Desviacion” (Detour) posted on a makeshift sign.

Time was measured by the sun coming up and the sun going down and the growl in your tummy or the thirst in your mouth.  The sun gave no quarter.

Gas was sold by a guy with a hand pump and a 55-gallon drum.  You strained it through a t-shirt and were grateful it was available.  You didn’t argue about the price.  No, he didn’t offer to wash your window or check under the hood.

You drove as fast or as slow as you dared.  There were no shoulders.  Wrecks could be seen at the bottom or deep canyons where other intrepid vehicle before you didn’t make the turn.  Trucks coming the opposite way came close enough to see the color of the other drive’s eyes.  Your fingers always tightened on the steering wheel reflexively.  And eased as you continued past.  You also stopped holding your breath.

And that’s how we rolled back in the day.   The trip WAS the destination. It was the whole point…being on the road.  Whether you reached your destination was almost secondary.  You KNEW you’d be seeing gorgeous beaches and incredible mountains.  You were going to eat some great street food and make new friends along the way.  Every day was going to be it’s own “Kodak moment!”

But now…fast forward in the time machine.

There’s now pretty much a super highway from border to tip.  Mostly four-lanes of good highway.   And there’s mini-super markets along the way.  And actual gas stations with real pumps.  The Mexican government has “green angels” driving up and down the peninsula checking for and offering mechanical aid to tourist cards that might have problems along the way.  In the major towns, you’ll find the golden arches and the colonel from Kentucky smiles down from his red and white bucket .

Chain hotels dot the landscape and if that’s not your style actual developed campgrounds beckon your stay.  Police along the way greet you with smiles and are instructed in “tourism sensitivity.”  “Tenga un buen viaje senor.  Bienvenidos a Baja.” (Have a great trip and welcome to Baja, Sir!”)

Car parts?  If you need them, Walmart and Auto Zone are here now.

It’s just the way it is now …for better or worse.

But, in between all of that, there’s still adventure.  There are still deserted white beaches and aqua waters.  Somewhere along the way is a palm tree next to a palapa with a hammock waiting.  Just for you.  And you know it as you tool down the road.  You have no doubt.

And, the only snow you see will be in your ice chest or in a margarita glass.  Shoes not optional.  Shoes are discouraged!

“You’re going to…MEXICO?”

“Yea, I’m going to Mexico.  And I’m driving.  Don’t be a knucklehead.  Come with me!”

And the DVD player kicks in…”Take it Easy…”

Let’s roll.

That’s my story!

Jonathan

_______________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com

U.S. Office: Box 1149, Alpine CA  91903-1149

Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico

Phones:

from USA : 626-638-3383

from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:

http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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hogar-de-ancianos-santa-marta

LEAVING SOMETHING ON THE PLAYING FIELD

Originally Published the Week of July 9, 2013 in Western Outdoor News

In all the years down here in Baja, one of the funnest things I ever did had nothing to do with being on the water.  It had a lot to do with being on this planet.

But there we were…us and a handful of fishermen running up and down the aisles of the local La Paz grocery store tossing handfuls of everything in the basket.  Money and cost be damned!

It was like turning kids loose in a candy store!

Remember those old TV shows where the winner got 10 minutes to put as much of anything the could find into the shopping cart before the buzzer rang?  That’s what it was like.   Gleeful fun.  Giddy fun.

Store attendants looked on in horror!

Jimmy was putting bags of rice and beans in his cart and piling that-up with cartons of eggs.

Mike was literally doing a balancing act by pulling cans of soup or vegetables into his cart and making a mess dumping boxes of cereal and soap and juice into his overflowing cart.

Terry had parked in the produce section.  He was busy bagging tomatoes and apples, onions and oranges and trying to squeeze watermelon underneath near the wheels.

On the other end of the store, Larry already had some huge frozen hams in his cart.  He had just laid wasted to the bacon, poultry and hot dogs and was now assaulting the dairy section for milk, yogurt and butter.  See, Larry run!

Laughing like a little kid, I found Mario in the liquor aisle putting jugs of wine on top of boxes of cookies…donuts… and potato chips!

I looked at him puzzled…”Not exactly healthy stuff there, Mario!”

“Hey…they’re OLD…they’re not DEAD! They should have some fun!” he yelled back.

I had to laugh.  All of this “largesse” was headed to one of the old-folks home here in La Paz.  Yes…”old but not dead and certainly entitled to fun!”

As soon as all of this was loaded into the van, we were headed there to the senior home to play summer-time Santa Clause…a total surprise!

Every year this group pulls this crazy stunt.  Their last day in town is a “run through the market” followed by a visit to the senior home to big smiles, hugs, and grateful handshakes from a group so often forgotten.

The seniors are so often forgotten.  They’re not cute.  Many can’t speak.  They sit for hours just staring.     One of the gents gets a special smile as he pulls the bottle of tequila from the boxes of groceries and flashes a toothless grin!  I  would have bet the barn that he squirrels it under his shirt and sneaks back to his room!

But they aren’t the only ones.  We have another group of anglers that takes all the fish from their last day of fishing. They donate it to whatever cause seems to be the most needy.  Sometimes, it’s the seniors.  Sometimes it’s the kids.

It doesn’t matter.  It seems that they fish especially hard that  last day because they know that even “junk fish” like bonito will be more than welcomed.  Jack crevalle and triggerfish all go into the ice chests ready to fillet!

Again, the smiles are priceless.

I have another group of good-Joes.  They fish with us and eat at our restaurant.  They automatically put up $50 bucks a head.  They order and eat off the $50.

They order a 10-dollar burger or plate of tacos and nachos.  The remainder is a donation to charity.   If they have 10 or 20 guys…that can be a nice sum that buys a lot of dry goods,  toiletries, rice, beans and yes…pampers and toothpaste.

Others aren’t so grand, but bring whatever they can.

A dentist brings cases of the extra sample toothbrushes  sent to his office. He has us give it to an elementary school near Las Arenas.  A doctor gets boxes bandages.

A guy who sells paper products brings note pads and colored-pencils.  Kids who treasure each piece of paper act like gold,  bust out huge smiles.

Another group collects old sporting goods cast-off by their own kids who have outgrown them. They come down with baseball gloves,  a catchers mask,  some old rubber bases and deflated soccer balls and basketballs that can be inflated again.  Old sweaty baseball hats with MLB logos are treated like winning lottery tickets.

Eyes glow.  Handshakes exchanged.  No words necessary.   It’s universal.  Win-win.  Priceless friendship and gratitude.

Things that we so often take for granted like toothpaste and soap and shampoo are a luxury.   We go through sports gear as fast as we visit our sporting goods store and see a new model that promises to make us stronger, faster, or better.

We don’t give 2nd thoughts about how important something like pampers or socks or clean t-shirts might be.  Or just what a treat a cheap sip of wine might be  even if served in a Dixie cup.

You always hear athletes talking about “going all out” and “leaving it all out there on the court or field.”  Give it your all.  Regret nothing.

Here in Mexico, leaving even a little something behind on the playing field is makes everyone a winner.

That’s my story!

Jonathan

_______________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com

U.S. Office: Box 1149, Alpine CA  91903-1149

Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico

Phones:

from USA : 626-638-3383

from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:

http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

Salt Lake City-20120210-00078

From January to March of each year for almost 20 years, we criss-cross the western U.S. promoting our fishing operation in La Paz and often become an impromptu clearing-house of many general questions about travel to Baja and Mexico in general.

“BAJA FAQ 2013”

Originally Published the Week of Feb. 13, 2013 in Western Outdoor News

As I’m writing this, we’re just wrapping up our 3rd day here at the Pacific Northwest Sportsmens Show here in Portland, Oregon.  We’ve been on the road now for more than a month as we do our annual show-hopping promo tour across the country.

So far, we’ve done fishing/ hunting shows in Sacramento, Denver, Seattle before this one.  Only 2 more months to go and about 12,000 more miles of driving.

As we stand here in our booth, promoting our La Paz fishing operation for 8, 10…12 hours a day, we talk to hundreds of people a show.  We often hear many of the same questions.  Year-after-year.  Although the questions might be the same, very often the answers might change based on changing conditions in Baja.

I thought I’d share some of the most common questions.  Some might seem pretty simple…or silly…or obvious…but as mentioned, sometimes answers might surprise you.  Also, we get asked these questions ALOT so obviously, alot of folks don’t know these answers!

Q:  Where is Baja, Mexico?

A:  It’s the 1000 mile-long-peninsula extending from the border at San Diego/ Tijuana and going south to lands-end at Cabo San Lucas.  It is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the West and is separated from the Mexican mainland to the east by the Sea of Cortez.

Q:  Is it safe?

A:  The  VERY short answer.  Yes.  Mexico is a huge country.  Generally as safe as most cities in the U.S. and in some respects even safer.  Yes, there are serious problems, but much of that is only in certain areas and in border areas and tourists are not generally targeted anymore than tourists are targeted by crime in the U.S.  In any given city, just like most U.S. cities, there are good and bad parts of town.  Stay out’ve the bad parts.

Q:  Is it OK to drive?

A:  On any given day, there are thousands of tourists on Baja roads having un-eventful drives.  Thousands cross the border daily and routinely.   Observe the laws.  Make sure you have insurance. Drive with care and common sense as you would anywhere.

Q:  Can we buy property?

Yes, you can.  Who do you think is buying all these parcels, condos, houses and lots along the beachfronts! Sometimes it seems that Americans are buying up all of Baja.

Q:  Is it always good fishing?

A:  Historically,  Baja is one of the most famous fishing areas in the world.  But…Baja is 1000 miles long.  It has over 2000 miles of coastline.  It has incredible fishing and over 700 identified species of fish in the Sea of Cortez.  That being said, fishing is as different as the species, location and variables such as  season, weather, current, bait, etc.  Every places is not great 100% of the time.  There’s such a thing as a bad day of fishing.

Q:  Can we bring our fish home?

A:  As long as you’re within limits and observe regulations, it would be a shame if you didn’t.

Q:  Is the water safe to drink?

Most places very much so!  But, like many places in the U.S.,  municipal water tastes bad.  Everyone drinks bottled water which is readily available.

Q:  Can we use American money?

A:  In Baja, American dollars are very welcome, but with new banking laws, making it harder for Mexican vendors to change dollars into pesos,  it makes it harder for the vendors to accept pesos…especially large denominations.  Rarely, will a vendor turn down a payment in dollars…a sale is a sale!  But increasingly, more can’t accept large denominations.  So, it’s a good idea to use smaller bills or get pesos exchanged before you come over or at an exchange house.  Many Mexican banks will not change dollars to pesos unless you have an account and, even then, only small amounts.

If you can avoid it, don’t use credit cards. But,  many places won’t accept them because of high surcharges to the vendor.

Q:  What happens if we need medical help or what happens if I have special medical needs?

If it’s  your medication, bring what you need and extra dosage.  Bring a copy of your prescription.  If it’s emergency medical care, most large Baja cities actually have pretty good first response and emergency care.  Enough to get you home after most emergencies so that your own doctor can treat you.  Credit cards  are usually welcome in lieu of insurance. Generally, emergency care is much cheaper also.

Q:  What happens if we don’t speak Spanish

English is growing.  Span-glish is universal, especially in the tourist areas.   Keep it simple and eliminate slang and most folks  will understand and everyone gets along just fine.  But, everyone appreciates any attempt to speak Spanish!

Q:  Do we need a passport?

Yes! Don’t wait until the last minute to get one.

Q:  Can we still get prescription drugs there with no prescription?

Generally no.  Not like in the old days. Generally speaking, if you need a prescription for it in the U.S., you’ll need it for most things in Mexico.

Q:  How is it to retire there?

It’s one of the fastest and most sought-after places for gringos to retire and an excellent place to make dollars stretch with a high standard of living.  You get more bang for the buck.

______________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com

U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745

Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico

Phones:

from USA : 626-638-3383

from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:

http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

Read Full Post »

Shearer Family goofy tags 5-11

Winter is a great time in Baja and a great time to bring the family! As the our amigos, the Schearer family, from Montana found out with us, Baja is alot warmer than Montana and you don’t have to go out very far to get fish like this!

BECAUSE WE CAN!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Dec. 20, 2012

 

I’m often asked why we would fish in the winter time?

I guess the quick and wise-guy answer and knee-jerk response is “Because we can!”

But there’s more to it than that. 

During the winter time, the complexion of our Baja vistors changes.  During the regular season,  the majority of our folks are generally fishers.  Or at least have a general focus of getting on or under the water during our warmer months.

During the colder times of the year, I think we see more “escapees.”  These are folks just trying to get away from the chill, ice and wet of home.  “Just lookin’ for some sunshine…any sunshine!” is what I often hear.

While us locals are bundled up in long pants, shoes, and down vests against the “chilly” 60-70 degree weather, folks from Vancouver, Canada…Bozeman, Montana…Portland, Oregon. …happily stroll through town in tank-tops and cargo shorts.   God bless ‘em, they are in sunshine Nirvana!

But, they are often discouraged from fishing when they find out that so many places are rough, windy, or certain “glamour” species like marlin and tuna just aren’t biting in the winter. Or, if they are biting, heading off-shore to catch them can be a long rolling bumpy wet adventure more akin to the very conditions they left back home!

It’s much simplier to park it on a bar stool with a cold umbrella drink and gaze out over the sand and water or take the glass bottom boat ride in the harbor.  Yawn. Right up there with going to listen to a time-share presentation so you can get the free lunch and discount shopping coupons.

But, they shouldn’t let winter discourage time on the water.

One of the great things about fishing in Baja and Mexico is that there is always SOMETHING to catch! 

Frankly, the further south you go, the warmer it will be and the better the chances of catching a glamour fish, but even then, remember that it’s still winter and most of Mexico and Baja’s Pacific coast faces the open ocean (which is why winter surfing in Hawaii is so great!).  There’s big waves and there’s big winds.

It’s no fun being wet and cold and bounced around.

So…

Consider fishing inshore.  So few folks ask for it and so few of the outfitters or charter operators offer it, especially for someone who just walks in or walks up to sign on for a day of fishing.  Which is what so many winter visitors do.  They go fishing on a whim. 

“Honey, instead of visiting the Mayan pottery store,  let’s go ‘deep sea’ fishin’ tomorrow!”

But, chances are you’ll light up a big smile if you ask for inshore fishing.  For the captain our agent or outfitter, it’s a lot more economical since they won’t be burning up a lot of gas.

 Secondly, there’s a lot more inshore fish than offshore blue-water fish .  Therefore,  the chances or success are much greater for them to have smiling anglers at the end of the day.  Finally, believe me.  They don’t want to get beat up out there on the big water any more than you!

From the anglers perspective, waters will probably be calmer.  You’ll have more action with rods in your hands rather than long days of trolling offshore.  Pragmatically, you don’t need a big expensive sportfishing cruiser either.  You can downgrade of fish from pangas since most of the action will be closer to the shores, beaches and reefs. So, it’s less expensive!

In fact, often you’ll just be yards from the shore.  You will often see the bottom and, very often you’ll actually see the fish as they bite. 

And there’s so much variety and action to be had.  Exotic roosterfish…giant pargo…tough jack crevalle…sierra…cabrilla…pompano…are just some of the species available inshore.

And don’t think these fish are any less tough or formidable just because they inhabit the inner waters.  Pargo can be 30-50 pounds with sharp teeth and gillplates as they attack from the rocks.  Roosterfish can swarm in schools or be the big trophy sluggers between 30 and 100 pounds that have made them famous in Baja and the world.  Catch 20 five-pound sierra or a half-dozen 30 pound jack crevalle and I can guarantee your arms will still be sore!

Another bonus is that this is very pro-active fishing. Since you’re not simply dragging lures offshore waiting for hits, you’ll have a rod in your hand most of the time.  This is a great plus if you’re fishing with first-timers, family members or the kids!  Everyone participates.  Everyone has fun.

And, at the end or the day, inshore fish is among the best eating!  So, don’t let winter deter some great fishing fun!

That’s our story!

Jonathan and Jill

__________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“A Pedestrian Moment of Clarity”

Originally Published the Week of Nov. 23, 2012 in Western Outdoor Publications

It had been a bad day.  I was grumpy.  Not much of the day had gone right.  You know how it goes when you’re out-of-synch with the world.  A disturbance in the force.

It started poorly with no hot water in the shower.

My cell phone battery died.

I had erased something accidentally on my computer.

Friends canceled a lunch at the last minute and I had forgotten to do something my wife asked me to take care of.

The airlines had lost a client’s fishing gear and suitcase. Someone else had lost their passport.

I was now late for meeting and it was my fault.  And just realized I had forgotten my notes.

On top of it,  I just spilled half-a-cup of coffee on the floor  when I swerved to avoid some crater-sized potholes.  The  iterminable stop signs that tortured me block-after-block in the hot sun that blazed through my windshield sure wasn’t doing much for my disposition either.

I was pretty much spitting, snarling and growling at everything in Spanish and in English.  Ever have one of those days when it feel like the cosmos are going to have some fun at your expense?

And it wasn’t even noon yet.

I was in a hurry.  Cars ahead weren’t moving fast enough for me.  Go! Go! Go! I’m late.  Andale!

Someone ahead was trying to cross the busy street mid-block.   Cars were zipping by the lone pedestrian.  No one was gonna let him get across the street.

Serves him right.  Use a crosswalk, amigo!

He sure wasn’t moving very fast.  If he didn’t move faster, someone was surely gonna hit him.

C’mon…get going.  I didn’t want to stop.  I was going to pretend not to see him. No eye contact!  Like  the way you don’t look hitch-hikers in the eye when you don’t want to stop.

But, he came out from my right just fast enough that I had to stand on the breaks.  Grrrrr… Small screech.  Sigh.  Dangit.  I was about to let loose some choice Spanish phrases.  “Cabron!”  “Idiota!”

But I looked up at the same time he stopped right in front of my hood. And in the middle of my snarl he turned towards my car.    We made eye contact.

He looked directly at me and smiled. He mouthed a grateful  “Gracias” with a gentlemanly bow of his head.

He was old.  Or looked old. Grey stubble framed his dark and weathered cheeks and chin.   In Mexico, it can be hard to tell.  A hard life ages people pre-maturely down here.

He couldn’t move fast because he was hobbled.  Badly. I hadn’t seen before that he had a makeshift crutch under one arm. The kind that looked like it had been bound together with dirty duct tape.

His denim jeans were stained and wrinkled. I wasn’t sure if his shirt was cream-colored or simply as dirty as his his pants.

His eyes were tired, but clear.  And in a simple word they spoke to me.  Volumes.

I had to smile and wave back. How could I not?   And I was just about to…well, it’s hard to rip a guy a new one who smiles and bows to you and politely says, “Gracias.”

I waited and watched him struggle to the other side. Cars backed up behind me.  Let ‘em wait.

It was an effort to get up the opposite curb.   Sensing I was still there, he turned and waved an “I’m OK” wave.  Another smile. I waved back.

Some impatient driver behind me honked his horn to get going.

Every now and then, life throws a little high beam into the darker recesses of your spirit. Mine came in the form of a few nano-seconds of human contact on a bustling Mexican street.

This old caballero with the bum leg was  grateful for an unintended act of kindness.  It was un-deserved.  Benevolence nothing. Thanks for nothing.  I was gonna blow by the poor guy as he struggled to cross the street.

I’m so good at turning “inconveniences” into emergencies A cold shower.  A dead cell phone.  Too many potholes and stopsigns.

Seriously?  C’mon, man, I mentally kicked  myself.  Life  really doesn’t have that many “emergencies.” At least, not my life anyway.

In Mexico, I’m just  blessed to have a car.   A cell phone that just needs a charge.   A shower of any kind.  And a computer that can re-create whatever it lost; meetings that need attending; and clients who look to me for assistance. I have friends and family.  I had a cup of coffee to spill.

And it wasn’t even noon yet!

I should be more thankful.  I should be more grateful.  Even for “inconveniences”. Life’s actually pretty good.  Slow down.  Take a breath.  Every now and then, life makes you stop whether you intended to or not!

Happy Thanksgiving from Mexico. “Feliz Dia de Gracias!”

That’s our story…

Jonathan and Jill

__________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

______________________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO


 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

 

 

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It didn’t look that deep! Huge sinkholes often appear suddenly as chunks of road just drop away when it rains!

“Dry arroyos” suddenly become hazardous waterways of mud when it starts to pour.

There’s normally a bridge there! Check out how green the surrounding hills have become after a few weeks of rain in the thirsty desert!

It doesn’t take much for flooding in many Baja towns and cities. This was just after a few hours in downtorwn La Paz. The “heavy rain” had not even started falling yet! Folks shopping in the windows are stranded for awhile.

Happy cows! Getting fat on real GRASS growing along the sides of roads. Grass is an unusual sight in Baja! Note that the cows are properly observing the “cow crossing” sign.

“POST- CHUBASCO BLUES…and GREENS”

Originally Published the Week of October 24, 2012 in Western Outdoor News

I watched them clean up the street in front of our restaurant..again.  I’m losing count.

The army of street sweepers are out.  I don’t mean the big machines with the twirly-brushes like in the U.S.  I mean, the “army of sweepers.”  Literally.  The city pays hundreds of workers to walk out en masse and sweep the street with a hand brooms.  Labor is cheap and they really do a good job.

There sure is a lot of dust…clouds of it.  Kicked up by the sweepers and then by the cars that go up and down the road.

When it rains…which is rare…all the gunk that has accumulated in the streets and the drains gets sluiced out.  Maybe the better word is “flushed” out, if you get my drift, and can imagine some of the accumulation in drains that don’t see rain for years!

Well, all that stuff turns to mud.  After the storms, that mud dries up and turns to…dust!  That dust all gets kicked up into the air.

We do our best not to breathe dust or to stay out’ve the dustier zones.  People get all kinds of nasty allergies to the stuff in the dust.

Whatever is not being wisked away by the sweepers, they bring out bulldozers and backhoes and just scoop it up onto the beach or the nastier stuff into trucks.  Again, a dusty business.

The road repair boys are also in full swing.  There’s little and big rock and mud slides.  Bridges get damaged or even swept away, especially across dry arroyos that turn into raging rivers during the storms.

During rainstorms, huge potholes open up in the road.  Some of them are large enough to be classified as sinkholes.  Chunks of road just drop away.

Some of the roads that looked great a few days ago before the storms now look like the cratered surface of the moon.  They require the deft driving hand of a NASCAR driver to navigate through them swerving left and right trying to avoid them.

It’s an exercise in failure. Your teeth and kidneys get jolted and you cringe along with your car’s groaning suspension with each whack and thump as you hit another deep pothole.   Some are the size of a basketball.  Others large enough to drop a tire sideways into it.  If  you’re a tourist in a taxi that has no suspension…you just have to laugh as your head gets bounced on the inside roof of the taxi!

Others are like gaping maws waiting to swallow vehicles.  Standing water can be deceiving. Some cars going through standing water don’t realize that under that muddy water is a big sinkhole or two or a trench lying in wait.

Un-suspecting vehicles go  plowing through the water and CLANG!  It’s like watching a clown car blow up.  It rips through a front axle or, in some cases, the whole front end just disappears into the watery hole…trunk butt up in the air!

Rain is so rare down here that the Mexican infrastructure just wasn’t built for handling too much! After it’s over, we repair things as best as we can and life goes on. We may not see rain again for a long time so we don’t worry about it again until then!  Es la vida!

I think I’ve lost count of all the rainstorms we’ve had this year.  But, I was just informed that Baja has had more rain in the last month than in the last 5 years combined.  I know here in La Paz, we had one 16-hour period several weeks ago where 12 inches of rain fell on us and flooded the town.

I was once told that despite the arid nature of the state of Southern Baja, we actually get more rain in a “normal year” than say…Los Angeles.  We get about 17 inches of precipitation a year.  The only problem is that it can all fall in one day!

Hurricanes aside…dangerous and deadly…mostly what we get are thundershowers.  We call them “toritos” (little bulls) that can rise up in the afternoons and unleash the fury of the heavens for an hour or even minutes.

Huge dark storm clouds with thunder and lightning rear up from otherwise balmy afternoons and send boats scrambling for shore and folks ducking under palapas and headed indoors as the rain often comes down in warm sheets of water.

If you’re indoors or out of the rain, it’s a great show.  The thunder and lightning can be spectacular and watching the desert turn into rivers or the streets into Venetian waterways are incredible.

Then, as quickly as it starts.  It stops.  And the sun comes.  And the waters recede quickly and the heat literally steams up the standing water.  Life in the tropics.  It stops just like that.

It’s just that this year, it stops then it starts again the next day.

On the upside…

The brown countryside has been transformed into an incredible carpet of green.  Emerald green!  Grass is growing.  Flower are blooming.  Normally barren trees are covered with foliage.  In fact, the desert has been turned into a jungle.   I don’t think I’ve ever seen it so verdant.

If you’re out fishing and look back towards the land, you could easily be convinced that you’re in Hawaii or Central America.  The forrest is THAT thick!

Oh..and the fish are still biting! It’s a nice time to be down here.

I just wish they’d get done sweeping away the dust.

That’s our story

Jonathan and Jilly Roldan

__________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO


 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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For four decades there wasn’t too much you couldn’t find in Lupe and Lancho’s little store. If you couldn’t find it, you probably didn’t need it. But a part of the community changed because Lupe and Lancho don’t work here anymore.

“LUPE AND LORENZO DON’T WORK HERE ANYMORE”

Originally Published the Week of Sept. 28, 2012 in Western Outdoor News

The old ceiling fan slowly whirred awkwardly off-kilter and barely moved any of the humid air that had rusted the  dusty mechanism and the tips of the blades once painted white.   Wohp…wohp…wohp…wohp…

You could keep time by the pulse of the rhythmic blades…Like a beating heart.  Slowing down with time.

The cracked-tile floor had seen decades of footsteps.  Bare brown cement peeked out where tiles long ago crumbled and cracked.

For 42-years-Lorenzo carried boxes of onions and stocked limes. He arranged the stacks of  fresh tortillas wrapped in wax paper for display in the little glass case.  He made sure the one-lone stand-up cooler had a stock of cold Pacificos, Coke and Fanta Orange soda. Some cheese. Some cold cuts and a few bottles of cold water next to the margarine.

He dusted the bottled salsas and re-arranged the dish soap and assorted sugar cookies and toilet paper.  Two jars of mayonnaise.  Four cans of beans.  Six of corn.  Some cooking oil.  Salt.  Bread.  Assorted soups. Toothpaste and bleach.  A little of everything, but  not much of any one thing.

Inventory was not difficult.

The shelves were  of  whitewashed wood.  Dry and blistering through several old layers of paint from the Baja aridness.   Several were noticeably leaning.  But who noticed?

He built them himself from wood that is hard to come by in a land that has few trees.  So boards, screws and nails often did not match.  If it worked and did what it was supposed to it was fine.  He could smile.

Construction-wise…The worn wooden table along the wall was not much better.  It  held small boxes or bags of beans, rice, onions and dried chilis and assorted fruit.  Nothing shiny and waxed.  No “mood” lights to make the produce look better.  Just a simple light bulb fixture globe on one wall.  The dust and dead bugs of ages silhouetted in it.

Lorenzo tidied up the stacks of brooms and smiled at his Guadalupe…Lupita (Little Lupe) … as she quietly re-stocked some cigarettes, batteries and candy bars behind the counter.  No cash register.  Just a rusty scratched lock box in a drawer.

Married for 40 of the 42 years he had worked at the store.  Her parents had owned it back in the day.  He worked for them in the store doing whatever needed to be done as well as at their home which was attached to the back of the little store.

As he tells it, he was just a kid and having an afternoon job wasn’t as important as being close to the little girl with the big dark eyes; long dark hair and disarmingly shy smile. His Lupita.

He still sighs when he looks at her.

He once told me, “After so many years with her, I always have the final word in our home.   It’s always, ‘Si, mi amor!’ (‘Yes, my sweetheart!’”)   He laughs heartily every time he tells that story.  And he hikes up his pants and continues sweeping and shaking his head with a smile beneath his bushy grey mustache.  He has amused himself again.

Lupita hears the story and shakes her own head with a smile and rolls her eyes.  She’s heard it a million times and it still makes her heart skip a bit.  It’s been a good life.

They were never blessed with kids, but she thinks of all the school kids that have passed through. She watched them grow up. They were like their own.  They called him “Don Lancho” and she was affectionately called, “Senora Lupita.”  

Generation after generation.  After-school ice cream bars and sodas.  Pencils and salty snacks. Teasing and flirting.  Little feet always underfoot with laughter.  Lancho and Lupita watched the “ninos” grow up to have kids of their own who then had their own kids all stop in after-school to spend a few pesos and laugh.

Blessed with laughter.  Nothing better.

The adults in the little barrio would come to hang out as well.   The little mercado could often be the hub of  the neighborhood social scene.

Buy a beer. Microwave some instant coffee or a cup of noodles eaten with a plastic fork.  Lupita would often have little tasty chili verde burritos for sale at the counter wrapped in wax paper.  Just a few pesos.  Everyone loved them.

The wooden bench on the sidewalk and some plastic chairs worked well to share neighborhood gossip and sports stories. There was always a radio playing Mexican ranch music.  Lupita’s favorite.

Evenings were the best after it got cooler.  Under the lone street light.  The occasional moth and bug flittering through the dusty glow.   After work.  After chores.  No kids. The neighborhood dogs would loll around the bench as well.  The dusty concrete was cooler than lying in the gravel road that was still radiating the Mexican heat and there was always the chance of a scrap or two!

42- years…there won’t be a 43rd.

There’s a padlock on the door now.  I wasn’t close enough to know them intimately but they were always kind and smiling and easy to chat with.  They were always there.

And now they are gone. No note.  Nothing on the metal door.  I’m not even sure who I would ask.  You just always assumed Lupe and Lancho would always be there.  Now, it doesn’t feel right.  A part of the neighborhood just isn’t there anymore.

I hope there wasn’t a tragedy or someone got sick.   I will miss stopping by for a Coke.

Maybe they just succumbed finally to the big box stores like Sam’s Club and others popping up way on the other side of town.  But those are way on the other side of town.

Folks are reluctant to travel far to shop and fiercely loyal to the little stores.  To a point.  Driving costs gas…and time.  And there’s no one to chat and gossip at the big store.  But like so many places around the world, at some point the big stores are convenient.

But I see more and more empty storefronts in town.  Even here on this side. Away from the big shopping centers.  No one is hanging out anymore.  The neighborhoods are changing with time.  Like the wohp…wohp…wohp of the old ceiling fan.  Time ticking down.

Sadly, I look through the smeared dirty windows into the darkened shop and see only my own reflection.  Lupe and Lancho don’t work here anymore. I think they are missed on so many levels.

That’s our story…

Jonathan

_____________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

_________________

Jonathan Roldan’s

Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO


 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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