IN THE PRESENCE OF GIANTS
Originally Published in Western Outdoor Publications the Week of March 5, 2014
“Look deep into nature and you will understand everything better.”
Albert Einstein
Oooo! Wow! Oh my! Lookit! It’s coming right to us!
Squeels. More ooo’s and ahhhs!
But, then everyone jostled to the starboard side of the panga. Whoa! For a moment there was an air of apprehension as everyone hung on.
But Mexican pangas are built for stability and although there was a bit of a list, attention quickly focused on what was making it’s way towards us.
For most of us, we grow knowing we’re at the top of the heap. We are the apex of intelligence, power and the food chain. Master of all we see. Conquerors of time, space and dimension.
That is, until we’re suddenly faced with the fact that there are creatures larger and stronger than us.
That is, until those creatures are not behind some cage in the zoo giving us a false sense of security.
That is, until one of those creatures is right next to us and literally smack in our laps!
Looking at us. And we touch it. And in some cases, it tries to touch us. And maybe communicate with us?
Something like a whale. Even a 15-foot baby…and it’s uh…its 40 foot mom!
And both were rising and approaching like two big grey submarines towards our awestruck panga full wide-eyed-cellphone-camera-snapping eco-tourists.
You feel small. And vulnerable. And utterly amazed.
This isn’t a video. This isn’t the Discovery Channel or Animal Planet or National Geographic. Or Sea World.
We’re not in the safety of our Lazy-Boy lounger in the living room in front of the big-screen.
We’re in Mexico. The light hum of the panga outboard is real. The water and the salt air is real. The sun and breeze on your cheeks isn’t virtual reality. The smell of damp things from the ocean is real.
We’re not outside the aquarium. We’re on the other side of the glass today. And we’re in the presence of giants!
And then, the magic happens.
The mom stops just a few feet from our panga. And the calf comes right up. And stops and raises his head. And it’s eye opens and you can swear it’s looking right at you with seemingly the same wonder that that you have for it!
And you reach out and you touch the rough skin and other hands also touch and scratch the youngster. And in those few moments, you feel like you’re doing more than just touching. It seems to transcend just a touch.
Two seeming intelligent creatures from different worlds…one above and one below the waters… reach across the abyss of eons and it’s unlike anything you have ever experienced.
Is the little calf really smiling and enjoying the scratches. Is it wondering about the funny creatures in the floating panga as much as we wonder about it? Can it sense us? In some cosmic way, are we communicating? Will we ever?
Whether one believes in a divine being or creator, I’ve never known anyone to come away from the experience without feeling something very special and different has happened or feeling humbled by the magnificence. For many, it certainly gives new perspective to our place on the planet.
Every year from approximately, January to March, the gray whales arrive at in Baja at the end of the longest migration of any animal on earth. Starting at the Bering Sea up by the Arctic Circle, they arrive in Bahia Magdalena, Scammons Lagoon and San Ignacio, three warm water lagoons on the Pacific Coast of Baja.
Once, almost hunted to extinction, they now arrive by the thousands, to breed, mate and give birth. It is estimated that some 20,000 whales now make the seasonal migration to these protected areas. In the 1800’s it was once suggested that they exceeded more than 100,000 in population.
But, these areas provide an incredible opportunity to get close to observe these magnificent creatures. For many, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience and the calm, protected sanctuaries make an ideal place to see dozens of whales a day on many occasions.
Baja is currently experiencing perhaps one of it’s best whale-watching seasons in years. If you have a chance, take a trip. Look into an inquisitive eye of a creature larger than yourself. Be in the presence of gentle giants. And perhaps come away understanding a little bit more about so much more.
That’s our story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter-international.com. They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com or drop by the restaurant to say hi!
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Jonathan Roldan’s
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“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”
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