When I first arrived here in Baja to live, Crocs were the hot shoe and I had a lot more hair. It’s interesting over the decades watching Americana creep into the lives and culture of Mexico.
I was shopping just yesterday and noted that it’s mid-October and, as is custom, Christmas decorations and toys are already filling the stores.
Yes, it starts a lot earlier here. In about a week, there will be Christmas tree lots in the parking lots hawking trees “Fresh from Oregon!” I’m not kidding.
Y’see, here in Mexico, there’s no Thanksgiving acting as a gastronomical speed-bump before Christmas. So, of course, the stores want to get you into the holiday spirit while it’s still 98 degrees outside and humidity is 75%.
However, with increased popularity, I am seeing more folks referring to “turkey day” coming soon. Not “Thanksgiving day.” No reason to celebrate the Pilgrims breaking-bread with the native residents here in Mexico.
Still, turkey is quite popular here. In fact, most cold-cuts and hot dogs are actually made from turkey so a reason to roast a whole big bird is a reason to celebrate “something different.”
It’s not every day folks roast turkeys in Mexico. The markets have some great bargains on the birds.
There is one more holiday that pops up before Christmas. It’s not really a holiday, however, in the sense of a huge fiesta. However, it’s a country-wide celebration that will actually be found throughout the Latin-American nations.
Dia de los Muertos…the Day of the Dead… comes in at the end of the month. It’s not a national holiday. Nothing is closed. Business as usual. It’s more like a personal holiday that just happens to be celebrated by just about everyone in their own way.
It arises from the combination of Pagan/ Christianity/ Catholicism rituals and actually encompasses three days more-or-less. Sort of all mixed together, there’s the Day of the Dead, All Souls Day and All Saints Day.
The religious side is a remembrance of the departed loved ones.
Small altars are built in homes with photos and other memorabilia of the departed. Some can be quite elaborate with candles, colorful table cloths, and favorite items of the deceased like bottles of alcohol, pastries and favorite items of clothing.
One hotel we work with here in La Paz used to construct an elaborate and beautiful altar in the lobby. Truly a work-of-art. They would place photos of long-time employees who had passed away.
The altar was decorated with photos; favorite books; musical items; a chef’s spatula and hat. But, it often had several plates of pastries; cans of beer; bottles of whiskey or tequila…
The problem was that hotel guests, especially gringo guests, didn’t know the significance of the altar in the lobby.
They thought it was some kind of “welcome table” and would help themselves to the pastries, cookies and cans of beer. The hotel stopped setting up the display after a few years.
The big party, however, is at the cemetery.
If you really want a taste of culture, head to the cemetery at Dia de los Muertos! In the states, we rock Halloween, but few of us go to an actual graveyard that night. In Mexico, it’s all part of it!
And, it isn’t a creep show. There’s no gouls and ghosts. But, there’s definitely a spirit in the air. It’s a big fiesta!
Families and friends bring out elaborate celebrations to the graveyard and it’s like a giant tailgate party of a whole different type.
Candles and torches set the mood. Boom boxes and even live musicians add to the ambience. Everything from mariachi, to ranchero music, rap and classic rock can be heard.
Barbecues fill the air with grilling chorizo and carne asada. People sing. Families spread out lawn chairs and blankets on the concrete grave slab. Fresh flowers and wreaths are brought out.
If you forgot anything, food vendors, flower vendors and beer concessions are outside the gate. Grab a wreath; pick up a kilo of hot carne; a couple of bottles of Tecate and head-on-in with your lawn chair.
If there’s more than one deceased, as is often the case, it’s a mobile party. From one grave to another. Families and friends intermingle in a festive reunion of sorts.
They gather. They tell stories. They laugh. They remember. They drink to death as well as to life. All night long. Keeping the memories alive for a few fun-filled evening hours.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com.
They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International
Website:
www.tailhunter-international.com
Mexico Office: Tailhunter International, 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
U.S. Mailing Address: Tailhunter International, 8030 La Mesa Blvd. #178, La Mesa CA 91942
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863
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Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/
Tailhunter YouTube Video Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBLvdHL_p4-OAu3HfiVzW0g
“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”
That's My Story 
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