Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘roldan’

A quiet winter evening on the La Paz waterfront

La Paz' busiest intersection on the watefront...no parking issues!

A quiet winter game of the Mexican verson of "BINGO" in the town square downtown.

WINTER OBSERVATIONS FROM BAJA

Originally published the week of December 29, 2011

I pulled the hood of my sweatshirt a little more snuggly against my neck as the cool ocean breeze was starting to send a few chilly evening fingers down my back.  As I walked down the old boulevard, I smiled at others also out for an evening stroll.  Long pants.  Hands stuffed in down jackets for warmth.  Girls wearing furry boots.  Guys covering their heads with watch-style pull down stretch hats to cover ears against the blustery night.

          Everyone you pass has a nod and a smile all somewhat grinning about being so bundled up.  It’s an inside local joke.  In addition to my hoodie, I’m wearing thermals, my Levis and my hiking boots with actual socks!  Quite a divergence from the flip-flops that adorn my feet the majority of the year. 

          Despite all the sunny palm-tree travel posters and brochures, yes, Baja does get winter.  And yes, it does get “cold.”  For us in La Paz, that means down to about the mid-50’s at night.

          Relatively speaking,  that translates to about a “3-dog-night” up in Alaska where the frigid evenings are judged by how many dogs one must sleep with to keep warm. 

          The few tourists, mostly snow-birds escaping places that really ARE cold like Canada, New York and Montana, continue to stroll in shorts and loud Hawaiian shirts and laugh to hear us talk about using drinking hot cocoa and “electric blankets” and staying in-doors at night because it’s too cold to go out!

          For the visitors that normally come down to enjoy the warmer months, it’s sometimes a shock that the sun isn’t always out or that everyone isn’t down at the beach or out drinking margaritas on the terraza or fishing or how windy it can be!

          I remember a few years back a guy wanted to build his dream boutique hotel on one of our beaches.  He had been a visitor for many years enjoying the sun, sand, fishing and diving for many years of summers.  He finally had all his papers in order.  He purchased the beach-front land and got the work crew to break ground…in December! 

          Revelation!  The winds howled.  Scaffolds blew over.  Sand and concrete scattered.  Half-the-days, the work crew couldn’t work.  The owner had never spent any winters in Baja! He thought it was 90 degrees and sunny year-round.   But in winter…No fishing.  Very few tourists.  After two months of futility, he packed it up.

          But, it’s a nice time to be in Baja.  It’s a time, many of our anglers and regulars don’t get to normally see since most fishermen visit the Baja from March to November.

          Yes, it can be windy and (for us) chilly too! But, generally, the sun is out and there’s a certain tranquility that descends on each place from the desert to the beaches and from the smallest pueblo to even the larger tourist cities. There’s even a word for it “tranquilo.” (calm or quiet).  And it’s a good way to describe it.

          The sun light is different.  It’s more subdued and the days are shorter although the days can be brilliant as a winter day.  Beaches are relatively empty.  So are the streets.

          Don’t be surprised to find you have a store or restaurant all to yourself to enjoy the full attention of the staff.  There just aren’t that many tourists around!

          If you thought Mexican “manana” was a leisurely pace, try “manana” in the winter! There’s no urgency.  There’s no “prisa” (hurry).  Lo que sea! (Whatever!).

      No one’s rushing around for office parties; setting up the electric Santa on the roof; cookie bakes; midnight sales; Christmas cards; parking lot crushes…”Calmate” (Take it easy) is the attitude.  No stress.  No underwear-bunching is allowed!  You will never be late and there’s no such thing as a cocktail dress or an ugly Christmas sweater.  Imagine that!

      It can take some getting used to for folks that move down here.

      Gringos get frustrated because we’re used to the frantic pace of Christmas and the holidays.  Here, the “holidays” start about mid-November and go until after the feast of the Three Kings in January.  So, no sense in getting frustrated.  No one is real motivated to get much done so you just roll with it!

     People sometimes don’t leave their homes. People don’t go to their offices.  For about a month, government and municipal employees barely work or are on hiatus with diminished staffs (sounds like a lot of government offices, doesn’t it!).  So, if you need anything “official” done, forget it. 

      If you need to rush or get something done RIGHT NOW…wait until February! 

     It’s not a bad way to look at things no matter where you’re spending your holidays. 

     Take it down a notch.  Park your sled and give the elves and reindeer the day off. Whether you’re eating menudo or Aunt Mary’s cheese log with crackers, take the time to enjoy the moments.  Savor your family and friends.  Tomorrow can wait.  Put it off until February like we do in Mexico!

     Best to you and yours for many blessings now and in the coming year!  And thanks too for reading my two-cents columns all year long too! Cheers!

That’s our story…

Jonathan

__________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

________________________

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

                       

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

Look out! These gals can fish!

STAY HOME NO MORE!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of December 14, 2011

          “Steve used to leave me at home, but if he knows what’s good for him, he better bring me along!” laughed one of the ladies.

 

          “I know what you mean,” said another gal at the beachside table. “My husband can still take a ‘man-cation’ with the buddies, but he knows he has to make time to take me on a separate trip also!”

 

          “I used to think it would be boring but after my first trip, I couldn’t wait to get back,” grinned another of the women.

 

          Back in the day,  fishing trips to “the Baja” or “Old Mexico”  used to be a manly-man affair.  Jim, Joe, Jack, Harry and the rest of the guys piled into a van with the sleeping bags and an old Coleman canvas tent for the dusty drive or  climbed into an airplane full of other guys doing the same thing and landing at some one-desk airport…if there was even an airport. 

 

          Ice chests, rods and fishing gear were all tied together.  A pair of shorts or two; some flip-flops for the feet; a straw fishing  hat; some t-shirts were all the clothes you needed stuffed into an old salt-stained gym bag. 

 

          If you couldn’t swim in it or rinse it out in the sink, you didn’t need it!  As long as the beer was cold and you could put sand between your toes, it was pretty simple.

 

          You camped anywhere.  Or you stuffed as many guys into an economical room near the beach.  Maybe it had running waiter.  Maybe not.  Maybe it had a toilet.  Maybe not. So what? 

 

          There was always a bar  somewhere and the drinks were frosty.  The fishing was always good.  There was always an old hammock somewhere.  The jokes were always funny.  You ate what they cooked or you ate what you caught.   There’s nothing you can’t eat wrapped in a tortilla. 

 

          If  it tasted good, you made it taste better with more salsa.  If it tasted bad, you added extra salsa and drank more beer.  Nothing that couldn’t be cured with more salsa or beer. What happened in Mexico stayed in Mexico. You and the guys!

 

          Oh how times have changed!

         

          These days, with more frequency, the complexion of Mexico fishing trips is changing.  If you ever watch folks de-plane at the airport or even watch the cruisers and pangas go out in the morning, you’ll notice a few things…

 

          A few more pieces of pink luggage on the tarmac…

 

          A few more “anglers” wearing sundresses and halter-tops…

 

          A few more high-pitched laughs in the mornings on the dock and beach…

 

          Jim and Joe and Harry have brought along Sarah, Joanie and Kathleen, and it’s happening more and more.

 

          And don’t be fooled by the dangly -earrings, manicured nails or floral sandals.  These ladies come to fish!  No longer content to just “ride along” or “just coming to watch,” these gals have no qualms about going hand-to-hand with the world-class fish in Mexican waters or shoulder-to-shoulder with their husbands, brothers, dads, and buddies!

 

          “I don’t need any help when I’m on a fish! If I’m hooked, up, everyone else better get outta my way!” is how one lady angler put it.

 

          “I can hang with the guys and I especially like being able to spend time doing something that used to be an all-guys sport,” is what another told me.  “I started fishing with my boyfriend who took the time to show me how to fish and now he’s my husband!” she beamed with a smile.

 

          It’s a great way for families or couples to have quality time together.

 

          The captain of one charter boat in Cabo San Lucas once told me, “I like having the ladies aboard.  They tend to listen better and you can coach them.  They are not afraid to ask questions.   They have more patience sometimes than the guys and beat the fish with technique rather than brute strength which is what some guys often do.  I’m never surprised when one of the women or girls outfishes the guys although it often surprises the guys!” 

 

          Some can handle it.  Some can’t!

 

          “Some guys get their shorts all bunched up if a woman does better than them,” said another captain.  “But, if you put all the macho-stuff aside, everyone has fun although some of the women are as fiercely competitive as the men and get as fired-up as the men when it comes to who-fishes-better-than who!  Some of the women can really talk smack!” he laughingly added.

 

          “I love to outfish my boyfriend,” grinned one young lady who talked about her fishing trip as she watched the crew fillet their catch of dorado.  “It seems whenever we come to Mexico, I catch the biggest fish or the most fish,” she said proudly.

 

          “I let her win!” retorted the boyfriend with a wink and a laugh who got a playful elbow in the ribs as he raised a bottle of beer in a toast.

 

          In some ways, it’s a two-edged sword.  For many guys who used to do the all-boys trip, the days are long gone or numbered.  On the other hand, getting a wife, girlfriend or daughter interested in fishing with you is a pretty nice trade-off.

 

That’s our story…

Jonathan

______________________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

CUSTOMS AND HOLIDAYS ARE CHANGING IN MEXICO

“SALSA DE PAVO”

Originally published the week of December 1, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I’ve spent almost 2 decades now here in Baja and it’s interesting watching certain things evolve.  Thanksgiving…an inherently American holiday…is one of them.

 

Years ago, it seemed that I had to explain the holiday to locals, but when you mention a “Day of Thanks” (Dia de Gracias), all would nod with an understanding  smile.  An oft-heard phrase to punctuate a sentence  in normal conversation is “Gracias a Dios.”  (Thank the Lord).  It’s not made to underscore a feeling of exasperation as in English where you might hear, ” Thank God, I didn’t forget to turn off the stove!” 

 

Instead, in Spanish, it’s a sincere form of gratitude even if not necessarily religious.  Like folks automatically saying “bless you” after someone sneezes.  In Mexico, “gracias a Dios” is said with a smile, with no frustrated rolling -of -the -eyes towards the heavens.

For example…

“How are you?”

“I am fine, thank the Lord.”

How’s work going?

“Great.  Everything is super.  Thank God.”

 

But, I would get quizzical looks when trying to explain the American version of Thanksgiving.    Crazy gringos.  Watch football all day.  Eat turkey and gravy.  Take a long nap.  Watch more football.  Eat more turkey.  Take another nap!

However, as the years have gone by, the “holiday” of “Gracias a Dios” has permeated Mexican life, at least here in La Paz.  It’s gotten a foothold.

 

Perhaps it’s because so many tourists from the U.S. show up and seem to be looking for “holiday turkey meals.”  So, more tourist restaurants cater to it.  You will find places actually offering  “American Turkey Dinner.”  . (Frankly if I’m  a tourist visiting in Mexico, that LAST thing I want is turkey!  Show ME the tacos and enchiladas!)

 

These days, I do find more locals not only acknowledging Thanksgiving, but also celebrating it on their own way.   While there is no “official” day of Thanksgiving in Mexico, a day of giving thanks and having the family together is wonderful growing concept.
 see more whole turkeys popping up in the frozen food section of the markets.  I actually found canned cranberry sauce and I see now that they sell stuffing mix!

 

I hear families tell me of getting together for dinner during the holidays and looking forward to “Pavo estilo Norteamericano.”  (polite way to say “gringo turkey”) It’s almost the new rage.  It’s not grilled.  It’s not barbecued.  It’s roasted in an oven.  It’s served with bread, not tortillas.  Mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes not Spanish rice!

I still have trouble explaining “gravy.”  I have to call it “salsa de pavo” (turkey sauce), but I’ m sure  it loses something in translation!

 

“Salsa” in Mexico simpsly means “sauce.”

A strange brown sauce that you scoop over potatoes and yams draws looks of confusion from  my Mexican amigos.  “Que  haces?”  (You do WHAT to your turkey?)

 

Still, old traditions still happily linger.  Like so many Mexican holidays, I hear about families still lining up at the dinner table for tamales along with their turkey.   Thankfully, it’s a tradition that is difficult to change.  Moms, aunties and grandmas still gather for all-night tamale-making parties to make the flavorful stuffed dinner treats using old family recipes.  It’s quite an undertaking.

However, with families so busy, it’s more convenient to order and buy them. This time of year,   tamale vendors pop up on street corners with vats of the steaming delicacy wrapped in traditional corn husk.

 

That incredible savory fragrance of  pork, chicken, beef or chili with cheese (rajas con queso) tamales seems to permeate the air this time of year and door-to-door tamale vendors walk the streets either selling directly or taking orders for the holidays.

  

“Si, amigo! Claro que si.  Servicio a su domicilio!” (Yes, my friend.  You bet we have home delivery!)

 

Either way, some things are universal no matter how you celebrate.  After the big feed, you still want to take the long siesta!  Whether you lie on the couch in front of the TV…sprawl on the carpet by the fireplace…or snooze in a hammock under a Baja palm tree… some things don’t change!   Gracias a Dios!

Hope you and yours have a safe and happy holiday season!

______________________________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

Five hours...214 pounds on 60 pound test line...one leg...alot of heart!

Big check aside, there was a larger story behind the win at the Western Outdoor News Tuna Jackpot Tournament in Cabo San Lucas

SOMEDAY IS ALREADY HERE

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Nov. 17, 2011

If you’re in the travel / fishing business like we are, you get alot of ” We’ll get out your way someday!”  or “One of these days, we have to try doing something like that!”

 

You smile.  You nod.  That’s great. Sure thing. 

 

This past week, my wife, Jill and I spent a great time working with the wacky crazy fun crew of Western Outdoor News at the 13th Annual Los Cabos Tuna Jackpot.  Imagine throwing a five -day  party for about 600 of your best friends. 

 

It’s alot of work, but far outweighed by the smiles and fun.   With over 100 teams from around world participating, how can you go wrong with a tournament that has the motto, “FISH HARD!  PARTY HARDER!”

 

Ringmaster and WON Editor Pat McDonell pulls out all the stops as tournament director to make sure everyone has a good time.  The best thing is that you see so many of the same faces every year.  Many participants tell us this is sometimes the ONLY fishing they do all year and look forward to ONLY fishing in this event…because it’s such a kick.

 

This year, Jill worked the papers and stats helping to  keep the tournament central booth manned and everyone straight.  I thought I had the “easy” job of working the weigh scale with Pat. 

 

Not so.  There were alot of fish to weigh!  It was pretty crazy.  Drama right to the end.  As it turned out, it was historic!   More fish were weighed than ever.  There were so many fish over 100 pounds, let alone the bigger slugs.  (23 fish over 100 pounds and 3 over 200 pounds).   I was pretty much covered with fish goo by the end of the day. 

 

And there was the winner…214 pounds of tuna muscle.  And it was worth almost 37 grand in prize money.  Yay! 

 

It’s quite a story.

 

Oroville Henseler fought this thug fish for almost FIVE hours.  He was a FIRST TIME angler.  When we saw his rod and reel, it almost looked like a rental rod.  No fancy upgrades.  No two-speed gears.  No aircraft precision.  It was a simple out-of-the-box Penn 6/0 reel.  His rod…I dunno…a no-name-brand from what I can tell.  Better suited for 20-pound dorado than 200- pound gorilla tuna.  Granted, he had 150-pound Seagaur leader, but his mainline… only 60 -pound mono! 

He refused to pass off the rod for all five hours.  He wouldn’t hear of it.  Imagine dangling a 200-pound refrigerator over the side of a building on a string and hanging onto it…for five grueling hours in the Baja sun on a rolling boat.  That’s manning-up on a fish!

 

But that’s not the story…the real story.  The winning story.

 

See, Oroville Henseler came all the way out from Springtown, Pennsylvania.  Yes, THAT  hotbed of ocean-fishing.  Oroville had never fished in a big-time tournament.  Heck, he hadn’t even been ocean fishing before. 

 

Six months ago, he never imagined himself standing on the winner stage with a big fat check in one hand and his wife, Cindy, holding his other hand and holding back tears of her own.

 

You see, about 6 months ago, Oroville Henseler from Springtown was more concerned with staying alive and maybe walking again.  He had lost his leg in an industrial accident when his shoelace got entangled in a machine.  Surgery was unable to save his leg. 

 

Fitted with a prosthetic leg, he had one of those life-changing experiences you hear about.

 

As the story is told, just two weeks before the tournament, he decided to go.  A big -time tournament was on his new “bucket list” and he said no more “what if…” moments in his life.  He plopped down the credit card and stepped up. 

 

As he stood up there in the lights accepting  the roaring congratulations and applause from more than 600 people, politicians and dignitaries at the awards banquet at the Cabo marina, he was choked up.  I could see his eyes tearing up. His metal bionic leg sticking out from a pair of jeans shorts.   A Kodak moment of moments.  

 

Winning.  It’s not about the money. It’s about saying “No more somedays.” There might not be time for “someday.”  Someday is already here.

 

That’s our story!

Jonathan

 

______________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!    

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

The hidden back stairway in the Tailhunter building. A stairway for wandering spirits?

After taking over this 100-year-old building in 2006, we found it had a colorful history as an office, apartment, many restaurants, a museum, and home to many former La Paz residents...some of whom may still "reside" there!

A BIT OF HISTORY & MEXICAN SPIRITS!

Originally Published in Western Outdoors the Week of Nov. 4, 2011

History isn’t necessarily about events and dates.  It’s about the people who made those things happen.  People who mostly aren’t with us any longer.  Or are they?

 

As I’m writing this it’s a few days before Dia de Los Muertos…the Day of the Dead.  A big celebration here in Mexico.  Not in the morbid sense, but rather a time to remember and celebrate the lives of loved ones who have gone before us.  It’s getting more commercialized, but for the most part, it’s version of Halloween.

 

So, let me tell you a story of historical building.  In fact, it’s the very building where my wife and I run our Tailhunter Restaurant & Bar on the La Paz waterfront.

 

We have refurbished an old 3 story building next to the beach. It’s over 100-years-old.

 

Over the years, we have found that it has been a home many times, an offices, a museum, a warehouse, restaurants; and an apartment to name a few.  There’s a dark interior stairwell that goes from the 1st floor offices to the restaurant kitchen on the 2nd floor. Covered in old ceramic tiles and graced with a metal rail that has seen too many coats of paint,  it allows staff to move between the floors without having to walk through the actual restaurant and bar.

 

Jill and I were working at our desks one afternoon. 

 

Jill saw or sensed the lady in black first.

 

“Did you see that?” she said a bit startled?  “Who was that lady that just went up the stairway? That wasn’t one of the staff.”

 

“Who honey? I didn’t see anyone, I replied. I had been looking at my computer screen.

 

“There was a lady in black that just went by our office door.”

 

She went on to say that youngish woman dressed in black, wearing a big ruffled dress like you would see on an old Mexican hacienda just walked by the office door and up the stairs!

 

We both got up and looked out the door up the dark stairwell to the kitchen.  Nothing. I shrugged.

 

Jill insisted.  “She made no sound!  It was like a whisp.”

 

We checked upstairs and no one in the busy kitchen just above us had seen anyone come up through the stairwell.

 

Jill and I just looked at each other.  Hmmmm…another shrug between us.

 

Over the next 3 years, the “lady in black” has walked up the stairs several times  According to Jill, she’s not scary.  In fact, Jill says she seems to be lost or like a mom looking for someone or something.  I saw her once and agree.

 

We kept it between us until one day we happened to mention it to several of our staff members who were talking about noises they sometimes hear in the old building.   All eyes went wide. 

 

They had seen her too! But no one had said anything. “You’ve seen her too?”

 

She is always in a full hacienda black dress. Imagine Zorro’s wife.    There is never a sound.  She is never scary, but seems anxious or looking for something.

 

And although she was usually seen near our interior stairway, she was also seen near our restrooms and on the terrace briefly looking out towards the bay. Looking for what?

 

The answer came from our landlord only recently. He had heard a story about a wealthy woman who  had lost one of the children to illness and the child had died in the nursery…on the 2nd floor at the spot where our restrooms were now located!

 

Hmmm… our staff has reported that after we’re closed at night during clean-up,  they sometimes hear children laughing in that area or a woman crying!  Toilet paper is sometimes strewn about and raised toilet seats will sometimes fall back down loudly…all at the same time!  Water in the sinks sometimes turns on and off by itself.  

 

The family of our lady in black?  

 

Several years ago at the restaurant, I met another woman who said that she had lived in the building back in the 40’s.  She said her father had been the director of customs for the City of La Paz and described wonderful childhood in the house when the highway in front had been packed dirt and burro-drawn carts still shared the “road” with the few cars in town.

 

She mentioned how easy it was to walk out  front and dig all the clams she wanted and how commercial fishermen would sell fish right on that same beach including tuna and dorado they had caught literally yards in front of our restaurant that had once been her home. A bygone time!

 

I gladly accompanied her as she asked to look around.  She said our offices had been her parents’ bedroom and told stories about how our downstairs cantina and store had been the living room and garage.  She said she had great memories of living there.

 

Upstairs, she said the 2nd and 3rd floor had been patios and more bedrooms and how she and her sisters would play overlooking the ocean. 

 

When we entered the kitchen, she looked quietly around.

 

“This was my grandfather’s bedroom,” she said.  ” He was a wonderful playful good man to be around.” 

 

She went on.

 

“He passed away in this room.”  Pause.

 

 “Do you ever notice anything strange around your bar?’ She said with a raised eyebrow and smile.

 

I raised an eyebrow of my own.  Little prickly hairs perked up on my arms. 

 

“Why do you ask?”  I replied with a guarded smile.

 

“He always says he wanted a bar and if he had one, he would LIVE there, ” she replied. 

 

Well, as a matter of fact, I told her, things move around in the kitchen from one day to the next.  Glasses move.  Sugar seems to find new places to hide.  Packets of spices move from one side of the room to another with no explanation.  Bottles of tequila will be found  taken out…even after they have been put away for the evening.

 

“Mi abuelo (grandfather)!” she seemed to say happily.  ” He loved playing pranks and he loved tequila!”  I think you have my grandfather’s ghost enjoying your bar!

 

And indeed, I think we do!  As I found out later from staff members, sometimes they also hear old rancho music and what sounds like someone in scuffed shoes dancing!

 

Our “grandfather ghost?”  Maybe.  I hope he’s enjoying himself. I   I like to think he’s keeping an eye on us.   I’m not sure what to think of our lady in black!  Maybe the two know each other. Maybe they dance when the band plays!

 

But, if they are indeed spirits from the past, they don’t seem to bother us.  “Haunted” doesn’t mean scary.  I think we’re kind of blessed to have a bit of “living history” still with us.

 

To be fascinated by history is to know about real flesh-and-blood ordinary folks like you and me who were just going about their daily lives and have passed on before us. Like our resident ghosts!

 

As someday, I will also.  Mavbe my own spirit will be found laughing at the bar or cutting fish in our fish room!  If I have to wander for a bit of eternity, it might as well be in  a place of laughter and camaraderie.  What better place than a bar!   

 

I hope I am having a good time  with my wife as our place has been a good space for friends, family, fishermen to meet and enjoy each other!  Maybe they will tell stories about me the funny-looking short guy and the laughing redhead who once owned the place.  Our daily life today will be someone else’s “history story” of tomorrow. 

 

Cheers to life…and the afterlife!  Happy Dia de Los Muertos!

______________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!       

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

Win some...lose some. It's part of the sport. But certain fish leave lifetime memories.

LOST FISH CAPTURED MEMORIES

Originally Published the Week of Sept. 22, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I think I was about 9-years-old and my uncle had taken me out on my first real trip in Mexican waters.  It was a multi-day trip on the old party boat “Holiday.”   I had never fished the big boys before and was obviously thrilled like any little boy. Sky high and feet off-the-ground-excited. 

 

That day we got into a big bluefin and albacore bite.  It was exciting and like a proverbial three-ring-circus.  Bent rods. Screaming reels. Blood splattering. Guys cursing and yelling and big thick fish bodies hitting the deck! Oh man…pandemonium like a little kid had never seen!

 

I didn’t know what I was doing.  My uncle got lost in the melee.  I had an old Mitchell Garcia ocean “coffee grinder” spinning  reel as I hadn’t yet learned how to use conventional gear.  I think I had 30 pound line purchase from Thrify Drug Store.  I had a beat up Roddy fishing rod.  Being a little brown kid,  I wanted to stay out’ve the way so I wandered to the bow all by myself and cast an anchovie as far as I could!

 

As soon as it hit the water, there was a huge splash.  The reel was in gear so it was almost launched out’ve my hands!  I remember digging my heels in and slipping down on my butt but still holding onto the rod which was now torqued against the gunwale with my knees arched and my feet braced against the Holiday’s white fiberglass…and holding on for dear life.

 

I somehow managed to stand up.  I did the best I could to just hang on.  I turned the handle when I could.  Gritted my teeth and remembered the butt of that spinning rod digging into my chest and hurting under my armpit. Forget backbone!  That rod was like a big noodle in my small hands and almost doubled with the big fish!

 

Oh, please! Oh please! I remember frantically looking around hoping someone would come help me. But everyone was jammed back in the stern.  No one missed the 9-year-old by himself up at the bow.

 

I don’t know how long I held on up there.  Maybe 15 minutes?  Time has little relevance when you’re on a big fish let alone when you’re 9 years old and can barely tell time!

 

I really didn’t know what else to do!

 

“Hey, there’s a kid in the bow with a fish!  Someone go help him!” I heard a booming voice yell from the wheelhouse above me.

 

Bodies came running up.  Hands wrapped around me and around my rod. I didn’t look up.

 

“Hang in there, kid! Oh man, you have about a 50-pound bluefin on there!  You been up here all alone?  That’s the wrong outfit to be using for these fish!”

Certain things get etched in your brain.  I remember those words to this day more than 40 years later.

 

I was straining for all I was worth.

 

“Hey, it’s coming up!  It’s coming up!  Get the gaffs! “

 

I turned the handle of that old Mitchell.  It was like pulling a refrigerator up the side of a building. 

 

“Oh wow.  It’s a big one, Kid! Just a little more.  Just a little more!”

 

I peered over the side of that tall rail.  What I saw was the fat blue and silver body that seemed close enough to touch.  The eye of that massive fish must have matched my own that were the size of pizza plates.

 

That fish looked right at me.  Then it surged with one last burst.

 

The rod dug into my groin and chest and I remember my knuckles getting slammed against the wooden rail.

 

And the line popped…then and there.  KER-SNAPP!

 

Where?  Where’s MY fish? 

 

I found myself crumpled on the deck.  Alone.  All I remember was people walking away and I think I heard, “Tough luck, Kid.”

 

Looking back, the deckies were busy in the stern with other bent rods.   They had other things to attend to, but for a 9-year-old, I wanted to cry.  I wanted someone to tell me how I lost that fish.  And why? 

 

I wanted someone to pat me on the back or give me some props.  I wanted an “Attaboy.”  But you don’t get an “attaboy” for losing fish.  My uncle didn’t even know I had been up there in the bow. Where was my mom, dangit! She’d understand. 

 

To this day, I remember that eye still looking at me!

 

I remember Micheal Jordan once saying he won alot of basketball games with last-second shots.  But he also said that there were other games when his last-second shot clanked off the rim.  He said he remembers those games he lost more than the games he won.

 

I have caught many big fish over my fishing career.  But…I remember more every big fish I lost.  Perhaps none more than that first one adventuring into Mexican waters almost 50 years ago.

__________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

_________________________

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

When it comes to bait or any fishing techniques, if it results in a bent rod, it's hard to dismiss it! Try it. You never know!

IF IT WORKS DON’T LAUGH!

Originally Published the Week of Sept. 6, 2o11 in Western Outdoor News

I am often amazed at what catches fish down here.  Of course, us gringos are always looking for “live bait” like caballitos, mackerel, sardines and the like.  Plus we have all the “latest and greatest” technology has to offer in the way of lures, plugs and feathers. 

 

But, over the years, having worked with so many captains in so many areas of Baja, I’ve come across some pretty incredible things that have been used for bait…and they work!

 

BELLIES & STRIPS – Long ago when I lived in Los Frailes, the owner of the hotel turned me onto taking the oily juicy strips of belly meat from dorado and bonito and  pinning them on the hooks of my feathers and jigs, especially my marlin lures.  Strips of squid also work.  They add scent and flavor to your lures.  I also think gamefish tend to hold onto them more when there’s some “taste” to the lure.

 

Actually, even without the feather or jig, one of the most effective methods of attracting game fish is to simply pin a nice long strip of these species to a hook and leader (make sure you have a swivel) and drag it slowly behind your boat.  Bigger fish can’t seem to resist it.  Even large dorado will jump on dorado strips!

 

If you happen to get into a bite of the giant squid, give some thought to taking the whole head and sending it down deep.  I’ve gotten some monster tuna on 5-pound chunks of head.  Smaller giant squid worked when trolled and long-rangers will tell you that a big squid bounced on the waves from a kite are deadly.

 

It’s also  productive to chop the  squid legs (arms?) into chunks and just tossing handfuls into the ocean as chum then taking another big chunk and hook it, letting it all drift down to the game fish.  Often, even when the fish won’t take live bait, they WILL eat the chummed bait.

 

WHOLE FISH –  As much as we tend to hate needlefish down here as the scourge of fishermen, a smaller needlefish slow-trolled in the rocky areas will sometimes really get nailed by a big pargo, snapper or cabrilla. 

 

Sent down deep, this can be deadly for a big grouper around the islands…or even using a small bonito!  Cut off a fin and score a few knife cuts into the flesh to get it bleeding then send it down with a heavy weight and see what happens!  If it’s live, you better hold into your socks!

 

One of the strangest baits I have ever used was small puffer fish.  I often noticed that when we cleaned dorado we would find whole puffer fish in the stomachs of bull dorado.  (Maybe I can see eating one, but the thought of passing one of the spikey guys out the backside raises some eyebrows).

 

Anyway, I asked one of my captains and he said he often saw dorado eat floating puffer fish and that the smaller ones make good bait.  So we caught some floaters and put them in the bait tank.  When we got into a dorado bite we tossed some into the fray…like surface poppers and sure enough…WHAM! WHAM! WHAM!  Puffers were hit faster than sardines!  It worked!  Small barracuda work also or larger ballyhood.

 

INORGANIC BAITS

 

OK…here’s some of the crazier stuff I have seen work…

 

1.  Strips of tortilla cut like a “pig-and-jig” fork-tail and thrown into feeding dorado and bonito.

 

2.  Strips of white rubber liner like the kind you put on the bottom of your kitchen sink so that your dishes have a cushion.  Slow trolled or cut like the back end of a small bait fish…twitched along the reefs, you’d be surprised what comes out to chase it!  It’s a cheap swim bait!

 

3.  A mop head!  Old Mexican fishermen will tell you that they used to troll old mop heads without a hook.  The abrasive bill of sailfish and marlin are like a rasp.  They would hit the trolled mop head and it would wrap around their bills like velcro!  Hook up!  I’ve seen it used one time and it blew me away!

 

4.  Orange Crush bottle – I once saw commercial fishermen leave some orange soda in a bottle; put crushed tinfoil in it and re-cap it.  They tied it behind a panga and trolled it in the wake like a teaser!  I saw it raise several sailfish like this!

 

If it works, don’t laugh!

 

__________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

_________________________

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

It's a dirty job, but someone has to sit in the plastic chair and keep it from floating away! Air temperature 90. Water Temperature 80. Beer temperature 32 degrees.

SO…YOU WANNA SIT UNDER A PALM TREE?

Originally Published the Week of Aug. 25, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

A week doesn’t go by where I don’t get asked several times about moving/ retiring/ setting up a business in Mexico.

 

“Man, you got the life.  You fish all day.  Siesta under the palm trees and drink beer!” is often how the conversation starts.  I have to inwardly laugh.  It’s always fun to dream, but being down here in vacation and having to actually live or work here are different issues.

 

First some general stats:

 

  • It is said that more Americans live in Mexico than any other country in the world.  It’s close proximity to the U.S.; relative lower cost of living; climate; and ease of lifestyle make it an attractive destination.  Studies (speculative at best) put the number of Americans living in Mexico between 125,000 and 1 million with “600,00” most often quoted.

  • A 2009 poll of Americans retired in coastal communities in Mexico showed most are “baby boomers” with 53% being under 65 years old.  67% have at least a college degree.  61 percent are married.

  • Most are financially comfortable by Mexican standards with over 70% having an income of over $25,000 a year which is more than 2000.00/month compared to less than $1000/month of most Mexicans.

  • The majority of those polled spent less than $2000/month but felt their lifestyle was actually higher than in the U.S. with 75% feeling that cost of living was a major factor in their desire to retire south-of-the-border.

 

We’ve been down here now for almost 16 years and been full-time residents for about 7.  Folks always ask us what we think.  Here’s a few thoughts below.  For everyone who’s down here, there are probably several dozen we know who didn’t make it or had to leave and dreams turned into disasters.

 

  • Do your homework.  Read. Read. Read.  The bookstores have tons of resources and the internet has the freshest stuff.  I can’t believe how many folks just seem to “show up” expecting to start whole new lives just by “being here!” Here’s a good place to start:  http://www.icfdn.org/publications/retireeresearch/

  • Talk to folks who have already done it and have attempted to live down here.  There’s nothing like local knowledge.  No matter how many books or pamphlets you read, someone who’s down here can give you immeasurable insight.  Talk to LOTS of them!

  • Yes, you can have a really great life down here, but it’s all relative.  What do you want in a lifestyle?  Do you need everything you had in the states?  Shopping? Golf?  Movies?  Restaurants?  Or are you just fine walking along the beach without another soul and living “off the grid?”   There are cultural, economic, and tremendous social differences between the two countries and peoples.    It’s not for everyone.

  • Living here day-to-day is alot different than being here on vacation.  If you have a chance and think you might like to set up roots down here, rent a place for awhile.  See what it’s like to go shopping; pay bills; get a plumber; go to Church; interact with the community and being away from family and friends back in the U.S.  Maybe part-time residency works better.  Also, there really are seasons!  Most folks show up here on vacation in the spring, summer and fall.  Winter here is not like the other seasons.  Can you handle it when it’s not all beach weather?

  • Do you have some personal medical or dietary needs?  What will you do if there’s an emergency?  Mexico has great facilities, but not all of them are accessible in all places.

  • If you plan to set up a business, do even more research.  My main advice is not to invest more than you can lose.  Be able to walk away if you have to.  It’s not easy for foreigners to operate businesses here as in most countries if you’re a foreigner.  Mexico is especially heavy on bureaucracy even if you’re local!  If you have a business plan, triple it.  The “model” you learned earning your MBA doesn’t work in Mexico.

  • Don’t take shortcuts no matter what kind of “deal” someone offers you!  Whether it’s banking, real estate, contracts, labor laws, construction permits,  immigration; etc….adhere to the law.  It’s no fun looking over your shoulder or worrying.  The law is the law and citizens and visitors alike are expected to respect it.  Just like in the U.S.  If you follow the law you can never go wrong. Plus, being a gringo…you’re higher profile.  Not like you can hide!

  • Learn Spanish…even a little!  It’s the best investment you can make in living and working here.

That’s my story!

Jonathan

________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!   

___________________________        

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts