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“WINTER OBSERVATIONS FROM BAJA”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Baja Rockfish, Cabo San Lucas, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, kids, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexico, Mexico Christmas, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 26, 2011| Leave a Comment »

A quiet winter evening on the La Paz waterfront

La Paz' busiest intersection on the watefront...no parking issues!

A quiet winter game of the Mexican verson of "BINGO" in the town square downtown.

WINTER OBSERVATIONS FROM BAJA

Originally published the week of December 29, 2011

I pulled the hood of my sweatshirt a little more snuggly against my neck as the cool ocean breeze was starting to send a few chilly evening fingers down my back.  As I walked down the old boulevard, I smiled at others also out for an evening stroll.  Long pants.  Hands stuffed in down jackets for warmth.  Girls wearing furry boots.  Guys covering their heads with watch-style pull down stretch hats to cover ears against the blustery night.

          Everyone you pass has a nod and a smile all somewhat grinning about being so bundled up.  It’s an inside local joke.  In addition to my hoodie, I’m wearing thermals, my Levis and my hiking boots with actual socks!  Quite a divergence from the flip-flops that adorn my feet the majority of the year. 

          Despite all the sunny palm-tree travel posters and brochures, yes, Baja does get winter.  And yes, it does get “cold.”  For us in La Paz, that means down to about the mid-50’s at night.

          Relatively speaking,  that translates to about a “3-dog-night” up in Alaska where the frigid evenings are judged by how many dogs one must sleep with to keep warm. 

          The few tourists, mostly snow-birds escaping places that really ARE cold like Canada, New York and Montana, continue to stroll in shorts and loud Hawaiian shirts and laugh to hear us talk about using drinking hot cocoa and “electric blankets” and staying in-doors at night because it’s too cold to go out!

          For the visitors that normally come down to enjoy the warmer months, it’s sometimes a shock that the sun isn’t always out or that everyone isn’t down at the beach or out drinking margaritas on the terraza or fishing or how windy it can be!

          I remember a few years back a guy wanted to build his dream boutique hotel on one of our beaches.  He had been a visitor for many years enjoying the sun, sand, fishing and diving for many years of summers.  He finally had all his papers in order.  He purchased the beach-front land and got the work crew to break ground…in December! 

          Revelation!  The winds howled.  Scaffolds blew over.  Sand and concrete scattered.  Half-the-days, the work crew couldn’t work.  The owner had never spent any winters in Baja! He thought it was 90 degrees and sunny year-round.   But in winter…No fishing.  Very few tourists.  After two months of futility, he packed it up.

          But, it’s a nice time to be in Baja.  It’s a time, many of our anglers and regulars don’t get to normally see since most fishermen visit the Baja from March to November.

          Yes, it can be windy and (for us) chilly too! But, generally, the sun is out and there’s a certain tranquility that descends on each place from the desert to the beaches and from the smallest pueblo to even the larger tourist cities. There’s even a word for it “tranquilo.” (calm or quiet).  And it’s a good way to describe it.

          The sun light is different.  It’s more subdued and the days are shorter although the days can be brilliant as a winter day.  Beaches are relatively empty.  So are the streets.

          Don’t be surprised to find you have a store or restaurant all to yourself to enjoy the full attention of the staff.  There just aren’t that many tourists around!

          If you thought Mexican “manana” was a leisurely pace, try “manana” in the winter! There’s no urgency.  There’s no “prisa” (hurry).  Lo que sea! (Whatever!).

      No one’s rushing around for office parties; setting up the electric Santa on the roof; cookie bakes; midnight sales; Christmas cards; parking lot crushes…”Calmate” (Take it easy) is the attitude.  No stress.  No underwear-bunching is allowed!  You will never be late and there’s no such thing as a cocktail dress or an ugly Christmas sweater.  Imagine that!

      It can take some getting used to for folks that move down here.

      Gringos get frustrated because we’re used to the frantic pace of Christmas and the holidays.  Here, the “holidays” start about mid-November and go until after the feast of the Three Kings in January.  So, no sense in getting frustrated.  No one is real motivated to get much done so you just roll with it!

     People sometimes don’t leave their homes. People don’t go to their offices.  For about a month, government and municipal employees barely work or are on hiatus with diminished staffs (sounds like a lot of government offices, doesn’t it!).  So, if you need anything “official” done, forget it. 

      If you need to rush or get something done RIGHT NOW…wait until February! 

     It’s not a bad way to look at things no matter where you’re spending your holidays. 

     Take it down a notch.  Park your sled and give the elves and reindeer the day off. Whether you’re eating menudo or Aunt Mary’s cheese log with crackers, take the time to enjoy the moments.  Savor your family and friends.  Tomorrow can wait.  Put it off until February like we do in Mexico!

     Best to you and yours for many blessings now and in the coming year!  And thanks too for reading my two-cents columns all year long too! Cheers!

That’s our story…

Jonathan

__________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

________________________

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

                       

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“STAY HOME NO MORE!”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Baja Rockfish, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, fishing tournaments, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Uncategorized, women fishing, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 11, 2011| Leave a Comment »

Look out! These gals can fish!

STAY HOME NO MORE!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of December 14, 2011

          “Steve used to leave me at home, but if he knows what’s good for him, he better bring me along!” laughed one of the ladies.

 

          “I know what you mean,” said another gal at the beachside table. “My husband can still take a ‘man-cation’ with the buddies, but he knows he has to make time to take me on a separate trip also!”

 

          “I used to think it would be boring but after my first trip, I couldn’t wait to get back,” grinned another of the women.

 

          Back in the day,  fishing trips to “the Baja” or “Old Mexico”  used to be a manly-man affair.  Jim, Joe, Jack, Harry and the rest of the guys piled into a van with the sleeping bags and an old Coleman canvas tent for the dusty drive or  climbed into an airplane full of other guys doing the same thing and landing at some one-desk airport…if there was even an airport. 

 

          Ice chests, rods and fishing gear were all tied together.  A pair of shorts or two; some flip-flops for the feet; a straw fishing  hat; some t-shirts were all the clothes you needed stuffed into an old salt-stained gym bag. 

 

          If you couldn’t swim in it or rinse it out in the sink, you didn’t need it!  As long as the beer was cold and you could put sand between your toes, it was pretty simple.

 

          You camped anywhere.  Or you stuffed as many guys into an economical room near the beach.  Maybe it had running waiter.  Maybe not.  Maybe it had a toilet.  Maybe not. So what? 

 

          There was always a bar  somewhere and the drinks were frosty.  The fishing was always good.  There was always an old hammock somewhere.  The jokes were always funny.  You ate what they cooked or you ate what you caught.   There’s nothing you can’t eat wrapped in a tortilla. 

 

          If  it tasted good, you made it taste better with more salsa.  If it tasted bad, you added extra salsa and drank more beer.  Nothing that couldn’t be cured with more salsa or beer. What happened in Mexico stayed in Mexico. You and the guys!

 

          Oh how times have changed!

         

          These days, with more frequency, the complexion of Mexico fishing trips is changing.  If you ever watch folks de-plane at the airport or even watch the cruisers and pangas go out in the morning, you’ll notice a few things…

 

          A few more pieces of pink luggage on the tarmac…

 

          A few more “anglers” wearing sundresses and halter-tops…

 

          A few more high-pitched laughs in the mornings on the dock and beach…

 

          Jim and Joe and Harry have brought along Sarah, Joanie and Kathleen, and it’s happening more and more.

 

          And don’t be fooled by the dangly -earrings, manicured nails or floral sandals.  These ladies come to fish!  No longer content to just “ride along” or “just coming to watch,” these gals have no qualms about going hand-to-hand with the world-class fish in Mexican waters or shoulder-to-shoulder with their husbands, brothers, dads, and buddies!

 

          “I don’t need any help when I’m on a fish! If I’m hooked, up, everyone else better get outta my way!” is how one lady angler put it.

 

          “I can hang with the guys and I especially like being able to spend time doing something that used to be an all-guys sport,” is what another told me.  “I started fishing with my boyfriend who took the time to show me how to fish and now he’s my husband!” she beamed with a smile.

 

          It’s a great way for families or couples to have quality time together.

 

          The captain of one charter boat in Cabo San Lucas once told me, “I like having the ladies aboard.  They tend to listen better and you can coach them.  They are not afraid to ask questions.   They have more patience sometimes than the guys and beat the fish with technique rather than brute strength which is what some guys often do.  I’m never surprised when one of the women or girls outfishes the guys although it often surprises the guys!” 

 

          Some can handle it.  Some can’t!

 

          “Some guys get their shorts all bunched up if a woman does better than them,” said another captain.  “But, if you put all the macho-stuff aside, everyone has fun although some of the women are as fiercely competitive as the men and get as fired-up as the men when it comes to who-fishes-better-than who!  Some of the women can really talk smack!” he laughingly added.

 

          “I love to outfish my boyfriend,” grinned one young lady who talked about her fishing trip as she watched the crew fillet their catch of dorado.  “It seems whenever we come to Mexico, I catch the biggest fish or the most fish,” she said proudly.

 

          “I let her win!” retorted the boyfriend with a wink and a laugh who got a playful elbow in the ribs as he raised a bottle of beer in a toast.

 

          In some ways, it’s a two-edged sword.  For many guys who used to do the all-boys trip, the days are long gone or numbered.  On the other hand, getting a wife, girlfriend or daughter interested in fishing with you is a pretty nice trade-off.

 

That’s our story…

Jonathan

______________________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

“SALSA de PAVO!”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexico, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Uncategorized, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 27, 2011| 1 Comment »

CUSTOMS AND HOLIDAYS ARE CHANGING IN MEXICO

“SALSA DE PAVO”

Originally published the week of December 1, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I’ve spent almost 2 decades now here in Baja and it’s interesting watching certain things evolve.  Thanksgiving…an inherently American holiday…is one of them.

 

Years ago, it seemed that I had to explain the holiday to locals, but when you mention a “Day of Thanks” (Dia de Gracias), all would nod with an understanding  smile.  An oft-heard phrase to punctuate a sentence  in normal conversation is “Gracias a Dios.”  (Thank the Lord).  It’s not made to underscore a feeling of exasperation as in English where you might hear, ” Thank God, I didn’t forget to turn off the stove!” 

 

Instead, in Spanish, it’s a sincere form of gratitude even if not necessarily religious.  Like folks automatically saying “bless you” after someone sneezes.  In Mexico, “gracias a Dios” is said with a smile, with no frustrated rolling -of -the -eyes towards the heavens.

For example…

“How are you?”

“I am fine, thank the Lord.”

How’s work going?

“Great.  Everything is super.  Thank God.”

 

But, I would get quizzical looks when trying to explain the American version of Thanksgiving.    Crazy gringos.  Watch football all day.  Eat turkey and gravy.  Take a long nap.  Watch more football.  Eat more turkey.  Take another nap!

However, as the years have gone by, the “holiday” of “Gracias a Dios” has permeated Mexican life, at least here in La Paz.  It’s gotten a foothold.

 

Perhaps it’s because so many tourists from the U.S. show up and seem to be looking for “holiday turkey meals.”  So, more tourist restaurants cater to it.  You will find places actually offering  “American Turkey Dinner.”  . (Frankly if I’m  a tourist visiting in Mexico, that LAST thing I want is turkey!  Show ME the tacos and enchiladas!)

 

These days, I do find more locals not only acknowledging Thanksgiving, but also celebrating it on their own way.   While there is no “official” day of Thanksgiving in Mexico, a day of giving thanks and having the family together is wonderful growing concept.
 see more whole turkeys popping up in the frozen food section of the markets.  I actually found canned cranberry sauce and I see now that they sell stuffing mix!

 

I hear families tell me of getting together for dinner during the holidays and looking forward to “Pavo estilo Norteamericano.”  (polite way to say “gringo turkey”) It’s almost the new rage.  It’s not grilled.  It’s not barbecued.  It’s roasted in an oven.  It’s served with bread, not tortillas.  Mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes not Spanish rice!

I still have trouble explaining “gravy.”  I have to call it “salsa de pavo” (turkey sauce), but I’ m sure  it loses something in translation!

 

“Salsa” in Mexico simpsly means “sauce.”

A strange brown sauce that you scoop over potatoes and yams draws looks of confusion from  my Mexican amigos.  “Que  haces?”  (You do WHAT to your turkey?)

 

Still, old traditions still happily linger.  Like so many Mexican holidays, I hear about families still lining up at the dinner table for tamales along with their turkey.   Thankfully, it’s a tradition that is difficult to change.  Moms, aunties and grandmas still gather for all-night tamale-making parties to make the flavorful stuffed dinner treats using old family recipes.  It’s quite an undertaking.

However, with families so busy, it’s more convenient to order and buy them. This time of year,   tamale vendors pop up on street corners with vats of the steaming delicacy wrapped in traditional corn husk.

 

That incredible savory fragrance of  pork, chicken, beef or chili with cheese (rajas con queso) tamales seems to permeate the air this time of year and door-to-door tamale vendors walk the streets either selling directly or taking orders for the holidays.

  

“Si, amigo! Claro que si.  Servicio a su domicilio!” (Yes, my friend.  You bet we have home delivery!)

 

Either way, some things are universal no matter how you celebrate.  After the big feed, you still want to take the long siesta!  Whether you lie on the couch in front of the TV…sprawl on the carpet by the fireplace…or snooze in a hammock under a Baja palm tree… some things don’t change!   Gracias a Dios!

Hope you and yours have a safe and happy holiday season!

______________________________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

“SOMEDAY IS ALREADY HERE!”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Baja Rockfish, Cabo San Lucas, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, fishing tournaments, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexico, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Tuna jackpot, tuna tournament, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 13, 2011| Leave a Comment »

Five hours...214 pounds on 60 pound test line...one leg...alot of heart!

Big check aside, there was a larger story behind the win at the Western Outdoor News Tuna Jackpot Tournament in Cabo San Lucas

SOMEDAY IS ALREADY HERE

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Nov. 17, 2011

If you’re in the travel / fishing business like we are, you get alot of ” We’ll get out your way someday!”  or “One of these days, we have to try doing something like that!”

 

You smile.  You nod.  That’s great. Sure thing. 

 

This past week, my wife, Jill and I spent a great time working with the wacky crazy fun crew of Western Outdoor News at the 13th Annual Los Cabos Tuna Jackpot.  Imagine throwing a five -day  party for about 600 of your best friends. 

 

It’s alot of work, but far outweighed by the smiles and fun.   With over 100 teams from around world participating, how can you go wrong with a tournament that has the motto, “FISH HARD!  PARTY HARDER!”

 

Ringmaster and WON Editor Pat McDonell pulls out all the stops as tournament director to make sure everyone has a good time.  The best thing is that you see so many of the same faces every year.  Many participants tell us this is sometimes the ONLY fishing they do all year and look forward to ONLY fishing in this event…because it’s such a kick.

 

This year, Jill worked the papers and stats helping to  keep the tournament central booth manned and everyone straight.  I thought I had the “easy” job of working the weigh scale with Pat. 

 

Not so.  There were alot of fish to weigh!  It was pretty crazy.  Drama right to the end.  As it turned out, it was historic!   More fish were weighed than ever.  There were so many fish over 100 pounds, let alone the bigger slugs.  (23 fish over 100 pounds and 3 over 200 pounds).   I was pretty much covered with fish goo by the end of the day. 

 

And there was the winner…214 pounds of tuna muscle.  And it was worth almost 37 grand in prize money.  Yay! 

 

It’s quite a story.

 

Oroville Henseler fought this thug fish for almost FIVE hours.  He was a FIRST TIME angler.  When we saw his rod and reel, it almost looked like a rental rod.  No fancy upgrades.  No two-speed gears.  No aircraft precision.  It was a simple out-of-the-box Penn 6/0 reel.  His rod…I dunno…a no-name-brand from what I can tell.  Better suited for 20-pound dorado than 200- pound gorilla tuna.  Granted, he had 150-pound Seagaur leader, but his mainline… only 60 -pound mono! 

He refused to pass off the rod for all five hours.  He wouldn’t hear of it.  Imagine dangling a 200-pound refrigerator over the side of a building on a string and hanging onto it…for five grueling hours in the Baja sun on a rolling boat.  That’s manning-up on a fish!

 

But that’s not the story…the real story.  The winning story.

 

See, Oroville Henseler came all the way out from Springtown, Pennsylvania.  Yes, THAT  hotbed of ocean-fishing.  Oroville had never fished in a big-time tournament.  Heck, he hadn’t even been ocean fishing before. 

 

Six months ago, he never imagined himself standing on the winner stage with a big fat check in one hand and his wife, Cindy, holding his other hand and holding back tears of her own.

 

You see, about 6 months ago, Oroville Henseler from Springtown was more concerned with staying alive and maybe walking again.  He had lost his leg in an industrial accident when his shoelace got entangled in a machine.  Surgery was unable to save his leg. 

 

Fitted with a prosthetic leg, he had one of those life-changing experiences you hear about.

 

As the story is told, just two weeks before the tournament, he decided to go.  A big -time tournament was on his new “bucket list” and he said no more “what if…” moments in his life.  He plopped down the credit card and stepped up. 

 

As he stood up there in the lights accepting  the roaring congratulations and applause from more than 600 people, politicians and dignitaries at the awards banquet at the Cabo marina, he was choked up.  I could see his eyes tearing up. His metal bionic leg sticking out from a pair of jeans shorts.   A Kodak moment of moments.  

 

Winning.  It’s not about the money. It’s about saying “No more somedays.” There might not be time for “someday.”  Someday is already here.

 

That’s our story!

Jonathan

 

______________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!    

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

“A Bit of History and Mexican Spirits!”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Baja Rockfish, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexico, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 30, 2011| Leave a Comment »

The hidden back stairway in the Tailhunter building. A stairway for wandering spirits?

After taking over this 100-year-old building in 2006, we found it had a colorful history as an office, apartment, many restaurants, a museum, and home to many former La Paz residents...some of whom may still "reside" there!

A BIT OF HISTORY & MEXICAN SPIRITS!

Originally Published in Western Outdoors the Week of Nov. 4, 2011

History isn’t necessarily about events and dates.  It’s about the people who made those things happen.  People who mostly aren’t with us any longer.  Or are they?

 

As I’m writing this it’s a few days before Dia de Los Muertos…the Day of the Dead.  A big celebration here in Mexico.  Not in the morbid sense, but rather a time to remember and celebrate the lives of loved ones who have gone before us.  It’s getting more commercialized, but for the most part, it’s version of Halloween.

 

So, let me tell you a story of historical building.  In fact, it’s the very building where my wife and I run our Tailhunter Restaurant & Bar on the La Paz waterfront.

 

We have refurbished an old 3 story building next to the beach. It’s over 100-years-old.

 

Over the years, we have found that it has been a home many times, an offices, a museum, a warehouse, restaurants; and an apartment to name a few.  There’s a dark interior stairwell that goes from the 1st floor offices to the restaurant kitchen on the 2nd floor. Covered in old ceramic tiles and graced with a metal rail that has seen too many coats of paint,  it allows staff to move between the floors without having to walk through the actual restaurant and bar.

 

Jill and I were working at our desks one afternoon. 

 

Jill saw or sensed the lady in black first.

 

“Did you see that?” she said a bit startled?  “Who was that lady that just went up the stairway? That wasn’t one of the staff.”

 

“Who honey? I didn’t see anyone, I replied. I had been looking at my computer screen.

 

“There was a lady in black that just went by our office door.”

 

She went on to say that youngish woman dressed in black, wearing a big ruffled dress like you would see on an old Mexican hacienda just walked by the office door and up the stairs!

 

We both got up and looked out the door up the dark stairwell to the kitchen.  Nothing. I shrugged.

 

Jill insisted.  “She made no sound!  It was like a whisp.”

 

We checked upstairs and no one in the busy kitchen just above us had seen anyone come up through the stairwell.

 

Jill and I just looked at each other.  Hmmmm…another shrug between us.

 

Over the next 3 years, the “lady in black” has walked up the stairs several times  According to Jill, she’s not scary.  In fact, Jill says she seems to be lost or like a mom looking for someone or something.  I saw her once and agree.

 

We kept it between us until one day we happened to mention it to several of our staff members who were talking about noises they sometimes hear in the old building.   All eyes went wide. 

 

They had seen her too! But no one had said anything. “You’ve seen her too?”

 

She is always in a full hacienda black dress. Imagine Zorro’s wife.    There is never a sound.  She is never scary, but seems anxious or looking for something.

 

And although she was usually seen near our interior stairway, she was also seen near our restrooms and on the terrace briefly looking out towards the bay. Looking for what?

 

The answer came from our landlord only recently. He had heard a story about a wealthy woman who  had lost one of the children to illness and the child had died in the nursery…on the 2nd floor at the spot where our restrooms were now located!

 

Hmmm… our staff has reported that after we’re closed at night during clean-up,  they sometimes hear children laughing in that area or a woman crying!  Toilet paper is sometimes strewn about and raised toilet seats will sometimes fall back down loudly…all at the same time!  Water in the sinks sometimes turns on and off by itself.  

 

The family of our lady in black?  

 

Several years ago at the restaurant, I met another woman who said that she had lived in the building back in the 40’s.  She said her father had been the director of customs for the City of La Paz and described wonderful childhood in the house when the highway in front had been packed dirt and burro-drawn carts still shared the “road” with the few cars in town.

 

She mentioned how easy it was to walk out  front and dig all the clams she wanted and how commercial fishermen would sell fish right on that same beach including tuna and dorado they had caught literally yards in front of our restaurant that had once been her home. A bygone time!

 

I gladly accompanied her as she asked to look around.  She said our offices had been her parents’ bedroom and told stories about how our downstairs cantina and store had been the living room and garage.  She said she had great memories of living there.

 

Upstairs, she said the 2nd and 3rd floor had been patios and more bedrooms and how she and her sisters would play overlooking the ocean. 

 

When we entered the kitchen, she looked quietly around.

 

“This was my grandfather’s bedroom,” she said.  ” He was a wonderful playful good man to be around.” 

 

She went on.

 

“He passed away in this room.”  Pause.

 

 “Do you ever notice anything strange around your bar?’ She said with a raised eyebrow and smile.

 

I raised an eyebrow of my own.  Little prickly hairs perked up on my arms. 

 

“Why do you ask?”  I replied with a guarded smile.

 

“He always says he wanted a bar and if he had one, he would LIVE there, ” she replied. 

 

Well, as a matter of fact, I told her, things move around in the kitchen from one day to the next.  Glasses move.  Sugar seems to find new places to hide.  Packets of spices move from one side of the room to another with no explanation.  Bottles of tequila will be found  taken out…even after they have been put away for the evening.

 

“Mi abuelo (grandfather)!” she seemed to say happily.  ” He loved playing pranks and he loved tequila!”  I think you have my grandfather’s ghost enjoying your bar!

 

And indeed, I think we do!  As I found out later from staff members, sometimes they also hear old rancho music and what sounds like someone in scuffed shoes dancing!

 

Our “grandfather ghost?”  Maybe.  I hope he’s enjoying himself. I   I like to think he’s keeping an eye on us.   I’m not sure what to think of our lady in black!  Maybe the two know each other. Maybe they dance when the band plays!

 

But, if they are indeed spirits from the past, they don’t seem to bother us.  “Haunted” doesn’t mean scary.  I think we’re kind of blessed to have a bit of “living history” still with us.

 

To be fascinated by history is to know about real flesh-and-blood ordinary folks like you and me who were just going about their daily lives and have passed on before us. Like our resident ghosts!

 

As someday, I will also.  Mavbe my own spirit will be found laughing at the bar or cutting fish in our fish room!  If I have to wander for a bit of eternity, it might as well be in  a place of laughter and camaraderie.  What better place than a bar!   

 

I hope I am having a good time  with my wife as our place has been a good space for friends, family, fishermen to meet and enjoy each other!  Maybe they will tell stories about me the funny-looking short guy and the laughing redhead who once owned the place.  Our daily life today will be someone else’s “history story” of tomorrow. 

 

Cheers to life…and the afterlife!  Happy Dia de Los Muertos!

______________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!       

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“FALL NEVER FAILS”

Posted in Baja, Baja Fishing, Baja Life, Baja Mexico Fishing, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Fishing techniques, fishing tournaments, holidays in mexico, inshore fishing in Baja Mexico, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican, Mexico, Mexico life, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Sea of Cortez, Tailhunter International, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 2, 2011| Leave a Comment »

“FALL NEVER FAILS”

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Oct. 5, 2011

Long before I ever lived down here in Mexico.   Long before I even had an idea that I might someday be living down here in Baja, let alone running a business, I was like alot of you.

 

I worked some semblance of a 9-5 job.  I had a day or two off a week.  I had vacation time and 3 and 4 day weekends like everyone else 

 

And, I planned my fishing trips like everyone less.

 

Early in the year, I would pull out my big fishing “master calendar” and figure all the places that I’d like to fish during the season. Trying to budget my time and wallet. And moon phases…

 

Big red marker…

 

Let’s see…shallow water rock fishing on the central coast…late winter or early spring. Check.

 

Trout opener in the Sierras…April. OK

 

Maybe sneak away for flyfishing in Montana…hmmm…June.  Check.

 

San Diego  kelp paddy yellowtail…late June.  Can’t miss that.

 

July for king salmon and halibut in Alaska. Better check airfare now.

 

August…hmmmm…albacore and bluefin should be running.  Book San Diego again.  Check.

 

September…hehehehe…long range?  10 days?  I’ll try to get a kitchen pass!

October/November…BAJA!

 

The fall in Baja has always been good to me.  Pragmatically, it’s a good time to come down.  It’s not as hot generally.  Shadows are a bit longer.  Air is a tad cooler.  Waters are still warm.  Generally flat with small breezes. The killer humidity is lower.

 

Most of the summer yahoo crowd is gone.  Kids are back in school.  It’s not quite the holidays so alot of places are only populated by fishermen walking around.  During the days when the fleets are out, the towns are empty!

 

Many airlines consider the dip between Labor Day and Thanksgiving a “downtime” as well so they offer low-season rates on flights. And, as long as you’re not trying to book a boat during a big-time tournament, the best boats and captains are always available and ready to roll.

 

From a fishing perspective, the season has never failed me. 

 

I’ve caught the majority of my billfish during the fall. In fact, I got my  largest, a 400-pounder in October.

 

My largest and biggest wahoo have all been caught in the fall.

 

The majority of my tuna and my largest, a 236-pound cow was caught in the fall.

 

Come to think of it, my largest dorado have all been caught in the fall as well.

 

I guess there’s a reason so many of the biggest and most popular fishing tournaments in Baja,  and indeed Mexico,  are held in the fall.  That’s when the big fish are around.  That’s when many of  the  top-water pelagic trophy-fish that made Baja famous can be found…blue marlin…black marlin…sailfish…yellowfin tuna…wahoo…dorado…and others.

 

Had you the luxury, you could literally hop from one tournament to the other.  One stops.  Another begins.  I know some semi-professional tournament teams and that’s what they literally do.  They  zoom from one tournament to the other.  You could probably just stay in Cabo San Lucas and between September and November participate in a virtual assembly line of tournaments and never leave the city except to go fishing.

 

In many circles, Southern California comes to mind, once Labor day has gone, so do the fishermen.  Well, the fish don’t simply stop biting because the calendar says summer is over.  At least as far as Baja is concerned, the end of summer marks the beginning of some of the best fishing around!

That’s my story

Jonathan

 

____________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!    

 

____________________________________

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

 

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BAD FISH!

Posted in Baja Fishing, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Tailhunter International, tagged , , , , , , on July 2, 2010| Leave a Comment »

SAILFISH READY FOR RELEASE!

BAD FISH!

Originally published in Western Outdoor News the Week of July 6, 2010

We’ve certainly come a long way in the years since I started working down here in the mid-90’s.  I hate to admit it, but I’m a slave to technology. 

Back “in the day” when I was an attorney, I refused to buy a cell phone.  Well, in those days, it was the genesis of the cell phone rage and “portable” and “car phones” were big cumbersome things.  But, I would have none of that.

Now, here I am running a fishing business, a bar, a  restaurant and I have 3 cell phones, 3 computers and any other techno-gizmo that can help me be faster, more accurate and more productive.

So…now, I can even  sit out on the water with my Blackberry.  Ho-hum. Roll my eyes.

And in between tying rigs for clients; gaffing fish; or other boat-like things, I’m tapping away with my thumbs.  The world is at my fingertips and conversely, I can no longer escape from the world either.

“Hey Jonathan, how’s the fishing?”

“Can I book a group of 10 in two weeks?”

“What’s the best place to eat tacos in La Paz?”

“So, are you on the water right now? ”

I gaff a fish…I answer an e-mail.  I tie a hook…I answer an e-mail. More often than not, my response is, “I’m on a boat and the client has the fish up next to the boat.  I gotta go!  Will write you more later!” At least, I’m prompt!

A few minutes later, I  might check the funny response.”Jonathan, I hate you.  I’m in my office cubicle/ traffic/ board meeting/ etc.  right now.  I really hate you that you’re on the water! Wish I was there!”

Keeps it fun!

But a couple of weeks ago, in response to a client asking me how the fishing was going, I told him that I had a 13-year-old boy tied onto his first marlin and having a blast.

“Is it a good marlin?” asked the client.

Rather pre-occupied at the moment, I guess I read the text message too literally.

“What do you mean a ‘good’ marlin?” I tapped back as I helped coach the youngster pull on the big fish.

“Well, some marlin are better than others!” he responded.  “Is it big?  A blue? A striped marlin?”  A small marlin?”  That’s what I mean by asking if it’s a ‘good’ fish.”

Oh, uh…..I guess I had been concentrating on the job at hand. I had taken the question too literally.

It was a searing mid-day sun dripping down on us the way only the Baja sun can melt around you .  Thick as syrup.  Water rays blazing up in reflection.  We were soaked in sweat and that was nothing compared to the young boy grimacing and pulling like the world depended on him getting this big fish.  Flushed with excitement, sunburn and strain.  Arms getting a bit shaky.  T-shirt smudge stained with salt and perspiration.

“Breathe!  Take a breath!” I would laughingly instruct.  “Let the rod and reel do the work for you!”

He’d just look at me and give a tight-lipped smile. Trying hard to concentrate.  Small sensation of panic each time the fish pulled out more line than he was reeling in.  I could read his silent screaming pleading thoughts…”oh no…not again…c’mon…my arms hurt…oh please oh please…I can’t turn the handle…I’m so thirsty…I am NOT going to lose…oh not again…stop…please stop.”

It was nothing compared to the look on dad’s face.  Beaming. Ten feet tall.

 Son’s first fish.  Father and son trip.  That’s MY boy.  C’mon son.  You can do it.  There you go.  Don’t give up.  A little harder.  Keep the rod tip up.  Oh please oh please let him catch this fish. Atta boy! 

He wants to hard to help.  But knows he can’t.  Knows his boy is hurting, but that’s part of it…the ritual.  Doesn’t dare think about the alternative of disappointment. Doesn’t want to over-coach and confuse the kid.  Doesn’t want to jinx it.  He’s biting his own lip.  C’mon son. C’mon.  You can do it!

I can hear it all.  I can see it all. But I’m really the only one doing any talking.  But, I can read all the emotions. 

A drawn-out agonizing battle.

And then it’s here.  Oh my!!! What a catch.  What a fish.  Look at the colors!  What elation and exhaustion.  Kid is ready to drop.  Arms are limp and trembling.  He can’t believe it. Dad yelling more than the kid. Hugging and high-fiving the tired arms of his son. 

“Wow, Son!…that’s gonna taste so good!  Let’s take some photos.  Let’s get a mount. Wait until mom and your sister see this!  Get the gaff.”

“Dad’, let’s release this.  It’s a beautiful fish.  It fought well.  I want to let it go.  Is that OK?”   says the son quietly.

Silence.  A pause.  A breath.  We all look around.  “Are you sure?  This is a lifetime fish.  Your first.”

“Yea dad…it’s tired.  I’m tired.  Let’s let it go.”

“Of course, son. You bet.” says Dad quietly.

And the fish swims away after a gentle release.  And the father looks at the son. Son at father.  Not sure who is prouder.

I get on my blackberry.  I begin to tap tap tap.

“There’s no such thing as a bad fish. They are all good fish. Some are just better than others. We’re headed back to the beach now.  I have something much better than a marlin in the panga right now. Out.”

Jonathan Roldan has been the Baja Editor for Western Outdoor News since 2004.  He lives with his wife, Jill, in La Paz, Baja Sur where they run their fishing operation www.tailhunter-international.com since the mid-90’s as well as the Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the historic La Paz waterfront.  He can be reached directly via e-mail at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com

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