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Posts Tagged ‘mexican life’

CUSTOMS AND HOLIDAYS ARE CHANGING IN MEXICO

“SALSA DE PAVO”

Originally published the week of December 1, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I’ve spent almost 2 decades now here in Baja and it’s interesting watching certain things evolve.  Thanksgiving…an inherently American holiday…is one of them.

 

Years ago, it seemed that I had to explain the holiday to locals, but when you mention a “Day of Thanks” (Dia de Gracias), all would nod with an understanding  smile.  An oft-heard phrase to punctuate a sentence  in normal conversation is “Gracias a Dios.”  (Thank the Lord).  It’s not made to underscore a feeling of exasperation as in English where you might hear, ” Thank God, I didn’t forget to turn off the stove!” 

 

Instead, in Spanish, it’s a sincere form of gratitude even if not necessarily religious.  Like folks automatically saying “bless you” after someone sneezes.  In Mexico, “gracias a Dios” is said with a smile, with no frustrated rolling -of -the -eyes towards the heavens.

For example…

“How are you?”

“I am fine, thank the Lord.”

How’s work going?

“Great.  Everything is super.  Thank God.”

 

But, I would get quizzical looks when trying to explain the American version of Thanksgiving.    Crazy gringos.  Watch football all day.  Eat turkey and gravy.  Take a long nap.  Watch more football.  Eat more turkey.  Take another nap!

However, as the years have gone by, the “holiday” of “Gracias a Dios” has permeated Mexican life, at least here in La Paz.  It’s gotten a foothold.

 

Perhaps it’s because so many tourists from the U.S. show up and seem to be looking for “holiday turkey meals.”  So, more tourist restaurants cater to it.  You will find places actually offering  “American Turkey Dinner.”  . (Frankly if I’m  a tourist visiting in Mexico, that LAST thing I want is turkey!  Show ME the tacos and enchiladas!)

 

These days, I do find more locals not only acknowledging Thanksgiving, but also celebrating it on their own way.   While there is no “official” day of Thanksgiving in Mexico, a day of giving thanks and having the family together is wonderful growing concept.
 see more whole turkeys popping up in the frozen food section of the markets.  I actually found canned cranberry sauce and I see now that they sell stuffing mix!

 

I hear families tell me of getting together for dinner during the holidays and looking forward to “Pavo estilo Norteamericano.”  (polite way to say “gringo turkey”) It’s almost the new rage.  It’s not grilled.  It’s not barbecued.  It’s roasted in an oven.  It’s served with bread, not tortillas.  Mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes not Spanish rice!

I still have trouble explaining “gravy.”  I have to call it “salsa de pavo” (turkey sauce), but I’ m sure  it loses something in translation!

 

“Salsa” in Mexico simpsly means “sauce.”

A strange brown sauce that you scoop over potatoes and yams draws looks of confusion from  my Mexican amigos.  “Que  haces?”  (You do WHAT to your turkey?)

 

Still, old traditions still happily linger.  Like so many Mexican holidays, I hear about families still lining up at the dinner table for tamales along with their turkey.   Thankfully, it’s a tradition that is difficult to change.  Moms, aunties and grandmas still gather for all-night tamale-making parties to make the flavorful stuffed dinner treats using old family recipes.  It’s quite an undertaking.

However, with families so busy, it’s more convenient to order and buy them. This time of year,   tamale vendors pop up on street corners with vats of the steaming delicacy wrapped in traditional corn husk.

 

That incredible savory fragrance of  pork, chicken, beef or chili with cheese (rajas con queso) tamales seems to permeate the air this time of year and door-to-door tamale vendors walk the streets either selling directly or taking orders for the holidays.

  

“Si, amigo! Claro que si.  Servicio a su domicilio!” (Yes, my friend.  You bet we have home delivery!)

 

Either way, some things are universal no matter how you celebrate.  After the big feed, you still want to take the long siesta!  Whether you lie on the couch in front of the TV…sprawl on the carpet by the fireplace…or snooze in a hammock under a Baja palm tree… some things don’t change!   Gracias a Dios!

Hope you and yours have a safe and happy holiday season!

______________________________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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Five hours...214 pounds on 60 pound test line...one leg...alot of heart!

Big check aside, there was a larger story behind the win at the Western Outdoor News Tuna Jackpot Tournament in Cabo San Lucas

SOMEDAY IS ALREADY HERE

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Nov. 17, 2011

If you’re in the travel / fishing business like we are, you get alot of ” We’ll get out your way someday!”  or “One of these days, we have to try doing something like that!”

 

You smile.  You nod.  That’s great. Sure thing. 

 

This past week, my wife, Jill and I spent a great time working with the wacky crazy fun crew of Western Outdoor News at the 13th Annual Los Cabos Tuna Jackpot.  Imagine throwing a five -day  party for about 600 of your best friends. 

 

It’s alot of work, but far outweighed by the smiles and fun.   With over 100 teams from around world participating, how can you go wrong with a tournament that has the motto, “FISH HARD!  PARTY HARDER!”

 

Ringmaster and WON Editor Pat McDonell pulls out all the stops as tournament director to make sure everyone has a good time.  The best thing is that you see so many of the same faces every year.  Many participants tell us this is sometimes the ONLY fishing they do all year and look forward to ONLY fishing in this event…because it’s such a kick.

 

This year, Jill worked the papers and stats helping to  keep the tournament central booth manned and everyone straight.  I thought I had the “easy” job of working the weigh scale with Pat. 

 

Not so.  There were alot of fish to weigh!  It was pretty crazy.  Drama right to the end.  As it turned out, it was historic!   More fish were weighed than ever.  There were so many fish over 100 pounds, let alone the bigger slugs.  (23 fish over 100 pounds and 3 over 200 pounds).   I was pretty much covered with fish goo by the end of the day. 

 

And there was the winner…214 pounds of tuna muscle.  And it was worth almost 37 grand in prize money.  Yay! 

 

It’s quite a story.

 

Oroville Henseler fought this thug fish for almost FIVE hours.  He was a FIRST TIME angler.  When we saw his rod and reel, it almost looked like a rental rod.  No fancy upgrades.  No two-speed gears.  No aircraft precision.  It was a simple out-of-the-box Penn 6/0 reel.  His rod…I dunno…a no-name-brand from what I can tell.  Better suited for 20-pound dorado than 200- pound gorilla tuna.  Granted, he had 150-pound Seagaur leader, but his mainline… only 60 -pound mono! 

He refused to pass off the rod for all five hours.  He wouldn’t hear of it.  Imagine dangling a 200-pound refrigerator over the side of a building on a string and hanging onto it…for five grueling hours in the Baja sun on a rolling boat.  That’s manning-up on a fish!

 

But that’s not the story…the real story.  The winning story.

 

See, Oroville Henseler came all the way out from Springtown, Pennsylvania.  Yes, THAT  hotbed of ocean-fishing.  Oroville had never fished in a big-time tournament.  Heck, he hadn’t even been ocean fishing before. 

 

Six months ago, he never imagined himself standing on the winner stage with a big fat check in one hand and his wife, Cindy, holding his other hand and holding back tears of her own.

 

You see, about 6 months ago, Oroville Henseler from Springtown was more concerned with staying alive and maybe walking again.  He had lost his leg in an industrial accident when his shoelace got entangled in a machine.  Surgery was unable to save his leg. 

 

Fitted with a prosthetic leg, he had one of those life-changing experiences you hear about.

 

As the story is told, just two weeks before the tournament, he decided to go.  A big -time tournament was on his new “bucket list” and he said no more “what if…” moments in his life.  He plopped down the credit card and stepped up. 

 

As he stood up there in the lights accepting  the roaring congratulations and applause from more than 600 people, politicians and dignitaries at the awards banquet at the Cabo marina, he was choked up.  I could see his eyes tearing up. His metal bionic leg sticking out from a pair of jeans shorts.   A Kodak moment of moments.  

 

Winning.  It’s not about the money. It’s about saying “No more somedays.” There might not be time for “someday.”  Someday is already here.

 

That’s our story!

Jonathan

 

______________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!    

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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The hidden back stairway in the Tailhunter building. A stairway for wandering spirits?

After taking over this 100-year-old building in 2006, we found it had a colorful history as an office, apartment, many restaurants, a museum, and home to many former La Paz residents...some of whom may still "reside" there!

A BIT OF HISTORY & MEXICAN SPIRITS!

Originally Published in Western Outdoors the Week of Nov. 4, 2011

History isn’t necessarily about events and dates.  It’s about the people who made those things happen.  People who mostly aren’t with us any longer.  Or are they?

 

As I’m writing this it’s a few days before Dia de Los Muertos…the Day of the Dead.  A big celebration here in Mexico.  Not in the morbid sense, but rather a time to remember and celebrate the lives of loved ones who have gone before us.  It’s getting more commercialized, but for the most part, it’s version of Halloween.

 

So, let me tell you a story of historical building.  In fact, it’s the very building where my wife and I run our Tailhunter Restaurant & Bar on the La Paz waterfront.

 

We have refurbished an old 3 story building next to the beach. It’s over 100-years-old.

 

Over the years, we have found that it has been a home many times, an offices, a museum, a warehouse, restaurants; and an apartment to name a few.  There’s a dark interior stairwell that goes from the 1st floor offices to the restaurant kitchen on the 2nd floor. Covered in old ceramic tiles and graced with a metal rail that has seen too many coats of paint,  it allows staff to move between the floors without having to walk through the actual restaurant and bar.

 

Jill and I were working at our desks one afternoon. 

 

Jill saw or sensed the lady in black first.

 

“Did you see that?” she said a bit startled?  “Who was that lady that just went up the stairway? That wasn’t one of the staff.”

 

“Who honey? I didn’t see anyone, I replied. I had been looking at my computer screen.

 

“There was a lady in black that just went by our office door.”

 

She went on to say that youngish woman dressed in black, wearing a big ruffled dress like you would see on an old Mexican hacienda just walked by the office door and up the stairs!

 

We both got up and looked out the door up the dark stairwell to the kitchen.  Nothing. I shrugged.

 

Jill insisted.  “She made no sound!  It was like a whisp.”

 

We checked upstairs and no one in the busy kitchen just above us had seen anyone come up through the stairwell.

 

Jill and I just looked at each other.  Hmmmm…another shrug between us.

 

Over the next 3 years, the “lady in black” has walked up the stairs several times  According to Jill, she’s not scary.  In fact, Jill says she seems to be lost or like a mom looking for someone or something.  I saw her once and agree.

 

We kept it between us until one day we happened to mention it to several of our staff members who were talking about noises they sometimes hear in the old building.   All eyes went wide. 

 

They had seen her too! But no one had said anything. “You’ve seen her too?”

 

She is always in a full hacienda black dress. Imagine Zorro’s wife.    There is never a sound.  She is never scary, but seems anxious or looking for something.

 

And although she was usually seen near our interior stairway, she was also seen near our restrooms and on the terrace briefly looking out towards the bay. Looking for what?

 

The answer came from our landlord only recently. He had heard a story about a wealthy woman who  had lost one of the children to illness and the child had died in the nursery…on the 2nd floor at the spot where our restrooms were now located!

 

Hmmm… our staff has reported that after we’re closed at night during clean-up,  they sometimes hear children laughing in that area or a woman crying!  Toilet paper is sometimes strewn about and raised toilet seats will sometimes fall back down loudly…all at the same time!  Water in the sinks sometimes turns on and off by itself.  

 

The family of our lady in black?  

 

Several years ago at the restaurant, I met another woman who said that she had lived in the building back in the 40’s.  She said her father had been the director of customs for the City of La Paz and described wonderful childhood in the house when the highway in front had been packed dirt and burro-drawn carts still shared the “road” with the few cars in town.

 

She mentioned how easy it was to walk out  front and dig all the clams she wanted and how commercial fishermen would sell fish right on that same beach including tuna and dorado they had caught literally yards in front of our restaurant that had once been her home. A bygone time!

 

I gladly accompanied her as she asked to look around.  She said our offices had been her parents’ bedroom and told stories about how our downstairs cantina and store had been the living room and garage.  She said she had great memories of living there.

 

Upstairs, she said the 2nd and 3rd floor had been patios and more bedrooms and how she and her sisters would play overlooking the ocean. 

 

When we entered the kitchen, she looked quietly around.

 

“This was my grandfather’s bedroom,” she said.  ” He was a wonderful playful good man to be around.” 

 

She went on.

 

“He passed away in this room.”  Pause.

 

 “Do you ever notice anything strange around your bar?’ She said with a raised eyebrow and smile.

 

I raised an eyebrow of my own.  Little prickly hairs perked up on my arms. 

 

“Why do you ask?”  I replied with a guarded smile.

 

“He always says he wanted a bar and if he had one, he would LIVE there, ” she replied. 

 

Well, as a matter of fact, I told her, things move around in the kitchen from one day to the next.  Glasses move.  Sugar seems to find new places to hide.  Packets of spices move from one side of the room to another with no explanation.  Bottles of tequila will be found  taken out…even after they have been put away for the evening.

 

“Mi abuelo (grandfather)!” she seemed to say happily.  ” He loved playing pranks and he loved tequila!”  I think you have my grandfather’s ghost enjoying your bar!

 

And indeed, I think we do!  As I found out later from staff members, sometimes they also hear old rancho music and what sounds like someone in scuffed shoes dancing!

 

Our “grandfather ghost?”  Maybe.  I hope he’s enjoying himself. I   I like to think he’s keeping an eye on us.   I’m not sure what to think of our lady in black!  Maybe the two know each other. Maybe they dance when the band plays!

 

But, if they are indeed spirits from the past, they don’t seem to bother us.  “Haunted” doesn’t mean scary.  I think we’re kind of blessed to have a bit of “living history” still with us.

 

To be fascinated by history is to know about real flesh-and-blood ordinary folks like you and me who were just going about their daily lives and have passed on before us. Like our resident ghosts!

 

As someday, I will also.  Mavbe my own spirit will be found laughing at the bar or cutting fish in our fish room!  If I have to wander for a bit of eternity, it might as well be in  a place of laughter and camaraderie.  What better place than a bar!   

 

I hope I am having a good time  with my wife as our place has been a good space for friends, family, fishermen to meet and enjoy each other!  Maybe they will tell stories about me the funny-looking short guy and the laughing redhead who once owned the place.  Our daily life today will be someone else’s “history story” of tomorrow. 

 

Cheers to life…and the afterlife!  Happy Dia de Los Muertos!

______________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!       

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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Look past stereotypes. A smile is a smile in any language!

CAN’T GO WRONG BAJA PRIMER

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Aug. 10, 2011

Been down here long enough and had several thousand folks pass through our care either directly or indirectly here in Baja.  Over the years, I’ve compiled a list of things that you can do that will always work no matter what.  What got me started many years ago was listening to two gringos talking on the beach.

 

“I’m really disappointed in Mexico.   The golf course here is not even close to being as good as Pebble Beach!”  (how many are THAT good?)

 

“We were fishing and the boat didn’t even have an electronic fish finder on it.  We caught fish, but it’s like fishing in the stone ages down here.”

 

Y’know, sometimes expectations are just a little too high.  Folks forget.  This is still the Baja.  Until a few years ago, things we take for granted like electricity, running water, phones and ice were non-existent in many places, let alone complaining because you can’t find a McDonald’s for the kids. 

 

Anyway, here’s my two-cents primer on things that are 100 percent guaranteed if you plan to visit us:

 

  • Never forget you’re a guest here.  Act accordingly as if you were visiting a friend or neighbor and you will never go wrong.
  • Stereotypes work both ways.  You are consciously or sub-consciously judging your hosts as Mexicans. It’s inevitable.  You are also being judged as a guest American.  Americans are also stereotyped.  Remember, you’re being watched and judged.  Be an ambassador of goodwill.
  • No one will every laugh at you for trying to speak the language.  It’s appreciated.  By the same token, don’t get impatient if a local doesn’t speak or understand English as fast as you would like.
  • “Please” and “Thank you” in any language is always understood.
  • An unspoken smile or a laugh is a powerful communicator
  • A dollar left on a dresser of your hotel room or pressed into a palm for a small favor goes further than any dollar you ever spent
  • You will never go wrong eating at a place that has a crowd or a line around it.  It’s worth the wait. 
  •  Make a friend forever by complimenting someone’s child or asking about their family.  Ask to see a photo. 
  • Shopping is always better the further you get away from the tourist areas. 
  • Never be afraid to negotiate.  It’s expected.  It’s fun.  It never hurts to ask if there is a lower price for anything…from taxi cabs to day tours and from margarita glassware to blankets.  If they say “no” smile.  If  they say “yes” smile even bigger! 
  • Ask a taxi driver to “show you HIS favorite places.” Or take you to HIS favorite restaurant or where the locals go or eat.  Often you will discover things you would never find in the travel brochures.
  • Even if you get a bargain, tip nicely.  You’ll be remembered.
  • Take a photo of someone and, if there’s any way, give them a copy.  They will treasure it and you always.  We take photos for granted.   We have thousands of photos of ourselves.  Many folks down here have their photo i.d. and sometimes not even that.
  • Tell your captain you just want to catch fish.  He really wants to.  Let him do his job.  Try tipping AHEAD OF time or showing him his tip ahead of time.  See what magic that works!
  • Our throw-aways are someone’s treasure.  A used t-shirt.  Old fishing line. Some hooks.   A worn baseball hat.  A out-of-fashion pair of shoes or slippers. Hand them off with a smile.  Get a smile in return.
  • Don’t be afraid or too lazy to walk through a park,  beach or shopping area where families are gathered. 
  • Visit a local bookstore or listen to some local music.
  • No matter how much of a hurry you think you are in, stop and sit.  Watch and listen.  Absorb. Revel in the slower pace, even for just a moment.  You’ll be amazed.  Don’t forget that you might not be passing this way again, even if you’re rushing to catch the glass-bottom boat tour or the mariachi dinner show.  Those will always be there.  That  magnificent sunset over the Sea of Cortez might not.

That’s my story!

Jonathan

  ________________________________________

.

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

___________________________________________

 

 Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

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