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A quiet winter evening on the La Paz waterfront

La Paz' busiest intersection on the watefront...no parking issues!

A quiet winter game of the Mexican verson of "BINGO" in the town square downtown.

WINTER OBSERVATIONS FROM BAJA

Originally published the week of December 29, 2011

I pulled the hood of my sweatshirt a little more snuggly against my neck as the cool ocean breeze was starting to send a few chilly evening fingers down my back.  As I walked down the old boulevard, I smiled at others also out for an evening stroll.  Long pants.  Hands stuffed in down jackets for warmth.  Girls wearing furry boots.  Guys covering their heads with watch-style pull down stretch hats to cover ears against the blustery night.

          Everyone you pass has a nod and a smile all somewhat grinning about being so bundled up.  It’s an inside local joke.  In addition to my hoodie, I’m wearing thermals, my Levis and my hiking boots with actual socks!  Quite a divergence from the flip-flops that adorn my feet the majority of the year. 

          Despite all the sunny palm-tree travel posters and brochures, yes, Baja does get winter.  And yes, it does get “cold.”  For us in La Paz, that means down to about the mid-50’s at night.

          Relatively speaking,  that translates to about a “3-dog-night” up in Alaska where the frigid evenings are judged by how many dogs one must sleep with to keep warm. 

          The few tourists, mostly snow-birds escaping places that really ARE cold like Canada, New York and Montana, continue to stroll in shorts and loud Hawaiian shirts and laugh to hear us talk about using drinking hot cocoa and “electric blankets” and staying in-doors at night because it’s too cold to go out!

          For the visitors that normally come down to enjoy the warmer months, it’s sometimes a shock that the sun isn’t always out or that everyone isn’t down at the beach or out drinking margaritas on the terraza or fishing or how windy it can be!

          I remember a few years back a guy wanted to build his dream boutique hotel on one of our beaches.  He had been a visitor for many years enjoying the sun, sand, fishing and diving for many years of summers.  He finally had all his papers in order.  He purchased the beach-front land and got the work crew to break ground…in December! 

          Revelation!  The winds howled.  Scaffolds blew over.  Sand and concrete scattered.  Half-the-days, the work crew couldn’t work.  The owner had never spent any winters in Baja! He thought it was 90 degrees and sunny year-round.   But in winter…No fishing.  Very few tourists.  After two months of futility, he packed it up.

          But, it’s a nice time to be in Baja.  It’s a time, many of our anglers and regulars don’t get to normally see since most fishermen visit the Baja from March to November.

          Yes, it can be windy and (for us) chilly too! But, generally, the sun is out and there’s a certain tranquility that descends on each place from the desert to the beaches and from the smallest pueblo to even the larger tourist cities. There’s even a word for it “tranquilo.” (calm or quiet).  And it’s a good way to describe it.

          The sun light is different.  It’s more subdued and the days are shorter although the days can be brilliant as a winter day.  Beaches are relatively empty.  So are the streets.

          Don’t be surprised to find you have a store or restaurant all to yourself to enjoy the full attention of the staff.  There just aren’t that many tourists around!

          If you thought Mexican “manana” was a leisurely pace, try “manana” in the winter! There’s no urgency.  There’s no “prisa” (hurry).  Lo que sea! (Whatever!).

      No one’s rushing around for office parties; setting up the electric Santa on the roof; cookie bakes; midnight sales; Christmas cards; parking lot crushes…”Calmate” (Take it easy) is the attitude.  No stress.  No underwear-bunching is allowed!  You will never be late and there’s no such thing as a cocktail dress or an ugly Christmas sweater.  Imagine that!

      It can take some getting used to for folks that move down here.

      Gringos get frustrated because we’re used to the frantic pace of Christmas and the holidays.  Here, the “holidays” start about mid-November and go until after the feast of the Three Kings in January.  So, no sense in getting frustrated.  No one is real motivated to get much done so you just roll with it!

     People sometimes don’t leave their homes. People don’t go to their offices.  For about a month, government and municipal employees barely work or are on hiatus with diminished staffs (sounds like a lot of government offices, doesn’t it!).  So, if you need anything “official” done, forget it. 

      If you need to rush or get something done RIGHT NOW…wait until February! 

     It’s not a bad way to look at things no matter where you’re spending your holidays. 

     Take it down a notch.  Park your sled and give the elves and reindeer the day off. Whether you’re eating menudo or Aunt Mary’s cheese log with crackers, take the time to enjoy the moments.  Savor your family and friends.  Tomorrow can wait.  Put it off until February like we do in Mexico!

     Best to you and yours for many blessings now and in the coming year!  And thanks too for reading my two-cents columns all year long too! Cheers!

That’s our story…

Jonathan

__________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!

________________________

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

                       

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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Look out! These gals can fish!

STAY HOME NO MORE!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of December 14, 2011

          “Steve used to leave me at home, but if he knows what’s good for him, he better bring me along!” laughed one of the ladies.

 

          “I know what you mean,” said another gal at the beachside table. “My husband can still take a ‘man-cation’ with the buddies, but he knows he has to make time to take me on a separate trip also!”

 

          “I used to think it would be boring but after my first trip, I couldn’t wait to get back,” grinned another of the women.

 

          Back in the day,  fishing trips to “the Baja” or “Old Mexico”  used to be a manly-man affair.  Jim, Joe, Jack, Harry and the rest of the guys piled into a van with the sleeping bags and an old Coleman canvas tent for the dusty drive or  climbed into an airplane full of other guys doing the same thing and landing at some one-desk airport…if there was even an airport. 

 

          Ice chests, rods and fishing gear were all tied together.  A pair of shorts or two; some flip-flops for the feet; a straw fishing  hat; some t-shirts were all the clothes you needed stuffed into an old salt-stained gym bag. 

 

          If you couldn’t swim in it or rinse it out in the sink, you didn’t need it!  As long as the beer was cold and you could put sand between your toes, it was pretty simple.

 

          You camped anywhere.  Or you stuffed as many guys into an economical room near the beach.  Maybe it had running waiter.  Maybe not.  Maybe it had a toilet.  Maybe not. So what? 

 

          There was always a bar  somewhere and the drinks were frosty.  The fishing was always good.  There was always an old hammock somewhere.  The jokes were always funny.  You ate what they cooked or you ate what you caught.   There’s nothing you can’t eat wrapped in a tortilla. 

 

          If  it tasted good, you made it taste better with more salsa.  If it tasted bad, you added extra salsa and drank more beer.  Nothing that couldn’t be cured with more salsa or beer. What happened in Mexico stayed in Mexico. You and the guys!

 

          Oh how times have changed!

         

          These days, with more frequency, the complexion of Mexico fishing trips is changing.  If you ever watch folks de-plane at the airport or even watch the cruisers and pangas go out in the morning, you’ll notice a few things…

 

          A few more pieces of pink luggage on the tarmac…

 

          A few more “anglers” wearing sundresses and halter-tops…

 

          A few more high-pitched laughs in the mornings on the dock and beach…

 

          Jim and Joe and Harry have brought along Sarah, Joanie and Kathleen, and it’s happening more and more.

 

          And don’t be fooled by the dangly -earrings, manicured nails or floral sandals.  These ladies come to fish!  No longer content to just “ride along” or “just coming to watch,” these gals have no qualms about going hand-to-hand with the world-class fish in Mexican waters or shoulder-to-shoulder with their husbands, brothers, dads, and buddies!

 

          “I don’t need any help when I’m on a fish! If I’m hooked, up, everyone else better get outta my way!” is how one lady angler put it.

 

          “I can hang with the guys and I especially like being able to spend time doing something that used to be an all-guys sport,” is what another told me.  “I started fishing with my boyfriend who took the time to show me how to fish and now he’s my husband!” she beamed with a smile.

 

          It’s a great way for families or couples to have quality time together.

 

          The captain of one charter boat in Cabo San Lucas once told me, “I like having the ladies aboard.  They tend to listen better and you can coach them.  They are not afraid to ask questions.   They have more patience sometimes than the guys and beat the fish with technique rather than brute strength which is what some guys often do.  I’m never surprised when one of the women or girls outfishes the guys although it often surprises the guys!” 

 

          Some can handle it.  Some can’t!

 

          “Some guys get their shorts all bunched up if a woman does better than them,” said another captain.  “But, if you put all the macho-stuff aside, everyone has fun although some of the women are as fiercely competitive as the men and get as fired-up as the men when it comes to who-fishes-better-than who!  Some of the women can really talk smack!” he laughingly added.

 

          “I love to outfish my boyfriend,” grinned one young lady who talked about her fishing trip as she watched the crew fillet their catch of dorado.  “It seems whenever we come to Mexico, I catch the biggest fish or the most fish,” she said proudly.

 

          “I let her win!” retorted the boyfriend with a wink and a laugh who got a playful elbow in the ribs as he raised a bottle of beer in a toast.

 

          In some ways, it’s a two-edged sword.  For many guys who used to do the all-boys trip, the days are long gone or numbered.  On the other hand, getting a wife, girlfriend or daughter interested in fishing with you is a pretty nice trade-off.

 

That’s our story…

Jonathan

______________________________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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CUSTOMS AND HOLIDAYS ARE CHANGING IN MEXICO

“SALSA DE PAVO”

Originally published the week of December 1, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I’ve spent almost 2 decades now here in Baja and it’s interesting watching certain things evolve.  Thanksgiving…an inherently American holiday…is one of them.

 

Years ago, it seemed that I had to explain the holiday to locals, but when you mention a “Day of Thanks” (Dia de Gracias), all would nod with an understanding  smile.  An oft-heard phrase to punctuate a sentence  in normal conversation is “Gracias a Dios.”  (Thank the Lord).  It’s not made to underscore a feeling of exasperation as in English where you might hear, ” Thank God, I didn’t forget to turn off the stove!” 

 

Instead, in Spanish, it’s a sincere form of gratitude even if not necessarily religious.  Like folks automatically saying “bless you” after someone sneezes.  In Mexico, “gracias a Dios” is said with a smile, with no frustrated rolling -of -the -eyes towards the heavens.

For example…

“How are you?”

“I am fine, thank the Lord.”

How’s work going?

“Great.  Everything is super.  Thank God.”

 

But, I would get quizzical looks when trying to explain the American version of Thanksgiving.    Crazy gringos.  Watch football all day.  Eat turkey and gravy.  Take a long nap.  Watch more football.  Eat more turkey.  Take another nap!

However, as the years have gone by, the “holiday” of “Gracias a Dios” has permeated Mexican life, at least here in La Paz.  It’s gotten a foothold.

 

Perhaps it’s because so many tourists from the U.S. show up and seem to be looking for “holiday turkey meals.”  So, more tourist restaurants cater to it.  You will find places actually offering  “American Turkey Dinner.”  . (Frankly if I’m  a tourist visiting in Mexico, that LAST thing I want is turkey!  Show ME the tacos and enchiladas!)

 

These days, I do find more locals not only acknowledging Thanksgiving, but also celebrating it on their own way.   While there is no “official” day of Thanksgiving in Mexico, a day of giving thanks and having the family together is wonderful growing concept.
 see more whole turkeys popping up in the frozen food section of the markets.  I actually found canned cranberry sauce and I see now that they sell stuffing mix!

 

I hear families tell me of getting together for dinner during the holidays and looking forward to “Pavo estilo Norteamericano.”  (polite way to say “gringo turkey”) It’s almost the new rage.  It’s not grilled.  It’s not barbecued.  It’s roasted in an oven.  It’s served with bread, not tortillas.  Mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes not Spanish rice!

I still have trouble explaining “gravy.”  I have to call it “salsa de pavo” (turkey sauce), but I’ m sure  it loses something in translation!

 

“Salsa” in Mexico simpsly means “sauce.”

A strange brown sauce that you scoop over potatoes and yams draws looks of confusion from  my Mexican amigos.  “Que  haces?”  (You do WHAT to your turkey?)

 

Still, old traditions still happily linger.  Like so many Mexican holidays, I hear about families still lining up at the dinner table for tamales along with their turkey.   Thankfully, it’s a tradition that is difficult to change.  Moms, aunties and grandmas still gather for all-night tamale-making parties to make the flavorful stuffed dinner treats using old family recipes.  It’s quite an undertaking.

However, with families so busy, it’s more convenient to order and buy them. This time of year,   tamale vendors pop up on street corners with vats of the steaming delicacy wrapped in traditional corn husk.

 

That incredible savory fragrance of  pork, chicken, beef or chili with cheese (rajas con queso) tamales seems to permeate the air this time of year and door-to-door tamale vendors walk the streets either selling directly or taking orders for the holidays.

  

“Si, amigo! Claro que si.  Servicio a su domicilio!” (Yes, my friend.  You bet we have home delivery!)

 

Either way, some things are universal no matter how you celebrate.  After the big feed, you still want to take the long siesta!  Whether you lie on the couch in front of the TV…sprawl on the carpet by the fireplace…or snooze in a hammock under a Baja palm tree… some things don’t change!   Gracias a Dios!

Hope you and yours have a safe and happy holiday season!

______________________________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s Tailhunter International

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745 Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico Phones: from USA : 626-638-3383 from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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The hidden back stairway in the Tailhunter building. A stairway for wandering spirits?

After taking over this 100-year-old building in 2006, we found it had a colorful history as an office, apartment, many restaurants, a museum, and home to many former La Paz residents...some of whom may still "reside" there!

A BIT OF HISTORY & MEXICAN SPIRITS!

Originally Published in Western Outdoors the Week of Nov. 4, 2011

History isn’t necessarily about events and dates.  It’s about the people who made those things happen.  People who mostly aren’t with us any longer.  Or are they?

 

As I’m writing this it’s a few days before Dia de Los Muertos…the Day of the Dead.  A big celebration here in Mexico.  Not in the morbid sense, but rather a time to remember and celebrate the lives of loved ones who have gone before us.  It’s getting more commercialized, but for the most part, it’s version of Halloween.

 

So, let me tell you a story of historical building.  In fact, it’s the very building where my wife and I run our Tailhunter Restaurant & Bar on the La Paz waterfront.

 

We have refurbished an old 3 story building next to the beach. It’s over 100-years-old.

 

Over the years, we have found that it has been a home many times, an offices, a museum, a warehouse, restaurants; and an apartment to name a few.  There’s a dark interior stairwell that goes from the 1st floor offices to the restaurant kitchen on the 2nd floor. Covered in old ceramic tiles and graced with a metal rail that has seen too many coats of paint,  it allows staff to move between the floors without having to walk through the actual restaurant and bar.

 

Jill and I were working at our desks one afternoon. 

 

Jill saw or sensed the lady in black first.

 

“Did you see that?” she said a bit startled?  “Who was that lady that just went up the stairway? That wasn’t one of the staff.”

 

“Who honey? I didn’t see anyone, I replied. I had been looking at my computer screen.

 

“There was a lady in black that just went by our office door.”

 

She went on to say that youngish woman dressed in black, wearing a big ruffled dress like you would see on an old Mexican hacienda just walked by the office door and up the stairs!

 

We both got up and looked out the door up the dark stairwell to the kitchen.  Nothing. I shrugged.

 

Jill insisted.  “She made no sound!  It was like a whisp.”

 

We checked upstairs and no one in the busy kitchen just above us had seen anyone come up through the stairwell.

 

Jill and I just looked at each other.  Hmmmm…another shrug between us.

 

Over the next 3 years, the “lady in black” has walked up the stairs several times  According to Jill, she’s not scary.  In fact, Jill says she seems to be lost or like a mom looking for someone or something.  I saw her once and agree.

 

We kept it between us until one day we happened to mention it to several of our staff members who were talking about noises they sometimes hear in the old building.   All eyes went wide. 

 

They had seen her too! But no one had said anything. “You’ve seen her too?”

 

She is always in a full hacienda black dress. Imagine Zorro’s wife.    There is never a sound.  She is never scary, but seems anxious or looking for something.

 

And although she was usually seen near our interior stairway, she was also seen near our restrooms and on the terrace briefly looking out towards the bay. Looking for what?

 

The answer came from our landlord only recently. He had heard a story about a wealthy woman who  had lost one of the children to illness and the child had died in the nursery…on the 2nd floor at the spot where our restrooms were now located!

 

Hmmm… our staff has reported that after we’re closed at night during clean-up,  they sometimes hear children laughing in that area or a woman crying!  Toilet paper is sometimes strewn about and raised toilet seats will sometimes fall back down loudly…all at the same time!  Water in the sinks sometimes turns on and off by itself.  

 

The family of our lady in black?  

 

Several years ago at the restaurant, I met another woman who said that she had lived in the building back in the 40’s.  She said her father had been the director of customs for the City of La Paz and described wonderful childhood in the house when the highway in front had been packed dirt and burro-drawn carts still shared the “road” with the few cars in town.

 

She mentioned how easy it was to walk out  front and dig all the clams she wanted and how commercial fishermen would sell fish right on that same beach including tuna and dorado they had caught literally yards in front of our restaurant that had once been her home. A bygone time!

 

I gladly accompanied her as she asked to look around.  She said our offices had been her parents’ bedroom and told stories about how our downstairs cantina and store had been the living room and garage.  She said she had great memories of living there.

 

Upstairs, she said the 2nd and 3rd floor had been patios and more bedrooms and how she and her sisters would play overlooking the ocean. 

 

When we entered the kitchen, she looked quietly around.

 

“This was my grandfather’s bedroom,” she said.  ” He was a wonderful playful good man to be around.” 

 

She went on.

 

“He passed away in this room.”  Pause.

 

 “Do you ever notice anything strange around your bar?’ She said with a raised eyebrow and smile.

 

I raised an eyebrow of my own.  Little prickly hairs perked up on my arms. 

 

“Why do you ask?”  I replied with a guarded smile.

 

“He always says he wanted a bar and if he had one, he would LIVE there, ” she replied. 

 

Well, as a matter of fact, I told her, things move around in the kitchen from one day to the next.  Glasses move.  Sugar seems to find new places to hide.  Packets of spices move from one side of the room to another with no explanation.  Bottles of tequila will be found  taken out…even after they have been put away for the evening.

 

“Mi abuelo (grandfather)!” she seemed to say happily.  ” He loved playing pranks and he loved tequila!”  I think you have my grandfather’s ghost enjoying your bar!

 

And indeed, I think we do!  As I found out later from staff members, sometimes they also hear old rancho music and what sounds like someone in scuffed shoes dancing!

 

Our “grandfather ghost?”  Maybe.  I hope he’s enjoying himself. I   I like to think he’s keeping an eye on us.   I’m not sure what to think of our lady in black!  Maybe the two know each other. Maybe they dance when the band plays!

 

But, if they are indeed spirits from the past, they don’t seem to bother us.  “Haunted” doesn’t mean scary.  I think we’re kind of blessed to have a bit of “living history” still with us.

 

To be fascinated by history is to know about real flesh-and-blood ordinary folks like you and me who were just going about their daily lives and have passed on before us. Like our resident ghosts!

 

As someday, I will also.  Mavbe my own spirit will be found laughing at the bar or cutting fish in our fish room!  If I have to wander for a bit of eternity, it might as well be in  a place of laughter and camaraderie.  What better place than a bar!   

 

I hope I am having a good time  with my wife as our place has been a good space for friends, family, fishermen to meet and enjoy each other!  Maybe they will tell stories about me the funny-looking short guy and the laughing redhead who once owned the place.  Our daily life today will be someone else’s “history story” of tomorrow. 

 

Cheers to life…and the afterlife!  Happy Dia de Los Muertos!

______________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!       

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

Read Full Post »

CHOICES...CHOICES...on the Baja road trip!

It may not look fancy, but sometimes the rougher the road, the prettier the "gem" at the end of the trail!

You'll probably never see this on Trip Advisor, but it doesn't mean it's not a great stay! It doesn't say "hot water." It says "running water!" Oh...and the also "weld!"

FIVE STAR AS IT GETS!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Oct. 20, 2011

Don’t get me wrong.  I like being pampered as much as the next guy when I go on vacation and stay at a hotel.  There’s nothing wrong with room service; a great restaurant; a spa; fluffy robes and a (OK…I admit it)…a mint on my pillow and cookies! 

 

Surely, I’ve stayed in some of the best in Baja…Hotel Cabo San Lucas, The Finesterra, Plaza Las Glorias, Palmas de Cortez, Spa Buenavista among so many great resort properties and enjoyed them all tremendously.

 

But that’s not usually how I roll.  I WISH we could do that all the time, but that’s just not very economical.

 

But, especially in  pre-internet days 15 or 20 years ago. . .  In the days before all those sites like Trip Advisor and Yelp and other websites arose to  dissect every aspect of every resort from the size of the pool to the softness of the toilet paper and the fragrance of the shampoo; there weren’t many resources to finding a place to lay your head.  

 

There was always  the  dog-eared  dusty copy of  dad’s Auto Club guide in the glove box or under the seat and that was about it if you were road-tripping down the Baja.

In  those early days when I would routinely drive up and down the often-lonely-always-bumpy Baja several times a year, some of those were the best stays I ever had.

 

There were three kinds of nights.

 

Sleep in the car or truck on the side of the road curled up under the steering wheel.

 

Pull over in the dark.  Camp on the side of the road or beach. Never quite sure where you pitched your tent until you woke up the next day.

 

Or…

 

Really  “splurge” and find some road sign as the sun goes down.  Take a chance that “Clean rooms. Cheap Rooms  Hot Showers.  Comida Rica” (good food) really meant what it said.

 

Cheap rooms sometimes meant “economical.”  Sometimes, it meant exactly what it said…CHEAP!  Single light bulb hanging from the ceiling with a pull-chain.  Threadbare towels the size of a dishtowel. . Worn mattress on top of a concrete slab and a TV with rabbit ears made of a clothes hangar. 

 

But those were the exception. More often than not, off the road and to the left meant finding a little Baja gem.  They still exist.  The scenario didn’t differ.

 

Sun going low.  Too many hours driving in the shimmering dessert heat with the Jimmy Buffet cassette tape getting pretty old. Junk food wrappers on the floor.  Reading the road signs for miles. Rusty, sun-baked, poorly-lettered or hand-lettered attempts to look attractive nailed onto any fence post, tree, or any vertical piece of wood.

 

Casa Maria Palapa and Campground 5 km.

El Sol Beach Hotel 3 km.

Hotel Bahia Hernan Cortez 1.5 km.

 

 

 

Perhaps not grammatically correct but lots of credit for effort.

 

“Hot Chowers and Gude Fud”

 

I would eventually be forced to make a choice prompted by tired eyes and diminishing light.  Down the road and to the left.  Often down a dirt or gravel washboard.  Sometimes parting a herd of goats or rousting the lazy dog.

 

And the trees would open and there it would be. 

 

Often on the beach. Often only one or two other cars and a well-used hotel pick up truck in the parking lot and lit by yellow bug lights illuminating concrete walls, terra cotta tiles,  and a palapa roof. 

 

Lots of tangled  bouganvillia vines climbing the old columns and up the terraces. Maybe an old fountain in the brick courtyard.  Maybe not.  But the  savory smell of grilling corn tortillas and searing meat coming from somewhere. The faint sound of an old mariachi tune off an 8-track or the sound of a TV playing a soccer team carries over the early evening air.

 

Family owned and happy to see you with big smiles.  As you check in, family pictures on the walls.  A cheap Baja calendar over the check-in desk.  Mama happily checks you in. 

 

Lo siento, Senor!  No credit cards, but rooms are $15 U.S.  Will that be OK?

 

It’s a deal.  Papa comes in “Bienvenidos, Amigo! (Welcome!) and helps with your luggage to a clean little room . Daughter brings fresh towels again with a shy welcoming smile.  This will do. There’s a fuschia-colored flower in a glass on the nightstand.  Nice touch.

 

I follow that wonderful aroma that caught me as I came in.  Down to the little 3-table -cafe on the concrete slab overlooking the beach. Pacifico Beer poster on the wall next to a faded picture of a bullfight.

 

 In the soft  yellow bug lights, there’s a dry-yellowed dorado taxidermied on the wall and some shark jaws dangling from a decorative old fishing net tacked nearby.  The soccer game flickers from an old black and white TV.    

 

The plastic Corona Beer tables match, but the silverware and plates don’t.  Grandma in the back frying something good.  She sees you and smiles.

 

There’s no menus.  Grandson comes out and tells you what they are serving that night.  And treats you like you’re a guest in their home. Which you are!

 

Tomato salad (from their own garden)

Homemade Rice and beans

Grandmas corn tortillas and green tomatillo salsa

Grilled Lobster tail (proudly caught by their cousin that morning on the reef who doubles as the gardner)

Flan

 

…for eight dollars.

 

Is that OK, he asks awkwardly as if he regrets charging a house guest.  “Es bueno?”

 

“Claro” (Of course) I smile back.

 

He brightens and eagerly heads to the kitchen.

 

A Baja feast.  And of course, ice cold beer.  Heaven.    Smiling grandson brings the beer.

 

I lean back in the chair kick off my flip-flops and let my feet rest on the cool concrete. Beer so cold the icy liquid burns the road dust at the back of my throat. Sigh. Slow exhale.  Inhale the salty beach air.  Ahhhhh… And watch the sun go down on the Sea of Cortez.

 

It’s as Five Star as any person ever needs.

 

That’s my story!

Jonathan

_________________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

 

 

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“FALL NEVER FAILS”

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of Oct. 5, 2011

Long before I ever lived down here in Mexico.   Long before I even had an idea that I might someday be living down here in Baja, let alone running a business, I was like alot of you.

 

I worked some semblance of a 9-5 job.  I had a day or two off a week.  I had vacation time and 3 and 4 day weekends like everyone else 

 

And, I planned my fishing trips like everyone less.

 

Early in the year, I would pull out my big fishing “master calendar” and figure all the places that I’d like to fish during the season. Trying to budget my time and wallet. And moon phases…

 

Big red marker…

 

Let’s see…shallow water rock fishing on the central coast…late winter or early spring. Check.

 

Trout opener in the Sierras…April. OK

 

Maybe sneak away for flyfishing in Montana…hmmm…June.  Check.

 

San Diego  kelp paddy yellowtail…late June.  Can’t miss that.

 

July for king salmon and halibut in Alaska. Better check airfare now.

 

August…hmmmm…albacore and bluefin should be running.  Book San Diego again.  Check.

 

September…hehehehe…long range?  10 days?  I’ll try to get a kitchen pass!

October/November…BAJA!

 

The fall in Baja has always been good to me.  Pragmatically, it’s a good time to come down.  It’s not as hot generally.  Shadows are a bit longer.  Air is a tad cooler.  Waters are still warm.  Generally flat with small breezes. The killer humidity is lower.

 

Most of the summer yahoo crowd is gone.  Kids are back in school.  It’s not quite the holidays so alot of places are only populated by fishermen walking around.  During the days when the fleets are out, the towns are empty!

 

Many airlines consider the dip between Labor Day and Thanksgiving a “downtime” as well so they offer low-season rates on flights. And, as long as you’re not trying to book a boat during a big-time tournament, the best boats and captains are always available and ready to roll.

 

From a fishing perspective, the season has never failed me. 

 

I’ve caught the majority of my billfish during the fall. In fact, I got my  largest, a 400-pounder in October.

 

My largest and biggest wahoo have all been caught in the fall.

 

The majority of my tuna and my largest, a 236-pound cow was caught in the fall.

 

Come to think of it, my largest dorado have all been caught in the fall as well.

 

I guess there’s a reason so many of the biggest and most popular fishing tournaments in Baja,  and indeed Mexico,  are held in the fall.  That’s when the big fish are around.  That’s when many of  the  top-water pelagic trophy-fish that made Baja famous can be found…blue marlin…black marlin…sailfish…yellowfin tuna…wahoo…dorado…and others.

 

Had you the luxury, you could literally hop from one tournament to the other.  One stops.  Another begins.  I know some semi-professional tournament teams and that’s what they literally do.  They  zoom from one tournament to the other.  You could probably just stay in Cabo San Lucas and between September and November participate in a virtual assembly line of tournaments and never leave the city except to go fishing.

 

In many circles, Southern California comes to mind, once Labor day has gone, so do the fishermen.  Well, the fish don’t simply stop biting because the calendar says summer is over.  At least as far as Baja is concerned, the end of summer marks the beginning of some of the best fishing around!

That’s my story

Jonathan

 

____________________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!    

 

____________________________________

Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International

 

TAILHUNTER FISHING FLEET #1 Rated on Trip Advisor

TAILHUNTER RESTAURANT BAR #1 Rated in La Paz on Trip Advisor

 

Now follow us on FACEBOOK TOO

 
Website: www.tailhunter-international.com
U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745
Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.
Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:
http://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate


“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

 

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Win some...lose some. It's part of the sport. But certain fish leave lifetime memories.

LOST FISH CAPTURED MEMORIES

Originally Published the Week of Sept. 22, 2011 in Western Outdoor News

I think I was about 9-years-old and my uncle had taken me out on my first real trip in Mexican waters.  It was a multi-day trip on the old party boat “Holiday.”   I had never fished the big boys before and was obviously thrilled like any little boy. Sky high and feet off-the-ground-excited. 

 

That day we got into a big bluefin and albacore bite.  It was exciting and like a proverbial three-ring-circus.  Bent rods. Screaming reels. Blood splattering. Guys cursing and yelling and big thick fish bodies hitting the deck! Oh man…pandemonium like a little kid had never seen!

 

I didn’t know what I was doing.  My uncle got lost in the melee.  I had an old Mitchell Garcia ocean “coffee grinder” spinning  reel as I hadn’t yet learned how to use conventional gear.  I think I had 30 pound line purchase from Thrify Drug Store.  I had a beat up Roddy fishing rod.  Being a little brown kid,  I wanted to stay out’ve the way so I wandered to the bow all by myself and cast an anchovie as far as I could!

 

As soon as it hit the water, there was a huge splash.  The reel was in gear so it was almost launched out’ve my hands!  I remember digging my heels in and slipping down on my butt but still holding onto the rod which was now torqued against the gunwale with my knees arched and my feet braced against the Holiday’s white fiberglass…and holding on for dear life.

 

I somehow managed to stand up.  I did the best I could to just hang on.  I turned the handle when I could.  Gritted my teeth and remembered the butt of that spinning rod digging into my chest and hurting under my armpit. Forget backbone!  That rod was like a big noodle in my small hands and almost doubled with the big fish!

 

Oh, please! Oh please! I remember frantically looking around hoping someone would come help me. But everyone was jammed back in the stern.  No one missed the 9-year-old by himself up at the bow.

 

I don’t know how long I held on up there.  Maybe 15 minutes?  Time has little relevance when you’re on a big fish let alone when you’re 9 years old and can barely tell time!

 

I really didn’t know what else to do!

 

“Hey, there’s a kid in the bow with a fish!  Someone go help him!” I heard a booming voice yell from the wheelhouse above me.

 

Bodies came running up.  Hands wrapped around me and around my rod. I didn’t look up.

 

“Hang in there, kid! Oh man, you have about a 50-pound bluefin on there!  You been up here all alone?  That’s the wrong outfit to be using for these fish!”

Certain things get etched in your brain.  I remember those words to this day more than 40 years later.

 

I was straining for all I was worth.

 

“Hey, it’s coming up!  It’s coming up!  Get the gaffs! “

 

I turned the handle of that old Mitchell.  It was like pulling a refrigerator up the side of a building. 

 

“Oh wow.  It’s a big one, Kid! Just a little more.  Just a little more!”

 

I peered over the side of that tall rail.  What I saw was the fat blue and silver body that seemed close enough to touch.  The eye of that massive fish must have matched my own that were the size of pizza plates.

 

That fish looked right at me.  Then it surged with one last burst.

 

The rod dug into my groin and chest and I remember my knuckles getting slammed against the wooden rail.

 

And the line popped…then and there.  KER-SNAPP!

 

Where?  Where’s MY fish? 

 

I found myself crumpled on the deck.  Alone.  All I remember was people walking away and I think I heard, “Tough luck, Kid.”

 

Looking back, the deckies were busy in the stern with other bent rods.   They had other things to attend to, but for a 9-year-old, I wanted to cry.  I wanted someone to tell me how I lost that fish.  And why? 

 

I wanted someone to pat me on the back or give me some props.  I wanted an “Attaboy.”  But you don’t get an “attaboy” for losing fish.  My uncle didn’t even know I had been up there in the bow. Where was my mom, dangit! She’d understand. 

 

To this day, I remember that eye still looking at me!

 

I remember Micheal Jordan once saying he won alot of basketball games with last-second shots.  But he also said that there were other games when his last-second shot clanked off the rim.  He said he remembers those games he lost more than the games he won.

 

I have caught many big fish over my fishing career.  But…I remember more every big fish I lost.  Perhaps none more than that first one adventuring into Mexican waters almost 50 years ago.

__________________________

 

Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004.  Along with his wife, Jill, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico  www.tailhunter-international.com.  They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront.  If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com  or drop by the restaurant to say hi!           

 

_________________________

 

 

 

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It comes in all makes and models and can be confusing but the growth of it's popularity can't be understated! But do you really need it?

TO FLURO OR NOT TO FLURO!

 

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of May 12, 2010

              It used to be “back-in-the-day” when I was a kid that honestly, my day of fishing back in Hawaii involved a thin bamboo cane pole (no reel!); a rusty hook I sharpened on the driveway; a 10-cent bit of shrimp and a thin piece of string or even white thread if I could steal some from my grandma’s sewing box! (Oh the luxury!)

            And I would be happy as a dog in a forest of fire-hydrants all-day-long!  And I caught fish too. 

            All of us kids fished like that.  I’d climb out my window early in the morning so as not to wake the family and my buddy next door would climb out his window and actually shimmy down the drainpipe onto his garage roof.  With bait and cane pole over our shoulders, we’d trudge barefoot down the gravel road to the beach and fish all day long.

            The one defining difference in our fishing was the line!  If one of us happened to have squirreled-away or outright stole a bit of that white thread, it made all the difference in the world to what we would catch or, if we would catch much of anything at all.  (I don’t think I knew mono existed until I was about 10 years-old).

            Anyway, fast forward to the here-and-now. 

            It’s gotten a bit more complicated and sophisticated…not to mention alot more expensive than the days of my bamboo pole and rusty hooks. 

            And lines.  Where do we start?  Clear, blue, green, grey, pink, red, chartreuse (do real men use “chartreuse” fishing lines?) and on-and-on.  And that’s just the monofilament.

            Then, there’s braided lines and co-polymer lines.  But the one that seems funniest to me is flurocarbon.  It’s been around awhile, but it seems to have taken awhile to get a toe-hold here in Baja, especially among captains and crews.

            When many captains up and down the Baja coast fish like their papa’s did and his papa before him, there’s often resistance to new technology, e.g. circle hooks; spreader bars; teasers, etc.

            After all, if it aint’ broke don’t fix it and if their dad’s caught tuna a certain way, why mess up a good thing?

            Flurocarbon line looks like regular mono but it has the properties of being supposedly invisible underwater.  In a nutshell.  I don’t know.  Shrug.  I’m no scientist.    I can see it, but apparently fish can’t.  I’ve been a believer for years.

            Especially in outlying  Baja areas where technology comes slowly, it’s making believers out of many Baja captains and crews as well. 

            The thing is, it’s so darned expensive down here and often hard to get, even for tackle stores that it’s almost like a drug transaction sometimes.  As I’ve walked along some docks and beaches, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been asked, “Pssst, amigo, do you have any fluro? Falta poquito favor.” (I just need a little please!)

            To many captains, a bit of fluro leader is sometimes the difference between catching fish and catching ALOT of fish!

            So, should you bring some down on your next trip?  Yes and no.

            As I said, even back in the states, it’s not cheap.  You definitely don’t want to fill a whole reel with the stuff.  Not only will it cost alot, but first, you don’t really need that much. 

            Second, although it’s supposedly invisible under the water, it tends to be stiffer and much more brittle than regular mono.  That means it breaks easier.  To me, it means that my baits might not swim as naturally, if it has to drag a 100 yards of stiff line behind it. 

            You also have to be careful.  Knot-tying can sometimes be a bit more difficult, especially on the heavier fluro.  Because it can be stiffer, make sure the knot is properly cinched. 

            Personally, I prefer it just as leader material.  A few yards will do ya.  After all, if it’s supposedly invisible underwater, then I really only need to cover the part that’s actually UNDER the water near the fish, right?  I don’t need a zillion yards of fluro on my reel.  A few yards as leader does me fine.

            Secondly, since the lack of visibility is utmost, I don’t much have need for it on my trolling lines or when using jigs or iron.  In my head, when a fish strikes a moving lure, it’s a reaction strike.  It’s actually moving in to whack the offering.  That thing is MOVING! 

             Unlike fishing a drifted bait, where a fish might check it out for a bit and line visibility might make a huge difference, I don’t think it makes much difference with a trolled jig  or lure that’s cast and retrieved.  The beauty of fluro is that it’s invisible ergo use it when visibility is actually a factor. 

            Lastly, it makes a great parting gift to your skipper or deckhand.  Watch him light up when you hand him your leftover spool. Por favor!          

 That’s my story

Jonathan

*Jonathan Roldan is the Baja Editor and Columnist with Western Outdoor News since 2004.  He lives in La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico with his wife, Jilly, where they run their fishing fleet www.tailhunter-international.com and the Tailhunter Bar Restaurant http://www.tailhunter-international.com/tailhunter-bar-and-fubar-cantina.htm.  You can reach him directly at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com

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