That's My Story

BY ANY OTHER NAME – published June 2006 – Western Outdoor News

As I’ve often written about in this column, some pretty interesting things come out when a bunch of guys get together after fishing.

Probably more brain power and profound thinking emerges over beer, nachos and salsa than during all those hours spent behind a desk back home when you’re getting paid to think! (Maybe if bosses just supplied every cubicle with beer and happy hour we might be onto something!) You have to be careful what you say in front of me because I have to come up with 52 of these columns a year and I’ve always got my ears open!

Anyway, during one recent sit-down where we were also joined by some of our captains and local friends, we were enlightened about the genesis of the word “gringo” oft applied to tourists, fishermen and basically any non-local.

Story one is the best one. Just prior to World War I when the U.S. sent cavalry troops into Mexico under General Black Jack Pershing to chase down Pancho Villa who had made his own incursions across the U.S. border. But he had a problem. Pancho was the Mexican Robin Hood down here so most of the locals were understandably not real sympathetic to helping General Jack locate Pancho and the boys. “No Senor. We haven’t seen him for many many days, but if you ride over those hills you will surely find him! ” (wink-wink and fingers crossed behind backs).

In those days, men-at-arms often sang marching tunes like “Battle Hymn of the Republic” (Glory Glory Hallelujah); “Johnny Comes Marching Home Again” and other popular war tunes. One of the most popular tunes among the cavalry of that era was, “Green Grow the Hills.” Across the deserts and hills of Mexico, that singing could be heard from a long way off. Nothing like surprising your enemy by singing out loud! That will get them everytime. (Imagine our own troops in the Middle East singing “Highway to Hell” from AC/DC as they patrol Baghdad.)

Well, “Green Grows” became “Gringos” as a way for Mexican partisans to alert their compadres, “Los Gringos vienen!” (The Gringos are coming!) And a new bit of slang entered the lexicon.

Story two…American service men wore “green coats.” Hence “gringos.”

Story three…It’s a bastardization from the Greek word, “griego” which means “stranger.” I have no idea how the Greeks got into this mix, but someone threw that into the discussion about 4 beers into the debate. It was toasted and approved for consideration.

Personally, the one I hear the most lately is “huero.” (“Huera” if you’re a woman.”) It means “blondie.” Don’t be offended if you’re called that. It’s not derogatory. It’s merely a statement of observation that many Americans are light haired. Believe me…it beats what they call me…”chaparito.” (Shorty). In fact, it means “very short.” I’d rather be a taller blonde. Or Greek!

HEADS UP – The Mexican Presidential election comes up July 2nd here in Mexico. President Fox only gets one term of 6 years then has to step down. Certainly that’s important on many levels. Howver, moreso than who’s going to be the next Mexican President, most travelers will be concerned that ‘THE SALE AND PURCHASE OF LIQUOR IS PROHIBITED ON ELECTION DAY!” That’s right. No margartitas or pina coladas at the bar. You cannot buy a case of cerveza at the store or market nor can anyone sell it to you and armed guards will often be seen at many of the more popular places. The prohibition of alcohol on election day seems about as practical as a one-legged-man at a butt kicking contest, but be warned anyway. Stock up AHEAD of time!

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

THE LAND HOLDS THE KEYS – published June 2006 – Western Outdoor News

LAND HOLDS THE KEYS

A long time ago and in a different life, I spent my first two years in college thinking I was going to be a geologist. Looking back, I think in reality, I just hated being indoors and being a geology major meant we got to go on cool field trips to look at rock formations; scrounge fossilized shells and there was always something neat about outdoor girls in jeans and hiking boots who were in those classes.

When I decided to change my academic endeavors, I never really looked back I never thought Id utilize topographic maps ; geosynclines; techtonic plate movement and reading sedimentary layers, at least, not until I started fishing and eventually trying to make a living in the Baja.

A lot of guys really pride themselves knowing how to read their fishing waters. Look for birds and floating debris. Look for current and temperature breaks. Check out the wind line. “Nervous water” could mean something big is pushing up a bait school. Look for a fin. Scan the horizon for moving dolphin. You get my “drift” no pun intended.

But have you ever thought of “reading the land” as a tool to your fishing?

The land can reveal an awful lot about what might be happening underwater. I’ve seen a lot of bass fishermen who use stuff like this. You see, the Sea of Cortez and indeed the entire Baja Peninsula is a huge geologic book that’s as full of clues as a Dan Brown novel. In Baja, the lack of vegetation means it’s even easier to read and decipher.

The entire land mass of Baja was created when huge techtonic plates shifted (the source of our earthquakes and stuff like the San Andreas fault) and caused a big chunk of land to drift north and one to drift south creating the Baja Peninsula and the massive water-filled chasm we call the Sea of Cortez. The land mass is the result of eons of volcanic, techtonic, and weather activity. Looking at a cliff, you can see layer after layer of sediment. See where that arroyo (gully) looks like a wash down to the water? See how the sand is built up along that point? See those boulders that tumbled down? Hmmmmm…

In the absence of trees that might otherwise block your viewing, stop don’t let your gaze stop at the waterline. Look up! Despite what many of us would like to believe, the Sea of Cortez is not filled with fish everywhere. So, it helps to have some help finding them. Many times what you see on the land is duplicated below the surface.

A huge canyon or a rain gully that has been there for many years washing down rock and sediment from the hills goes right into the water creating a huge alluvial fan of debris below the surface. A great holding spot for bait and fish like roosters, and pargo.

Vertical canyon walls coming straight down often continue to go straight down. Deep waters can be found relatively close to shore. Might not be a bad idea to drag a Rapala or Rebel through there for lurking homeguard yellowtail or amberjack.

See a cliff pockmarked with caves dropping, sloping or terracing down to the water? Imagine those same caves submerged holding grouper, pargo, snapper, cabrilla and other rockfish.

Wind and current whipping around a point of sand will often create a hooke-shaped sand bar extending out from the beach underwater. Look for the differences in water color or current breaks and then try working the area for roosters or if there’s a drop to deep water larger pelagics such as billfish, dorado and tuna could be lurking.

Big boulders and other debris from a landslide is also a tell-tale sign that there could be submerged structure holding fish. See a spine of high spots or ridges descending to the waterline? Imagine those same ridges or plateaus creating underwater seamounts and pinnacles. Even as simple as looking at rock formations that are covered with white bird poop can be a great way to find fish. Foraging birds such as pelicans and gulls will take up residence or stay in areas where bait fish congregate. They eat. They poop. Where bait fish go…you’ll often find predator fish waiting to eat them as well. And that’s where you should be looking too!

La tierra tiene muchas secretos! “The land has many secrets” and they could help you find more fish on your next Baja fishing soiree.

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

I AM AN ILLEGAL ALIEN! – Published May 2004 – Western Outdoor News

I am a fugitive from the law here in Mexico. About 4 days ago, I was informed that I was an “undocumented worker” and technically I had to leave the country.

Over a year ago, I had to revise my working papers here in Baja. I’ve been here 10 years now, but due to changes in the business, we started a revision of my work visa. Let me tell you, even to hear locals tell you, Mexico has more “agencies” for every little thing and each has it’s own rules, regulations and idiosyncrasies. For instance, one agency draws up the paperwork. You have to take those papers to another agency to verify it’s correct. Someone else checks the signature. You have to turn in your supporting affidavits and things like work records, associations, degrees, etc, to someone else. Another agency tells you all the things that were wrong with the paper from the beginning. And then you start over if anything is wrong. Along the way, of course, there’s fees! Often you are told there’s a fee, but you cannot pay that fee to the agency. You have to go to the bank. You pay the money. They give you a receipt. You then wait in line again at the agency to show you paid the fee. You get a stamp.

Well, I got stamped the other day, “DENIED”! In big bright red ink. My work papers had been canceled on the grounds that “I take jobs that a Mexican could perform.” Legally, a foreigner cannot get work papers to do a job that a local would do. Hence, I could not apply to be a waiter, taxi driver, cook, panga skipper, etc. But…you see, I BRING jobs here. We EMPLOY a lot of people. We fill hotel rooms and taxi vans and keep a lot of people working.

I appealed and fortunately, it turned out to have been a clerical error. WHEW! But, technically, until the new paperwork arrived, I was an “undocumented worker.” I was an “illegal alien,” if you will, and was laughingly told I could technically be arrested. Hmmmmm….No thanks!

It made me think about all the stuff going on in the U.S. right now about immigration and work rights. Being down here in Mexico, I think I’m in a unique position. Honestly, I hardly understand all the issues and ramifications. I certainly know how many Americans feel from watching the news as well as how many legal and illegal folks living in the U.S. feel, but I figured I’d talk to some folks on the street who actually live in Mexico and know friends and family that have gone to the U.S. for work. This is by no means comprehensive but wanted to share some of the comments:

Emily Torres (22 year old hotel receptionist) – “People need to work to support themselves. I do not understand all the protests in the U.S., but I know that many of us do not like that we have to move to another country to find jobs. There was going to be a big boycott in Mexico against U.S. companies like MacDonalds and Burger King but we realized that it would only hurt Mexicans who work and own those places.”

Jorge Cota (34 year old taxi driver) – “The United States has a right to use fences. It is like my home. I do not let just anyone come and use my yard or my kitchen without permission. I have a fence so I can only let in who I want. When I have a barbecue I only let me friends come in, not the whole barrio (neighborhood)”

Luz Rojas (33 year old kitchen worker) – “I do not like that people leave our country. It means our country is not taking care of it’s own people if we cannot find work. I know I could make more money if I were like my cousins who went to Tijuana to get to the United States. Their money supports their families in Mexico who do not have enough food. They are all good people. They do not like breaking laws. I know Americans are angry. I do not like that they will say they will arrest everyone. People are only trying to eat. It is a difficult situation.”

Alfredo Gerardo (68 year old businessman) – “I understand people crossing the border. I used to live in the States and it is easier there than here (in Mexico), but our own government is stupid. Americans should be angry. I do not blame Americans. Our own government should create better jobs and lives so Mexicans do not have to be illegally working in the States. It is the fault of the Mexican government.”

AERO CALIFORNIA ALERT – I actually saw a fully dressed flight crew a few days ago and apparently test flights have been conducted between Los Angeles and La Paz, but the airline now says no flights until June 6.

BANDANA ALERT – I don’t often get to see the column because I’m down here in Baja, but was FAX’d copies of the letter from the gent who said I looked like a “gangbanger” because of the do-rag bandana I wear. No offense taken. Not the first person who didn’t like the way I looked. I have no delusions that I’m short, brown and look goofy. Even mom said so. I spend 10 hours a day in the Baja sun. Unfortunately, I grew through my haircut a few years ago and to me, the bandana is light. It’s cool. I can wear it under my straw hat. I can wet it to keep me cooler and frankly, I’ve had a run with skin cancer already. You should try it…the do-rag, not the skin cancer! It’s a necessity, not a fashion statement.

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

FLEX TIME IN BAJA – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News

Late spring and early summer is probably my favorite time to fish the Baja. It’s a great time to be on the water. We’re usually past the winter chill and ahead of the summer heat, not to mention the summer crowds. Beyond that, we don’t measure the change of seasons by the blooming of flowers, we measure it by how the fishing suddenly starts to go off.

This time of year may not provide the biggest fish; or the glamour fish; we often associate with Baja fishing, but from the northern to the southern tip and from Pacific to Sea of Cortez, this is just a fun time to fish, mainly because the variety of fish and conditions keep it lively, interesting and a real challenge. Anyone can pop a dorado during July when there’s 20 of them swarming the boat eating bait, jigs or pieces of your lunch burrito. When the tuna are foaming and licking the paint off the boat, so that you can jackpole them, there’s not much to that either. Don’t get me wrong. I get as amped as the next guy for a dorado or tuna chew, but there’s something special about May and early June.

For one, the waters are changing. Fingers of warm waters are moving in. But, cooler waters are still hanging out. It’s “transition” time for everything. Winds can still happen, but are diminishing. Cooler air temps are being nudged by longer balmier days.

All of this adds up to some great variety on the fishing grounds. Cooler water fish are still hanging out. Cabrilla (seabass); sierra ; various rock and reef fish are still in the fish zones, but with increasing frequency, more amberjack, yellowtail, jack crevalle, pompano, various species of snappers (pargo) including the big mullet snapper, red snapper and dog tooths are up in the shallows, while the exotic roosterfish start terrorizing the bait schools in the shallows.

But, by the same token, with warmer waters moving in you start seeing increased numbers of marlin, sailfish, tuna, dorado and wahoo…the bluewater badboys that put Baja on the map. As the waters get warmer, these species become more pre-dominant. The thing is, you literally never know what you’re going to catch from one moment to the next if you’re soaking a hook. While out on the water just last week, I keyed on the radio chatter and heard boats on hook-ups with everything from sailfish to wahoo and from roosters to pargo. On our own boats, I checked the beach and counted 17 different species had been hooked on that single day alone.

I’m usually not a big advocate of dragging down a lot of gear on a Baja trip, but if you’re coming down in the next few weeks, prepare for some different looks. Just because the tuna or roosters don’t bite on a given day, listen to your skipper and be ready to change tactics. Don’t be myopic about your fishing or get your underwear all bunched.. This stuff is changing daily. Roll with it and have some fun. One day the baits might work. The next your pink ugly lure might be the ticket. The next day the fish will only eat a stinky sock!

Also in certain areas of the water temperatures might spike real fast and warm quickly, the fish will sometimes get lockjaw as they adjust (like goldfish in an aquarium) to the new environment. If the inshore isn’t working head outside and vise versa. If the fish won’t chew the live bait; try plastics or jigs. Work structure. Hunt the porpoise schools. Look for temperature and current breaks. Take the fight to the fish and enjoy a great time to be in the Baja.

AERO CALIFORNIA UPDATES – No flights for the rest of May. However, according to my sources, pilots and flight attendants are on standby and according to the local La Paz newspaper, several test flights have been taken between Los Angeles, La Paz and Mexico City. My neighbors near the La Paz airport hear the jets revving every morning.

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

HOW CINCO DE MAYO SAVED THE U.S. – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News

I always enjoy seeing how other countries, cultures and nationalities celebrate their holidays. You learn an awful lots by seeing how days like Easter and Christmas are observed.

The one that always got me was Cinco de Mayo. How many of you reading this actually know why Americans seem to go bonkers at their local watering hole yelling “Viva Mexico.” Even to my Mexican friends, it seemed like a fairly minor Mexican holiday. I always felt it was just another excuse to fire up the barbecue and drink beer popularized mostly by a certain beer company that begins with the letter “C” and makes some great commercials.

Even Mexico barely celebrates it from what I can see. It’s kind of a funny circle. Americans THINK it’s a major holiday so they party royal in the U.S. and certainly when they come to Mexico. However, Mexico only seems to wear the party hats because that’s what the Americans expect! In reality, I always figured it was like Mexican tourists coming to the U.S. to celebrate Arbor Day or Flag Day (remember those?). No big whup unless I was a bar owner and it meant increased liquor sales then by all means, let’s par-TAY!

Out of curiosity, I did a bit of research. In reality, while Cinco de Mayo isn’t a top-shelf holiday like Sept. 15th (Independence Day) when it declared it’s freedom from Mother Spain, the battle that took place in Puebla in May 5th, 1862, actually had some important ramifications for the U.S.

It’s the day that 4,000 raggedy and often barefooted Mexican troops faced an army of 8,000 French (yes THOSE French) who at the time, were among Europe’s finest; most veteran; and well-equipped troops. The cocky French were pretty sure that when they attacked, the Mexicans would run in the face of the fancy lancers and dragoons. (Peasant and rebel armies often did that in those days when faced with the spit-and-polish ramrod troops of that age).

The French even came with their newly formed “French Foreign Legion” the equivalent of sending in the U.S. Rangers and Delta guys. Well, the French were pretty cocky and committed all kinds of tactical errors and the Mexican army, some armed with just machetes, didn’t just stand up to one of Europe’s finest…they basically kicked the French in their collective foi gras. For many days later, the Mexican army chased what was left of the screaming French army through the Mexican hills.

You see, after befriending the U.S. just several decades earlier in our Revolutionary War, French sentiment had changed. Emperor Napolean III detested the U.S. and had planned to supply the Confederate troops embroiled in our own Civil War north of the border with guns and other arms which could have turned the war against Abe Lincoln and the north. Just fourteen months after the battle of Puebla, General Lee was defeated by the Union Army at Gettysberg, Pennsylvania essentially ending the confederate threat to the north and preserving the union.

With the confederate forces in retreat, union guns and arms were rushed to the Mexican border to help Mexico expel the French once-and-for-all liberating Mexico from all European rule as an independent nation. At the end of the Civil War, Union soldiers were even encouraged to join the Mexican army to fight the French.

It seems many Mexicans did not forget and it’s a hidden story about how many Mexican Nationals joined the the U.S. Armed forces after Pearl Harbor and as recently as the Vietnam and Persian Gulf War and the current conflicts, how many Mexicans went to consulates in an attempt to fight another war for the U.S and did end up enlisting.

So bottom line and a bit of logic stretching, Cinco de Mayo and 4,000 chippy barefooted Mexicans with machetes saved the Union and your right to drink beer in May…among other things. Viva Mexico indeed! (I found this info on a great website: www.vivacincodemayo.org/history.htm).

LATEST ON AERO CAL – Pilots and flight attendants have been called and told to get ready to return to work. Mechanics have been seen working on planes in La Paz and inspections are taking place in several destinations. Callers to Aero California have been told the airline “will be back in service around May 22nd.”

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

HOW CINCO DE MAYO SAVED THE U.S. – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News

I always enjoy seeing how other countries, cultures and nationalities celebrate their holidays. You learn an awful lots by seeing how days like Easter and Christmas are observed.

The one that always got me was Cinco de Mayo. How many of you reading this actually know why Americans seem to go bonkers at their local watering hole yelling “Viva Mexico.” Even to my Mexican friends, it seemed like a fairly minor Mexican holiday. I always felt it was just another excuse to fire up the barbecue and drink beer popularized mostly by a certain beer company that begins with the letter “C” and makes some great commercials.

Even Mexico barely celebrates it from what I can see. It’s kind of a funny circle. Americans THINK it’s a major holiday so they party royal in the U.S. and certainly when they come to Mexico. However, Mexico only seems to wear the party hats because that’s what the Americans expect! In reality, I always figured it was like Mexican tourists coming to the U.S. to celebrate Arbor Day or Flag Day (remember those?). No big whup unless I was a bar owner and it meant increased liquor sales then by all means, let’s par-TAY!

Out of curiosity, I did a bit of research. In reality, while Cinco de Mayo isn’t a top-shelf holiday like Sept. 15th (Independence Day) when it declared it’s freedom from Mother Spain, the battle that took place in Puebla in May 5th, 1862, actually had some important ramifications for the U.S.

It’s the day that 4,000 raggedy and often barefooted Mexican troops faced an army of 8,000 French (yes THOSE French) who at the time, were among Europe’s finest; most veteran; and well-equipped troops. The cocky French were pretty sure that when they attacked, the Mexicans would run in the face of the fancy lancers and dragoons. (Peasant and rebel armies often did that in those days when faced with the spit-and-polish ramrod troops of that age).

The French even came with their newly formed “French Foreign Legion” the equivalent of sending in the U.S. Rangers and Delta guys. Well, the French were pretty cocky and committed all kinds of tactical errors and the Mexican army, some armed with just machetes, didn’t just stand up to one of Europe’s finest…they basically kicked the French in their collective foi gras. For many days later, the Mexican army chased what was left of the screaming French army through the Mexican hills.

You see, after befriending the U.S. just several decades earlier in our Revolutionary War, French sentiment had changed. Emperor Napolean III detested the U.S. and had planned to supply the Confederate troops embroiled in our own Civil War north of the border with guns and other arms which could have turned the war against Abe Lincoln and the north. Just fourteen months after the battle of Puebla, General Lee was defeated by the Union Army at Gettysberg, Pennsylvania essentially ending the confederate threat to the north and preserving the union.

With the confederate forces in retreat, union guns and arms were rushed to the Mexican border to help Mexico expel the French once-and-for-all liberating Mexico from all European rule as an independent nation. At the end of the Civil War, Union soldiers were even encouraged to join the Mexican army to fight the French.

It seems many Mexicans did not forget and it’s a hidden story about how many Mexican Nationals joined the the U.S. Armed forces after Pearl Harbor and as recently as the Vietnam and Persian Gulf War and the current conflicts, how many Mexicans went to consulates in an attempt to fight another war for the U.S and did end up enlisting.

So bottom line and a bit of logic stretching, Cinco de Mayo and 4,000 chippy barefooted Mexicans with machetes saved the Union and your right to drink beer in May…among other things. Viva Mexico indeed! (I found this info on a great website: www.vivacincodemayo.org/history.htm).

LATEST ON AERO CAL – Pilots and flight attendants have been called and told to get ready to return to work. Mechanics have been seen working on planes in La Paz and inspections are taking place in several destinations. Callers to Aero California have been told the airline “will be back in service around May 22nd.”

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

LIFE ON THE FRONTIER – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News

I was invited to a barbecue a few weeks ago in the casita (little house) of one of our captains. It was Sunday in the late afternoon. A real flojo (lazy) day with nothing in particular to do. Chickens and stray dogs pecked around the hard packed dirt yard bordered by a seemingly impenetrable fence of brilliant bougainvillea and shrub cactus. The ladies bustled around and the kids did what all kids do…giggle underfoot in the haze of dust you just get used to anywhere in the Baja.

The fish and carne asada sizzled off the asadero built on a lopsided brick chiminea and, of course, large ballenas of Pacifico beer insulated in newspaper dangled from every hand. Manly-man time for cousins and brothers and uncles and dads to sit around the fire as guys do every Sunday no matter what side of the border you call home. I had known most of these guys for years, but it’s always an honor to be invited to a home and a special treat to see the amigos outside of our usual work environment on the beaches and boats.

Some of the guys, I hadn’t seen since the end of last season which was about October or November. I’m usually in the states once the season is over repairing gear; doing trade shows; doing promotions and getting ready for the next season. So I happened to ask, “What do most of the captains do during the off-season?”

“Some of us don’t do anything!” laughed one captain. “If the season has been good, we can take some time off and only work when we want to.”

“Some of us do anything we can to stay out of the casa!” roared another to the laughter of all. As if echoing the sentiments of many a married hombre, “ Otherwise my wife gives me too many projectos (projects!) Even if I don’t have to work I find something else to do so I stay out of the house! I clean the boat a lot!”

“Jonathan, most of us do some kind of work during the winter months. Some of the younger captains go to work in the chili ranches.”

“But that is very hard work,” explained a younger cousin in between bites of carne asado taco and licking his juicy fingers. “We work 6 days a week and 10 hours a day. We make 20 pesos (two dollars) a day and we don’t get paid until they sell the chilis, but at least it’s something.”

“Many of the captains fish commercially so they head south or north to work from fish camps and come home every few days,” said another staring into the crackling mesquite fire. “And then some of the guys also carry drugs too!” he added looking up with a smile and wink.

“Andale! Es verdad. (It’s true) they seemed to laugh in unison with about half the guys suddenly cracking up with a story or two about “knowing-someone-who-knew-someone-who-knew-someone-who made pretty good money carrying paquetes (packages).

I just HAD to know more about this…

As it was explained to me, no one asks questions. You get instructions. You make a pick up somewhere in your boat or panga and you bring the “package” from point A to point B. You touch nothing. You know nothing. You see nothing. You are merely a water taxi service. Not something you want to do on a regular basis, but when the kids need food and the car breaks down and mama needs new shoes…

“Es la vida en la frontera, Jonathan. (That’s life on the frontier) People do what they have to do to survive, “ he said and all hoisted their Pacificos for a long wet pull and knowing smiles. “Salud!” (to your heath!)

Bet you always wondered what your favorite captain did when you weren’t down here!

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

LIFE ON THE FRONTIER – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News

I was invited to a barbecue a few weeks ago in the casita (little house) of one of our captains. It was Sunday in the late afternoon. A real flojo (lazy) day with nothing in particular to do. Chickens and stray dogs pecked around the hard packed dirt yard bordered by a seemingly impenetrable fence of brilliant bougainvillea and shrub cactus. The ladies bustled around and the kids did what all kids do…giggle underfoot in the haze of dust you just get used to anywhere in the Baja.

The fish and carne asada sizzled off the asadero built on a lopsided brick chiminea and, of course, large ballenas of Pacifico beer insulated in newspaper dangled from every hand. Manly-man time for cousins and brothers and uncles and dads to sit around the fire as guys do every Sunday no matter what side of the border you call home. I had known most of these guys for years, but it’s always an honor to be invited to a home and a special treat to see the amigos outside of our usual work environment on the beaches and boats.

Some of the guys, I hadn’t seen since the end of last season which was about October or November. I’m usually in the states once the season is over repairing gear; doing trade shows; doing promotions and getting ready for the next season. So I happened to ask, “What do most of the captains do during the off-season?”

“Some of us don’t do anything!” laughed one captain. “If the season has been good, we can take some time off and only work when we want to.”

“Some of us do anything we can to stay out of the casa!” roared another to the laughter of all. As if echoing the sentiments of many a married hombre, “ Otherwise my wife gives me too many projectos (projects!) Even if I don’t have to work I find something else to do so I stay out of the house! I clean the boat a lot!”

“Jonathan, most of us do some kind of work during the winter months. Some of the younger captains go to work in the chili ranches.”

“But that is very hard work,” explained a younger cousin in between bites of carne asado taco and licking his juicy fingers. “We work 6 days a week and 10 hours a day. We make 20 pesos (two dollars) a day and we don’t get paid until they sell the chilis, but at least it’s something.”

“Many of the captains fish commercially so they head south or north to work from fish camps and come home every few days,” said another staring into the crackling mesquite fire. “And then some of the guys also carry drugs too!” he added looking up with a smile and wink.

“Andale! Es verdad. (It’s true) they seemed to laugh in unison with about half the guys suddenly cracking up with a story or two about “knowing-someone-who-knew-someone-who-knew-someone-who made pretty good money carrying paquetes (packages).

I just HAD to know more about this…

As it was explained to me, no one asks questions. You get instructions. You make a pick up somewhere in your boat or panga and you bring the “package” from point A to point B. You touch nothing. You know nothing. You see nothing. You are merely a water taxi service. Not something you want to do on a regular basis, but when the kids need food and the car breaks down and mama needs new shoes…

“Es la vida en la frontera, Jonathan. (That’s life on the frontier) People do what they have to do to survive, “ he said and all hoisted their Pacificos for a long wet pull and knowing smiles. “Salud!” (to your heath!)

Bet you always wondered what your favorite captain did when you weren’t down here!

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

Jonathan

BOOKING YOUR BAJA TRIP – Published April 2005 – FEATURE ARTICLE WESTERN OUTDOORS MAGAZINE

So, you’ve decided to finally step over the line! After hearing all the stories and reading all the literature, you’ve finally convinced yourself to come over to the “other side”…the other side of the border, that is. You’re finally going to plan that Baja trip you’ve promised yourself for ages.

It’s not that hard, but maybe wading through all the information has you confused. You see all the ads in WON. Maybe you’ve been to the fishing shows. Bob from work always books with a certain fleet. Your brother-in-law, Ed, always takes a group of guys each year and uses his favorite operation. You read on an internet board about some operation you want to stay away from. Should you bring your family? (Or not!) You want to catch tuna, but not marlin. You want to fish for those wiley pargo and yellowtail and a roosterfish certainly looks nice. Do you need a cruiser? What’s up with a panga? You heard those were fun. You want a nice place to stay, but you sure don’t want a place that will set you back a month’s mortgage either. And what about when you’re not fishing? Can you SCUBA dive or ride an ATV? Is there shopping? Nightlife? Peace and quiet? Questions…questions…questions…

One of the nice things about booking these days is the amount of information that’s available. Bookstores, magazines, the internet and scores of other sources have just about anything you could want. Baja is one of those places that never lacks for some scribe willing to put pen to paper and write about it. But the other side of the coin is that there’s simply too much information. There must be a way to simplify things.

For the first timer, or even someone who wants to try a new place in Baja, I’d ask yourself several questions

What dates or time of year am I looking at and how flexible am I on dates?
What do you want to catch?
What type of fishing am I interested in doing (Stand up? Trolling? Flyfishing? Kayak? Light tackle? Etc.)
What is my group like? (Solo? Fishing buddy? Significant other? Family?)
What are the interests of my group (Only fishing? Vacation with some fishing? Hardcore? Shopping? Other watersports? Willing to rough it a bit?)
How important is it to be near town?

If you start with at least this “core” of answers you can approach your prospective
agent or fleet or hotel with some concrete requirement so they can best help you with some solutions. As someone who does this for a living, there’s nothing like getting a 5 page e-mail from someone who wants to do everything and has no other ideas beyond that. It takes awhile to narrow it all down.

Once you have a pretty good idea about that jumping-off point, you need to look at getting someone to set it up for you. Of course, you can do it yourself. That is always an option. But then, you might be back at square one? Are you going to call up all 50 different fleets and hotels? Are you going to surf the web well into the dawn reading and comparing websites or checking online for the best plane flights? Factor that into your decision.

You can always call someone who can take care of all or at least the majority of the bookings. Time is money. This is where you need to do a little talking or checking. Who have your buddies used? Which ads do you constantly see in your favorite publications? Who is always at the trade shows or who’s names constantly keep coming up? Who keeps posting the fishing reports? Frankly, word-of-mouth is the best referral in my book. See who others recommend and why. If someone has been around for awhile, that’s usually a good sign. The travel biz is competitive and quirky. Folks come and go, but the good operations have staying power

Get that information then contact those folks. Ask questions. Get a feel for the operation. Do they respond quickly? Are they helpful? What does the price include so that you’re not surprised at the end by finding out you that lunches or bait or transfers are not included. Some operations charge tax and gratuity and include it in your price so make sure that the price they quote is the price you’re going to pay. Additionally, if you answered the questions that I told you about at the beginning of this article, then you’ll have a good basis of questions to ask the operator. Make sure they are the right person for what you want. . You might want to ask if the person you talk to really knows his or her stuff. There are a lot of “agents” out there who do a good job. There are others out there who are merely wholesalers and sit in their offices all day and couldn’t tell you whether tuna bite in June or December. They are reading off a brochure and don’t know if the lobster in one hotel is better than another or if there are kid-friendly facilities available. I know quite a few who have never even visited the cities they supposedly represent or the fishing operations they book for. Try to talk to someone who knows their gig. See if they offer options (choices of hotels, choices of fishing styles, other activities, etc. ) This will help avoid an operator who is only in the pocket of one vendor/fleet, etc. and will give you, the consumer more options on your vacation.

Here’s a few things I would never do when booking a trip:

· Do not wait until the last minute to book your trips. Good rooms and skippers get booked early. The guy or room you get may be great, but could also be the last guy on the beach or the room no one else wants. Airline tickets could also be higher for the last-minute booking

· Do not book your trip from guys on the beach or marina. I run into so many folks who just say, “I’ll find someone down on the beach to fish with.” There are certainly some good independents working the beaches and wharfs, but there are also some bad ones too. How do you know which are which? Who is going to take you for a ride? I’ve run into some good guys and I’ve gotten other guys who never showed up the next day or the boat they showed me the day before was not the boat that showed up on the beach.

· Do not fish for fish that are not there. Don’t get mad if you tell a skipper or crew you want to fish for marlin and marlin are just not there. Anything can happen in the Sea of Cortez and probably will, but your chances of finding a marlin in San Felipe; a dorado in December in San Quintin; a roosterfish in Cabo San Lucas in January or tuna off the rocks in Loreto are slim. Fish for what’s there.

· Do not ever give cash to someone you meet on the docks or beaches for a fishing trip the next day and certainly not anyone you meet in a bar. If they say they need money for gas, then maybe you can give him some money, but if they need gas, then it might be best to find someone who already has gas in their boat. This does not apply to reputable operators who have things all set up, but is geared towards guys you might meet in a bar or on the beach called “coyotes” by those of us who have established operations. Some are good, but others will take your money and never show up the next day.

This is your vacation and you don’t want any surprises especially in a place where you don’t understand the language. Price is important, but it is not the only criterion for booking or not booking with a certain operation. Remember, there are bargains out there, but you really do get what you pay for and nothing is really free. A good trip is not cheap and a cheap trip is not good. As with any major purchase you make, don’t break the bank, but get the best you can afford.

Just remember that the operator can’t make fish jump in the boat or affect the weather, but by the same token, they should be giving you the best opportunity to catch fish and/or give you the accommodations or amenities that you want for your trip.