LIFE ON THE FRONTIER – Published May 2006 – Western Outdoor News
I was invited to a barbecue a few weeks ago in the casita (little house) of one of our captains. It was Sunday in the late afternoon. A real flojo (lazy) day with nothing in particular to do. Chickens and stray dogs pecked around the hard packed dirt yard bordered by a seemingly impenetrable fence of brilliant bougainvillea and shrub cactus. The ladies bustled around and the kids did what all kids do…giggle underfoot in the haze of dust you just get used to anywhere in the Baja.
The fish and carne asada sizzled off the asadero built on a lopsided brick chiminea and, of course, large ballenas of Pacifico beer insulated in newspaper dangled from every hand. Manly-man time for cousins and brothers and uncles and dads to sit around the fire as guys do every Sunday no matter what side of the border you call home. I had known most of these guys for years, but it’s always an honor to be invited to a home and a special treat to see the amigos outside of our usual work environment on the beaches and boats.
Some of the guys, I hadn’t seen since the end of last season which was about October or November. I’m usually in the states once the season is over repairing gear; doing trade shows; doing promotions and getting ready for the next season. So I happened to ask, “What do most of the captains do during the off-season?”
“Some of us don’t do anything!” laughed one captain. “If the season has been good, we can take some time off and only work when we want to.”
“Some of us do anything we can to stay out of the casa!” roared another to the laughter of all. As if echoing the sentiments of many a married hombre, “ Otherwise my wife gives me too many projectos (projects!) Even if I don’t have to work I find something else to do so I stay out of the house! I clean the boat a lot!”
“Jonathan, most of us do some kind of work during the winter months. Some of the younger captains go to work in the chili ranches.”
“But that is very hard work,” explained a younger cousin in between bites of carne asado taco and licking his juicy fingers. “We work 6 days a week and 10 hours a day. We make 20 pesos (two dollars) a day and we don’t get paid until they sell the chilis, but at least it’s something.”
“Many of the captains fish commercially so they head south or north to work from fish camps and come home every few days,” said another staring into the crackling mesquite fire. “And then some of the guys also carry drugs too!” he added looking up with a smile and wink.
“Andale! Es verdad. (It’s true) they seemed to laugh in unison with about half the guys suddenly cracking up with a story or two about “knowing-someone-who-knew-someone-who-knew-someone-who made pretty good money carrying paquetes (packages).
I just HAD to know more about this…
As it was explained to me, no one asks questions. You get instructions. You make a pick up somewhere in your boat or panga and you bring the “package” from point A to point B. You touch nothing. You know nothing. You see nothing. You are merely a water taxi service. Not something you want to do on a regular basis, but when the kids need food and the car breaks down and mama needs new shoes…
“Es la vida en la frontera, Jonathan. (That’s life on the frontier) People do what they have to do to survive, “ he said and all hoisted their Pacificos for a long wet pull and knowing smiles. “Salud!” (to your heath!)
Bet you always wondered what your favorite captain did when you weren’t down here!
That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.
Jonathan
That's My Story 
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