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BARBARIANS AT THE GATES – Originally published week of Dec. 7, 2010 in Western Outdoor News

Posted in Baja Fishing, Baja Mexico Fishing, Fishing, fishing tournaments, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Tailhunter International, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications on December 4, 2010| Leave a Comment »

 

Just the way it is these days...

The precious little blue book. "Next in line please..."

BARBARIANS AT THE GATES

Originally Published the Week of Dec. 7, 2010 in Western Outdoor News               

                 I’ve been out’ve the U.S. for awhile now.  It’s the longest I have ever been out of the United States since moving down to La Paz.  Usually, I run back and forth a bit for business, but this year, the opportunity just never presented itself.  We were thankfully, very busy all season.

                So, I just happened to make it back for Thanksgiving for a few days to visit family in Southern California. I found myself standing in line at the U.S. border crossing at Tijuana.

                It was a long line.  Really long.  Out-the-building-long.

                But only for Mexicans. 

                If you were in the line like me ostensibly holding a U.S. passport, we waited only a few minutes, although we were heavily searched.  The numerous other lines were barely moving. 

                “Sorry ’bout the smelly fishing clothes and socks on the top…I didn’t have time to do laundry before getting on the bus,” I apologized to  the  stern crew-cut-square-jawed border officer rummaging through my duffle who gave me the stinkeye. I’m sure he didn’t like going through my underwear anymore than I liked him digging around in there either. 

                “Senor, how come they get to go through and we have to wait so long?” I heard one older Mexican woman plead to a group of officers. 

                She wore a cotton dress and a heavy mis-matched jacket but bare-legged in the November chill.  I bet it took her hours to get near the front of the line. She could have been anyone’s mom or grandma. 

                 “Why are we ignored? Does anyone care?  I just want to buy some Christmas presents and go home,” she implored meekly in English.

                A group of officers nearby looking more like special forces, decked in black fatigues, high laced black combat boots and holstering enough firepower to put down a herd of charging elephants barely looked up from their computer screens.  Others simply held their sentry positions and continued to scan the crowds. 

                I’m sure they heard her.  I’m sure it wasn’t the first time someone had spoken up.

                It was late in the day.  One officer looked towards her and others in her line and gave an apologetic and sympathetic shrug.  I looked back at the other anxious folks in line too.

                They were looking back at me. Envying that I was now on the other side of the line.

                Long faces.  Tired weary eyes.  Working folks. Working clothes. Cheap jeans.  Tennis shoes and scruffy faces or in-some-cases, dressed up in their best travelling clothes they had…Dollar-store-quality.  But the best they had. 

                Lots of baseball hats.  Some cowboy hats.  Lined faces brown from the sun or cheap eye-make up or none at all. Small crying children.   Some seemed to be carrying pretty much all their possessions in their backpacks or shoulder bags.  They had waited for hours.  Get out-of-line, lose your place. The “huddled masses.”  Catatonic shuffling from too many hours waiting…and waiting.

                All hoping for a little movement. Forward.  Hoping they’ll get let “across”.

                What was the border officer going to say? Overworked. Understaffed. Under-appreciated.   Like all government workers these days facing a problem that had no solution.

                “Por favor?” I heard the senora say again.  “Please?” 

                Our eyes caught as I snatched up my bag from the inspection table.  I felt guilty.

                I wanted to say, “C’mon man, let her across.  She’s no more a terrorist or criminal than I am except for my smelly socks!”

                I couldn’t say that either. 

                What I wanted to say was I’m sorry it’s like this now.  I’m sorry that two countries and two people that share so much in common can’t just be neighbors anymore. I’m sorry. We have to inspect you now, neighbor.  We can’t lend you that cup of sugar.  You can’t just come over and hang-out and watch TV with the kids or play in the yard. 

                Nope.  And grandma can’t go shopping. And  families and friends can’t just go visit other families and friends.  We are separated by an invisible line marked by barbed wire and steel fences guarded by  broad-shouldered men-at-arms.

                I’m sorry there’s other people in the world with so much hate that we now  suspect everyone and trust no one. I’m sorry that the economics in one country are so bad that people will leave loved ones to work illegally in the other country.  I’m sorry that my country feels it must be a citadel now and the barbarians are at the gates.

                Wearing cowboy hats and scuffed-shoes and cotton dresses.  Don’t wanna take our jobs.  Or bomb our buildings or traffic drugs.  And just wanting to buy some Christmas presents and go home.

                Lo siento mucho, Senora…I’m very sorry…for all of us. I wished the inspector a better day.  For all of us.  All he said was, “Next.”

                 I lowered my eyes; shouldered my backpack and hurried out into the chilly dusk  to catch my bus.

That’s my story…

_____________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been the Baja columnist and editor for Western Outdoor News since 2004.  He lives in La Paz where he and his wife, Jill, own and operate the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet www.tailhunter-international.com as well as their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the historic La Paz waterfront.  Stop by and say hello if you’re in town.  Jonathan can be reached via e-mail at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com

Jonathan Roldan’s 

Tailhunter International

Website: www.tailhunter-international.com

U.S. Office: 3319 White Cloud Drive, Suite A, Hacienda Hts. CA 91745

Mexico Office: 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico

Phones:

from USA : 626-638-3383

from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863

.

Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report:

http://www.tailhunter-international.com/fishreport.htm

Tailhunter YouTube Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate

 

“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”

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“Just shut up for a moment…”

Posted in Baja Fishing, Baja Mexico Fishing, Dehydration, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, fishing tournaments, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Tailhunter International, Uncategorized, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications on November 21, 2010| 4 Comments »

 

       

JUST SHUT UP FOR A MOMENT. ..

Originally Published the Week of Nov. 24, 2010 in Western Outdoor News

           Having spent almost 2 decades here now in Baja, I have experienced some incredible adventures.  But some of my best experiences have happened when absolutely nothing is happening. I’ll explain.

            So often, when we have visitors or clients here, there’s a mad rush to be here…do that…experience this…cram as much excitement into a vacation as possible.  I get it.  I love it.  I’m the same way myself.  When you’re \in the tourist industry like us, it’s not bad for business either.  No complaints!

            But some of the most rewarding times have been when we just crank it down a notch from super amp down to slo-mo.

            A perfect example is when we SCUBA dive.  Everyone is in a rush to get in the water.  See the mantas.  See the sharks.  Explore. Jump in!    Get from point A to point B and go “Diver Dan” on us.

            I often tell my folks, that at some point they will see me simply stop.  I explain that “this is not a race.”  It’s supposed to be fun.  I will simply stop swimming and let myself sink to the bottom and either kneel or lie there.  And I want them to do the same.

            I get some blank and questioning looks.

            But amazing things happen when we all shut up and slow down. It’s like that both above and below the water. 

            Look up.  Watch the slow ascent of bubbles to the surface.  Stop moving.  Fish suddenly don’t view us a huge threatening shapes.  They come out to investigate.  They swim close.  Schools swirl around us.  Little sea eels poke their curious heads out of the sand that we normally would not have seen.  Coral comes alive. A sea turtle comes to check us out. A sealion pup darts playfully in and out of the divers.  We’re now IN the big aquarium and it’s a wonderful show.

            I look around and even through the dive masks I can see smiling eyes!

            When I lived on the East Cape, I would sometimes take a few of the hotel guests up in the hills just to step away from the lights; the tequila shots and hooting at the bar. 

            One nice thing about Baja.  A few steps away and you’re out in the frontier wilderness.

            We’d walk up the hills just a few hundred yards up a path I knew well.  At the top of a hill, everyone would look back down from the darkness on the hotel lights and take a breath.  But, I would tell everyone, don’t look down…look up!

            And there would be a collective gasp of surprise!

            Zillions of stars…constellations…galaxies…shooting stars…an unimaginable  light show that could never be experienced unless you were up and away from the bustle. Other than some “oohs” and “ahhh” and alot of pointing into the night sky, not much else needed to be said.  An unforgettable experience found in silence.

            Sometimes when I’m guiding, I will do the same thing.  Stop the danged boat.  Look. Listen. Put down the beer cans, boys.

            Shhhh… Look at the birds.   See the ripples there.  Flat spots and current lines.   Water colors.  Those ripples are really nervous water with bait being pushed just below the surface.  Was that a jumper? Look closely.  Is that structure below us?

             Let’s just top chasing the fish and stop for a moment.  Let’s read the signs.  Throw some bait and let the fish come to us for once.  And, if not, enjoy the moment.  The noisy world will return soon enough when we rev up the motor again.

            Even in rowdy Cabo San Lucas a few weeks ago. After one of those days packed with activities and social events and parties related to the Western Outdoor News Tuna Jackpot, I stepped out onto our little patio behind our hotel room on the marina.   It was 2 a.m. in the morning.

            And it was a quiet you don’t often experience in Cabo.  No blaring disco music.  No hawkers on the sidewalk.  The yacht motors were idle.  The tour boats were all moored.  The outboards were all asleep for once.  The marina lights were beautiful and except for the sound of rigging occasionally pinging a mast from the sway of a boat, Cabo San Lucas was incredibly serene…a description not often associated with fast-paced Cabo.

            In a few hours, it would all return to a behive, but for that moment, I pulled out a patio chair and just sat and listened.  And sighed.  And imagined what it used to be like before we brought all the noise to Mexico and grateful to find a little slice of Baja serenity. They are few and far between and it’s too bad we have to actually search it out these days.

___________________

Jonathan Roldan has been a columnist for Western Outdoor News and editor since 2004. He lives with his wife, Jill, in La Paz , Baja Mexico where they own and operate the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fleet as well as the Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the historic La Paz waterfront.  www.tailhunter-international.com.   is their website.  If you’d like to reach Jonathan, his e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com

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WHERE DID THAT WIND COME FROM?

Posted in Baja Fishing, Baja Mexico Fishing, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Tailhunter International, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications on November 7, 2010| Leave a Comment »

WHERE DID THAT WIND COME FROM?

Originally Published the Week of Nov. 13, 2010 in Western Outdoor News

             “Man, it was like a washing machine out there!”

            “I wish I had brought a jacket.  I got soaked.”

            “My wife and I walked around last night and all we had were t-shirts.”

            “How come there were waves out there?”

            “Where did the wind come from?”

            “Where did all the dorado go?  We ended up fishing for roosterfish along the beach.”

            It’s that time of year when these are not unusual comments from some of the folks we’re getting down here visiting right now.  Especially, as we get closer to the holidays and more vacationers and families come in and fewer anglers looking for more than just fishing.  They’re looking for beach-time and recreation time.   They see the brochures.  They read the travel mags and envision long days of warm tans and chilly margaritas.

            And come down finding out that the margaritas aren’t the only thing that’s chilly!

            Many times, one of the comments above is quickly followed by, “But it was never like this in the other  years we were here.”

            I’m sure it wasn’t.   I’m sure the tuna and dorado were jumping in the boat and the sun was so hot, you were basting.  The kayaking was like a pond and the diving was like bathwater.

            But this is transitional time here in the Baja.  You just never know what it can be like.   The range of conditions varies. 

            As for us “locals” I know you can’t believe it, but you’ll see us wearing long pants and sweatshirts.  Captains will have jackets on in the mornings.  We use extra blankets at night.  Personally, I’m wearing (oh no!)…SOCKS! and my wife Jill occasionally puts on her UGG boats…those furry sheepskin things. 

            Yes, I know that sounds nutty but take a hint when you see us.  It’s not JULY so plan accordingly and you’ll keep surprises to a minimum.

            It can get chilly at times, especially in the mornings before the sun comes up.  Most evenings are pleasant for tourists although you’ll see locals dressed up a bit warmer, but for the mornings, bring a light windbreaker or sweatshirt.

            If you’re headed out for any watersports, winds and waves can change at any time.  If you’re on the Pacific or the Sea of Cortez, don’t be surprised by more northern winds that can make any trip a bit bouncier than normal.

             Of course, it can be flat calm as well, but bring the extra protections. There’s an old saying, ” It’s better than have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.”

            That goes for fishing.  Sure, you’re very likely to continue getting warm water species like tuna, dorado, wahoo and billfish, but what if it’s blown out too choppy or the waters have gotten colder?  Especially, if you’re fishing further north,  for example between Loreto and San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez or between Guerrero Negro and Tijuana on the Pacific, conditions will cool even more rapidly than normal. 

            Therefore, pack your fishing gear accordingly or at least adjust your expectations accordingly.  Be prepared to fish inshore or, don’t be surprised if your captain asks if you’d rather fish for cabrilla or snapper along the shorelines than get your teeth rattled offshore. 

            Or, in some cases, if it’s really windy, prepare to just stay on the shore and wait it out for another day.  Go shopping or hang out around the pool.  Why get beat up?  If you can,  leave some extra “empty” days in your vacation agenda so that you can postpone a windy day on the water and make up for it later when the winds die down.

            If you’re driving or camping this time of year,  take cold and wind into consideration as well.  High profile vehicles like RV’s or even towing a big boat or trailer can be hazardous if the winds come up. 

            I remember many times camping in the desert where I wish I had a heavier sleeping bag or high winds suddenly came up that shook our tents so badly we all retreated to spend the nights shivering in our vehicles. There were some awfully chilly mornings as well. 

            A little extra forethought and preparation will go a long way towards eliminating surprises.

__________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been the Baja Columnist and Editor for Western Outdoor News since 2006.  He lives in La Paz, Baja, Mexico where he and his wife own and run Tailhunter International Sportfishing  www.tailhunter-international.com and also own and operate the Tailhunter Restaurant and FUBAR Cantina on the historic La Paz waterfront.  He can be reached directly via e-mail at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com

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“GOING LOCAL!” Originally Published the Week of Oct. 26, 2010 in Western Outdoor News

Posted in Baja Fishing, Baja Mexico Fishing, Fishing, Fishing Tackle and Techniques, fishing tournaments, Jonathan Roldan, La Paz Fishing, Living in Mexico, Mexican Independence Day, Panga Fishing, Salt Water Fishing, Tailhunter International, Uncategorized, Western Outdoor News, Western Outdoor Publications on October 23, 2010| Leave a Comment »

The sun rises on another day on the Sea of Cortez in the Baja

“GOING LOCAL”

Originally Published the Week of Oct. 26, 2010 in Western Outdoor News

With more gringos moving down here or spending an increasing amount of time here in Mexico, it really does take awhile to get into the nuances of life down here.  After 15 years, I’m learning things every day.

           

You know you’re going “local” if…

 

1.      There’s no such thing as too fast or too slow on the highway.

2.      There is nothing that can’t be fixed with duct tape.

3.      You stop asking for a lime in your beer (tourists drink lime with beer)

4.      No lime or salt with your tequila either!  (locals drink it straight up and a good tequila, like whiskey or brandy,  is sipped and savored…not slammed and yelling “Whooo-hooooo!”)

5.      Formal wear consists of wearing socks for men and a closed-toe shoe for women.  (few places or events have a dress code…but see the next one)

6.      You really don’t care to stay out in the sun that long (it’s darned hot out there…it’s more fun watching the tourists turn to lobsters!)

7.      Except for the swimming, you would never go shirtless.  It’s considered bad form. Tourists walk around with no shirts.  But it’s OK to roll your t-shirt up under your man boobs and show your belly sticking out!

8.      You no longer tan to impress your nieghbors back home.

9.      You can cuss like the best of them (and you know what each word actually means!)

10.  A “good day” means getting 2 of the 10 things done on your “to-do-list.”

11.  Being “stressed” is worrying about the 8 things that didn’t get done.  So stop worrying.

12.  You don’t care that your one of your car’s blinkers doesn’t work and you rarely use your blinkers anyway  (Might as well be like everyone else)

13.  You understand that it’s OK if your neighbor booms his banda music until all hours. Culturally he’s not rude.  He’s being polite by “sharing”  (this is true)

14.  You’ve learned to pop a beer using your belt buckle, teeth, screwdriver, car keys, fishing pliers.  (The true test!)

15.  You realize you eat about 90 percent of your food with your fingers and hands.  (And wipe them on your socks…if you’re wearing them!)

16.  Stop signs, crosswalks and most red lights are merely “suggestions” not rules! (You’re not breaking a law unless a cop sees you and does something about it).

17.  God invented ice cold water to drink and hot water for showers.  Take neither for granted!

18.  You realize that “manana” doesn’t alway mean tomorrow.  Sometimes it  means “probably never.”

19.  You let the tourists take the fish fillets because you know that the best parts are the head,  the collar and the belly meat for soup and the barbecue!

20.  There’s nothing a mid-day siesta can’t cure.

21.  Meals take a long time

22.  You don’t need a “winter wardrobe.”

23.  It’s OK to take the bus

24.  Spicy is relative…and a “state of mind.”

25.  The longer the line the better the taco.

26.  Subtitles on Mexico TV are the best way to learn handy phrases like, “I’m going to kick your, butt!” or “Stick it in your ear!”

27.  Falling in love with someone who only speaks Spanish is the fastest way to learn Spanish

28.  You know that beer bottles in Mexico have a return value.  Cans are cheaper.

29.  People aren’t defined by their job.  Family is more important.

30.  Culturally,  job title is more important than the job or the salary.

31.  You always carry toilet paper somewhere in your car

32.  You start your Sundays with menudo, birria or pazole soup, not pancakes and eggs

33.  Going to the shopping mall is considered a “big outting.”

34.  It’s OK if the mail doesn’t come today.  Sometimes it never comes at all…ever. 

35.  It’s impolite to use the word, “no.”  “Maybe tomorrow” or “Next time” is more socially acceptable even if you’re telling a white lie. Just realize that if someone says “Maybe tomorrow” , they might be really mean, “no.”

36.  Being vague in conversation is socially acceptable. The art of telling the story is the essence. “Getting to the point” of a story is sometimes bad manners and rude. 

37.  You never ever go to a party or dinner without bringing something

38.  A favor is a gift.   Asking for a favor in return is impolite. 

39.  Make a friend…take their photo and give them a copy.  Many people have rarely ever seen photos of themselves.  We take it for granted.

40.  We take it for granted, but most folks do not have e-mail, cell phones, Twitter, Facebook or cars. 

41.  7 day weekends are perfectly acceptable!

___________________________________

Jonathan Roldan has been the Baja Editor for Western Outdoor News since 2004.  He lives with his wife Jill in La Paz, Mexico since 1996 where they own and run the Tailhunter International Sportfishing Fleet and the Tailhunter Restaurant & Bar on the historic La Paz waterfront.  www.tailhunter-international.com.   He can be reached directly via e-mail at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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