HEY, WHERE ‘D EVERYONE GO?
Originally published the week of Nov. 20, 2007 Western Outdoor News
And just like that, it was over. Where did everyone go?
Years ago when I worked boats in San Diego, it was the strangest thing. The fishing could be wide open. Boats would be packed, but once Labor Day showed up, it was like someone hit the light switch and everyone disappeared.
To many folks, the season was over. Time to do something else. Go shopping for ski clothes. Put the holiday turkey in the oven or something. Fish could be jumping in the boats, but once that Labor Day came and went, it was like the recess bell back in grade school. All stop. Line up and march inside. Don’t you dare let the kickball bounce one more time.
Well, it’s like that down here now too. I think it happened about 3 weeks ago. Just like that, everyone was gone.
From what I can see, fishing is still blazing. There’s fish to be caught. But not many are fishing. There’s not even many people here! Even when I was in Cabo San Lucas more than a week ago, town was relatively empty by Cabo standards.
Planes are empty. Boats remain tied up at the docks or moorings or lay covered on the beach above the tide line. The guys at the bait receiver are bored. Captains hang out at the cantinas drinking beer; revert to commercial fishing or go work driving a truck for the off-season or head out to work a rancho.
Sure, we’d all like to keep working, but in many ways, after a busy busy season, you can sort of hear a lot of the fishing areas, in Baja let out a collective sigh. Day-after-day we drag ourselves outta bed in the dark; work the waters; and come back in the dark. Eight, nine, ten, months straight. Very few days off.
Don’t get me wrong. We love our jobs and we’re blessed to be able to do something like this. But, let me tell ya…It’s a wonderful feeling to throw the alarm clock against the wall and still find yourself in bed when the sun is coming up!
This really is a neat time of year to be in the Baja. Whether north or south. Inland or along the coast.
I don’t know what it is. There’s a word here. It’s “tranquillo.” Peaceful. Easy. Slower.
The sun is at a different angle. Shadows are longer. The sun doesn’t blaze quite so hard. It’s almost “non-weather” compared to the broiling summers and the humid fall season. It’s so pleasant now you almost don’t even think about it.
There’s a breeze now coming from the north. It’s cooler in the mornings and evenings and you’re thankful for a windbreaker or sweatshirt. There’s a bit more chop on the waters and it’s a good time to watch the ocean from a seaside bar than to be out there on some of these days.
Look down the streets and except for an occasional taxi or local rusty dusty pickup truck, there’s not much activity. At the local cantina, you’ve got the bar to yourself and the cantinero (bar tender) is happy for your company. He willingly pours you the entire blender in your glass and makes it a double with a wink! He’ll also switch off the soccer game on the TV and find that NFL game no one else is playing.
No waiting at the restaurants either. You rarely hear, “Sorry, Senor. We just sold the last lobster. You should have come in earlier.” In fact, the whole staff is all over you as are the strolling mariachis musicians who recognize you as perhaps the only guy who might drop them a tip for another version of “La Bamba.”
In the stores and markets, there’s no Thanksgiving week like we have in the U.S. Mexico is already into Christmas.
The smaller stores have snowflakes and Santa painted on the windows. Large lots are being cleared for their deliveries of “fresh Christmas trees from Oregon” and the bigger stores are already floor to ceiling with toys. Stores are selling lots of those little ceramic Charles Dickens houses so you can build your own Christmas village in your front window. People are already putting up those little white icicle Christmas lights on their homes. I saw eggnog at the grocery store a few days ago. Yes, even here in Baja.
I like these days. I guess I can wash my rods and reels later. Cleaning out my tackle box can wait. It’s a nice time to find a hammock and catch up on some reading or a nice siesta!
That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.
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