FISHING THE SOUTHERN BAJA – Published Jan. 2005 – Feature Article Western Outdoor Magazine
Indeed, these are the waters of legend where just two-hours south of Los Angeles, anglers can bust their tackle and test their backs on probably more types of game-fish than any other place on the planet. Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the aquarium of the world” with more than 700 identified species of fish and some days, it seems like just about that many fish are available to catch. Certainly, year-round action on dozens of species can be had and, although, there are seasons for various fish, you really just never know what’s going to hammer your line whether it’s January or July. The area is a mecca for both inshore and offshore species and for all different styles of fishing whether from cruisers, multi-day boats; pangas, kayaks, flyfishing or surf.
From thousand-pound blue and black marlin to giant tuna; grey-hounding sailfish to the acrobatic dorado; exotic roosterfish to menacing-looking dog tooth snapper; torpedo-shaped wahoo to grumpy amberjack and yellowtail; the waters from picturesque La Paz to the north down to the the East Cape city of Los Barriles and over to San Jose and the electric city of Cabo San Lucas, sun, fun and fish are inherently entwined. The result is that these waters have become one of the premier fishing destinations in the world.
Generally speaking, like most of Baja, the land consists of rugged volcanic and pyroclastic formations reaching from the mountains and descending to the waters edge. This land mass was formed eons ago when the peninsula separated from the mainland of Mexico. It left the deep nutrient-rich rift now known as the Sea of Cortez. The semi-arid desert landscape is a stark contrast to the teal, turquoise and cobalt waters which kiss it’s beaches. Baja is a harsh land where water is scarce and daytime temperatures range from the 60’s into the low 100’s. The key to success is often recognizing that what’s “above the water” often mirrors what’s “below the water.” Steep cliffs dropping into the ocean probably continue below the surface. Arroyos (washes) where alluvial materials like sand, gravel and rock come cascading down to the ocean during seasonal rains probably create a similar “fan” below the surface and can extend for miles out to sea. A series of mountain or volcanic peaks near the coastline often extend out into the ocean and, over time, have become “seamounts” and “banks.” Tips of islands often have submerged reefs and ridges. Saddles between hills and mountains are often indicative of an underwater canyon extending out from the shore to the open water. All of these are excellent areas to chase your fish. If anything characterizes fishing the Southern Baja, it’s knowing where and when to fish the numerous banks, canyons, steep submarine escarpments and other structures that may be beyond your vision, but hold the kind of gamefish that make for a lifetime catch.
CABO SAN LUCAS and SAN JOSE del CABO
These two cities have been like brothers each with a mind and style of their own. Situated at the very tip of the Baja Peninsula, they were often as different as night and day. Cabo developed from a sleepy pueblito into a jet-setting-party-town where pricey real-estate joined hands with a year-round “spring-break” attitude of fun that attracts an international crowd of fun-seekers. In contrast, San Jose del Cabo (as well as nearby La Playita) retained it’s colonial character of small shops, boutique hotels and sidewalk cafes. (It will be interesting to see what the future holds with the new construction of the San Jose marina which brings many of Cabo’s characteristics with it to the excitement of some and the disdain of others).
Both cities are accessed by generally flying into the international airport at Los Cabos. The two cities are connected by the 10 mile umbilical stretch of beach highway seen on maps as Highway 1, but more commonly called “the corridor.” This is because of the seemingly endless expanse of condos and time-shares, hotels, developments and golf-courses that are becoming the hallmark of this toney stretch of beach. It’s the fishing, however, that really ties it all together.
As mentioned, it will be interesting to see the effect of the advent of the new San Jose Marina, but generally panga fishing from La Playita or from one of the nearby coves was the preferred method of fishing the local waters near San Jose. By comparison, although pangas are certainly available, there are few fleets as impressive as the “navy” of cruisers sitting in the Cabo San Lucas Marina. There’s a reason Cabo San Lucas is called the “Marlin Capital of the World” and if you’re going hunting in these waters, most anglers seem to prefer heading out in the cruisers. That’s not to say that pangas are ineffective. On the contrary, pangas get their share of fish and some of the largest fish every year from this area are taken on these amazing skiffs in the hands of some of the best skippers around. It’s a lot of fun and the panga skippers around San Jose will take a back-seat to no one. However, to reach some of the offshore banks, cruisers are the fishing machine of choice for offshore hunting the bad boys. Not only are the fish big and the waters sometimes distant, but facing the open Pacific ocean, even these relatively tranquil waters can become rough.
The banks off the southern cape are prolific. Facing straight south from Cabo, boats will head west then north into the Pacific Ocean towards the Jaime Bank and Golden Gate Bank where winter marlin and summer tuna, wahoo and dorado can hold court. Directly south, the submarine topography is marked by the steep sides of the San Lucas Canyon and an underwater escarpment that drops from 10 to more than 7500 feet deep in matter of a few miles. Heading east from Cabo but directly out from San Jose are the famous Inner Gordo and Outer Gordo Banks as well as the Gorda Trough that separates the Cabrilla Seamount approximately 10 miles from shore. These are the banks where the San Jose pangas hold homecourt serve as they are easily accessible from the nearby beaches yet are incredible fisheries for all Baja species. Inshore, numerous ridges, canyons and reefs mark the shoreline and the many arroyos visable from the ocean lead to underwater fans and banks that are perfect habitat for numerous inshore species such as pargo, roosterfish, cabrilla and grouper.
THE EAST CAPE
Like everything else, the little pueblos of the East Cape (the rounded hump of southern Baja jutting like an abbreviated “heel” into the Sea of Cortez) with their sugar-sand beaches; palm trees; palapa-roofed homes and “manana” life-style are giving way to multi-home developments and the sounds of “progress.” However, there’s a certain attitude on the East Cape. It contrasts sharply with anything else found in the Baja especially with their nearby city neighbors of La Paz, San Jose and certainly Cabo San Lucas. The little towns, especially Los Barriles, are connected to their civic brethren by Highway 1, but seem to exist in somewhat of a secluded state of self-existence where the folks who live there and visit there crave the perceived isolation of being away from the cities. Call it a bit of a pirate attitude mixed with a dash of Jimmy Buffet soundtrack and you get the East Cape. Ditch the highway. Hit the dirt road. Take off the loafers and Docker shorts and grab an old straw lifeguard hat and flip-flops. An unbloodied t-shirt is formal attire for dinner. Sushi bar? Only if you’re making it yourself. Cabana boy for your pool towel? Better ask your fishing buddy if he’s headed back to the room.
That’s not to say that a visit to the East Cape is san-luxury. On the contrary, some of Baja’s most famous fishing hotels are on this wild-stretch of land and most all amenities can be found from high-tech swimming pools to relaxing massages and air-conditioning to gourmet restaurants. If there’s something missing you probably didn’t need it. Just don’t expect a lot of nightlife. That’s in Cabo or, to a lesser degree, La Paz. Fishing, relaxing, good times with other anglers, and a fat cigar and a beer at night are a typical daily agenda. And, if you’re going to fish, you’d better lock and load.
The boats of the East Cape seem to work the whole ocean at times. As far south as the Gordo Banks and as far north as even Cerralvo Island and sometimes even further, the East Cape fleets seem to go as far as a tank of fuel and a tank full of bait will get them with both super pangas and cruisers available to visiting anglers. East Cape crews may acquiesce and let Cabo be the “marlin capital” but you’ll get a mouthful of argument if you challenge the East Cape’s claim to being “marlin alley.” Also marked by deep underwater canyons, and steep submarine topography, miles of deserted beaches and the only living coral reef in the entire Eastern Pacific (Cabo Pulmo); there’s no shortage of fish. Huge trophies are as easily caught inshore as cruising offshore where waters are generally calmer than those found off Cabo San Lucas since the East Cape marks the entrance to the more placid waters of the Sea of Cortez.
LA PAZ
For many anglers, La Paz is only a recent discovery. Approach any group of Baja veterans and there’s a good chance most if not all of them have been to the East Cape or Cabo San Lucas or other spots. Yet, few, if any will tell you they have fished La Paz. It’s often the last destination Baja anglers attempt to fish.
Surprisingly, La Paz is the largest city in Southern Baja, yet retains much of it’s “Old World” charm. It’s the capital of the state of Southern Baja and the location of the seat of government; the university; and much of the business economy, yet it’s an interesting mix of both the old and the new. It’s modern like Cabo San Lucas, without the glitz and glamour. (Half the city still takes a siesta at mid-day). On the other hand, it’s not quite as tranquil as the East Cape to the south or Loreto to the north, but strolling along the waterfront and eating tacos under a waving palm tree in the evenings are local pastimes. You don’t go to La Paz to do your souvenir shopping nor will you find time-shares on every corner or a Big Mac on every street. Tourism does not turn the wheels of this city-by-the-bay.. However, fishing certainly drives the wheels of tourism. It just doesn’t get all the publicity.
Reached by direct flights into it’s own Marquez de Leon International Airport, La Paz is a fishing anamoly. Anglers to the area actually get two choices to mix and match. They can either fish straight out from La Paz heading directly north out of the Bay of La Paz towards Espiritu Santo Island; the famous El Bajo Seamount; Punta Coyote, the Charro Bank and north Cerralvo Island. These waters can be prolific, especially during the warmer months for dorado, big marlin, sailfish and world-class tuna.
The other choice is a 1 hour van ride towards the southeast. Fleet operators pick up their anglers from hotel lobbies and shuttle them to Punta Arenas and Muertos Bay, which lays it’s own claim to being the “Roosterfish Capital of the World.” (Hard to argue with a 114 pound world record). Boarding pangas, anglers work Ventana Bay; Punta Perrico; the shark buoys; the famous “88 Spot”; South Cerralvo and many others. This area has been described in some publications as one of the finest “light tackle fisheries in the world.” But don’t let the extensive use of pangas fool you. These waters are ripe with billfish, tuna, dorado, wahoo and many much-sought-after inshore species such as dog-tooth snapper (pargo); pompano; jacks; sierra; cabrilla, amberjack; and of course, roosterfish which can all be caught literally just off the beach. In fact, the common denominator with all fishing in the La Paz area is that most all the fishing is close. Anglers are never out of sight of land and much of the fishing, for even the largest species, is extremely close. Being almost 100 miles up into the Sea of Cortez, waters are generally calm and, in some cases, flatter than many inshore lakes. There are some cruisers available, but the majority of anglers opt to use the experienced panga and super panga fleets because of the proximity of the fishing. In fact, even the fishing is fairly uncomplicated and is done primarily with dead or live bait with very little trolling so don’t bring a lot of gear.
As with San Jose del Cabo to the south, it will be interesting to see the affect of construction of the new Costa Baja Marina north of the city and new construction currently taking place at Muertos Bay (recently renamed Bahia de Los Suenos).
Whatever the choice, it makes for good variety; different species of fish; different styles of fishing; and a great location to return to after a fun day of fishing.
SIDE BAR
You don’t need a whole garage full of stuff to fish the Baja, but gear your equipment towards the time of year you will be traveling and the type of species and fishing you will be doing. Talk and get details from your fleet operator or booking agent. Talk to other anglers. Just remember, you don’t need EVERYTHING, but what you don’t bring you may not be able to purchase in Baja. Rental gear ranges from the very good to basically serviceable and pedestrian gear that takes a beating day-in-and-day-out. Personally, whenever I can I bring my own gear unless I know the rental gear very well. There’s an old rule: “Don’t go to war with someone else’s rifle.” If you have ever been on a trophy fish for a long long time, you’ll know what I’m talking about. That being said, here’s a very basic list for a first-timer that can be expanded to your needs.
Outfits
Short rods with a lot of backbone preferred over long rods. A thirty and forty pound outfit for live and dead bait are a good start
A 50-60 pound trolling outfit with roller guides that can also double as a “meat stick” for bigger or deeper fish using bait is a good 3rd stick.
Terminal Tackle
Assortment of live bait hooks to match sardines, caballitos, mackerel or other dead or live bait
Leader material plus several large hooks already rigged on heavy leader
Swivels (dark preferred over silver)
Lead (don’t go crazy. Unless you specifically know you’re going to be working deep waters. If not, a few torpedo and rubbercore sinkers is enough)
Iron – 2 heavy and 2 medium for yo-you and jigging. Make sure one of each has some chrome. Other colors would be blue/white; scrambled egg; dorado; all white
Feathers – one dark and one light small feather and one dark and one light larger jig (if you’re hunting billfish). Make sure the leader is appropriate to the fish
DON’T LEAVE HOME
Rod belt
Hat
Sunscreen
Dikes and Pliers
Camera
Zip lock bags (for fish as well as temporary splash guard for gear like cameras)
Windbreaker or Sweatshirt (just-in-case)
Small bills for tips
That's My Story 
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