That's My Story

Y’know, as beautiful as Baja is, it’s still a land of busted dreams and half-baked ideas and projects gone south in more-ways-than-one a lot of the time. It’s a harsh and unforgiving land and so many well-intentioned ideas just never make it, either because of financing, culture, labor, politics or sometimes just plain dumb mala suerte (bad luck).

Drive down just about any highway in Baja you often see ornate gateways to land developments that never got past that expensive portal and now only weeds grow in the arid wind. Empty storefronts masked in road dust; abandoned buildings and casas along the paseo ; and rusted beach debris are all testament to an idea that just never made it.

A case-in-point has been Mexico’s attention to ecological issues and that whole can ‘o stinky worms worthy of a doctorate thesis I don’t have the time and space to write about. Let’s just say that arguably, Mexico’s record on the ecology has been less than stellar and sometimes, I can see why. When you’re busy trying to keep your population fed and working, sometimes all you can do is pay lip-service to taking care of the earth. It’s a bit like being too busy with work and kids to worry if that stack of laundry in the bathroom will ever visit the washing machine.
But, every now and then, it works.

Almost a decade ago, I lived and worked at the little Hotel Bahia Los Frailes on the southern part of Baja’s East Cape. As the working fishing guy and divemaster, I was either on or under the water daily in an area known as Cabo Pulmo. It’s just a smidgen of a place, with a sleepy cow-filled pueblo. At least it was back then. However, it’s got a rep as being the only living coral reef in the entire Eastern Pacific rim and what a great place it was to have that as my playground everyday.

However, like most things in the Baja, I could see deterioration. Coral was getting busted up by commercial anchors. Fishing line was strewn about coral heads. Fish were abundant, but sometimes absent and definitely skittish. Trash could sometimes be found at water’s edge or where irresponsible campers had left their mark. Although it was officially designated a “marine park” since about 1995, it was not uncommon to find commercial and sportfishing boats working and poaching the area. Divers with spear guns regularly found plentiful targets. I could see it was just a matter of time.

Well, recently I had the opportunity to re-visit the area and spend a day on the water diving with my amigo, Mark Rayor who owns Vista Sea Sports in Los Barriles the area’s only diving concession. (http://www.vistaseasport.com/) What an incredible difference 10 years of true “enforcement” has made. Although water conditions were not optimal, it was probably one of my best dives in years.

Huge schools of pargo swam by with absolutely no fear. Grouper in the 50 -100 pound class size would swim up within arm’s length. Multitudes of jack crevalle, angel fish, grunts, sergeant majors, trumpet fish and barracuda swam together impervious to my presence. I saw trophy-sized 20 pound cabrilla for Pete’s sake and not just one or two…I saw entire schools move languidly by. It was truly like being “in the aquarium.” In two dives, I probably saw more fish than I would see in an entire month of diving 10 years ago.

Mark and his wife, Jennifer (whom you may remember from Mike Fowlkes’ Inside Sportfishing video series) have been working the area since 1993.

“The park is about nine miles long. The northern boundary is Rancho Miramar just south of Rincon bay and the southern boundry is near the Los Frailes Hotel. It goes from the beach to almost 4 miles off shore,” explained as we sat on one of his pangas.”

“There is no doubt that the park is working. It is obvious by the amount of sea life we see every day compared to sights outside the park. Also because the fish do not spook. Huge grouper and snapper are not afraid and swim right up to divers with curiosity. (I) Have noticed more and more sea life. For the first several years we never sighted sharks and now they are common. I have photos of grouper that are 300-400 pounds. Yes, there are still poachers and a small minority of fishermen who do not respect the park. For the most part the community is behind it,” he went on.

That could be the secret. It’s not enforcement officers cruising to bust people. It’s the locals covering their own backyard and perhaps realizing they have a vested interest in preserving their home waters.

Mark added more. “There is no real enforcement. Just a bunch of us dive shops being vigilant and intimidating poachers to stay out. We have cameras in all of our dive boats and will take pictures of encroachers. Nobody likes their picture taken breaking the law. It works. As I said, most of the community is behind it. All of the resort owners have instructed their fishing captains to stay out.”

According to Mark, once locals started taking care of things, the changes were rapid and very evident as fish just seemed to sense that there was a sanctuary within the park. “I used to dive and see old fishing line and gear strewn all across the bottom. I’d take a pair of scissors with me and cut bits as much as I could. Others did the same and now you rarely see litter on the bottom.”

I’ve been a divemaster for many years and seen a lot of great things over that period, but coming back after almost 10 years was eye-opening. I also sensed an usual reaction to what I had seen. Generally, when I visit aquariums or even go diving to the north in my waters around La Paz, seeing fish just sets off the “hunter juices” in me. I want to hook up!

However, this time, seeing so many creatures this close and in such abundance, my reaction changed. I want this to stay this way. I want it to get better. I want YOU and your kids and someday MY kids to see what I had seen and I hope that at least in this little corner, the fish can always find a place where they are safe. I want this one Baja project to work.

That’s my story…
Jonathan